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RV TOWING

valuedsonyvaluedsony Member Posts: 2
edited February 2014 in Dodge
I want a dodge ram 2500, but I pull a 32 ft
fifthwheel trailer, can i buy a 4 wheel drive and
still hitch with a level trailer??? also the
factory numbers show the V-10 with more torque and
horsepower both than the cummins diesel?? Any ideas
which would be best.
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Comments

  • dburrowdburrow Member Posts: 11
    It would be tough to tow a level trailer and not touch your bedsides. Only thing I can think of is possibly putting taller tires on your trailer, which might be out of the question.
  • dburrowdburrow Member Posts: 11
    btw-I would get the deisel. You will probably get better fuel economy and a longer engine life.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    One thing you can do to raise your trailer,is to move the axles on your trailer from the top, to the bottom of the springs. This will give you 2-3 inches.
    Also the diesel will get 60% better milage than the V10. The new Cummins that they are putting in the trucks as of Jan. are 235 hp & 450 lbs tq.
  • MotormouthMotormouth Member Posts: 99
    Thanks for the ideas.
  • nikkinikki Member Posts: 5
    We are thinking of buying a short-bed extended cab Dodge diesel. We have also thought about buying a fifth-wheel camper. Since we have always driven motor homes in the past, we are really new to the camping trailer world. My question is, can you tow a 5th-wheel with a short-bed truck? One dealer we talked to said we would need the long bed. However, I am set on the extended cab and my husband won't hear of the long bed with the extended cab because of the turning radius. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    nikki, Most small 5th wheels (up to 28,29 feet)have an extended pin boxes.(that's the part that hooks into the hitch) These can be towed by a short bed pick up. When you get to 30' and over the pin box comes straight down, and doesn't give you enough turning radius. If you turn too sharp the trailer can hit the cab. You can get a special sliding hitch to help with this problem, but there are of realy nice 5th wheels that are under 30' long.
  • nikkinikki Member Posts: 5
    mharde2--Thanks for the info. We are really
    interested in something between 27 and 29' so
    it looks like we will be all right with the short-bed
    truck. Someone also told us that you could tow
    a 5th-wheel that size with the Ford 5.4 with the
    3:55 rear end. Does anyone know anything
    about whether or not that is true?

    Thanks for the help.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    nikki, With that engin I would go for the 3.73 rear end. Also make sure you get a 3/4 ton or better. A 1/2 ton is too light for a 5th weel. I found that out the hard way.
    I have a 26' 5th weel,and have been towing it with a F150 5.8L w/3.55. It towed just fine, but burned up two sets of axle bearings. I'm trading it for 3/4 ton.
    Just my 2 cents worth...
  • 606zp606zp Member Posts: 57
    I'm going to have the same bed rail to fifth wheel clearance problems as in comment #0.

    Is shifting the axle to the bottom of the springs a "typical" solution to this problem?

    Are there any stability issues to consider?

    How much clearance would be considered acceptable?

    How much "out of level" can be tolerated with a 27' fifth wheel?
  • nikkinikki Member Posts: 5
    mharde2--Thanks. That's the kind of info we really need. Practical experience is always worth a lot more than something somebody read or heard.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    Is anyone out there towing a small to medium 5th wheel with a Dodge Ram Turbo Diesel? I just bought a 98 Dodge Ram 24V Turbo Diesel, and I have a 26' 5th wheel. I havn't towed it yet, but I was wondering how it tows in O/D, or is that recamended?
    Mine has a 3.55 axle. It turns 1850 rpm in O/D at 65 mph, and 2650 rpm in 3rd geer. The noise level at 2650 is pretty bad. I'm hoping to be able to use O/D alot of the time to hold down the racket...
    The Ram seems to be louder than the Power stroke, by a good bit, if anyone was wondering. I hope I can live with it...
  • 606zp606zp Member Posts: 57
    mharde2, I have a 27' fifth wheel I plan to pull once I get my 2500 Cummins. I'm curious as to
    what the owner's manual recommends. What's the weight of your fifth wheel? Are you driving hills and mountains or flat highways?
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    606zp, My 5th wheel weighs about 6300lbs. Dodge's Max Trailer Tow Rating is 10300 lbs. w/3.55 axle & 12300 w/4.10. I got the 3.55 but don't know if that was the right choise or not yet. I travel in flat lands and mountians both. I wish I had more information for you, but I will keep you posted.
    What are you towing with now, and with what axle ratio?
    I think I will end up getting the exhaust break installed before I do very much mountian driving though. Not much compression breaking at all.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    606zp, You should find a world of difference with your new truck. It should tow your 5th wheel like your old truck towed your pop-up. Also a 5th wheel towes so easy you almost forget it back there, untill you look in the mirror.
    The hight of the bed is fine. Its about 3" higher than my F150, but I had bed rails on it which made it about the same hight, so no problem there.
    Yes I did get the aux springs. I don't know if I like them though. When you hit a medium size bump they make a banging sound as the hit the stops. I only ordered them to get the stabalizer bar that comes with it anyway. If they get on my nerves I'll just take the stops off.
    The new engine comes with the heavy duty valve springs so all you have to do is hook up the exaust brake. Have you done much mountian driving with your 90 diesel? Did you have to ride the brakes alot going down hills?
    I'm not a member of TDR yet. Do you recomend it? I'll check out that happy camper...thanks.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    606zp, You should find a world of difference with your new truck. It should tow your 5th wheel like your old truck towed your pop-up. Also a 5th wheel tows so easy you almost forget it back there, untill you look in the mirror.
    The hight of the bed is fine. Its about 3" higher than my F150, but I had bed rails on it which made it about the same hight, so no problem there.
    Yes I did get the aux springs. I don't know if I like them though. When you hit a medium size bump they make a banging sound as the hit the stops. I only ordered them to get the stabilizer bar that comes with it anyway. If they get on my nerves I'll just take the stops off.
    The new engine comes with the heavy duty valve springs so all you have to do is hook up the exhaust brake. Have you done much mountain driving with your 90 diesel? Did you have to ride the brakes alot going down hills?
    I'm not a member of TDR yet. Do you recommend it? I'll check out that happy camper...thanks.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    OOPS...
  • sundancesundance Member Posts: 14
    I have a 26 foot fifth wheel with a unloaded vehicle weight of 5540 pounds that I'm pulling with a F150 with a 5.8 engine and a 3.55 rear end. I' concerned that I'm putting too much strain on the engine and trans. Is this a valid concern?
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    sundance, I pulled the same trailer with the same rig as you for 4 years. The only prob I had was the axle bearing burning up. I have now learned that you are supposed to change the gear lube in the rear end to synthetic if you are going to be towing long distances.
    I had my transmission fluid & filter changed every 15,000 miles, and changed the oil every 3,000. I Had no trouble with the engine and transmission.
  • sundancesundance Member Posts: 14
    mharde2
    Thanks for the info. I'm looking at the '99 F250 v10 4x4 and/or 98 F250 5.4 4x4. My main concern is the height of the bed on the trucks. My current 150 4x4 is almost two high for the 5th wheel. Any information or advice will be appreciated.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    Sundance, Your right, the new F250 4x4 is supposed to be very tall. One thing you can do is move the axles on your trailer from the top of the spring, to the bottom, This can give you an extra 3"to4". I think that there is a kit you can get to do this. But I don't know that you need one or not. You might see if anyone else has heard of this. You might also try a site called happy camper. http://www.hcampers.com/hcbbs/index.html
  • Spike9Spike9 Member Posts: 2
    Help, I have a 89 S-10 4wd.auto.4.3L can someone tell me my towing cap. and can I tow 4 wheel down.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    Fredwood, Whats a sprag?
  • belookingbelooking Member Posts: 2
    I currently have an 86 F250 4x4 that sits a lot higher than the new Dodges. Have pulled a 38 foot, 28 Layton with a slideout, and a couple of other trailers with no problem. The 28' Layton sat a little up hill, but never caused a problem towing. You can move the axles as mentioned by several others if necessary. Makes the trailer sit 3-5 inches higher depending on the make of the trailer. All the dealers/pullers I've talked with said if the truck/trailer turns without hitting the rails on the bed of the truck, shouldn't be a problem.....
  • fredwoodfredwood Member Posts: 79
    Its a bearing that the Torque Converter Clutch output shaft rides on...i.e. fourth gear.
  • fredwoodfredwood Member Posts: 79
    Belooking,

    You better "belooking" for steep drive ways, dips, anything that will make the angle between your truck and trailer change! Lets just say personal experence...doh!!!!
  • rvhabitatrvhabitat Member Posts: 1
    We will be going fulltiming soon. We will most likely have a 33'Alpenlite. Alpenlite states that all their trailers are rated to pull with a 3/4 ton pick-up. I will be buying a 1999 Ford super duty with the 7.3 diesil. it comes with 3.73 now. Which would be better the 3/4 ton or 1-ton. If i go with the 1-ton should i go DRW or SRW. Plan to travel in the west to start.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    I would go with the SWR. You don't need the extra load carring ability with that trailer, and your tow rating is higher with the SWR.
  • Spike9Spike9 Member Posts: 2
    Fredwood:
    Thanks for the towing wts. on my chevy S-10. Can I tow this truck behind my motorhome. Its a 89 S-10, 4wd, auto. If I put the transver case in neutral, can I pull it 4 wheels down. Is there a difference in tow bars for this truck, other that price ?
    Thanks again, Spike9
  • fredwoodfredwood Member Posts: 79
    I THINK you can tow behind a motorhome with the transfer case in neutral but check your owners manual for sure before doing so.

    Check with camping world they have all kinds of tow bars but probably not the cheapest. Good luck.
  • WEEHOLEWEEHOLE Member Posts: 1
    I WOULD LIKE TO HEAR FROM AN OWNER OF A 1998 OR 1997 FORD F-150, 5.4 LITER , THAT TOWS ATRAVEL TRAILER OF 21 FOOT LENGTH. ALSO THE SUPERCAB BODY. I WOULD LIKE TO KNOW YOUR MILES PER GALLON WHILE TOWING AND APPROXIMATE RANGE BETWEEN FILLUPS WHILE TOWING.
  • jarrettwjarrettw Member Posts: 14
    To all, I know this isn't a selling forum but I have a 93 Prowler 28 footer with a slider. I'm working on my masters degree and I won't have any time for to go camping for 2 years. I'll make a fair deal. If interesrted please let me know
  • arazaraz Member Posts: 27
    Geez, what a place this is. We towed a 21' 5th with a 93 Ranger, and now with a 96 Ram 1500. Both were bought for towing. Here's what we found-
    1-Replaced rear axle bearings on the Ranger
    2-Dodge is higher, so flipped axles to spring bottoms with a kit from DEXTER Axles (they have a web page)
    3-Nothing but axle bearings and routine maintainence on the Ranger in 60K of towing.
    4-Loss of performance and shifting irregularities at 27K with the Dodge. ANY IDEAS?? TKS.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    araz, I tow a 26' 5th wheel, and I also had axle bearing problems with my F150, which is the main reason I got rid of it. I now have a Dodge 2500 TD. In the Dodge manual it says if you tow a trailer for long distances to change the gear lube in the rear end to 140w synthetic to prevent burning the axle bearings. I don't know why Ford doesn't recommend this also. I would still be driving the ford if not for that problem. The second time I had them replaced I even asked if they had a synthetic gear lube, and they said they didn't. IDOITS
  • 606zp606zp Member Posts: 57
    araz,

    Did you do the axle flip yourself?
  • arazaraz Member Posts: 27
    mharde2- Thanks for the info. I'll do that. Have to see if Dodge has a "friction modifier" compatable with the 140W synthetic (I have posi).

    606ZP- Yes I did the flip myself. Very simple kit, and tremendous factory support if you lost. Also added lubricated shackle bolt kit. DEXTER's support has enabled me to fix all axle oriented troubles in my driveway.
  • 606zp606zp Member Posts: 57
    Araz,
    I searched for DEXTER's homepaage but couldn't find it. Can you help me?
    What kind of axle oriented troubles did you encounter? Did you have any problem keeping the
    wheels aligned after moving them? Do you have dual axles? How did you jack the camper?

    I may have to do this to my 27 footer.

    Thanks for the info,
    Ron
  • arazaraz Member Posts: 27
    606ZP-
    On this computer/net surfing thing, all I do is type in www.dexteraxle or go to something like excite/yahoo/alta vista and search for "dexter".
    You can get a whole tech manual printed to you, if you like. Or read it on your screen.
    I have an axle made in late 91. It had inherent brake troubles. The magnets would hit the armature on road impact, an activate via the servo. The fix was moving a hole on the magnet arm, for the return spring. The trailer manufacturer used the wrong springs in their assembly of my rig. They were rated at 1100# instead of 1400#. also had wrong load range tires on it. DEXTER straightened me out on the whole thing.
  • arazaraz Member Posts: 27
    606ZP-
    Part 2 I should have said 2 axles. The axle registers on the spring's center bolt, via the saddle. I have not seen any tire wear that would be associated with axle misalignment. If you're going to flip the axles, I suggest you do one end at at time. Jack it on the frame, as close to the spring mounts as possible. I removed the spring at each wheel, one at a time. Don't take the whole axle out. Its a bear for one guy to replace
    while it's rolling around under the trailer. This is a good time to check your springs and mounting hardware. Hope this helps.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    araz, How did you know what your spring where rated? I couldn't find any markings on mine specifying load rating. I have had two springs break on my 26' 5th wheel recently.
  • arazaraz Member Posts: 27
    mharde2- I called Dexter Axle with the distance between the eyes, number of leaves and width. Since it was a Dexter unit, they knew exactly what the rating was. I went to the proper size for my trailer and haven't broke one since.
  • mharde2mharde2 Member Posts: 278
    araz, Were the leaves on the new springs longer that the old ones? I replaced all my springs with ones that were the same length from eye to eye and same width but the second and third spring were longer. I have a 26' Terry 5th wheel. I hope I don't brake any more....
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