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Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance

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  • mnrep2mnrep2 Member Posts: 200
    I just put in the FRAM Fresh Breeze cabin filter for $14.00. If can be purchased on Amazon, and features a carbon impregnated filter with an additional layer of Arm and Hammer baking poweder to boot. Smells like a new car, you won't be dissapointed ;)
  • jezmiajezmia Member Posts: 36
    The manufacturer's suggestion is 205 70R/15 or 205 65R/15. I would like to know from your experience which tires to use for this car. I am in FL. Brand and model if you have it. Someone suggested using tirerack.com, but with shipping and installation it seems much more expensive than getting it at a local tire store.

    I've had Uniroyal installed before with 75k miles guarantee 205 70R/15, but the steering wheel shakes when driving, only 45k in the tires. I took it to the mechanic and he did balancing and rotation, but the problem persists.

    He said I need to change the tires. I don't think he is trying to sell me new tires or anything as he suggested going to any tire place for replacement as he doesn't do that.
  • redpearlredpearl Member Posts: 14
    edited April 2010
    I am hoping to protect the front bumper from stone/insect dings on an upcoming road trip. Does anyone have any experience or recommendations on a front end cover such as LeBra? Appreciate your advice.
  • waterwomynwaterwomyn Member Posts: 4
    They all help, but don't leave them on for good; they can damage the finish.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    Was going to get the fram fresh breeze cabin air filter and noticed that the air flow arrow points downward and on the original OEM filter the air flow arrow points upward. On the non OEM filters, would you just reverse the direction of the filter. On the Fram Fresh Breeze there is more of the Arm and Hammer baking soda on one side than the other. Otherwise both sides of the filter are identical.

    Thanks for your input.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    What I meant to say on this original post is on the OEM filter, there is an arrow with the word up, which probably has nothing to do with airflow, just the position of the OEM filter. Question is with most filters I see there is an air flow arrow pointing downwards. So is the airflow always downward no matter what the filter?

    Hope this makes sense.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I just did EXACTLY the same task yesterday, so it's fresh in my mind.

    Same replacement filter, actually - Fram fresh breeze.

    What I noticed it that the "dirty" side was facing up on the OE filter. So I looked at the flow direction of the new filter, and installed it in that direction.

    One thing I did not like - the OE filter has many, many more pleats. So the surface area is greater. The Fram filter may not flow as well. I'll check it in 10,000 miles or so to see if it clogs up sooner, but that was a bummer.

    Next time I think I'll buy an OE filter. The Fram wasn't cheap, either, IIRC $17 or so at WalMart.

    What did you pay for yours?
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    Thanks, you confirmed what I thought. After I posted I realized it was probably a dumb question. I have not bought yet, but 17 bucks at Walmart. Was your OEM and fram replacement flat on the bottom with the pleats on top(fram CF9846A? I also see a CF10132 with pleats on both sides. The CF9846A shows CE/LE and the other one shows XLE/Limited. That is confusing since I have seen other sites that show you can use either one.

    Not CAF related, but when you replace your tires what brand will you be looking at? Mine have 41K and still have some tread left, but wife says they slip on takeoff sometimes in wet weather. Was looking at the Michelin Harmony or Yokohama brand.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I got the CF10132, with pleats on both sides.

    To be honest I doubt it matters, the direction of the air flow, but I did install as per the arrows.

    Haven't shopped at all for tires yet. 30k miles and the Dunlops are still going strong. Not bad for an OE tire.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    Since you mentioned the OE filter, I found one Toyota site that sells them online. They were about 15.00 a piece plus 8.00 shipping. If you get 2 the shipping is about the same. Believe it was Toyota of Nashua. Weird, but the 2 pack was more than buying two seperatly.

    By the way, is your van an LE and was your OE filter pleated on just one side?

    I have seen the OE filter online both ways, pleated only on one side and pleasted on both sides. I assume the filter casing with accept both.

    My local dealers wanted 24.00 for one filter.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Weird that the 2-pack costs more.

    Yes, 2007 LE, and exposed pleated on both sides of the OE and the Fram filter.

    Next time I'll buy OE even if it costs more.
  • madams1madams1 Member Posts: 101
    Ateixeira, forgot to ask - Did you have any trouble getting the damper arm off? It looks a bit tight getting your hand in there and looks like it may be a bit tough getting the arm to slide off. Also, I get from the video that you do not have to push in very much to drop down the glove box. In the video it looks like the guy took the glove box all the way off. I thought it just hangs there after pushing in and dropping down.

    Have a great weekend!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited May 2010
    It was surprisingly easy, actually.

    I didn't even see the video - I just followed the instructions in the owner's manual.

    Very easy job, took me just 2 minutes, maybe.

    PS Yes it sort of just hangs there.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Goodyear Auto Center did my last oil change, and the oil filter housing is too tight.

    I usually do my own oil, but this was in the middle of the huge blizzard we had.

    Any how, I tried a wrench, failed, tried a metal 65/67 filter wrench on a ratchet, failed, then tried another plastic 65/67 filter wrench from NAPA, failed yet again.

    This thing seems bonded on.

    Any advice?

    Will a 64mm filter wrench do it?

    Should I try a strap wrench or a clasp-style?

    Or take it back and demand they torque it to spec?
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    Don't go back. If it's "doable," do it yourself. If it's not doable, they will mess it up... they'll be on the hook for it, but you really want these goons to get creative on your car?

    The filter wrench on a ratchet is no good... by design, there's only so much torque you can put on there... makes ya wish they had used one of those to tighten...

    A strap wrench is probably your best bet, but dolce, dolce. If you break the filter w/out getting it off, it's tow-truck time.

    If you feel strong in the faith, and have room to maneuver, a really large screwdriver from Sears, rammed through the center off the filter, makes an excellent and proven wrench. However, once you start, there's no going back.

    First, try the strap wrench, but don't twist to more than a little... you still need flow to drive it to a "real" shop.

    This would bother me not a little. How hard is it to do this right? Like you, I change my own oil, and I tighten the filter by hand... and 9 times out of 10, remove it by hand as well.

    Good luck,
    -Mathias
  • islandvanislandvan Member Posts: 23
    just took my 2010 in for the 10k service and was told I must use synthetic oil. has anyone else heard this?

    Thanks
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    This is a canister/cartridge refillable type filter, so the screw driver punch idea doesn't apply.

    I may get a strap wrench for next time, though.

    I ended up taking it back yesterday, though I spoke to the Manager politely but firmly about following OE torque specs.

    They got it off, saying it wasn't difficult (doubt that). I supplied the filter and they changed it, and then topped off the oil since some was lost.

    So at least they corrected their mistake for free.

    I just hope I can get it off next time. Thing is - they can tighten using the 3/8" drive at the bottom of a removable cap, but not loosen since the cap itself comes off.

    Lesson learned - strap wrench next time and if you want to do it right, do it yourself!
  • dbj44dbj44 Member Posts: 1
    Was hoping someone culd tell me where the Theromstat is located
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    FWIW, I bought a huge crescent wrench, 16.5", that should help remove the filter no matter how tight the guys at Goodyear Auto made it.
  • sienna11guysienna11guy Member Posts: 1
    Within a week of driving home our new 2011 Sienna XLE, we saw oil on the garage floor. After several days back at the dealership service center, it turns out that there was a defective cam housing and gasket that required replacement, and it appears we aren't the only 2011 Sienna owners with this problem already. They pretty much have to remove the top half of the engine to replace the part. Yea, right, our new Sienna with half it's engine pulled out didn't please us at all. We've owned several Toyotas now, but this by far has been a major frustration. So it's fixed, but now we keep finding all sorts of little things like loose screws, dangling wires, broken wire harnesses, etc. We wouldn't wish this problem on anybody.
  • compcodercompcoder Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    We didn't have an oil leak, but our 2011 Sienna LE is about to get a new Cam Shaft also. I reported an Engine Knock to the Dealer.
  • freebirdfreebird Member Posts: 77
    I have a '99 Sienna and am investigating installing an inline power steering filter. I do not see a real good place to install on the supply side. Anyone accomplished this yet? TIA
  • cevans123cevans123 Member Posts: 1
    Hello. We are having this same issue of stalling when starting with our Sienna. I know this was posted a while ago, but wondering if you remember the 'fix' you found on Edmunds that was faxed to the repair house? Was it cleaning the IAC valve?
  • mweinstemweinste Member Posts: 3
    I think so but I sort of remember the problem as stalling when driving as well as starting.
  • wills5wills5 Member Posts: 1
    If your Sienna won't idle when the engine is cold, then it is likely that the IAC valve is sticking.
    Loosen your aircleaner cover by popping out the clips on the fender side. Wiggle it out of the holds on the engine side. Take the 4 inch airduct off the end by loosening the screw clamp.
    Look down the duct with a flash light. You will see that the duct splits as it enters two throttle control units. The rear-most throttle control has a square hole in the bottom of it which you can see if you hold the duct straight and the light just right. Take a piece of plastic pipe or tubing with about a 3/8-1/2" inside diameter and stick it down to this square hole. Blow Gumout carburetor cleaner or a similar product through the tubing or pipe for about 3 seconds. Let it dry for about 30 minutes and repeat. Let it dry an hour and then reattach the airduct and the air cleaner cover. Start the car. It may take a few cranks to get any excess cleaner out of the system. Unless you have waited too long befor using this technique and thus damaged the IAC valve, this should solve the problem.
  • sgb2003sgb2003 Member Posts: 44
    I got a code P1150 only 2000 Sienna LE, which I guess means Bank 2 Sensor 1. I am looking at Denso replacement part. It has upstream left (234-9007) and upstream right (234-9009). Is bank 2 sensor 1, upstream left, or right?

    Thanks.
  • sgb2003sgb2003 Member Posts: 44
    edited December 2011
    I am getting confusing results when looking for P1150. In one place it said it is for bank 2 sensor 1, and in another place it said bank 1 sensor 2. Anyone know exactly which one it is supposed to be?

    Thanks.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,279
    My 04 XLE with 70k is having a little bit of a hard start problem that has been diagnosed as the fuel pump. Shop is pushing me to replace the fuel pump assembly. Difference in cost between a fuel pump and fuel pump assembly is about $400. Can anyone offer insight into which is the way to go? How much more work is it to replace the pump only?

    Can anyone recommend and good online parts houses that I can source one from?
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,279
    My 04 XLE is in need of a fuel pump due to a hard start problem. The part is sold as an assembly, but also as just the pump. The mechanic really wants me to get the assembly, but it's about $200 more. What is the difference in labor with the two?

    Additionally, what is the process to replace it altogether? How many hours am I looking at?
  • richardsonrichardson Member Posts: 92
    Can anybody tell me which glove box the cabin air filter is behind in a 2011 sienna? There is an upper and lower. Thanks is advance.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Lower, here are pics that should help:

    http://www.fixrambler.com/art135.html

    Get an OEM filter. I bought a cheap FRAM replacement, and it had a lot fewer pleats. I won't make that mistake again.
  • shuedshued Member Posts: 107
    Hi, guys:
    I needs some help here for my friends 2004 Siena LE with 8 seats.
    This car is daily driven, without disconnecting battery or jump-start lately.
    Its SMOG inspection fails because of MIL/ODB II not ready.
    When I use a scanner, I find that there have two monitors not ready or
    incomplete:
    1): O2 sensor 2): EVAP.
    Also,
    1): There has no error code, (completed or pending).
    2): MIL (Check Engine Light) is NOT on.
    3): Five monitors (misfire, fuel, etc ) are completed.
    Driving looks noraml in any condition.

    Any comments? Thanks.
  • nate406nate406 Member Posts: 1
    You can get them at walmart.com
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    This is nasty; no error codes per se, but "not ready" is going to be beyond the shade-tree mechanic.
    Go to siennachat.org and ask around. With luck, someone has had this and can point you in the right direction.
    OBD-II is fantastic when it works, and it has proven very reliable, but when the system fails, you gots trouble.

    The googles and enthusiast's web sites are your friend.

    Good luck,
    -Mathias
  • mikescmikesc Member Posts: 21
    Can anyone suggest a good wrench to remove the housing on a 2011 Sienna. I bought a $6 housing cap wrench at Autozone and it was just a little to big to get a grip. Do I just need to go to Toyota parts and get it?
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    I'm not familiar with the layout on the new ones; we have an '03.
    But if it's halfway accessible, just get a strap wrench at the auto parts store... even my grocery store carries them.
    I don't k now why the factory puts them on as tightly as they do. I spin them on and take them off by hand on both our cars.
    Cheers -Mathias
  • acurafan10acurafan10 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna LE with ~115,000 miles. It has the check engine light ON and is now due for inspection. The codes being read are P0440, P0441 and P0446 pointing to evap problem. I have already taken it to a local mechanic who is saying that he has thoroughly checked the emissions system (using smoke test) and found no leakages or cracks anywhere. He has now asked me to go to the dealer as it requires special diagnostics/tools that he does not have. In the mechanic's words, "you are at the mercy of a toyota dealer now". Can someone please help and advice what I can do to take care of this problem. My inspection sticker has already expired. Also, when I mentioned these codes to a local Firestone service manager, he was aking me to replace three items:
    - Purge Valve
    - Canister
    - Canister Shutoff Valve
    Reading thru the information on the web, I am confused as to which valves are part of the canister and which are seperate from the canister. In other words, do I need to replace all valves seperately or are some of the values included as part of a new canister assembly. Thanks for your assistance.
  • dooper67dooper67 Member Posts: 26
    Jerry
  • dooper67dooper67 Member Posts: 26
    4 months ago during routine service, my Toyota dealer found the control arms/bushings to be separated. That was about $400 parts and $1000 labor. Today, a front spring broke, bending the control arms, and destroying a tire. Luckily, this was at slow speed and my wife could pull over safely. Would have been a different story on the expressway at 65 mph. This will be another $2400. So, these 2 repairs are almost 50% of the car's value. I didn't see this issue raised in any other forum discussions. Any thoughts on this issue? Does this sound like just bad luck, or possibly a faulty repair the first time? Should I go ahead with the repair and keep the car, or trade it in. BTW, our dealer has a very good reputation. Thanks.
    Jerry
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,818
    edited April 2013
    On a 2004, I had not heard anything of the sort ... We had the rubber bushing (insert?) on our 2003 separate as well, when the car was relatively new and barely out of warranty.
    Since I never went to the dealer for anything after the purchase, I didn't even try to get a warranty claim honored. I think it was a bad batch of control arms in 2003 -- consumer report's ratings show a black spot for that category for that year only. It would not be unthinkable that the part hasn't really changed for the redesign and the 'badness' carried into the next model year.

    The replacement part has been fine; i kept the originals to see if they can be rebuilt... they can... but you need to buy the part for the Avalon... I read that year's ago, can't give you a source.

    As far as the spring breaking: That should never happen, but I don't see how they could have caused it during the repair. Either way, you couldn't prove it.

    With a car that old -- any car, really -- you need to find a good independent mechanic to handle stuff for you. Develop a good relationship and some trust, and it'll work out for both of you.

    Cheers -Mathias
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did she hit anything? Seems like it would take a lot of energy to break a spring.
  • greginillinoisgreginillinois Member Posts: 1
    Our 2009 Sienna lost all of its' refrigerant charge. Tech found a leak at front evaporator core with sniffer. Turns out Toyota's new design requires the replacement of a $1300 assembly, plus about $1000 in labor to tear dash out. Don't think I'll get any help from Toyota on this, but isn't it unreasonable to expect a $2300 repair on a 4 year old vehicle? This is our 4th and probably last Toyota. Any similar experiences??
  • waterwomynwaterwomyn Member Posts: 4
    Well, you should be upset about the failure in only 4 years, but you would pay the same if it was a Chevy or Dodge. Repair costs and parts prices are through the roof. The parts are expensive, but I would call around for a few other estimates from independents.
  • joew_01joew_01 Member Posts: 1
    wills5,

    We had the same problem with our 2001 Sienna and tried your fix. It works! A couple of hours after, it idled about 300 rpm. it took a day or so for the idle to stay up around 1100 rpm.

    A thousand thanks for posting this. We like our dealer & their service guys, but this was great.
  • zontar101zontar101 Member Posts: 2
    Had the same exact problem with my 2004 Sienna XLE. The control arm rubber around the metal middle completely came apart. We found out when we were experiencing a kind of jerking stop when backing up.

    This year had the same problem with the top motor mount; the rubber again essentially is failing.

    What I found was that a good, trusted auto body repair shop was able to do the repair at about 40% the cost of the dealer for the control arms.

    Good luck with your fix, hopefully it wont be too painful
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    135k miles on my 06 Sienna. Had to replace the fuel pump. Car would run fine then suddenly lose power while underway. Fixed by restarting, but would then happen again.

    Dealer kept it for a few days to duplicate and wound up replacing the fuel pump. $900 as it was in the fuel tank. They did not have one in stock as they say they never break - just my luck.

    I suppose I can't complain too much about the repair - other than the inconvenience as it happened while on vacation so we never made our destination.

    In nearly 8 years and 135k miles this is the second repair. First was a new actuator for the power door that I installed myself. So total repairs over 8 years is just over $1,000. I would rather have no repairs, but I suppose things could be much worse if a tranny went bad or head gasket blew.

    Of course my Accord has 165k miles and has a total of $105 in repairs (O2 Sensor), so my expectations are pretty high.
  • gsemikegsemike Member Posts: 2,279
    Time to change the transmission fluid on my 04 Sienna FWD. Have read a few how to's and none mention the filter. Has anyone done this? My thinking is that it has to be folly to change the fluid and leave the old filter in, but what is the official word on this?
  • waterwomynwaterwomyn Member Posts: 4
    You should drain it, drop the pan and change the gasket and filter, check for damage, put back together and add fluid. Really should never just change the fluid, although that is what so-called transmission jiffy shops do now days.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Getting to three of the pan retaining bolts is made very difficult by a frame rail. I bought a wrench with what looks to be the right sweep to get in there, and will let you know when I get a chance to do the job if it works. The new filter and gasket are on the workbench. I also need to hit Toyota for some type WS (mine is an '08) tranny fluid.
  • jprocjproc Member Posts: 135
    My turn signals stopped working so I figured it was a blown fuse (first one in 13.5 years of ownership)Anyway got out the owners manual which told me fuse box was under the hood.Found it and then realized rest of manual might as well have been written in an extinct dialect as I couldn't figure out what fuse was supposed to do what-my manual appears to say that the turn signals are governed by a 7.5 amp fuse-alas I have no 7.5 amp fuses-it also appears to say that it is the one in the upper right hand corner-after 45 minites I managed to extract the fuse in that spot (gnarling up both my hands in the process) and replaced it and nothing happened.
    So if anyone has a sienna of that year and knows anything about the fuses HELP.
    Lastly my hoses appear cracked in spots-I'm guessing that means I should replace them but am hoping someone who knows better than I will tell me its normal for hoses to look like that
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