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Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair

f2u8503f2u8503 Posts: 2
At approx. 55 mph and faster I have a light whistling sound similiar to a tea kettle just before it goes into a full boil. I've replaced the wipers and the passenger compartment dust/pollen filter. The excessive wind noise seems to have diminished, but the whistling persists except when it is raining or the day after a car wash. Any ideas?
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Comments

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Does it have a sunroof?
  • rotaranrotaran Posts: 10
    Check the seal of the windshield.

    Mike
  • rotaranrotaran Posts: 10
    Hi all,
    i need the camber-, caster- and the toe-in angles of a 1992 PA. Can someone help me?

    Mike
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    TSB #73-71-04A
    SUBJECT: NOISE/VIBRATION/GROWL FROM FRONT OF VEHICLE ON RIGHT TURNS OR HARD ACCELERATION (REPLACE/REPOSITION REAR TRANSAXLE MOUNT)

    MODELS: 1995-98 BUICK RIVIERA, 1997-98 BUICK PARK AVENUE, 1995-98 OLDSMOBILE AURORA

    CONDITION:
    Some owners may comment on a noise, vibration or growl from front of vehicle during right turns or hard acceleration

    CAUSE:
    The rear transaxle mount may be grounded out due to a bound or twisted condition within the mount

    CORRECTION:
    FOR 1995-96 VEHICLES
    This condition may be corrected by replacing the rear transaxle mount with a revised mount, P/N 22174976 Aurora, P/N 22174975 Riviera. See procedure below
    FOR 1997-98 VEHICLES
    The 1997-98 vehicles have been built with improved mounts but may still exhibit the condition if the mount is bound or twisted. This condition may be corrected by following the procedure listed below to correct the bound or twisted condition within the mount.

    1995-96 G CAR

    1. Raise the vehicle
    2. Support the transaxle with a screwjack
    3. Remove the rear transaxle mount studs
    4. Using the screwjack, lower the transaxle
    5. Remove the mount from the lower frame rail
    6. Install the new transaxle mount to the lower frame rail
    7. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack until the transaxle bracket contacts the mount. Check the mount alignment and reposition the mount as necessary to center the mount studs within the mount itself.

    IMPORTANT:
    The mount studs will not always be centered in the mount bracket. This is a normal condition. The mount bracket is slotted to allow for cross car build variation and should not be used to determine if the mount is positioned correctly

    8. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack to fully load the mount

    IMPORTANT:
    Loading the mount is important because the mount studs could potentially twist in the bracket while tightening the mount nuts, creating a twist or binding condition within the mount

    9. Tighten the mount nuts to 45 N.M.(33 LB.FT.)
    10. Remove the screwjack and verify mount alignment

    1997-98 C/G CARS

    1. Raise the vehicle
    2. Support the transaxle with a screwjack
    3. Loosen the rear transaxle mount nuts. Do NOT fully remove the nuts
    4. Using the screwjack, unload the mount by lowering the transaxle
    5. Adjust or reposition the mount to eliminate any bind or twist
    6. Using the screwjack, raise the transaxle until the transaxle bracket contacts the mount. Check mount alignment and reposition the mount as necessary to center the mount studs within the mount itself.

    IMPORTANT:
    The mount studs will not always be centered in the mount bracket. This is a normal condition. The mount bracket is slotted to allow for cross car build variation and should not be used to determine if the mount is positioned correctly

    7. Raise the transaxle with the screwjack to fully load the mount

    IMPORTANT:
    Loading the mount is important because the mount could potentially twist in the bracket while tightening the mount nuts, creating a twisted or binding condition within the mount

    8. Tighten the mount nuts to 45 N.M. (33 LB.FT.)
    9. Remove the screwjack and verify mount alignment

    P.S. The rear transaxle mount is the one on the left or driver's side of the vehicle (rear of transaxle), NOT the one toward the rear of the vehicle.
  • kcwolfpack59kcwolfpack59 Posts: 122
    This could be the same problem as experienced with the 2K Lesabre. Its the windshield molding coming loose in the heat and making a noise as the wind blows across it. There is a fix which the dealers know about. For more info. see the Lesabre posts.
  • mschoep1mschoep1 Posts: 4
    The exterior temperature is off by about 20 - 30 degrees. Hotter than actual.

    Is there a sensor that should be replaced? or is there some bug buildup over the sensor causing this inaccurate report?

    Look for your help, anyone!
    Thanks
  • mike0757mike0757 Posts: 1
    My serpentine belt shredded half off at a light and my car stalled. I put a new belt on which was pretty easy, but now the car doesn't start. What would the belt whipping around do to cause this. I've replaced the fuel pump, coil pack and cam sensor so far. Help!
  • I have a Buick Park Avenue 92 and today I just had the problem like the car was running out of gas but there is a full tank. What could be all the possibilities that could cause the problem. I have never experienced this problem with this car. I did notice that when it reached over 200 degrees it started to studder. After cooling for about 10 minutes it is fine for another 25 miles. I need massive help....... :cry: :confuse:
  • I tried to start my 2000 Buick PA and the steering wheel locked and the key will not turn. I have jiggled, and turned back and forth, while trying to make the key turn to no avail. What is the deal??? Any suggestions on how to fix this??
  • Have 2001 Park Avenue. Replaced battery 2 weeks ago. Last ran car 4 days ago. Now it will not start. Battery is okay because everything else works, except car will not start. Steering wheel not locked. What could be wrong?
  • I just bought a 95 buick park avenue, and when i test drove the car it didn't do this but now it does, during light accleration to 60 mph, it sounds like i went over a grate as the tranny shifts , i almost have to put the pedal to the floor to accelerate as a reasonable rate after 50 when it most often makes that vibration/just went over a grate noise. does anyone know what is causing this and what i can do to remedy the problem? any suggestions are welcome. thank you.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    I think that's been mentioned in certain T60E transmissions as a known problem and I can't recall the cause. It's called the washboard effect. If I find it elsewhere, I'll post back here.

    This message has been approved.

  • ok imidazol97, i would appreciate it so much :)
  • I have had a continuing problem of the PassII alarm system draining my battery. Recently it the service engine light started coming on and the car would start to stutter going up inclines. We can make it do the same thing on flat surface but more noticable on inclines. The car is barely drivable now because of this problem. It does not seem to be the transmission, could a sensor be causing this? :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    How do you believe the PassKey II system is draining your battery?

    Is the service ngine light steady or flashing? Steady means there's a problem with a code stored in memory and flashing means a serious problem that needs to be seen and fixed.

    If your car is as serious as you sound, it needs to be diagnosed with a code scan and then fixed. It could be transmission. Stuttering sounds like wires and plugs need replaced with quality replacements--not pop culture stuff from the box stores. Get AC Delco plugs and AC Delco wires or Belden from NAPA. Get Original Equipment quality on the wires. If they haven't been replaced in 60K miles, they're due. If could be ignition coils. It could be the ESC that controls the ignition coils (I believe it's right under them).

    It could even be your battery and connections at the battery not supplying adequate voltage. There are many connections to remove, clean, and check. When was the battery last replaced? Does the voltage drop into the orange zone during cranking on the voltage gauge inside the car? It should stay up in the clear area meaning the battery is supplying enough power under load.

    You didn't mention number of miles or kilometers and any history on the car. Are there any other symptoms? Losing water out of the reserve tank? Overheating?

    It could

    This message has been approved.

  • Last night my Check Engine light came on when I started my '96 PA and stayed on. Car drives fine, oil level is good. Did rain hard on the car the night before (doesn't rain much where I am) but that shouldn't have caused it.

    I drive this car about 2-3 times per week sometimes less. How important is it that I get this checked out? I'd prefer to just drive it and ignore it until I noticed it underperforming...etc. Plse advise.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    If the light is not flashing it is not an immediate emergency. It may be from gas cap seal after putting in fuel.

    Did you recently put in gas? The car checks for the seal on the pollution system that captures the evaporating gasoline hydrocarbon vapors when the motor is lukewarm and restarted. Also the gas tank needs to be between 3/4 and 1/4 full IIRC.

    You can check the rubber seal around the cap and the area where it contacts the metal filler tube. Sometimes the metal filler tube collects a brown scudacrud. I cleaned mine with petroleum jelly. That helps soften the rubber seal on the cap. Replace and drive car til temp gauge starts up from bottom. Stop car for few minutes. Then restart; that may trigger a recheck for fuel vapor leaks. Mine turned off two times when I did that. A first time I took it to the dealer--they didn't tell me not flashing wasn't emergency--and there was a broken hose where it attached to the charcoal filter under the air intake area in engine compartment. They may just have resealed the filler cap.

    This message has been approved.

  • saguesague Posts: 1
    hello everyone, my 94 buick park avenue has a problem with the ride level air hight adjustment.

    The "leveling" lamp dash indicater lights,
    I can hear the air compressor start under the hood. the compressor runs for about 2 seconds before blowing a fuse. Please advise thank you
  • Greetings,
    I think I am abought to buy a 95 Park Ave for a "work vehicle" and would
    like some advice on what might be wrong with the AC. Also would like a guess on
    the potential costs to repair the problem if any of you folks are familiar with
    this car.

    The AC blows cold air just fine, but the clutch on the compressor is constantly
    cycling(disengaging/engaging). The fellow already had it charged with freon and
    it seemed like it solved the problem at first but the compressor started cycling
    again about every two seconds.

    Its not a deal breaker(I love this car), but I would like an idea of what the problem
    and the cost to repair might be.

    Thanks for any help.
    Bert
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