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Infiniti G35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • gplayergplayer Member Posts: 4
    I just checked the other day, for an 2005 coupe, that was the price I was quoted, $200.

    I tell people, I take my car to the dealer for everything since if something else gets screwed up, they will fix it at no charge. Also I find that the dealer does more than what you bring the vehicle in for. My car always feels brand new when I take my car to the dealer, even if it's only for an oil change.

    You can buy parts elsewhere, and the dealers now recognize that if they at least put the parts on, they won't miss out on all the money if they put the parts on, even though they aren't Nissan / Infiniti parts.
  • gplayergplayer Member Posts: 4
    On my 2005 this happened to me last year. It was a cable breakage. I had it fixed for like $100 - $150, cannot quite recall. I was disappointed with the repair since they placed electrical tape around the splice job they did in the trunk. They should've replaced the entire housing of the cord, not just the cord.
  • gplayergplayer Member Posts: 4
    Sorry to hear about your experience with your G. I have read people having break issues, I haven't. I recently purchased some after market slotted rotors and ceramic pads for less than the factory issue, which I suggest. I did have infiniti put them on. I've no issues with the radio controls, cruse, noise from moonrook,water leak, nor ticking from dash, so no suggestions.

    I purchased my vehicle new five years ago, with no major problems. So your issues could come from the fact of the history of care of the vehicle from prior ownership, and where the car was previously owned (cold weather area v. warm area).

    I have noticed that my radio when extreme heat exists, either from the heater or from the weather in slow moving traffic, the radio cuts off. This is a known issue because the radio is encased with the heating unit, and extreme heat will cause this scenario. My vehicle currently has 83k mi.

    I think you may have been better purchasing an '05 or later model, since several changes were made from the '04 model year. I believe the first year the coupe was available was '03-.'04.

    I've driven Nissan's for nearly 20 years and enjoy them, so good luck
  • gplayergplayer Member Posts: 4
    I use Fields Infiniti in Glencoe for service, which is out by you, which I highly recommend. I have used the Infiniti dealer in Orland Park, and the old dealership downtown. You may try the new dealership downtown, but I enjoy the ice cream, breakfast and drinks, and small theatre in Glencoe. And no, I don't work there or have any financial interest in the location. The prices you quote are what I paid / or will pay for my '05 coupe. The transmission fluid is synthetic.

    I'm a shopper, so I walked to the Firestone in Orland Park, while my vehicle was at that Infiniti dealership, just to price compare. To get the fluids changed: transmission,coolant, and brake there was about a $60 differential from the dealer.

    As someone else has stated on this site, using the dealer or a trusted mech is a personal preference. As I've previously stated, I find that my car feels much better than when I originally bring it into the dealer, even for a mere oil change. I find they adjust the brakes, adjust the belts or something. It feels totally different than when I bring it in.

    After five years of ownership, outside the oil changes and brakes / rotors which I just recently changed, I've spent around $1,000. With those things included around $2,800 or an average of $560/yr in maintenance. All performed at the dealership. (brakes rotors/pads $1k a few months ago,a few years ago $600...so outta $2800, $1600 for brakes.)

    As you need to replace parts I suggest to go after-market, such as K/N air filter, brakes get slotted rotors and ceramic pads which cost about what the dealer charges for factory parts. Get after market radio, and speakers if new are needed. Things like belts or headlamps only come from Nissan, even if you use another mech to do the work.

    Good luck....
  • drjustindrjustin Member Posts: 50
    Good morning forum members, thanks for stopping to help me out.

    I bought my 2007 G35 Sport in Jan '09. It had 42,000 and was an infiniti pre-certified car through Sewell Infiniti in Dallas. Thus far I haven't had any real problems and have taken it to my local(Tulsa) infiniti dealer for all oil changes etc.

    So today, i took the car in as it's due another oil change. the car has 59,000 miles on it. the service manager asked if i wanted to do the 60,000 mile service. i asked what it consisted of, and how much it cost? he said $540. I was like WHAT? $540 for what? to change some fluids, filters and replace my wiper blades??? so for the first time, i'm not feeling the warm fuzzies for my dealership. before i go on, here is the recommended list of items to service:

    -replace engine oil and filter (no objection there)
    -rotate tires(i drive a sport, you don't rotate sport tires)
    -replace engine air filter(no objection there)
    -replace automatic trans fluid(no objection there)
    -replace engine coolant(no objection there)
    -replace manual trans oil(it's an automatic)
    -replace wiper blades(no objection there)
    -front differential fluids??
    -rear differential fluids??
    -lubricate all locks hinges(well okay, maybe??)
    -balance tires(well...okay, maybe??)
    -service battery(what the hell? what service does it need?)
    -install washer solvent(needed, but should only be like $10 max)
    -road test vehicle(this should be part of the manufacturer original warranty in my opinion)
    -replace in cabin filter(no objection there)
    -transfer case fluids(isn't this specific to AWD only??)

    ok, so that's the list. my question is: how many of these items are absolutes, and should it really cost $540? i agree most of the fluids should be changed, but more for like $240, not $540.

    comments/suggestions welcomed. thanks again for your time.
  • drjustindrjustin Member Posts: 50
    no love huh?
  • raizelgsraizelgs Member Posts: 84
    I would see what the service manual says to do , not the service manager. The dealerships always recommend more than the manual and charge lots of $$ for the extra stuff.
  • yogiowneryogiowner Member Posts: 117
    I have an 06 sedan.

    I don't know if anyone else experienced this, but I want to put it out there. The emblem on the steering wheel is made of some cheap, aluminum type of material. It cracks, and chips away. HOWEVER, when it chips away, it leaves SHARP EDGES.

    It chipped while I was driving it, and the sharp edges cut both of my hands. I've contacted the manufacturer, for a complimentary repair. It seems to me, that this is a design flaw. There shouldn't be ANYTHING on the steering wheel that is subject to break or fall apart, where the driver can be injured in anyway, WHILE DRIVING!

    I would like to hear from the masses, as to how they would handle this issue. I am quite pissed off. The interior quality of this particular model is crap!
  • infinitig39infinitig39 Member Posts: 1
    edited July 2010
    I have found my 2007 G35x to be the most maintenance intensive and expensive car I owned compared to Saab 93, Volvo C70, Subaru Legacy & Tribeca, BMW 330 and Lexus RX. It's a joy to drive but is definitely not worth the maitenance cost. Here are some #s I've been presented with over the past 2-years.

    The rear brake rotors and pads have been a nightmare with rotor and pad replacement required at 18,000-miles ($220 parts only, dealer covered the labor), then replaced again at 22,000-miles due to defective rotors (no charge). Pad replacement at 28,000 miles with rotors resurfaced. Pads & Rotors Machined ($305)

    Drive belt ($235) showing signs of wear at 28,000 miles.

    Engine and Transmission Fluid Flush at 28,000 miles ($110 and $205)

    All 4 tires need replacement at 28,000 miles (OEM for $1056)

    Oil Changes ($110)

    Aftersale Nav System Map Upgrades : (Rev 1 $+500, Rev 2 $+90) (Didn't go for either option)

    :sick:
  • jimlacoursejimlacourse Member Posts: 14
    I used to failful with my dealer with all of my maintenance, but when my warranty expired I got my own mechanic. He installed oversize aftermarket rotors and pads that last longer and stop faster. Replaced all the drive belts, hoses, flushed engine,transmission and brakes and oil changes are one third the cost of what they cost that what the dealer used to charge me. I was lucky enough to find a mechanic that used to work for a Nissan dealer.
  • gardenstategardenstate Member Posts: 1
    My 2006 G 35 X w/ 70,000 m is in the shop for a "Sevice engine soon" light issue that turned out to warrant a throttle chamber replacement. My brakes have been changed twice within 20K and I cant escape a feeling that the dealership is pulling a fast one on me. But what do I know about cars right!
    How does a Throttle chamber get messed up within 70K?
    Could one get this changed by a regular mechanic (Central NJ) for less in lieu of shelling out $700 to the dealership?
    Has anyone ever dealt with loud ABS groans when reversing or turning the wheel? My dealership states its my ABS but says they dont need ot do anything about it since it doesnt affect the performance of the car..Ugh..
  • cardocardo Member Posts: 3
    I just got back from having my father-in-law (a mechanic for Honda) change my oil for the first time, I'm at 24,000 miles.
    Guess what I discovered on how well Infinti does with there maintenence. I discovered they were using a Fram oil filter, and all the pop ribits from the undercarage of the car (4) were missing, gone, not just 1 all freakin 4.
    I went for Fresno Infiniti to let them know, hey, ur guys are using Fram oil filters and they don't put back on the popribits. Of course they argued, told me its impossible and said the ribits are just plastic, they can break. All 4 at the same time. Urg!!! After 24,000 miles, and then they looked up my history showing that I have taken it to them every 3,000 miles.
    Not anymore, those rude lying SOB's can kiss my FOOT!! They lied when I bought the car (about having a loaner just for oil changes and any maintenance) and lie about oil changes plus scrached my wheels on a tire rotation.
    I may be a girl, but I know more about cars then alot of men. I appreciate cars more then most men too. What a disgrace.
  • annex35annex35 Member Posts: 8
    edited August 2010
    granted it's been over two years since you posted this message, but i am wondering if you know what was replaced to get your supplemental airbag light to stop flashing?? i haven't had this issue until today. i have a 2003 g35 sedan. i went to start my car yesterday and my battery was dead. i had it jumped and it has worked fine so far. i took it to walmart to have them test my battery, said that was fine, and when i drove off my airbag light came on blinking and won't go off. first experience with this, any suggestions?? thanks!
  • prov910prov910 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Coupe with 88K miles. My mechanic recently said I needed a fuel injector cleaner service (to the tune of $140). I don't see this on my Infiniti maintenance schedule. Can anyone opine on this?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    PASS
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    I've been suckered into this one before. Think of it this way - would you call a plumber to clear out a clog that wasn't there? And if you didn't, would you even bother putting Drano in it? Probably not - it's a cleaner, not prevention. I've had decent luck with the stuff you can buy at auto stores for a few bucks, when I've had minor symptoms. Unless you're having issues, I wouldn't do it.

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  • riahnnariahnna Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2005 g35x sedan. Just replaced my brake pads (without resurfacing rotors, didn't know I had to) 2 months ago. I couldn't recall if it happened before or after I got my pads replaced, but when I brake, the car shakes. Took it to Pep Boy and they say one side of the front rotor is thinner than the other, and it's under the manufacture limit to be resurfaced. So they told me to replace both rotors and pads. I'm confused because when I asked if I could just have the rotors replaced and leave the pads alone, they said no. The guy said if I don't change the pads, it'll cause problems again. Was he bluffing me? Or do I really need the pads to be replaced too? Also how much should it cost to replace both of them?
    thanks
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    edited September 2010
    Was the car shaking when braking when you had the pads replaced two months ago?

    I''ve done "pad replacement only" when the car was not shaking at the time of replacement without a problem. The best approach for me has been to replace the pads before they are toast, and before the rotors get scored or warped (or both), avoiding the rotor resurfacing.

    In any event, I think you need new rotors..... and now new pads again. You have to start out with smooth braking just after any pad replacement/rotor resurfacing or you are chasing your tail. The rotors have to be totally true and unscored to get away with just replacing the pads.

    Re price......the dealer will be the high priced approach. I use a private mechanic to do my work on the G.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    You could try re-bedding the pads. Here is how to do this.

    On a open stretch of highway, get up to ~60 mph or more, then brake hard, just short of the ABS kicking in. Get the vehicles down to 10 or 20 mph, then repeat the process. Each time, try to do this either from a higher speed or else get on the brakes harder each time. After doing this 3-5 times, drive normally and give the brakes a chance to cool off.

    See, in most cases, the rotors really aren't warped, but rather there has been a transfer of material from the pads to the surface of the rotor creating an microscopic high spot. This is what causes the pulsing in the brake pedal. But doing what I described, the high spot (which is invisible to the eye) is soothed over and a new layer of pad material is left uniformly (hopefully) deposited on the surface of the rotor. It takes high temperatures to do this, hence the need for the hard braking.
  • agm1agm1 Member Posts: 11
    Hello,
    I just received a notice from Infiniti that 2003-2004 G-35's have an airbag (seat) connector problem and the dealer will fix this at no charge. I f it has been fixed Infiniti will repay you for your trouble. And here we are 2 years + after your post. You must have been one of the first to have this problem. So, look in the mail guys for your recall.
    Have a good day.
  • darrinzramzdarrinzramz Member Posts: 24
    Good day,has any-one else had this problem w/their G35 sedan/coupe,I was at a stop sign,stooped and then all of the sudden,the check-engine light came on,and also the trac light and the car would only drive forward at a very low speed!!!???,2-3mph!!!.What sensor has gone bad???,and I am going to TRY to drive it down to my dealer tomorrow the dealer is about 45min away!!,will I be ok!!!????,thanks Darrin I need any imputs from other drivers ASAP!!! :(
  • stevey10stevey10 Member Posts: 4
  • stevey10stevey10 Member Posts: 4
    I bought a 08 G35x this past August. My car slipped once and almost got hit on a highway about 2 weeks ago and had to steer hard to the left and right to keep the control.

    After that it now feels like the steering wheel has been loosened. The little tightness you feel from driving an infiniti or BMW is no longer there in the steering. It felt as if somebody had loosened the steering wheel. It's really frustrating.

    I was wondering if anyone had any ideas what this could be or how it can be fixed. I took it to the dealer and they said everything felt fine (alignment, etc). There is no problem.

    Any assistance you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
  • dmack_g35sdmack_g35s Member Posts: 1
    20 Gallons US is 16.65 gallons Imperial (or UK as it is sometimes indicated)

    If the USA would use metric like the rest of the World, there wouldn't be this confusion!
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    dmack.......hope scott wasn't waiting 42 months for this response..... :)
  • tbell5tbell5 Member Posts: 4
    edited February 2011
    did you fix the problem(Front wheel/suspension rattle ), if so what did you do, please help me
  • tbell5tbell5 Member Posts: 4
    did you find out what the problem is. i have a 2004 g35x same problem started yesterday. pleas help me
  • nick154nick154 Member Posts: 3
    Yes its fixed. It was the control rod bushing. After changing the struts and other suspension parts without any change to the rattle, my mechanic, using a pry bar, was able to get a lot of movement on the control rod at the bushing. We replaced it and solved the problem. Should work for you.
  • nick154nick154 Member Posts: 3
    sorry i said the control rod bushing. it is actually the compression rod bushing.
  • tbell5tbell5 Member Posts: 4
    thanks, But i tryed to locate the part on Infiniti Parts USA so i can buy it. Is there another name to search for this part " is the bushing part of the bracket that holds the stabliize bar inplace
  • tbell5tbell5 Member Posts: 4
    i have a g35x 2004, is there another name for the the compression rod ( try to stop the rattling nosie *Front wheel/suspension *) i've tryed to several internet search but no luck. is the compression rod also none as the stabilize bar
  • g35_driver1g35_driver1 Member Posts: 1
    hi,
    i think I'm having a similar issue, did it sound like a dull thumping noise, it occurs around 50 to 60 mph then goes away at higher speeds?

    I took it to my mechanic over the weekend and he couldn't find any suspension/axle damage, though he was able to bring himself to change the rotors and brake pads.
    thanks
    Ray
  • yogiowneryogiowner Member Posts: 117
    Hi Guys:

    I've decided to start a new post for other victims of Infiniti. Anyone who knows how to get the dealers to be responsive, thorough and accurate should post suggestions here. Any and all options to hold them accountable (I am not soliciting for a legal group and such here).

    After I asked Douglas Infiniti to be thorough and accurate, they came back telling me that they can't find transmission fluid in the coolant. I have a picture of it. So that means that as polite as they are, they can be equally incompetant, or just plain unwilling to make the needed repairs unless they can charge hundreds of percent more than that of a private, quality mechanic.

    Each time I see an Infiniti commercial, I want to throw my shoe through the TV.....
  • to_infinitito_infiniti Member Posts: 2
    Hi!

    I had check engine warning light to come up and mechanic determined that injectors need to be cleaned which fixed the problem. However he preferred to do it every 10k miles or eve more often, while I think I can do it every 25k miles or when the light comes back again. Supposedly higher amount of alcohol inf modern fuel causes injectors to clog more easily. In my opinion it should not be done too often as the process by itself is quite smoky and damaging to the environment.
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    edited October 2011
    First, I am no mechanic and am not mechanically inclined when it comes to automobiles.

    May I ask a few questions? What brand of fuel do you use? What does the fuel injection maintenance cost? At what mileage did the CEL come on? Are you the original owner? And how well do you know this mechanic and his experience level?

    You were very smart to get the cause of the "check engine light" (CEL) checked out. If the engine threw a code, your mechanic was probably able to retrieve it with a code scanner and diagnose your issue properly. Too many ignore the CEL until disaster stares them in the face, followed by a big repair bill.

    Granted, your CEL came on and the mechanic's injector service seems to have rectified the problem. And clogged fuel injectors are not uncommon.

    BUT.........in my last 4 vehicles combined, I put on 409,000 miles so far and had only 1 (one) fuel injection service performed. The name brand fuels with the additives have seemed to do the job for me. My 04 G35 Coupe is currently at 46,000 miles, has never had this service, and it runs as strong and as smooth as the day I drove it off the Infinity lot when new. The same can be said for the other 3 vehicles. All 4 have performed at or above the EPA fuel mileage ratings.

    So I must ask. What is the benefit of the injector service on a car that is running beautifully? I subscribe to the addage that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Granted, I follow the prescribed maintenance schedules for the drivetrains on my cars, though I tend to change motor oil sooner than recommended.

    If you trust your private mechanic as I do mine (for 18 years), ask him the question......why every 10,000 miles? Infinity does not recommend that frequency of injector service, but I don't have my owners' manual handy to see what the injector cleaning schedule is. My mechanic makes no such fuel injection service recommendation. So I don't do them.

    With regard name brand gasoline versus the off brand fuels, they ALL get their gas from the exact same refineries. So it is the exact same gas. The only difference is in the specific additives required by the brand company, and the octane rating (87, 89, 91, 93).

    With regard to the mechanic's comment on the alcohol content in the fuel, I think he/you meant the ethanol content.

    In Masachusetts where I live, the Winter formulated gas has a mandated ethanol content of 10% per gallon by volume. No one I have asked has been able to confirm that the Summer formulated gasoline has a lower or different ethanol content. And the sticker on the pumps at the gas stations only say: "May contain up to 10% ethanol by volume." The sticker never changes 24/7/365. Ethanol produces less combustible energy than straight gasoline, so the Winter formulated gasolines yield a lower fuel economy, by as much as 10%.

    So I might be inclined to use name brand gasolines because of the cleansing additives and skip the fuel injector cleanings, and certainly not every 10,000 miles as your mechanic recommended. I'd have 39 more fuel injection services, and the associated cost, under my belt for no apparent benefit by following your mechanic's recommendation. No thanks. :D
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    edited October 2011
    I did some reading, and you may want to do the same. Google "fuel injection service" and you will find some informative articles and advertisements. The repair shops push this service, claiming fuel mileage savings and a smoother running engine. The conventional automotive wisdom does not support this service for routine maintenance, only if there is a problem and the cause has been determined to be clogged fuel injectors, and generally from the use of cheap gas that does not necessarily contain detergents.

    Other tidbits from my reading......over the counter gasoline additives you pour into your gas tank are not generally considered effective. Pressure-forced, concentrated solvent flushes are the norm if required at about $125 a pop. The detergents found in name brand gasolines keep injectors clean from gasoline varnish buildup on the injectors, the most frequent cause of injector fouling or restriction. Also, the OEMs list the service as recommended but not required.

    Using your mechanic's recommended fuel injection service every 10,000 miles would have put me $5,000 in the hole had I ever entertained doing it, with no apparent benefit over the 400K + miles I put on my last 4 vehicles. That is a lot of beer money. ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would only recommend fuel injector cleaning if the car exhibits systems of injector distress. The only other time injectors might need attention is when they wear out, which they do eventually (they are mechanical in a sense, so....). Sometimes they even rust, although I haven't seen that for a long time time.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    They (fuel injectors) do seem to be rather robust nowadays. The only one I have had to touch just happened last month when my '92 Sentra SE-R started running on 3 cylinders. Thought it was a fouled plug at first, but turned out the coil in the #4 injector had developed an intermittent open. Replacing the injector fixed the miss.
  • pjt6970pjt6970 Member Posts: 38
    I have an 05 g35x w/ 54,600 miles on it. It has been leaking oil of late and I took it in where I had it serviced last thinking a loose seal. They said my oil housing is leaking and that I'll need a new one of those along w/an oil cooler since the dealer said (where they'll get the parts) they are all tied together. This true? Is $555 all-in a fair price? Are there other options I have?
  • infinitisvcinfinitisvc Member Posts: 12
    The oil cooler is where the oil filter attaches to the engine block. It is very common for the o-ring to leak, but replacement of the entire cooler is usually not needed; just the o-ring. Should not cost more than $150.

    I am a service advisor at an Infiniti dealer and come across this issue on a daily basis.
  • g35_loverg35_lover Member Posts: 2
    Actually i found that buying a Haynes manual and i little DIY is pretty easy for the 2003 g35 and I was quoted from a Midas almost 600.00 to do a tune up and change the belts. I did it myself with no car knowledge and only spent 130.00 Make sure to get platinum or iridium plugs as the manufactures call for a double platinum iridium plug thats 20.00 a piece they are the best and you will tell a difference also make sure that they are a high temp plug also. If this helped let me know if there is anything else that i may be able to help you with just let me know
  • g35_loverg35_lover Member Posts: 2
    I'm looking for parts to my 2003 g35 as i have been in love with this car forever and finally got one but the body is really bad and has some bondo on her i have found numerous parts but need to know if they will fit thanks any help at all
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,145
    Looks like it will.

    If you go to www.car-part.com and put in your year, make, and model, then the part you're looking for, then search all of the US, you will get results for all of the available parts of that type that fit your vehicle.

    For example, if you put in the 2003 G35 Sedan instead of the coupe, and search for "hood," you get only a parts list including 2003-2004 model years. This indicates that a 2005 would NOT likely fit the 2003.

    If you change it to coupe, you get results for parts from 2003-2007 model years, indicating that any of those should fit the 2003.

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  • kja21kja21 Member Posts: 4
    Infiniti has Premium, Elite1, and Elite2 Maintenance Plans. Premium “exceeds” what the factory requires and covers additional recommendations. Premium follows the owner's manual under "optional upgrades". Elite1 follows service schedule 1 in the owners manual (oil every 3mo or 3750 miles) and Elite 2 follows service schedule 2 (oil every 6mo or 7500 miles), both Elite 1&2 “meet” the factory requirements and cover the intermediate and major service every 15k and 30k miles. So my question is do you think the Premium (costs more of course) is worth it?

    Also, are any of these plans worth it at all? How much are you paying without them? :confuse:
  • watash50watash50 Member Posts: 1
    Your oil leak is the gasket above the oil filter. Remove the filter and you'll find a hex looking nut under where the filter screws onto the cooler. Loosen the nut and pull housing down. The "O" ring is right there. Replacement ring can be purchased thru your local Nissan dealer for about $8.00. Real inexpensive repair and easy to do.
  • allangman18allangman18 Member Posts: 1
    I found that my trunk was leaking at the rubber seal. The seal was damaged by the emergency trunk release which fell on to the seal depressing it enough to allow water to seep into the trunk when the car was washed. So beware of this problem. New seal and snipped off the offending portion of the release.
  • nice5nice5 Member Posts: 2
    2003 Infinity G35 sedan engine will stop running while being driven. Twice when driving 70 mph and once at 30 mph 6 months ago. Now engine is stopping when coming to a stop and hard to start. Engine will only start if gas pedal is pumped a few times. The Service Engine Light, VDC Off & Slip all come on. VDC Off & Slip will turn off after a while. The dealer said my car VIN number is not on the ITB03-072 recall list and recommend I do not change out the crank position or cam position sensors. No codes coming up when using an OBD2 OEM Enhanced code reader. Any suggestions?
  • nice5nice5 Member Posts: 2
  • ellarykellaryk Member Posts: 7
    edited July 2012
    Last winter I replaced the motor on the driver's window and it worked fine.
    Now, when I close it it rolls all the way up then rolls down about 3 inches. Does the same if I hold the switch until it is fully rolled up. To close it I have to hold the switch in the up position until it is closed for 10 seconds or so. The automatic window adjusting function (when the door is opened and closed) and anti-pinch functions works properly.
    Does the limit switch on the motor just need to be reset?
    Thanks.
  • srs_49srs_49 Member Posts: 1,394
    Does the limit switch on the motor just need to be reset?

    That's what I would try. Here's an short article on how to do that on a Nissan. Your Infiniti should be similar.

    Artcile Here
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