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It was pricey but bought it thinking it's a lux suv that would be safe for everyone including our son.
And I had a tsx before and I really enjoyed the car.
So I put my faith in Acura.
2 weeks later while i was driving the car out of my drive way with my baby in the back, the car just COMPLETELY shuts down while I was on D.
Luckily there weren't any cars on that street.
I had to put it to P and restarted.
The car started right away and I was able to drive away.
Couple days later check engine light comes on.
we brought it to the dealer and they replaced the sensor.
I thought that would solve the problem.
We took it back and the SAME problem occurs with the SAME code.
It's been 2 months and we had to bring it back 5 times!!
It has the same code is on everytime apparently...
THIS IS NOT NORMAL!!!
It has stalled in a parking lot while I was circling around to find parking.
It has stalled on a busy street with tons of traffic!
I am actually scared to go on highways now!!!
I can't believe we paid that much to end up with a car with HUGE problems.
The sales person almost said it's unbelievable that MDX is having this problem.
I have to bring in the car again today because it stalled yesterday.
I CANNOT believe this.
What should i do now???
Frankly I want my money back.
I would NEVER buy an acura again.
Have you called Acura Care to see if they might have a suggestion? Maybe the scope of the problem is beyond what this particular service department can trouble shoot.
One thought I have is does the stalling seem to happen only at lower speeds?
Acura is a great care - don't give up on them just because of one troublesome vehicle.
The manger is looking at it himself and is trying hard.
But it's a terrible feeling to have with your new car.
I totally regret buying this.
This was really expensive for us.
And yes, this only happens at lower speeds.. do you know why?
In times past, I've had breakdowns, and one accelerator sticking, when my young children were in the car and it is frightening. (Thank goodness I don't have to srive junkers anymore, lol). It's hard to have a vehicle that you can't trust. Hopefully, they will find the problem and you won't have any further trouble.
If it does keep happening, perhaps the car will fall into the "lemon law" category and you will be able to return it and get your money back.
http://www.ultrashieldorlando.com/mdx/filter.htm . Has anyone tried this and if so is this something I should only entrust the dealer to do? I am quite good at DYI jobs, but I would not want to start something that could mess up up the glovebox.
Anyone know on what my options are in this situation?
Best of luck in your Audi.
Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars may help too.
But I wonder if the body shop gets the bumper for one price and then charges the customer a little more i'm sure even for this seemingly mostly honest shop. Unless they have some in to cheap parts and actually pass that along to the customer I'm sure I could get it cheaper myself.
acurapartswarehouse.com seems to be cheaper then bernardi.acuraparts or curry.acuraparts
anyone know of or order replacement parts (and/or accessories but actual parts are harder to find as many sites shops have the acccessories) from other shops/sites?
for rear bumper there seems to be a bunch of different parts but you can get the main whole bumper which I'm assuming I need but hope I dont order more then I actually need. Here is a list of all the bumper parts front and back
http://www.acurapartswarehouse.com/online/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?catalogID- =26&productID=8&yearID=24&doorID=4&gradeID=120&areaID=1&transmissionID=2&originI- D=-1&colorLabelIDs=-1&colorLabelID=-1§ionID=7&idAndImageID=4929%20227488&isB- igPicture=False
so I'm guessing I need #2 on the list
04715-STX-A91ZZ FACE, RR. BUMPER (DOT) CAN 1 $431.82 $318.68
which is the whole rear bumper. I just hope that isn't more then I need. I guess I should wait and see what the body shop says and exactly what part I need which they be reluctant to tell me if they make part of their money on the part which be kind of dishonest though.
hopefully they can tell me exactly what I need and exactly what they would charge me for the bumper part before labor so I can compare to what I can get the part for myself.
1- Oil Change and tire rotation ($34.95 + $28)
2- Transmission and rear differential flush and fill. ($115)
I am skipping the inspection part as i can do it on my own, and also holding off on break fluid flush and fill for a couple of months (Almost 3 years old).
Called up Honda dealer ship and the price is almost the same.
Is that around what other folks are paying, should i try to go to some other generic shop ?
Thanks
Seems like Acura dealers will accept coupon as long as it is from another Acura dealer.
Personally, I don't see this as worth the trouble. If the body shop marks up the part 10%, that's maybe $40 bucks.
Just got a call from the dealership, the MDX only has around 38k miles.
1- The hood needs repair as i was not imagining and there is excessive ply.
2- One of the axle is leaking and needs replacement (still under warranty)
3- Whistling sound from the window at highway speed (i complained about it and it's getting fixed under warranty)
4- Dealer said that the tires that the vehicle comes with (Michelin) are not the best, as i had noticed steering vibration that felt like balancing issue. Looks like will need new tires soon as tread has already worn out.
Any suggestions on what tires to get ?
I had bought extended warranty though dont' this stuff like axle will be covered.
Over all not very pleased with the MDX.
The rotors they used on the 2007 are no longer being installed.
Brakes and rotors that were an inadequate design for this vehicle unfortunately. I replaced allthe way around between 40-50k miles at a cost of $1000.
BTW, the brakes on our '07 are light years ahead of the '04's
Clicking sound when steering either direction.... OH BOY I'm having this problem and is becoming ANNOYing! I've been to the service center complaining bout' the noise for at least 10 times. They have changed front CV joints and even replaced both rear structs(which I'm glad they did cuz if they don't they cost at least $1500 for one) and still the clicking noise is there. It is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually to either direction. Noise can be most noticeable during parking reversing into a spot. I just took my car back to the dealer and now they claim noise is coming from the front left struct. They are in progress ordering the part and should be in sometime this week. I'll let you all know if that kills the clicking sound.
P.S.: Sometimes I wonder if I should have just trade the car to a German Dealer and get myself a X6.
What you seem to be describing is common to a 4WD system that uses a locked center differential which is inadvertently left engaged on a tractive surface. So that clicking sound CAN be the result of the SH-AWD system keeping the rear drive too tightly engaged during tight and/or low speed turns.
A R/awd system, base REAR drive vehicle, would NEVER have the front drive engaged while turning turning tightly, high lateral loads on the front wheels, But a F/awd system such as the SH-AWD system absolutely MUST keep the rear drive engaged while turning. Otherwise the combined stress on the front wheels' traction coefficient due to having to support drive torque, FULL drive torque, along with HIGH lateral forces might very well result in loss of traction altogether.
Pull the fuse(s) for the SH-AWD system while the ignition is off and see if the clicking sound remains.
The early MDX's with the VTM-4 F/awd system had premature transaxle failures for this very reason, both front and rear drive torque applied simultaneously simply resulted in to much stress, driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, and that resulted in failure of the weakest link, the transaxles.
What would pulling fuse(s) off for SH-AWD do?
I'm like thinking could there be something lose around the axles when turning something is in the way or rubbing against it causing the stupid clicking sound?
Lower the stress on the drive train, the ENTIRE drive train. When your SH-AWD system pre-emptively engages the rear drive on a tractive surface that often results in a rather serious level of driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, most especailly so in a low speed turn, tight turn or accelerating turn even moreso.
IMMHO what is most needed for the SH-AWD system, or ANY pre-emptive F/awd system, is the ability of the driver to enable (not "engage") it ONLY in known or suspected low traction conditions. It could also be made reactive, activating ONLY with actual wheelspin/slip and the following 2-3 minutes, in order to cover instances of which the driver might not be aware in advance.
We're not, I hope, talking about the clicking sound at/within the stearing wheel resulting from the turn signal cancel mechanism.?
"Replaced the left front strut.."
Low speed acceleration, and/or acceleration into a turn, will ALWAYS result in the SH-AWD system engaging, PRE-EMPTIVELY engaging, the rear drive. That, in turn, should the tire contact surface be reasonably tractive, will end up putting a LOT of undue stress on the ENTIRE drive train.
So your clicking noise could be coming from any point in that STRESSED drive train.
Your SH-AWD system is, at base, a simple FWD system. Therefore since loss of traction on the front wheels is such a HUGE threat to safety the TC system is tuned to be HYPER-ACTIVE, absolute INSTANT activation at even the slighest hind or indication of a loss of traction event.
Are you by any chance in the habit of even moderately accelerating into, out of, a turn..?
Accelerating into a turn, a tight turn especially, on a low traction, WET, surface might result in a period of brief wheelspin/slip, thereby activating TC, Traction Control, engine dethrottling and the "clicking" from pulsating front brake application.
"over bumps"
Wheelspin/slip very often occurs in that situation and that brings TC into play if no braking is involved.
"over bumps while (lightly) braking"
Brief wheelspin/slip often results from loss of traction due to tire rebound and that results in brief, one "click" ABS activation.
If my front wheel losses traction and my car is 4 yrs old, tires may be thinning out on the thread. Can replacing tires solve the problem? or could it be sth with the drive train itself?
when I parallel parked into a space and adjust the car more to the curb by turn left and right, on reverse i would hear clicks too. Does that also mean stress is transferred to the drive training causing TC system to come on in turn activating the ABS?
I didn't get a chance to really pull out the SH-AWD fuses to see click sound disappear. I will try it this weekend and will post my findings afterward.
If clicking sound would be appeared normal (ABS activation) from stresses on drive train what can be done to cure it? There wasn't any clicking ever since I purchased the car until the last 6-months or so.
I got multiple quotes all in the rnage of ~$1240.
I read some good reviews about nitto nt420S tires including one MDX owner.
Got discount tire to match the price quoted by onlinetires.com, ~$600 out the door (no tire protection warranty).
Given nitto's are almost 50% of Michelin was wondering if anyone else has tried the tires out and what the experience was.
Really leaning towards trying them out though any feedback would be great.
Thanks
Thanks
(compared to the oem Michelin's)
better wet & dry traction have not driven them in the snow yet, a little more road noise in the cabin, we had vibration & balance issues with the michelins the dealer replaced all 4 michelin tires because they could not road force balance them within spec. so far no vibration issues with the nitto. I had them road force balanced & the mechanic made it a point to tell me that they balanced very nicely. Which says alot for the quality of manufacturing of the tires
My vote is for the nitto. Great tire for the money.
Since then we have been having the vibration issue also.
I guess i will be going with Nitto even if there is little more noise, specially since the total price is half of Michelin's.
.
Thanks
I suspect it will say those new tires should go on the rear ONLY.
Anything else and you may have been over-stressing your F/awd driveline components.
My rear tires are a little more worn out than the front ones at this point (dealer kept on rotating them and was aware of the fact i had 2 newer tires).
At this point i will be replacing all four in a couple of weeks anyways.
Thanks for the pointer though i will check the manual also.
I will let folks know of my experience with Nitto in case others are interested.
Thanks
First impression in positive. I didn't feel much difference between the Michelin and Nittos. Probably a 10%-15% more road noise though not bothersome at all and hardly noticeable.
For ~$600 less than Michelin i think they are very well worth it.