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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars

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Comments

  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    there's a fault in the fan mechanism that you can only here when it's turning max rpm.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • cutehumorcutehumor Member Posts: 137
    does anyone know where this a/c pressure switch is located on this car? car was blowing hot air. took to shop and mechanic said there was no leak, refrigerant full, that a/c pressure switch was loose. he tightened it and the car blew cold air for two weeks. now it's blowing hot air again. if someone can pinpoint it out to me so I can tighten it, I'd appreciate it. I've searched the net long and hard and have gotten no responses. this doesn't seem like a common part sold in auto parts store, but I found a pic of it. referred as a/c refrigerant pressure sensor. http://198.208.187.182/internet/PartImage.jsp?mfgname=ACDELCO&amp- ;prodlinecd=15&acpartnbr=15-5884
  • joblo1942joblo1942 Member Posts: 1
    My A/C does not work all the time,and when it does it doesn't work past 3 on the fan switch.I can see the A/C light switches on and off.It won't take anymore refigerant.
  • fermlferml Member Posts: 4
    I don't know much about A/C... hence the post.

    I'm looking at an E150 van that is in GREAT shape except for it's A/C. The seller was surprised when it didn't work on a test drive. He took it to his usual repairman who found the compressor to be in good shape no leaks in the system. The mechanic told him that the thing needed a recharge because the (refrigerant?) was only at 50%. So they recharged it and now it seems to be working just fine.

    so I'm assuming that what leaked must've been freon. But how could it get out of a closed system if there are no leaks?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh, they all leak to some extent. Probably his "wand" didn't pick up a leak because it was so slight. If you're going to recharge, it's best to replace the "O" rings in the compressor hoses and wherever else you can easily get to the various seals.
  • mminerbimminerbi Member Posts: 88
    Can someone advise if there is a shop in or near West LA that still carries R-12 refrigerant? I'm trying to locate some R-12 for a 1987 car that needs a recharge.

    The A/C on this vehicle has never been recharged. Notwithstanding the fact that it's a 17+ year old GM car, with 86,000 miles, it's possible that it will hold a charge, in which case it would probably be more cost effective to pay the high price for R-12 than to convert to R-134 refrigerant, particularly since this car may be nearing the end of its useful life.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    It's strange, I keep hearing about R12 being hard to get but I find it everywhere without trouble in the San Francisco Bay Area. Why don't you contact one of the many "classic car dealers" in the LA area (Yellow Pages? Internet Search?) and ask them where they are getting their R12. I'm sure they aren't converting 1955 Cadillacs to R134.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I thought it was illegal to sell R12 to anyone without an EPA license. I don't see it anywhere in Southern Cal. area, but the "replacements" are easy to find, along with R134.
    You can get R12 from Ebay sources which state that an EPA license is required, but mostly don't bother to check.
    There's still a large supply of R12 available and will be for the foreseeable future.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well either all the shops I know have licenses or they are all illegal, I don't know. But it's incredibly easy to find. I'm just surprised anyone's having trouble unless L.A. is really tougher on this than the SF Bay Area, which seems unlikely since we now require smog tests on a dyno.
  • rikoriko Member Posts: 1
    AC is not blowing cold air. I have checked and there is both freon and pressure in the system. The compressor is not kicking in because it is not getting power. When a current is connected to it from the positive post of the battery it comes on. Someone mentioned it could be a bad low pressure switch. any other ideas out there?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Could be low on freon even if there's some in the system.
  • konekone Member Posts: 19
    97 nissan pathfinder with auto climate control. 1) auto climate control does not work at all, it's all hot or all cold regardless of the temp setting. 2) When using manually, hot/cold dial does not control temp correctly. when dial is completely turned to cold (blue), it's all cold as it should be but all i have to do is turn it 2 notches towards red (still well within all blue area) and the heat comes on full blast. it's not tempered with any cold. so basically i have 2 notches at all cold or all the other nothces at all hot. i'm not concerned with spending a lot of $ to get the auto climate control working but i would like to at least get manual to work.

    Any ideas? Thanks.
  • poppiepoppie Member Posts: 9
    I was wondering what could be the problem with my heat. When I first turn the heat on it blows out hot air but then it turns cool (not cold). I was wondering if I would just need a new thermostat because my temp does not go up to the half way mark since I had the radiator replaced?

     

    Or could it be the heater core?

     

    Thanks!
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    if the radiator was somewhat clogged before replacement, I would expect the temp to be lower on the car. from jiggling things around, enough junk could have been kicked up (especially if the old coolant was reused out of the bucket) to gunk the thermostat. I'd replace it just out of spite, they're cheap parts, with an OEM. use a new gasket. pour the coolant you had to drain slowly into another bucket, or through cheesecloth, and if there was gunk in it, flush and refill the whole system BEFORE you replace the stat.

     

    if issues continue, scan the engine to insure you are in the correct temperature range with a scantool... you should be able to get the operating temperature with anything more advanced than a test light.

     

    cycle the lever for the coolant valve to the heater core a few times by hand to kick any junk loose in it.

     

    if you're still having issues, and they aren't issues of the blower motor stops but the air turning cold, you have a vacuum switch, vacuum motor, and/or electronic controller problem. a hand vacuum pump with gauge can really save you tons of time chasing that down.

     

    but so can looking over the vacuum lines, and replacing anything that doesn't want to stay on, or has a flaky-looking end.

     

    you didn't mention what car this is on, nor did your profile... but there are lots of recent stratus posts up there. some GMs in the 90s had issues with the electronic heater controller, to the tune of some $300 bucks a time.

     

    if you're GETTING heat at any point, and not puddles of water as well or steam on the windshield, the core is probably not an issue. flushing the radiator system properly would also take out rust flakes in the core that might be blocking a tube or the outlet pipe, if you haven't done that in 50 years on the car. but I wouldn't suspect crud swirling if you have clean coolant.
  • dmcelweedmcelwee Member Posts: 1
    i'm having problems with water leaking but can't find where it's coming from and the heater is not working it's a 2002 altima
  • pipebendpipebend Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Ford Econoline 150 van, the heater works but the air conditioner does not. I had it worked on before leaving Pa. for Florida so i didn't notice that the air didn't work until i got into Florida Does it work on a vacuum?I was thinking that maybe they didn't put the vacuum hose back on.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Have your cooling system "pressure tested". That'll find the leak.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    first thing you have to determine:

    1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?

    If YES, go to:

    2. check the freon level

    if GOOD, then:

    have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.

    If NO compressor engagement, you either have:

    1. a bad AC clutch
    2. no freon
    3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit

    If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    first thing you have to determine:

    1. Is the A/C compressor switching on (engaging its clutch) when you activate the A/C controls?

    If YES, go to:

    2. check the freon level

    if GOOD, then:

    have the ducting doors checked for, as you say, possible vacuum leaks or cable problems.

    If NO compressor engagement, you either have:

    1. a bad AC clutch
    2. no freon
    3. blown fuse in AC compressor clutch circuit

    If AC clutch works, you have freon, and all ducting is working, and you still have no cold air, it's probably an expansion valve problem.
  • moneypitmoneypit Member Posts: 1
    Air continues to come out of the air vents when either the heater or the A/C is turned off. Could this be a plenum door that isn't closing due to either a vacuum leak or a defective blower switch, or????
  • largolargo Member Posts: 1
    The heater, a/c and blower work most of the time. But, at times the heat or a/c stop blowing from the ductwork. The blower is still working and changes speeds but hardly any air exits the dash. The dealer said it was a vacuum problem and supposedly fixed it. A week and half later air stopped exiting the dash and later that night started working again. I took it back in and the dealer said the car just needed to warm up. The car was driven 90 miles and the windows iced up even though the heater was blowing on high, but no air was coming out. I took it in a 3rd time (it's a charm) and they told me they would have to take out the dash and that would cost at least $900 and up to $1400, depending on what they ran into. Is the dealer missing something or do I need a new car?
  • canongate1canongate1 Member Posts: 13
    MY 97 BMW 3 SERIES A/C CAME ON BY ITSELF I ATTEMPTED TO TURN IT OFF AND THE SCREEN WAS BARLEY LIT. THE LIGHTS ON THE SCREEN WENT OFF AND ALL THE CONTROLS DID NOT WORK HEAT,DEFROST & A/C ETC.. ALL THOUGH THE A/C KEPT RUNNING. IT DID THIS FOR SEVERAL TRIPS AND THEN SUDDENLY WORKED AGAIN. IT HAS DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES. ANY IDEAS? THANKS!
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    I too have a slow freon leak in my 2000 Jimmy. Have had it recharged twice in 9 months and no leak has been found. However ever since the latest recharge I am hearing a distinctive gurgling sound from inside the dash, usually when I accelerate. It sounds exactly like bubbling running water. Could this have something to do with the A/C system ?
  • vhanveyvhanvey Member Posts: 1
    My 93 Crwn Vic with 63k miles has developed a problem over the last year whereas occasionally, regardless of the outside temperature or the setting on the Warmer-Cooler slide control on the htr/ac, unbearable heat comes thru the heat/ac/defrost vents. The only recourse is to move the heat/ac/defrost control to OFF. When the car is restarted, the heater/ac may or may not function properly. The local Ford dealer's service department GUESSES that a valve and control in the dash needs replacing at a cost of $856 due to the labor to take out part of the dash. I'm not thrilled about paying that much, and certainly not happy about the prospect that it might not be the problem. Any Input would be appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Let me ask some experts about that.

    Shifty the Host
  • tmaceytmacey Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Taurus GL Wagon. Can someone tell me where to get a good electrical schematic? I lost the Flash to Pass function the Underhood light and Temp Control all at the same time. I have a blown fuse, number escapes me at the moment. I need a schematic to trace the location of the fault.
  • auddie13auddie13 Member Posts: 2
    Hi, i have a 1993 buick lesabre,my problem is with my a/c, when my car is in idle the a/c works,but when i drive it ,it gets hot air,the cold air seems to disappear. What can be causing this. please help
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    low freon or possibly a bad expansion valve.
  • supergrasssupergrass Member Posts: 3
    Recently my car ('97 cavalier LS) has started making a clicking noise whenever the fan is running (either with or without A/C). The clicking noise changes in frequency according to fan speed. Is this possibly a worn bearing in the fan?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep, that's a good guess...the fan blades are moving in and out with car acceleration or braking because the shaft is loose on the bearing.
  • koby01koby01 Member Posts: 2
    01 Navigator- ac stopped working. heater and fan seems to be working correctly. Noticed that AC pump is not engaging when the ac is on.. need help w/ troubleshooting. were do I start?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Get a test light and see if you get current to the AC clutch at the compressor when you turn on the AC switch on the dash---ENGINE NOT RUNNING!!!!

    If you don't, you could be low on freon, and there is a pressure switch that prevents AC clutch engagement. You can often by-pass this switch and see if the AC clutch engages. Where this switch is on your car I haven't a clue.
  • dsm1mdhdsm1mdh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Bonneville and my A/C compressor seized. In addition to the compressor, what other parts should I replace?
  • kenz55kenz55 Member Posts: 1
    The clutch on my compressor is only running for 1 to 2 seconds for every 10 to 15 seconds that ac in on. At first it didn't work at all, then I checked the level and the gauge read 0. I put in only about 2 ounces of r134 and the gauge went up to about 35 lbs. of pressure and that is when the compressor clutch started working the way I described.
    Is there anyone out there who can offer me some advice or a solution?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you had a seizure of the compressor, you may have debris in the system and this will create havoc with your new compressor. I'm afraid you're going to have to inspect the a/c lines and if you see debris in the little filter screens where the lines hook up to the return side of the compressor, or if you flush the hoses and debris comes out, you have to replace just about everything or at least take it out and clean it out. Minimum would be a complete cleaning and a new dryer and expansion valve.

    You might get lucky but you have to check for debris from the seized compressor or you'll be buying another one in a few weeks. You MUST get this metallic debris out of the system.
  • valtuckervaltucker Member Posts: 1
    when i turn on the air in my jeep... first... it makes this whitsling sound for a few seconds (when i put it on high) and then it will stop... and sometimes (only when i have the a/c blowing...if i roll down the windows, and hit the gas, it makes this high-pitched sqealing sound... and after all that... it will blow cold for a minute or two and then blow hot. any advise???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    First think I'd do is check for how much freon you have in the system.
  • gmann2005gmann2005 Member Posts: 2
    The AC/Heater fan in the cabin will only blow on it's highest setting - the first 3 settings don't work at all. First thing I will do will be to check the fuse - is this reasonable that the highest setting would work but no other setting and is fuse replacement the first option I should check?
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    It's usually the blower motor resistor.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I have to agree, it's most likely the blower motor resistor assembly. I don't know for sure where it is on a Caravan, but it's a good guess that it's in the plenum somewhere before the heater core, so the incoming air can pass over the resistors (or resistive elements usually these days) and keep them cool when operating a lower speeds. When you have the fan set at max speed typically the DC power is connected directly to the fan via a relay and the resistor assembly is mostly out of the circuit.
    It's a slim possibility that it's the fan switch itself, but remote since all three of the lower positions don't work.
  • jlozanojlozano Member Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Jeep GC as well. 2 inexpensive solutions. First you can drill the beam on the firewall. drill about 4 inches from the firewall. Drill another small hole to shine a light . Now you can try to unclog with a wire. Second choice is to drill a small hole on the inside on the drain housing. Try a small hole that can help you push the clog out of the drain. When finished seal the hole.

    Jorge Lozano

    :)
  • onewayoneway Member Posts: 2
    Tonight the buttons in my T & C went dead. I could not use the rear wiper, defroster, air re-circ, or compressor for AC. Also, I could not change the air flow face to feet to front defroster. Anyine have any clue what's up? I am open to all replies in posting & e-mail. My e-mail address is a.maffea@verizon.net. Thanks!

    Anthony
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    Check your fuses, it sounds like an entire circuit went dead.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • smilfrordsmilfrord Member Posts: 1
    hello friends,

    need help, i have a beautiful, clean 1993 buick lesabre, the problem is the vent selection which blows air at face level dose not function. when engaged, no air hot or cold comes out of this area, all other vent selections operate fine. any ideals?

    thank you
  • 05blackquest05blackquest Member Posts: 3
    Our 2005 Nissan Quest has had A/C problems from day 2 and Nissan has tried to remedy the situation. The first time we were told that the freon was improperly filled(air pressure not level...moisture in the line?) This was causing the A/C to constantly hiss and then it stopped cooling. Now we have the same problem. After the repairs it worked great for a week (38degree) air. Now, it is acting up again. I have contacted Nissan again and am awaiting their call. I was wondering if anyone out there is experiencing the same problems. I love my van and I hope this is a minor nuisance that can be fixed "permanently". I will post their remedy, if any, once they do something about it. The van is only 7 months old.

    Roy
  • andys120andys120 Member Posts: 23,370
    your Freon was improperly filled, find another repair facility. It is illegal to use Freon in a 2005 automobile.

    2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93

  • sockpuppet1969sockpuppet1969 Member Posts: 308
    1998 Blazer. No a/c this spring (did not use all winter). Had it recharged and dye put in. Re-check a week later showed a leak in the back of the compressor. My mechanic estimated $800 to fix. Is replacing the compressor something I could do myself without too much trouble and basic tools? Do I need to replace the accumulator also?

    The plan right now is to see how long the current charge lasts (i.e. how slow the leak is) and then either ditch the truck or fix the a/c cheap.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The problem is how you will capture the AC that is in the system. You can't just let it out into the air as that is dangerous to you and us. If your shop can safely drain it, then yeah you could probably do the compressor, but I'd have the shop hook up the lines and recharge the system.

    Yes you should probably replace the accumulator and the drier if the system is open and exposed for more than a couple of hours. If you can close it up really fast you might get lucky, but usually the dessicant gets saturated with moisture from outside air and is ruined.

    If you remove the compressor and look into the ports (where the hoses go) and you see debris and bits of metal, then you have to flush the entire AC system and also replace the expansion valve.

    Some people will tell you that you can replace the shaft seal in the compressor (probably the source of your leak) but the problem here is that the seal might have gone out for reasons related to compressor wear, --- so the seal won't last.
  • beatonbeaton Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Plym Grand Voyager (120,000+ miles) has a plugged a/c in the front (but not the back). The Dealership also said the evaporator needs to be replaced. Cost:$1,200! Does this seem reasonable? We service the van regularly there due to the many hiway miles we put on it annualy.

    What causes the a/c to plug in one spot and not in another? Should they be checking that as part of the regular maintenance? If not, how often should we be checking it?

    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    depends on whether your car uses two evaporators or not for front and rear air heat exchange. But if your system has only one evaporator, and if indeed you get ice cold AC in the rear, then the dealer's diagnosis makes no sense.
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