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2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I'm looking at an E150 van that is in GREAT shape except for it's A/C. The seller was surprised when it didn't work on a test drive. He took it to his usual repairman who found the compressor to be in good shape no leaks in the system. The mechanic told him that the thing needed a recharge because the (refrigerant?) was only at 50%. So they recharged it and now it seems to be working just fine.
so I'm assuming that what leaked must've been freon. But how could it get out of a closed system if there are no leaks?
The A/C on this vehicle has never been recharged. Notwithstanding the fact that it's a 17+ year old GM car, with 86,000 miles, it's possible that it will hold a charge, in which case it would probably be more cost effective to pay the high price for R-12 than to convert to R-134 refrigerant, particularly since this car may be nearing the end of its useful life.
You can get R12 from Ebay sources which state that an EPA license is required, but mostly don't bother to check.
There's still a large supply of R12 available and will be for the foreseeable future.
Any ideas? Thanks.
Or could it be the heater core?
Thanks!
if issues continue, scan the engine to insure you are in the correct temperature range with a scantool... you should be able to get the operating temperature with anything more advanced than a test light.
cycle the lever for the coolant valve to the heater core a few times by hand to kick any junk loose in it.
if you're still having issues, and they aren't issues of the blower motor stops but the air turning cold, you have a vacuum switch, vacuum motor, and/or electronic controller problem. a hand vacuum pump with gauge can really save you tons of time chasing that down.
but so can looking over the vacuum lines, and replacing anything that doesn't want to stay on, or has a flaky-looking end.
you didn't mention what car this is on, nor did your profile... but there are lots of recent stratus posts up there. some GMs in the 90s had issues with the electronic heater controller, to the tune of some $300 bucks a time.
if you're GETTING heat at any point, and not puddles of water as well or steam on the windshield, the core is probably not an issue. flushing the radiator system properly would also take out rust flakes in the core that might be blocking a tube or the outlet pipe, if you haven't done that in 50 years on the car. but I wouldn't suspect crud swirling if you have clean coolant.
1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?
If YES, go to:
2. check the freon level
if GOOD, then:
have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.
If NO compressor engagement, you either have:
1. a bad AC clutch
2. no freon
3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit
If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.
1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?
If YES, go to:
2. check the freon level
if GOOD, then:
have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.
If NO compressor engagement, you either have:
1. a bad AC clutch
2. no freon
3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit
If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.
Shifty the Host
Thanks in advance.
If you don't, you could be low on freon, and there is a pressure switch that prevents AC clutch engagement. You can often by-pass this switch and see if the AC clutch engages. Where this switch is on your car I haven't a clue.
Is there anyone out there who can offer me some advice or a solution?
You might get lucky but you have to check for debris from the seized compressor or you'll be buying another one in a few weeks. You MUST get this metallic debris out of the system.
It's a slim possibility that it's the fan switch itself, but remote since all three of the lower positions don't work.
Jorge Lozano
Anthony
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
need help, i have a beautiful, clean 1993 buick lesabre, the problem is the vent selection which blows air at face level dose not function. when engaged, no air hot or cold comes out of this area, all other vent selections operate fine. any ideals?
thank you
Roy
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
The plan right now is to see how long the current charge lasts (i.e. how slow the leak is) and then either ditch the truck or fix the a/c cheap.
Thanks in advance.
Yes you should probably replace the accumulator and the drier if the system is open and exposed for more than a couple of hours. If you can close it up really fast you might get lucky, but usually the dessicant gets saturated with moisture from outside air and is ruined.
If you remove the compressor and look into the ports (where the hoses go) and you see debris and bits of metal, then you have to flush the entire AC system and also replace the expansion valve.
Some people will tell you that you can replace the shaft seal in the compressor (probably the source of your leak) but the problem here is that the seal might have gone out for reasons related to compressor wear, --- so the seal won't last.
What causes the a/c to plug in one spot and not in another? Should they be checking that as part of the regular maintenance? If not, how often should we be checking it?
Thanks!