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I tell people, I take my car to the dealer for everything since if something else gets screwed up, they will fix it at no charge. Also I find that the dealer does more than what you bring the vehicle in for. My car always feels brand new when I take my car to the dealer, even if it's only for an oil change.
You can buy parts elsewhere, and the dealers now recognize that if they at least put the parts on, they won't miss out on all the money if they put the parts on, even though they aren't Nissan / Infiniti parts.
I purchased my vehicle new five years ago, with no major problems. So your issues could come from the fact of the history of care of the vehicle from prior ownership, and where the car was previously owned (cold weather area v. warm area).
I have noticed that my radio when extreme heat exists, either from the heater or from the weather in slow moving traffic, the radio cuts off. This is a known issue because the radio is encased with the heating unit, and extreme heat will cause this scenario. My vehicle currently has 83k mi.
I think you may have been better purchasing an '05 or later model, since several changes were made from the '04 model year. I believe the first year the coupe was available was '03-.'04.
I've driven Nissan's for nearly 20 years and enjoy them, so good luck
I'm a shopper, so I walked to the Firestone in Orland Park, while my vehicle was at that Infiniti dealership, just to price compare. To get the fluids changed: transmission,coolant, and brake there was about a $60 differential from the dealer.
As someone else has stated on this site, using the dealer or a trusted mech is a personal preference. As I've previously stated, I find that my car feels much better than when I originally bring it into the dealer, even for a mere oil change. I find they adjust the brakes, adjust the belts or something. It feels totally different than when I bring it in.
After five years of ownership, outside the oil changes and brakes / rotors which I just recently changed, I've spent around $1,000. With those things included around $2,800 or an average of $560/yr in maintenance. All performed at the dealership. (brakes rotors/pads $1k a few months ago,a few years ago $600...so outta $2800, $1600 for brakes.)
As you need to replace parts I suggest to go after-market, such as K/N air filter, brakes get slotted rotors and ceramic pads which cost about what the dealer charges for factory parts. Get after market radio, and speakers if new are needed. Things like belts or headlamps only come from Nissan, even if you use another mech to do the work.
Good luck....
I bought my 2007 G35 Sport in Jan '09. It had 42,000 and was an infiniti pre-certified car through Sewell Infiniti in Dallas. Thus far I haven't had any real problems and have taken it to my local(Tulsa) infiniti dealer for all oil changes etc.
So today, i took the car in as it's due another oil change. the car has 59,000 miles on it. the service manager asked if i wanted to do the 60,000 mile service. i asked what it consisted of, and how much it cost? he said $540. I was like WHAT? $540 for what? to change some fluids, filters and replace my wiper blades??? so for the first time, i'm not feeling the warm fuzzies for my dealership. before i go on, here is the recommended list of items to service:
-replace engine oil and filter (no objection there)
-rotate tires(i drive a sport, you don't rotate sport tires)
-replace engine air filter(no objection there)
-replace automatic trans fluid(no objection there)
-replace engine coolant(no objection there)
-replace manual trans oil(it's an automatic)
-replace wiper blades(no objection there)
-front differential fluids??
-rear differential fluids??
-lubricate all locks hinges(well okay, maybe??)
-balance tires(well...okay, maybe??)
-service battery(what the hell? what service does it need?)
-install washer solvent(needed, but should only be like $10 max)
-road test vehicle(this should be part of the manufacturer original warranty in my opinion)
-replace in cabin filter(no objection there)
-transfer case fluids(isn't this specific to AWD only??)
ok, so that's the list. my question is: how many of these items are absolutes, and should it really cost $540? i agree most of the fluids should be changed, but more for like $240, not $540.
comments/suggestions welcomed. thanks again for your time.
I don't know if anyone else experienced this, but I want to put it out there. The emblem on the steering wheel is made of some cheap, aluminum type of material. It cracks, and chips away. HOWEVER, when it chips away, it leaves SHARP EDGES.
It chipped while I was driving it, and the sharp edges cut both of my hands. I've contacted the manufacturer, for a complimentary repair. It seems to me, that this is a design flaw. There shouldn't be ANYTHING on the steering wheel that is subject to break or fall apart, where the driver can be injured in anyway, WHILE DRIVING!
I would like to hear from the masses, as to how they would handle this issue. I am quite pissed off. The interior quality of this particular model is crap!
The rear brake rotors and pads have been a nightmare with rotor and pad replacement required at 18,000-miles ($220 parts only, dealer covered the labor), then replaced again at 22,000-miles due to defective rotors (no charge). Pad replacement at 28,000 miles with rotors resurfaced. Pads & Rotors Machined ($305)
Drive belt ($235) showing signs of wear at 28,000 miles.
Engine and Transmission Fluid Flush at 28,000 miles ($110 and $205)
All 4 tires need replacement at 28,000 miles (OEM for $1056)
Oil Changes ($110)
Aftersale Nav System Map Upgrades : (Rev 1 $+500, Rev 2 $+90) (Didn't go for either option)
:sick:
How does a Throttle chamber get messed up within 70K?
Could one get this changed by a regular mechanic (Central NJ) for less in lieu of shelling out $700 to the dealership?
Has anyone ever dealt with loud ABS groans when reversing or turning the wheel? My dealership states its my ABS but says they dont need ot do anything about it since it doesnt affect the performance of the car..Ugh..
Guess what I discovered on how well Infinti does with there maintenence. I discovered they were using a Fram oil filter, and all the pop ribits from the undercarage of the car (4) were missing, gone, not just 1 all freakin 4.
I went for Fresno Infiniti to let them know, hey, ur guys are using Fram oil filters and they don't put back on the popribits. Of course they argued, told me its impossible and said the ribits are just plastic, they can break. All 4 at the same time. Urg!!! After 24,000 miles, and then they looked up my history showing that I have taken it to them every 3,000 miles.
Not anymore, those rude lying SOB's can kiss my FOOT!! They lied when I bought the car (about having a loaner just for oil changes and any maintenance) and lie about oil changes plus scrached my wheels on a tire rotation.
I may be a girl, but I know more about cars then alot of men. I appreciate cars more then most men too. What a disgrace.
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thanks
I''ve done "pad replacement only" when the car was not shaking at the time of replacement without a problem. The best approach for me has been to replace the pads before they are toast, and before the rotors get scored or warped (or both), avoiding the rotor resurfacing.
In any event, I think you need new rotors..... and now new pads again. You have to start out with smooth braking just after any pad replacement/rotor resurfacing or you are chasing your tail. The rotors have to be totally true and unscored to get away with just replacing the pads.
Re price......the dealer will be the high priced approach. I use a private mechanic to do my work on the G.
On a open stretch of highway, get up to ~60 mph or more, then brake hard, just short of the ABS kicking in. Get the vehicles down to 10 or 20 mph, then repeat the process. Each time, try to do this either from a higher speed or else get on the brakes harder each time. After doing this 3-5 times, drive normally and give the brakes a chance to cool off.
See, in most cases, the rotors really aren't warped, but rather there has been a transfer of material from the pads to the surface of the rotor creating an microscopic high spot. This is what causes the pulsing in the brake pedal. But doing what I described, the high spot (which is invisible to the eye) is soothed over and a new layer of pad material is left uniformly (hopefully) deposited on the surface of the rotor. It takes high temperatures to do this, hence the need for the hard braking.
I just received a notice from Infiniti that 2003-2004 G-35's have an airbag (seat) connector problem and the dealer will fix this at no charge. I f it has been fixed Infiniti will repay you for your trouble. And here we are 2 years + after your post. You must have been one of the first to have this problem. So, look in the mail guys for your recall.
Have a good day.
After that it now feels like the steering wheel has been loosened. The little tightness you feel from driving an infiniti or BMW is no longer there in the steering. It felt as if somebody had loosened the steering wheel. It's really frustrating.
I was wondering if anyone had any ideas what this could be or how it can be fixed. I took it to the dealer and they said everything felt fine (alignment, etc). There is no problem.
Any assistance you may be able to provide would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
If the USA would use metric like the rest of the World, there wouldn't be this confusion!
i think I'm having a similar issue, did it sound like a dull thumping noise, it occurs around 50 to 60 mph then goes away at higher speeds?
I took it to my mechanic over the weekend and he couldn't find any suspension/axle damage, though he was able to bring himself to change the rotors and brake pads.
thanks
Ray
I've decided to start a new post for other victims of Infiniti. Anyone who knows how to get the dealers to be responsive, thorough and accurate should post suggestions here. Any and all options to hold them accountable (I am not soliciting for a legal group and such here).
After I asked Douglas Infiniti to be thorough and accurate, they came back telling me that they can't find transmission fluid in the coolant. I have a picture of it. So that means that as polite as they are, they can be equally incompetant, or just plain unwilling to make the needed repairs unless they can charge hundreds of percent more than that of a private, quality mechanic.
Each time I see an Infiniti commercial, I want to throw my shoe through the TV.....
I had check engine warning light to come up and mechanic determined that injectors need to be cleaned which fixed the problem. However he preferred to do it every 10k miles or eve more often, while I think I can do it every 25k miles or when the light comes back again. Supposedly higher amount of alcohol inf modern fuel causes injectors to clog more easily. In my opinion it should not be done too often as the process by itself is quite smoky and damaging to the environment.
May I ask a few questions? What brand of fuel do you use? What does the fuel injection maintenance cost? At what mileage did the CEL come on? Are you the original owner? And how well do you know this mechanic and his experience level?
You were very smart to get the cause of the "check engine light" (CEL) checked out. If the engine threw a code, your mechanic was probably able to retrieve it with a code scanner and diagnose your issue properly. Too many ignore the CEL until disaster stares them in the face, followed by a big repair bill.
Granted, your CEL came on and the mechanic's injector service seems to have rectified the problem. And clogged fuel injectors are not uncommon.
BUT.........in my last 4 vehicles combined, I put on 409,000 miles so far and had only 1 (one) fuel injection service performed. The name brand fuels with the additives have seemed to do the job for me. My 04 G35 Coupe is currently at 46,000 miles, has never had this service, and it runs as strong and as smooth as the day I drove it off the Infinity lot when new. The same can be said for the other 3 vehicles. All 4 have performed at or above the EPA fuel mileage ratings.
So I must ask. What is the benefit of the injector service on a car that is running beautifully? I subscribe to the addage that if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Granted, I follow the prescribed maintenance schedules for the drivetrains on my cars, though I tend to change motor oil sooner than recommended.
If you trust your private mechanic as I do mine (for 18 years), ask him the question......why every 10,000 miles? Infinity does not recommend that frequency of injector service, but I don't have my owners' manual handy to see what the injector cleaning schedule is. My mechanic makes no such fuel injection service recommendation. So I don't do them.
With regard name brand gasoline versus the off brand fuels, they ALL get their gas from the exact same refineries. So it is the exact same gas. The only difference is in the specific additives required by the brand company, and the octane rating (87, 89, 91, 93).
With regard to the mechanic's comment on the alcohol content in the fuel, I think he/you meant the ethanol content.
In Masachusetts where I live, the Winter formulated gas has a mandated ethanol content of 10% per gallon by volume. No one I have asked has been able to confirm that the Summer formulated gasoline has a lower or different ethanol content. And the sticker on the pumps at the gas stations only say: "May contain up to 10% ethanol by volume." The sticker never changes 24/7/365. Ethanol produces less combustible energy than straight gasoline, so the Winter formulated gasolines yield a lower fuel economy, by as much as 10%.
So I might be inclined to use name brand gasolines because of the cleansing additives and skip the fuel injector cleanings, and certainly not every 10,000 miles as your mechanic recommended. I'd have 39 more fuel injection services, and the associated cost, under my belt for no apparent benefit by following your mechanic's recommendation. No thanks.
Other tidbits from my reading......over the counter gasoline additives you pour into your gas tank are not generally considered effective. Pressure-forced, concentrated solvent flushes are the norm if required at about $125 a pop. The detergents found in name brand gasolines keep injectors clean from gasoline varnish buildup on the injectors, the most frequent cause of injector fouling or restriction. Also, the OEMs list the service as recommended but not required.
Using your mechanic's recommended fuel injection service every 10,000 miles would have put me $5,000 in the hole had I ever entertained doing it, with no apparent benefit over the 400K + miles I put on my last 4 vehicles. That is a lot of beer money.
I am a service advisor at an Infiniti dealer and come across this issue on a daily basis.
If you go to www.car-part.com and put in your year, make, and model, then the part you're looking for, then search all of the US, you will get results for all of the available parts of that type that fit your vehicle.
For example, if you put in the 2003 G35 Sedan instead of the coupe, and search for "hood," you get only a parts list including 2003-2004 model years. This indicates that a 2005 would NOT likely fit the 2003.
If you change it to coupe, you get results for parts from 2003-2007 model years, indicating that any of those should fit the 2003.
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Also, are any of these plans worth it at all? How much are you paying without them? :confuse:
Now, when I close it it rolls all the way up then rolls down about 3 inches. Does the same if I hold the switch until it is fully rolled up. To close it I have to hold the switch in the up position until it is closed for 10 seconds or so. The automatic window adjusting function (when the door is opened and closed) and anti-pinch functions works properly.
Does the limit switch on the motor just need to be reset?
Thanks.
That's what I would try. Here's an short article on how to do that on a Nissan. Your Infiniti should be similar.
Artcile Here