Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

santiago2 · April 2006

I have the same car with the same problem when I stopped for gas yesterday, starting the car again acted as if it didn't have any gas,had to floor it in order to start. why does it do that??

kirby2010 · April 2006

From my perspective there's no question - I would buy another 2.7T w/6-speed. I have a 2001 w/70,000 miles. I've had a few problems but the dealer has dealt with all of them during a routine service interval. In the one or two instances I've had to leave the car I had a loaner. Usually I wait for it. The car is a blast to drive. I looked at BMW, Volvo, etc. I may trade next year. I really like the manual - the whole family learned on a manual - and there's not much left out there to choose from. So a 4.2 Audi is near the top of the list.

I have the oil changed every 5,000 miles and I never, ever, drive the car anywhere less than distance enough for the water AND oil temperature to come up. And I don't merge onto the highway at 90 mph unless the temperature is up. I have a '93 Jeep Grand Cherokee that I drive to Home Depot. Five years and no dents in the doors!

I almost got a ticket once. I drove through a radar trap and around the curve a state patrolman ran into the highway - stopping a couple lanes of traffic - to point at me and wave me over to the side of the road. By the time I got over and onto the shoulder I was 1/4 mile up from the three or four state police cars with flashing lights and patrolmen passing out tickets. My wife was pissed but she dug out the registration. Suddenly one of the troopers, not the guy that waved us over, got in his patrol car and sped past us. I looked at my wife and said "the hell with this." I told her I was taking off and if the guy that flagged us over came after us we'd tell him we thought it was the other guy and we had pulled over by mistake. Needless to say we drove the rest of the way with the cruise on at 67 mph. In case any patrolmen are reading this - we were in Arizona.

akiehl · April 2006

I just bought a 2002 A6 with 64,200 miles. The seller told me that the "vibration" at lower acceleration speeds was some worn motor mounts, which he replaced. After just 2500 miles the "vibration" has turned out to be very jerky and erratic shifting. At low speed acceleraion and sometimes around corners it feels as if it jumps gears, hesitates and then jumps into gear. I am afraid it may be transmission. However, I did take it to a reputable import dealer who drove it and was able to replicate the experience. They were very convinced that it was NOT a major transmission, but rather, simply needed a "reflash" of the computer components to correct an electrical issue. Doe sthis sound consistent with the symptoms of your transmission problem and if so, what was your course of action? thanks for your response. Andy K.

agentbl · April 2006

I have a 2002 A6, 3.0 and I have a strange whistle that seems to come from "the unknown". It sounds off when the engine is cold. Then seems to just disappear. No dealership can find it. Anybody else have this problem??

mongo_slade · April 2006

...So..I took my 99 A6 in to an independant mechanic this morning for the 80000 mile service...hoping to save a few bucks from the dealer. He call me and tells me I have a major front suspension problem...I shouln't drive the car on the freeway..if I have kids don't let them ride in the car....I've been driving on the freeway...haven't noticed any shaking in steering, or regular noises or anything...now not saying he's TOTALLY full of it but...has anyone had any issue with their suspension?? Is it a common issue? Cause this dude wants 1300 to replace it....seems mad suspect.....can anyone provide some insight?

Mr_Shiftright · April 2006

I would think this grave condition could be demonstrated to you on the lift by the mechanic. Sounds like you don't have enough information.

dan339g · April 2006

I think I may have my first warranty issue with my 5 month old A6 3.2. The "one touch down/up" feature for the driver's power window, whereby it goes all the way down or up if you depress/pull the button to it's full extent of travel does not seem to be working. I pulled out the manual to see if I had inadvertently disabled this functionality in some obscure MMI sub menu option, since it had been working previously but that does not appear to be the case. The window does still function manually, and the auto feature works for all the other windows, so I'm thinking it is a just a bad switch. This wouldn't be shocking since it is the most frequently used window, but was wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue.

picard12 · April 2006

After reading the A6 forum, I am convinced German engineering has gone south completely. It shows japanese technology rule supreme. I won't be shopping for audi or VW, MB, BMW.

I will stick to Honda, toyota, nissan. mazda was bought by Ford hence its inherit ford problems.

clueless6 · April 2006

i just bought a 2001 a6 2.7t and was completely unaware of how much it cost to fix these cars. anyway my comfort control modual that controls the windows, sunroof, keyless entry, and interior lighting. so i orderd the modual myself and don't have the owners manual yet so i don't knoe where it goes!!!! does anyone know where it goes??????
thanks

guzzler4 · April 2006

I have a 2001 A8L with approx. 55K miles and the MIL has been on for quite a while. The dealer said the codes indicated sporadic misfiring of the #2 & #4 cylinders, and the service writer says it may be due to a camshaft controller that is sticking or malfunctioning. Of course, they warned that ignoring the problem could lead to the catalytic converters failing. I have an extended warranty, but the dealer says the problem is not covered by the contract. I have tried using PROTECH to "clean" the intake system, but the light does not go out. It did go out on several occasions when the problem first occurred. I don't feel I have the power I should have, but the car seem to run fine other than that. I plan to get the light diagnosed at the dealer soon to make sure there is no other problem developing other than the occasional misfiring in those cylinders. It seems the engine monitoring devices may be overengineered, but you have to keep in mind it is a 5 valve engine. Good luck with your issue, and if I find a good cure, I'll send it along.

Guzzler4

haudistijn · April 2006

Sounds familiar to me.
Only got rid of the problem buying the new A6 (211 HP... Smashing !!!)
Was tempted by the BMW tough.

sdevine · April 2006

Hi. I also have an A6, mine is a 1998, and I have about 105,000 miles on mine. There are a couple of weak spots in the front suspension that you need to be aware of- the first being the tie rod ends. This is probably the one he is identifying at the most serious hazard. However- you need to check and see if there is a recall item on this and whether it applies to your car. It seems- if my memory serves me- that they had to change them to cast iron units, because the others were wearing prematurely. At any rate, I had mine done at about 80,000 so the time seems about right. Check with an Audi dealer for recalls. Otherwise, these should be replaced- but as the other guy said- he should be able to demonstrate it bad ends on the rack- there will be excessive play in them. If they are bad and you have to pay for replacing them- you are looking at $300-$400. Not $1300. Yes these are a saftey related issue and get them done SOON. The other weak point are the control arms. They are aluminum, and they have a tendency to wear out on A6's. The upper ones are cheaper, and the lower ones are more expensive- but they don't tend to go bad all at once. I had 2 uppers go bad so far. The others are just fine. We check them periodically. If one of these goes bad, you will have a clunk as it rattles where the bushing is. The bushings go bad but you can't replace them- have to get the whole arm. With one of these bad, it will clunk way before the safety part comes to play, but with the tie rod ends, I had no indication I could tell when driving. Get a second opinion, have them show you the play, get a better price. Unless of course they are all bad then the price seems about right- but unlikely. Get those tie rod ends checked! Hope this helps.

sdevine · April 2006

I have a 1998 A6, and am wanting to convert the ATF over to pure synthetic. I have been warned that it is difficult to remove all the existing ATF from the torque converter, and that I may have it diluted somewhat by the old fliud. The dealer of course wants $200 to do a normal replacement- which doesn't usually empty the torque converter. My local shop will do it for $30 plus fluid. This is my first car with an automatic, so I am not too familiar with ATF quirks. Has anyone else switched over to pure synthetic, and are there any major issues to be concerned with?

richer1 · April 2006

If the PRNDL switch is bad (they now call it the multifunction switch)the auto will exhibit the conditions that you state. This is a simple job for the service department to perform.

aka1 · April 2006

Can anyone give me detailed instructions for an oil change, including dropping the belly pan to get to the drain plug as well as filter on a 2001 A6 2.7T. Just got done with 4/50K all inclusive maintanence... Please respond if you've actually done this your self- if you haven't no worries. I'd like to do this, but wanted to know what I was getting into. I have changed the oil on my Acura CL-just read that it was a pain to get the belly pan on the A6 removed.

Thanks!

kirby2010 · May 2006

I'll be looking forward to that response, too. My guess is it will include putting the car up on a lift.

audia6ltc · May 2006

You probably have received your answer allready but if your A6 is like mine, the blinker relay is in the hazard switch. You have to take a puddy knife and "carefully" pry of the trim piece around the air ducts and hazard switch and then take a pair of needle nose pliers and pull HARD on the hazard switch and it will come out. Then it is merely unplugging the old and plugging in the new. Push the new unit back into the dash. When replacing the trim piece, make sure you do the top first because it has to get under the hard rubber dash overhang. Be careful because the clips on the trim piece can break easily. Hope this helps

erickpl · May 2006

It may be this you need.

You can find it here.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

-Paul

Just throwing some humor out there.

audia6winprob · May 2006

I have 2000 A6 2.7T...several times recently (randomly!) the drivers window has been stuck in the down position or halfway open, with no response from the controls. Any similar problems and resolutions would be greatly appreciated

kirby2010 · May 2006

I've had the same problem with my 2001. First on the passenger side and then on the driver side. I had a cracked nylon rail - the thingy the widow rides up and down in. The cracked rail was binding the window and it wouldn't close without a push. The last time was out of warranty and I had it fixed at the dealer - $268.

erickpl · May 2006

I had similar issues with my BMW. Window regulators failed due to the glass sticking to the rubber seal around the windows on hot days.

-Paul

audia6winprob · May 2006

that sounds like it...thanks very much...will get it checked out...will let you know the cost here in colorado!

laske2 · May 2006

I recently purchased a 2000 A6 2.8, W/88k. It sounds like an airplane when I use the A/C, dealer says its Audis are like that. I've heard similar noises from other Audis. Is this normal or is it a common problem. The air works fine and there is no loss of power, anyone info would be appreciated.

qqmilky · May 2006

I've changed my oil several times on my 2000 A6 2.7. I use a couple ramps and a creeper and have no problem. Just use a large headed flat screwdriver the loosen the screws for the belly pan. I think mine might not have all of the screws by the wheel wells but have never had a problem with it. Mine is being held on with 3 screws in the back and 2 in the front. A little tricky to line up sometimes. Can be done in under 45 mins.

colin123 · May 2006

Please, please, please tell me you have found a cure for this? I have been researching this very same problem on the web for months! Have you also noticed the rev counter stopping, this induces the Gearbox 'Safe Mode' and the Brake, Oil & ABS lights? Your help would be worth a million dollars to me...

Kind thanks
colin123

bronxfox · May 2006

I'm getting ready to buy a 2000 A6 2.8 and want to know what to expect regarding service issues moving forward. The car has 53,000 miles. Excellent condition. Never owned an Audi and don't know what to expect. Any advice.
Steve

grandmamac · June 2006

Steve:
Just be very sure that you have a thorough check of all transmission / undercarriage seals / gaskets. Leaking is a well recognized problem with the Audi A6 of the vintage you are considering. It cost me $2100 to have mine replaced (at 45,000 miles.) Then, in April of this year (49,000 miles...this is my second car), I was told that not ALL had been fixed and it would cost another $500 to replace the remaining ones. I wrote a pretty strong letter to the service manager of the agency who then advised me that Audi had come up with a new "share the cost" program. As a result, they did the "new" work and billed me $75 while they picked up the rest. Unfortunately, this plan was not retroactive to cover the $2100 I paid out last year.

marleybarr · June 2006

I drive a similar car, 2000 A6 2.7T w/ 93,000 miles. Same outside noise w/ the air running, however, only a bit from the inside cabin.

fki2 · June 2006

Hello all.. I'll make this quick:

I'm about to get into a mint 2002 A6 4.2 with low miles (40k). I test drove the thing, and I got that shimmy everyone had been griping about for years now (between 40-60mph). The dealer said "wheel balancing"... But after reading...

I could not find a definitive "solution" to that problem.

Before I really sign my life away and drive this potential headache :lemon: into my life, can one of you kind souls please clue me in to something I may have missed searching these boards vigorously?

I've printed many posts from you guys, and hopefully that may help me, but did Audi ever come out with an "OFFICIAL" statement regarding the A6's that had the shimmy problem?

You advice and input would be greatly appreciated.

Kind regards,

FKI (aka Perry)

kirby2010 · June 2006

Glad to give one perspective. I don't do a lot of highway driving and on a recent trip I noticed I had a bit of a shimy. On my last service interval I had the tires balanced and rotated. Most of it disappeared. But the service rep told me I had been driving on under inflated tires. Not sure how he know this but it's certainly plausible. He went on to say that new tires would solve the problem. I haven't had this problem in the past but I went quite a while without keeping an eye on the air pressure. These were new tires at about 55K. (2001 2.7T w/6-speed, new in March 2001, now with 76K)

Some of the roads are terrible here and I "try" to keep an eye on air pressure. My compressor gave out a year ago and I wasn't doing a very good job. After that service check I got a new compressor and am back to a every two or three week check as a precaution.

For those who may be skeptical about the roads - I have about 20 miles of two lane country road to the office. Six stop signs, one stop light. Winter is hard on the roads and they really aren't designed for the traffic. Even at 30-40 mph the car takes a beating. A tire pressure gauge and small compressor are must-haves.

At 40K you must be close to needing new tires. Balanced and properly inflated I think you'll be okay. If those are new tires it could be a different story.

marleybarr · June 2006

As far as brake "shimmy", I went through 4 sets of front factory rotors (on my 2000 A6) with no solution until installing a pair of drilled Zimmerman after market rotors, and they solved that problem.

Also, rotating and balancing the tires seems to take of driving "shake" every other oil change, about 12,000 miles.

sfcharlie · June 2006

Does 2006 A6 have the type of rotors which have to replaced whenever the brake pads are replaced?

duggan1 · June 2006

I have enjoyed my A6 but have had several problems that were not serious but very annoying. The latest problems are: 1. winshield washer fluid leaking occasionally-been in for service 3 times and they can't find problem.
2. After sitting in sun for a period of time my radio will not work-CD player does-radio comes on 10minutes after start up.
3. Finish on all door handles peels and has been peeling since the first year.
Has anyone had these problems or knows of a solution?

bossfifty · June 2006

I have an A6 4.2 2003
For the washer, look closely at the assembly at the base where the pump connects. Mine failed there.
Door handles.... not sure what year you have, but I understand that it was a product composition problem they fixed in most recent years, but older models we are "stuck"
No issues with radio systems

duggan1 · June 2006

Thanks, I will have them check this

underradar · July 2006

I have just gotten a 2006 A6 Quattro. I have Bluetooth capability but don't have the voice recognition package. The system works great when I'm driving and need to talk and listen to a call. But is there any way to transfer a call on the Bluetooth-connected phone from the car's audio system to the Bluetooth phone itself? If I'm driving and my wife wants to use the phone to call one of her friends, I'd rather not have to listen to the call (and she'd rather not have to crane her neck to talk into the in-car microphone). Any help would be appreciated.

christianm · July 2006

Hi, I have a 2006 BMW X5 3.0i with a bluetooth package. My step mother has an 06 A6 like yours, and our bluetooth is virtually the same. So, with my experience the only way to avoid having my friend's/parents listen to my conversations is to go on my phone (razr V3, most motorollas are seteup this way) into 1.) the main menu, select settings 2.) Select Connections 3.) select bluetooth and 4.) (you must be in the car to do this with the phone connected, if you're connected there should be some name for your connection displayed on the phone, select it/highlight it) and select to disconect. Later when you want it back repeat the process however select connect in step 4. Hope this helps, only problem I've had doing this is sometimes after 10 minutes or so the phone reconnects itself to the bluetooth in my car. It's the best I can do haha.

underradar · July 2006

Thanks for the reply, Christianm. I had figured that was an option - I just hoped it wasn't the only option.

My wife has the Acura MDX with a handsfree-operated phone. All she has to do is say "Transfer" and the phone call goes onto her phone and off the sound system. I like that approach better. :-(

matmo · July 2006

the squicks that you heard indicate that the brake pads need replacing.
the pads do not wear even because the caliper is stuck and the piston push against one pad only.
if you had that problem in the front brakes you would feel it in the steering as the steering wheel will pull to one side during braking.
get the shop to release the caliper and apply caliper grease.

4rino · July 2006

The check engine light has been on for about a month. Been to the dealer and the light came back on within a week. I suspect that it may be from the gas that I use which is BP.What gas do you use? Maybe switching gas will work. Other than the check engine light the car runs and performs great. Haven't had anywhere near the problems anyone else has had.

bumbie · July 2006

Has anyone had a problem with their A6 2005/2006 not wanting to turn over and start? It takes me 2 or 3 times to start my car, say 3 out of 5 times. The car grinds to start, almost like the battery is dead (it's not), and it sounds like the engine is barely running when I shift into reverse or drive. I was told the first time, it was the relay switch and it was replaced almost a month later, after I had to follow up about the part. My service guy apparently forgot to call me not thinking it is a problem your car not wanting to start in Arizona in July .
Now two weeks later after the relay switch was replaced, it is back at the dealership with the same exact problem of not wanting to turn over and start. My car has been there since Friday and it is now Monday, I still have not heard a thing. Anyone have any suggestions?

g_henrys · July 2006

If your battery has been disconnected then the auto up/down feature would be disabled. This goes for the inside switches as well as the auto up/down when you use the key to open or lock your door. To reset, use the inside switch to raise the driver's window all the way up. Release the switch. Then hold it in the same up position (even though the window is already closed) for a couple of seconds. That should do it. Good luck!

new2audi2 · July 2006

I have had this car for 4 1/2 months it has 94,850 mi and this is what's happening:
1. service insp light keeps blinking
2. 3 beeps when start the car
3. LCD bear visual, think it says MRND438 with a thermostat and water looking symbol
4. today after not driving it for 7 weeks when I started it it had a orange circle with a motor and lightining rod in it blinking
5. About 4 times since I bought it, while driving I've experienced a pause in the gear shifting only one time during each drive

Can anyone give me some info on what's going on and what I should do? I don't have an owners manual and I'm afraid to take it to a repair shop or dealer without having some background info.

Thanks

jrfiv · July 2006

I havn't had this exact problem, but mine doesn't want to start with the advance key - press start button and nothing happens. Dealer insists it is a "software problem" - neat.
If I get in and press start and nothing happens, I can open the driver's door, close it again and then it will start.
It is at dealer right now for this "software upgrade." I will let you know....
Maybe you need this II software upgrade?

jrfiv · July 2006

I have had TONS of problems with this car. I leased it (thank goodness) but have had all kinds of trouble. Things like whistles in the doors (took dealer 9 tries to finally fix), new water pump, new brakes, 3 sets of new tires, new parking brake switch, 2 software upgrades, car not starting with advance key, grinding when starting.

Has anyone else had problems with their car? I am on a first name basis with the service advisor. This is my first Audi is this a standard for this car? Everything seems to be very intermittent too - very hard to duplicate problems at dealer.

HELP!

Thanks

liferules · July 2006

Nope. I've had little to no problems with my A6. Seems like you have an anomaly. In fact, it appears the '05 and above Audi's have improved reliability from previous years, not worse.

If you've truly had that many problems, then I suggest you look into lemmon laws :lemon: in your state and talk with the dealership GM about a buy-back.

jrfiv · July 2006

I tried that - the lemon laws in Texas are not very consumer oriented. I spoke with the GM and they didn't have a good solution - one was to put me in a 2006 for $100 more a month and reset lease....not quite what I had in mind. Going to pick up car now - been in shop all week.

klolly · July 2006

For those of you that own this vehicle, I'd love to get a recap of your repairs. I bought it new in April 2001 and it has been in the shop 18 times, a few were for routine maintenance (10K, 20K, etc.) but each time, little things cropped up. My biggest problem appears to be brakes. At 17K miles they resurfaced the first time. Then at 24,500 they replaced pads & resurfaced again (just 6765 miles after the last work). Then I managed to get 12K miles before ANOTHER resurface, then 6325 miles later, resurface number FOUR. At 51,730 they finally replaced the rotors & pads. Now, 9703 miles later, I had to resurface the rears & replace pads only. That strikes me as odd, since I thought front brakes did most of the work. So brakes are a frequent issue, but I think I'm being ripped off. :mad:

One change I am making - the dealership will no longer get my business (now that the warranty is gone). Other quality shops offer lifetime guarantees on brakes/pads, so I'm going to go that route next and see what happens.

Now - I LOVE my car, even with it's dysfunction. In addition to brakes, they've replaced: wipers (3 times, okay, that's not really bad, ours dry out in Vegas), had 3 recalls, several issues with airbag light & engine light. Replaced faulty fuel sender, outer C V boots (twice), engine coolant sensor replaced (twice), replaced motor mounts (twice), replaced steering column, two batteries, d valve cover gaskets, cam seals, tensioner gasket, air conditioning control model, electronic fan, master window switch and rear window lockout switch, left front speaker has never worked right (but when in the shop they can never find the problem) and last but not least, my favorite, the hood strut.

The hood strut is funny as the car was in the shop three times this last month & no one told me it wouldn't keep the hood up. I found out because the battery died & they came to jump me and we couldn't keep the hood up. So much for their walk-around inspections, including under the hood that they claim they do each time the car goes in. :surprise:

In those last three visits, they also didn't notice the brake pads/rotors until the battery died - so between the battery, brakes & hood strut, $633! :sick:

That's a lot of freaking problems for a car that goes in the shop regularly to keep it in good condition.

Since October 2005, I've spent almost $4,000 on repairs and could have spent more had I not argued with the dealership about the repairs in October that included items that had been replaced less than a year prior - another $1,500 worth (the CV Boot). So, it was beneficial to contact Audi Customer Service to complain.

Again, I love my car. :shades: It rides well, the interior is very durable for me (I love my leather), it still looks good, has convenience features such as the fold down seats. I am only posting all this info to hopefully help others & get some feedback to use on my next visit to get repairs.

Even with all this, I'm keeping the car because I do believe it will last for a long time. It has great safety features (oh, it's been wrecked twice, not my fault, both drivers and passengers sides have been hit, passenger side was the worst, but we were pretty much okay). My daughter wants the car so before she gets it, I'll send it to a trusted shop for a very serious inspection.

Hope all this info is helpful for everyone and feel free to email me if you have anything that I can use!

And the new Audi's are really cool - next time, I might lease, which gets me out before things really go bad.

Karol

new2audi2 · July 2006

Well, since I got no help from anyone online, I decided to go under the hood myself. I found oil very low and coolant very low. I filled them and drove for about 100 miles and the lights have gone out. It has been riding well since. I hope this helps someone else.

new2audi2

bumbie · August 2006

My last post was July 10th, I believe. I got the car back July 17 (they had it a week) and Audi service told me that they replaced the wrong relay switch in the ignition the previous time it was in - OK??? Picked it up, Audi service swore up and down it was fixed this time (since May 12, 2006 I have been dealing with this problem of my car not wanting to turn over and start, and when it does start, sounding very sluggish).

So anyways, I notice two days after having the car back the same problem. I was praying it was just a flook, so I drove it a week, it happened about 7 times AGAIN.
I called my Audi service guy July 24, brought it back in July 26 and it is now August 1st. My husband called late last Friday, since we did not hear from anyone at Audi and my service guy told my husband that they have no idea what is wrong and that they have to keep the car over the weekend. Once again no update call and no car.

Audi can duplicate the problem (thank God over and over again), but they have never seen this problem before and have absolutely no idea what is wrong, thus no idea how to fix it.
Be reassured everyone, Audi of N. America is having its data base searched

and the head technician is on it over at N. Scottsdale Audi! I was given that song and dance the last time it was in for a week.
We are purposely not calling the dealership. We think it is better they appear unprofessional and incompetent and they do at this point if we have to pursue the :lemon:. We are going to contact the GM if it goes past the one week mark, which is tomorrow.

Seriously, my car has been in and out of the shop 8 times since I bought it back in November of 2005, brand new. It was in once for the 5K service, 4 times for a loud traveling rattle in the dash, that was finally fixed by putting visible thick black foam against my windshield and the dashboard (I could have done that myself in retrospect), and now 3 times for the mystery ignition problem.
I asked in my previous post if anyone might have a clue what could be the problem, but since Audi has no clue and this is supposedly the first time they have stumbled upon this ignition problem, I think is is safe to assume no one on this forum has a clue.

If anyone has had a similar problem, I do not have advance key, please speak up, I would really really appreciate it :sick:.

Thanks

Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair

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