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Comments
My lights have a little pitting from road debris, but nothing like you describe. Did you maybe get some sort of chemical solvent on them, perhaps during detailing?
Does anyone know if it's possible to get that bolt and repair this myself to save money? Or is it too difficult for a home repair?
Thanks in advance!
As for which is better, it depends on what you're seeking. If you're going to hot-rod it, the 5.0 is the better choice...they're easier to work on, the aftermarket is the largest in the automotive world, and you can easily get big power gains. Also, the '94-95 5.0 and '96 4.6 were rated at the same HP, but the 5.0 has more torque down low, so it feels faster than the 4.6 (whose TQ is more spread out throughout the rpms).
However, in 1999, the 4.6 power ratings shot up to 260 HP/302 TQ. So right out of the box, it was more powerful than a stock 5.0. However, the 4.6 is a lot harder to work on, go-fast parts aren't as ubiquitous, and you'll spend more to make it faster. So if you're looking for good power w/o tinkering with it, the 4.6 is the choice.
The new S197 Mustang is somewhat affecting the prices of the SN95 models, but not too much over regular depreciation. V8 Mustangs (esp. the 5.0s these days) are always sought after. The key is to make sure you're buying one that's not been run into the ground by the previous owner.
BTW, this car has a K&N air filter input system. Was that stock? Also has a "281 High Output Engine" decal on the hood.
Few weeks ago I put two mods on the car. First a high flow muffler, which did not create any problems. Later on, I installed a K&N air filter and that was when problems started.
I need to tell that both mods had actually a positive effect on performance, more power and better torque especially at low RPMs. However, shortly after installing the K&N filter, I noticed that when accelerating in lower gears, the engine starts missing/skipping past 2500 or 3000 RPM. It feels like the fuel was momentarily cut off. No problems when cruising or in 5th gear.
I did search the net and as recommended, I cleaned the MAF sensor. It seemed to help a bit but this skipping is still clearly there. I wonder if by letting the engine breathe more freely the fuel management system is somehow confused about fuel delivery.
Any help/comments would be appreciated.
Lumir
For the rear seats, there should be two tabs, one in the center of each seating area, where the carpeting meets the seats. You may have to lift up the seat a little. You then have to insert a screwdriver into the front to release the seat bottoms. That should do it I believe.
The K&N system is aftermarket. Only the late Mustang Cobra "R" edition came from the factory with a K&N filter.
A greasy MAF is the most common culprit. Definitely was for me.
wondering if it was a special model ordered by the dealer?
It was a used car when my relative bought it. I found a paper in the car with the other owner's name from California.
The above post has got me thinking, too. If I remove the very dirty K&N filter, is it okay to run the car without a filter for a few days until I get a new one. (I know you can clean them but this one looks too far gone.)
If you like them, by all means keep them (the 281 lettering is a nod to the old days), but they're not part of a factory special edition. The only special edition in 2000 was a special, limited "spring feature" edition that had two wide hood stripes on either side of the scoop with "GT" cutouts.
Don't drive w/o the filter...running a car w/o one is very very risky and could result in major engine damage. Only takes 30 minutes - 1 hour or so to clean a K&N (local autoparts store should have the kit if you don't already)...as dirty as it may look, it's amazing what the cleaner solvent can do.
I want to buy an entry level Mustang in the pre-2005 body style and have two cars I'm considering. They are identical white/tan V6 Auto's and are both at $7k. Here are the differences:
2000 with 66k miles. Nicer interior and exterior. I like the black body decals and the wheels better. No keyless enty fob. Available from a Ford dealer who's reputation is very marginal.
2001 with 42k miles. Interior looks more worn. Has more body dings. Has tan body decals which I don't like as well. Wheels are OK but not as attractive to me. Power steering pump whines. Front bumper and hood were damaged at some point and replaced but the hood is from a Cobra and looks odd with the fake scoop. Available from a private owner who seems like a nice guy.
I know nothing about Mustangs and would really value your input. Both cars appear to be generally sound.
Thanks.
I will gradually check all these things (already bought the fuel filter). Unfortunately I am right now busy with some home improvement projects, so I am not sure when I get to it. BTW, my Mustang is just a toy car, a substitute for a motorcycle (my wife wouldn’t ride with me any more) and I will be parking it for winter soon
Lumir
There are no real differences mechanically between the 2 years. From 1999 to 2004 the Mustang was more or less unchanged at the core. There were some cosmetic changes, but that's it...
The difference in mileage is negligible from a long-term point of view...the key will be how well they were maintained (so be sure to get records/have 'em looked over).
Other: sounds like the 2001 has a GT hood, if it has a pronounced hood scoop. You can get a replacement key fob for the 2000 pretty easily.
And I agree on the striping...I never liked the tan rocker panel stripes myself. Black is classic Mustang.
Also, the 00 has a dealer I can yell at for stuff. I'd never go back to a private seller with problems.
I actually put those rocker panel stripes on my '02...white for me, as my car is dark blue.
What do the wheels look like on the '00? Are they kinda a shiny, machined chrome, in a star pattern with exposed lugs?
Anyway, the dealer came down another grand so I bought the 00 on Saturday. The exterior is in very good condition and appears to have been garage kept at least for some of its life. The interior looks showroom - even better than I would have done - I'm really surprised at how clean it is.
Just a side note... I looked at a '99 convert. on Friday for $3 grand more. Only 24k miles and beautiful pictures on the internet. But...YIKES!! It started as a Hawaii car and moved to Maryland after two years... probably military. Well, it appears the low mileage was due to it being stored for a long time AFTER it was nicely covered with Pacific Ocean salt... corrosion everywhere you looked and at least one complete repaint. Some body panels had at least two repaints.
So, now I own a Mustang. There you go.
Congratulations, and enjoy your car...Mustangs are loud, crude, antiquated and unsophisticated...and probably the most fun car you'll ever own.
This is fun!
Hey... I've got a question about the clouded headlights that all of these cars have. Is the fix...
a) Replacement
b) Expensive polish job by a pro
c) Buy some goo and polish it myself, or
e) Leave them alone??
I'm sure its been discussed on this board before, but I'm new here.
I've heard of people wet-sanding their clouded stockers with a really fine grit paper (like 2000), and then polishing them...apparently works pretty well.
If yours aren't too bad, you might get good results with just some plastic polish and some elbow grease. Just be glad you don't have a 94-98 model...the headlights on them are known to get quite yellowed with age.
Never heard of it. It must be close to emory cloth. I suspect its a body shop item.
It beats the "total" option. :surprise:
My "GTR" has 275/40/R17 tires, a K&N air filter, "281 High Output Engine" graphics on the hood, "GTR" badging and the galloping ponies graphics on the sides. Could this have been the midyear package they are referring to? (The car also has a "Ford Racing" sticker on the radiator shroud.) There are no stripes on the hood but the car is red with grey fabric.
This special edition was for the GT only and, with the exception of the 17" wheels (standard at the time was 16"), was entirely cosmetic. There were no performance upgrades. The hood and side scoops were the ones used on the 1999 35th Anniversary edition. I think Ford made around 3000 Spring Feature GTs.
For reference, the only Mustang that came from the factory with a K&N filter (and a lot of other aftermarket perf. goodies) was the 2000 Cobra R, the last of the SN95 factory racers. Ford only uses the "R" designation on purpose-built racing models.
What you have is a individually-customized Mustang...a Mustang thing since the 1960s.
What do the galloping pony decals on the sides look like? Is is one horse, or a series of horses in a row, possibly fading out? Where are they positioned?
As mentioned, I am new to Mustangs and to this board, but have already noticed that you think about these cars more than the average guy. Perhaps you can advise me on what you call "performance goodies".
While discussing ways to eek a few more ponies out of my Pony, a Vette guy in my office said the easiest and cheapest for the boost would be a K&N air filter and hot wires and plugs.
What are your thoughts on these two items? With 66k on the factory wires/plugs, I am going to replace them anyway, but is "hotter" available that actually improves anything? In your opinion, does a K&N help or is it all marketing? Any other performance thoughts?
An easy mod you can do right now though is to remove the airfilter silencer. It's that rubber cone on the filter housing that goes into the fenderwell. Some claim that removing it is worth a few HP...however, it is equally claimed that doing so will lose you a few TQ. So it's really a toss-up. It snaps on and off, so easy to experiment to see what you like best.
Plugs and wires are definitely a good bet. If you don't mind changing the plugs occasionally, go for copper plugs to replace the stock platinums...they'll give you better performance, but you'll have to change 'em more often.
My price cap is currently set at $10,000, so most of my current ranges are 2000-2003 V6s with around 50-70k miles on them, or 1998-2001 v8 GTs with about 60-90k miles. Of course, being a young man in the Army with alot to show off, I'm all about the V8, but how much more practical is the V6, if at all? Newer year is always good, and with lesser miles, but is the V8 worth a few more years and a few more miles?
Also, automatic versus manual. My personal preference has always been manual, but I've not driven a true "muscle car" that's built to be that way. The Mustang is its own breed in that sense, I think, and when test-driving a 2003 V6 recently, the clutch pedal and shifter were abit.. vibrating. All of the CAR sticks I've had recently were smooth with little-none, so I'm not sure if it's just the car with normal transmission/engine vibration going into them, or it's something actually wrong.
Thanks in advance!
If you do get a V8, I'd suggest going for a 1999+...the 1998 engine is rated at 225 HP, whereas the 1999+ is 260. Unless, that is, you really like the '98 body style (which a lot of people do...as the years go by, I like it more and more).
Mustang manual transmissions indeed aren't sportcar-quality...they're more akin to what one would find in a pickup truck (To some of us, this is part of the car's retro charm...) But yeah, clutches are very stiff, shifters are notchy and vibration is the norm.
A few other things to consider (if you haven't already):
Insurance - You've said you're male and young...if you're single as well, you will generally find the insurance on the V8 model higher. Sometimes a little, sometimes a lot. Be sure to factor that in your calculations.
Condition - Check any used GT *very* carefully...because Mustangs are inexpensive performance vehicles, they tend to be really beaten on by their owners. GTs tend to be the victim of this more often than the V6s, but as there are more V6s on the road, statistically it might even out. :confuse: In any event, a 60-90k GT can still be fine, just check it and the maintenance records extra-carefully. A good sign with Mustangs is a good interior...if an owner has kept up the interior, it's more than likely he's kept up the mechanical end of things. A trashed interior, however, does not bode well...
Good luck and hope you get one you like. They're great cars, and I've rarely met someone who regrets buying one, be it V6 or V8.
Should this guy be optimistic that a reasonable fix may be on the horizon, or should he begin searching U-Pull_it yards for a replacement. The dealership generously offered to do that for him and sell him the replacement tranny (delivered, even!), with a 1-year warranty for $750. He paid $800 for the car.
Thanks in advance for tips.
About the V6 or V8 I believe the biggest problem with them both is the transmission(manual). The T-45's or T-5's do not hold up well, esp. if you powershift kiss it goodbye. Also if the previous owner put mods on it or if the tires are bald I would avoid it since the trans has probably been beaten up. A manual V6 may be better, lower insurance, gas and likely less wear. If it has a TKO trans thats good, they are alot stronger.
What I cannot find out is the fuel pressure regulator. I was expecting a vacuum controlled regulator on the feed line, I do see something resembling a regulator, but no vacuum connection to it.
I checked the Haynes manual and it says “on models 1999 and later, disconnect the electric connector to pressure regulator”, but it doesn’t say/show where.
Is it the pressure sensor on the driver’s side injectors’ rails feeding the signal to pressure regulator somewhere?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Lumir :confuse:
I am Trying to find a movie. All I can remember of the movie is the end of the movie when the car hits a train side on ( you think he has got away with it ),I think the car was a Dodge Charger , IT has been many years since i have seen the movie. But like to add to the car chase dvd I have got . Another scene i can remember is the car getting chase or something like that, in a orange grove. It was a great movie like Vanishing point , gone in 60 sec , Duel and many more.
Any ideas?