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Comments
If your wif... ah, I mean the unmentioned family member, managed to high center the Forester with one wheel off the ground it's very likely it would be stuck as well.
Even on a newer scoob with a rear LSD, if you float a front tire you're probably stuck. The viscous center differential can't hold enough torque to move the vehicle when one driveshaft is seeing infinite slip.
-Colin
Maybe we should get a VDC just to cover all types of conditions. ;-)
-juice
Ken
Ross
I sold the car they were on shortly after so I have no knowledge of how the two remaining continentals have held up, I hope this info is of some help in addressing your problem, ask your tire installer to check for flat spots on the tires, if they have, balancing will not cure the problem they have to be replaced.
Cheers Pat.
While there I asked the guy who serviced the car if he had heard about the brake shim fix for brake squeals. I also mentioned the reprogramming of the ECM for the cold start problem some of us have. He had heard of neither of them, and didn't know about any shims or ECM problems. He asked where I had heard about them- "On the Internet??"
He said he had seen no service bulletins on either one.
Maybe I'll print a few posts from the board and bring them in for him when I switch over to Redline for the tranny. Or get him to subscribe to the board.
Since the shims are to eliminate an "annoyance" and are not for a safety defect or for a mechanical breakdown concern (service program), I doubt that there will be any type of notification program (recall).
Just let your dealer know that you want them and they should be taken care of at no cost.
Remember, this is for a specific noise concern, not a brake problem, so make sure your dealer has the opportunity to diagnose the situation before you ask for the shims. Safety first!
Thanks!
Patti
I have the brake squeek on my 2001 VDC. It really doesn't annoy me much, but it is loud. Someone commented that the shims will or might actually shorten the brake life. Can you enlighten me as to what the shims really do?
anybody,
I have had to add a small amount of coolant a couple of times over 6000 miles to keep the level between low and high. Is this normal? I don't do that on my other cars, but the Subie plenum seems to be pretty small; it only takes a cup or so to move the level from low to high.
Thanks,
Mike
Do you notice any leaks? Any wet spots under the engine in the AM?
-juice
-mike
Ken, you are correct; thanks for catching that. That's what I get for rushing. Apologies for the misinformation.
To repeat Ken: Piston slap was limited to the 2.5L DOHC Phase I engines (MY97-99 on the OB, MY98 on the Forester and RS) using the shortened (aka. skirtless) piston skirts.
..Mike
..Mike
Probably make the 5-speed into my auto-Xer, maybe even a trailer queen, and the AT as a daily driver.
-mike
I'm hardly an expert on the subject, but I did help a buddy do a valve job on his Acura once, and removing those heads was a simple job (of course it's much easier since the heads stick up in the engine bay).
Tougher access will create more work for you.
-juice
Dennis
Frank
-mike
And if I bought another used car, I think I'd get an SVX.
-juice
Ken
http://www.gsp9700.com/
HTH
Greg in IN
-juice
I have not heard any complaints that the shims caused a shorter brake life, based on the vehicles we tested them out on.
There is already a shim on the pad, this is just a different designed shim that does not cause the harmonic noise.
Patti
After pulling the plugs, the dealer decided to replace both cylinder heads. After a few days, the car was still car was consuming / burning oil at high rate - those still no sign of a leak - just missing oil. The dealer last week replaced the engine block! So far, so good on the oil problem. (they also replaced the clutch assembly and flywheel and installed a new radio - which suffered from a Big Gulp/ cup holder mishap.) The car is now back and we said goodbye to the cushy free rental.
Only difference is now the car seems to get worse gas mileage (19 mpg vs. 25 mpg before the engine work, and it doesn't seems as peppy). I've heard that this is fairly common and that the car will "rebound" though the mechanic thinks it's our imagination.
BTW, how much oil were you burning before the repair?
Ken
How are the emissions now? I also wonder what your oil consumption was at it's worst. I am having oil consumption problems as well. Maybe you have seen some of my posts recently on this for forum.
It sounds odd that the engine block (rings) wasn't ruled out as a source of the problem before the valves were replaced. It is possible that both were at fault but unlikely.
Do you know the results of the compression test of the engine now? They should be within 14-15 lbs. of each other. Some rebuilds are better than others. Was the work done at your local dealership or by Subaru. In other words; if the engine was rebuilt at the factory and then put back in th car at the dealership, I would feel better about tolerances. But it doesn't sound like this is the case.
I have a 2000 Forester with 31k miles on it and I am dealing with a 1 quart per 2000 mile consumption issue now and it looks like I am getting some results from SOA. I am glad to see that they did try to fix your car. Hopefully it will be fine and you will get the gas-mileage back up were it should be.
Scott
Please read my post on the VDC board (it is not really a maintenance or repair issue and belongs on that board) but is something that needs to be brought to your attention.
thanks-------- DUKEPHOTO
Remember, you gotta break here in again. Mileage will be about 2mpg worse until you do. Keep it under 4k rpm, you have a brand new engine.
-juice
Do you know the results of the compression test of the engine now? They should be within 14-15 lbs. of each other. Some rebuilds are better than others. Was the work done at your local dealership or by Subaru. In other words; if the engine was rebuilt at the factory and then put back in th car at the dealership, I would feel better about tolerances. But it doesn't sound like this is the case.
I too would opine that most dealers cannot put together the shortblock as well as is done in Gunma. Some are exceptionally talented, and I can't imagine any dealer that wouldn't have at least one mechanic very competent in such matters... but again, I have enormous respect for the Japanese machinists on the assembly line.
Regarding the original post about mileage and pep, surely you're going easy on the engine and allowing it to break in? And I don't mean just following the letter of the manual and not the intent-- when they say keep it under 4k, they don't mean it's OK to go wide-open throttle from idle to 4,000 and then back off... high load should be avoided too. (WOT, towing, severe mountain roads, high speed)
-Colin
That thing took more than 3 quarts. I had to go back and buy more. The Miata only held a little under 2. Then again, the 626 houses the front diffy, while the Miata has a seperate, rear diffy.
-juice
Of course you could always try a 3rd party brake pad with a different content.
Greg
So, my question is should I stay stock or go aftermarket when the inevitable end comes? I'm a little wary of the stock clutch given my experience so I'm leaning towards something like a Clutchmasters Stage 1. I don't need a heavy-duty racing clutch nor do I want a heavy clutch pedal feel -- just something that will last a little longer. Any suggestions?
Ken
My chatter has been much better ever since the end of last winter, but if it comes back in force when it gets cold I will finally install my Clutchnet 6 puck clutch... got it from B-Spec USA around March but the stock has been behaving so well I've not bothered. I sure don't make enough power to necessitate it!
-Colin
So what did you do to make the chatter go away? A little slip-induced glazing perhaps? ;-)
Ken
Have it looked at.
Patti, can you help?
Also, does anyone know where the light adjustment screws are for the current generation Legacy/Outback headlamps? Could't tell without dismantling the unit. Which volume of the service manuals covers the electrical wiring such as the headlamps. Is there a grommet in the firewall specifically for running your own accessories through?
Thanks!
Hugo - the squeel that this shim addresses is different than what I remember about your's. Also, this was something we were hearing about in the Legacy models with some frequency. I'll double check your case and see if anything can be done on Monday.
Thanks!
Patti
Ken - Any idea what post your headlight comparison is? I would be interested in seeing it again because I'm considering upgrading my wife's OB lights as well.
Dennis
Vision Plus vs. Stock:
Vision Plus vs. Hella Premium:
<img src="http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1013602&a=7966143&p=33242600">
Dennis
Most definetly yes. I don't think the photos do the bulbs justice. The Vision Pluses are noticeably brighter and illuminate farther than regular H4s. The beam cut-off seem to be sharpter too. Those, in conjunction with my fogs, have been great for driving through the Sierras on moonless nights.
Ken
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Oops, I think this should've been under Modifications. Oh well, at least we're not discussing Potato recipes. ;-)
Dennis
Your wife's OB uses the same mediocre HB(?)s as in my '98 OB, and I don't think you would get the same result Ken got. Hence, the HID route which I took.
-Dave
Dennis
I bought a pair of "xenon gas charged" bulbs and they looked to be brighter but still can't compare with my mom's OBS. Them OEM H4 threw better light than the OB's OEM or the new bulbs I'd bought.
Drove my OB on the Palisade (night) a few weeks ago and I think I out ran the HB5 @ 50mph :-)
-Dave