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Thanks. ccdbb
I have a 2006 G35 coupe and I have had engine/oil problems since around 12,000 miles.
I have had it into the dealer multiple times, and they actually dropped a new engine into it at 24,000 miles!
I heard through the grapevine that this has been a common problem in G35s, Altimas, and Z350s, but I have not been able to locate information online...
Does anyone know anything about this? I traded in a Honda Accord which never had any issues for this luxury car and it's falling apart... any input would be great, because I really love the car, but not the problems...
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188688
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=225927
This sounds like a known problem in some 03-06 Gs with the VQ. My advice is push the dealer for as much extended warranty as you can and good luck!
Any suggestions?
sharkman
2008 G35XS nav, prem, sport
kc
sharkman
My rear brake pads were replaced at 39500 miles. I thought that was pretty good
for this type of a vehicle: Sports Sedan.
Now it has 47k miles and I took it in to Infiniti dealer for other things and have
them do a Front Brake service, including new pads. To my surprise, they told
me it still has 7mm left on them, so it's still good for awhile!
Is this normal? I don't drive like a teenager,but I don't drive like a grandma either!
I know 2004 G35 had lots of issues with brakes, but I never expected my front
brakes to last this long. I am happy to save money, but I don't want to wait too
long if they need to be replaced.
I think 05 & 06 sedans use same brakes except for sports package models.
I'd like to know what others experienced with same model G35's.
Most of the milage is a short highway commute to work (50 mi round trip).
Thanks a bunch
Can anyone advise me as to how to get a quality paint job for my 06 g35x?
A contractor is performing some capital improvement work on the buildings in the development I live in. Cement and some type of hypoxy has splattered all over my car. It looks as though a paint job is needed.
I intend to hold the contractor responsible for the cost to do this. However, I am concerned that they will try to force me to get the car buffed, rather than re-painted.
In any event - I would love to get some quality advise from the community out here, as to what my best course of action is.
thank you.
did you try cement remover? They sell it at building supplies. It may be your answer to the expensive (time-wise especially) and never guarranteed repaint job.
In any case, even if you settle for buffing, you may have to have the clear coat fixed after the procedure. Depends on how heavy the procedure gets. But it just may save your base paint which should be your primary objective.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9ZmVT3ryiY
I haven't watched it all yet, so I can't comment. Sometimes the Internet is amazing!
The cost to remove the cement (using a thin blade) and claying the paint is roughly 200. I'm still apprehensive about the blade procedure. I would prefer something that lifts or removes the cement, rather than what's been proposed.
If anyone out there knows of a high quality body shop in NYC, please let me know.
thanks for the info.
- the fan....
Now this would be better. Unfortunately it appears to be for a Nissan. Only requires removing the glove compartment door:
http://youtube.com/watch?v=VhgGEeNrGM8&feature=related
G35S1
I am looking for a quality body shop for my japanese baby. They specialize in german cars. I believe they may be biased against japanese cars, but I'm more interested in quality body work.
I don't trust any of the infiniti dealers I've dealt with thus far (englewood, manhattan and pepe doesn't do body work).
thanks!
Probably my biggest complaint with this car is the key FOB design. I can't count anymore the number of times I have accidentally set-off the Alarm or found my windows open due to accidentally leaning against something like the kitchen counter. I keep my keys in my pants pocket and the counter height just matches my physique evidentally. Being the FOB does not have recessed buttons, they are very exposed to accidental activation.
Please note that I mention this window-open feature being activated accidentally, as you have encountered. But it is an actual feature when you wish to use on demand.
Regards,
OW
AND my front windows roll down, when I press the unlock button on my key fob.
does anyone have any experience with this?
It is doing it again and I can't find an AT fuse
Help?
crank easily. I added some distilled water,which seemed to help alittle,but still
wasn't 100% as it should be.
I've decided to replace the battery just to be safe and Not want to be stranded
somewhere during hot summer day in So Cal. First I called Infiniti dealer for a
cost on a replacement battery. He was very nice to tell me that battery still might
be under factory warranty. It is prorated, so I paid 75% and Infiniti paid 25%. My
portion was $ 74.25 plus tax, with installation.
I think for a factory battery and I didn't have to spend my time replacing it, it was
a satisfactory experience.
If your car is still under warranty and you need a battery replacement, don't forget
it will be covered-prorated.
In the stores, somehow the parts books all have the wrong size filter listed (11"x6.625"). The correct dimensions of the filter are actually 7.125 x 6.625. And there are two of them of course (dual intake).
I've been to and called a bunch of stores including AutoZone, Advanced Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Tires Plus and even looked online. Everyone who worked in these stores was stumped when I asked them for help. Many tried to cross reference the OEM part # but had little luck. The only filter they or I could come up with is a lifetime washable K&N High-Flow for around $50 each.
I called the parts department at the Infiniti dealership and they want $32 each. I just want to find a basic disposable Fram/Purelator/Some-other-brand air filer that costs the typical $8-$12 dollars.
Any help is appreciated.
A body restoration shop has pinpointed the issue to spot welds on either side of the car where rear quarter panels meet side panel of body. They found a bulge in the body panel where one piece of steel is sandwiched (by spot welds and caulk) onto the other. The bulge has cracked the caulk on the inside of the seam. They state that until they get in there with a sand blaster they cannot be certain of the condition. Yet they would bet there already are small holes caused by corrosion in the area of the suspect spot welds.
Now waiting to hear back from District Warranty Rep.
Nick
Which battery should I buy and what tool do I use to get the cover off the top of the battery?
Mike