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Comments
For now, I added Dry Gas again, got a full gas tank from expensive but supposedly good local station (Chevron) and am waiting to see if CEL will disappear...
Silvius has almost 42K miles now, and he's not even 2 years old yet! Between my commute and trip to the mountains, I put on ca. 700 mi/week.
I guess Silvius simply got heart-broken, after Ross has decided to separate with Rufus.
The rear ones are pretty close as well, but are slightly smaller, the edge of the carpeted mat shows underneath the rear mats, where it does not on the front mats.
They have a nice lip or rim, so water should stay on the mat and not run off. I think the nice rugged look really suits my Outback.
The dealer was probably trying to sell you something other than the Subaru Legacy mats.
Also, when I ordered, the mats were supposedly not in stock or backordered, but I got them quite quickly anyway.
Cynthia
So the leather wrapped job comes as a whole knob with the leather around it then? I was worried it might be like a kit where you do the wrapping yourself.
Cynthia
I wanted the Subwoffer...they had it for 175.00 great price! I said great I will send the 200.00 in Subie Points that I have. I was told I would have to spend 200.00 in parts to be able to use the coupons. I can't think of what I need to make up the difference. The person on the phone was unwilling (understandably so) to help me "find" the right amount of parts to make up the difference. Kind of a hassle.
Chuck
In December of 2001, we developed a burning smell from the front of the car. When describing the symptoms over the phone the dealer correctly diagnosed the problems as a leaking front engine crank oil seal. He told me this was quite common and after replacement we could expect the seal to last 100,000 miles or more because the dealer installed seal lasts longer than the factory seal. Immediately following this work we heard a constant squeal from the engine, which was diagnosed as a defective alternator. Having just spent over $400.00 on the car, I now faced spending another $250.00.
What I anticipated from Subaru was well over 100K trouble free miles. The replacement alternator, a factory authorized rebuilt was defective from Day One. The squeal was worse than the original. Once again, I brought the car back in for more service. Again the diagnosis was the alternator, which was replaced under the parts warranty. Within a week the car died in traffic on a very busy highway stranding me with an out of town guest. We had it towed to the dealer: diagnosis- defective alternator cable.
I had 57,000 trouble free miles. The warranty is 60,000 miles. At 63,000 miles the car began to fall apart. I exceeded the Subaru recommended service interval by 100%.
In the first 70,000 miles I changed the oil 18 times.
Not one month later while on a vacation trip, the car stopped running stranding my wife on the left shoulder on a very busy 75 MPH interstate at 11:00 PM 500 miles from home. Taken to a local dealer the diagnosis was a rod through the block. Destroyed engine.
Needless to say, I am not happy. I had anticipated reliability equivalent to my 30 years of experience with similar vehicles. What I have is a car that has cost me $3,300.00 in repairs when I consider it to be barely broken in. I selected this car based on its reputation for reliability. Myth: A fiction or half-truth, especially one that forms part of an ideology. A popular belief or story that has become associated with a person, institution, or occurrence, especially one considered to illustrate a cultural ideal
Looking at the Edmunds website, I see numerous mentions of the odor that presaged the complete failure of my engine. I hope I can warn those Subaru owners before they learn the same expensive lesson I learned.
The other stuff is unfortunate but statistically has to happen to someone. Can't blame you for quoting a dictionary definition of "myth" but you can't blame everyone else here for not selling their Subarus immediately or avoiding buying another.
-Colin
Thanks in advance...
-Colin
I too have 42K on my 2000 Outback. For past few months the CEL (steady) have been going on and off. I have attrtibuted it to the fuel cap seal. I noticed that this started happening in colder weather, and recently, since it has warmed up it has stopped.
I am reasoning that when the seal is cold and stiffer, it does not seal as well, which might be causing a small vacuum leak. When warm the seal is soft and works well. I plan to replace my fuel cap closer to the fall to see if this hypothesis is correct. Seals to deteriorate and I think the Sube happens to be pretty sensitive to a loose cap (bad seal). I too am religious about tightening the cap down well.
Does anyone know if the fuel cap seal has an effect on the fuel gauge reading as well? Because at the same time the CEL was coming on, the fuel gauge was intermittantly reading empty, especially below 1/2 tank. Now it is fine, with the wamrmer weather here.
-Howard
p.s. no dealer will give you change for those coupons, they have to submit a PO for the full amt.
Cynthia: the knob comes ready to screw right on there.
-juice
-mike
-juice
-Dave
-mike
-juice
While going through the MY2000 service manual, I came across the gear ratios for the Legacy and OB. Here are the calculated rpm at 70 mph in highest gear:
Legacy L w/250/60R15
5MT 3000 (final drive 3.9)......4EAT 2800 (final drive 4.111)
Legacy GT w/250/55R16
5MT 3150 (final drive 4.111)......4EAT 3000 (final drive 4.444)
OB w/225/60R16
5MT 3250 (final drive 4.111)......4EAT 2800 (final drive 4.444)
Fifth gear in the GT is 0.78 vs. the OB at 0.871 so even with larger diameter tires, the OB needs to rev higher.
The numbers match what I get with my Legacy 5MT. I'm curious if it matches your experience or if I've miscalculated somewhere.
Jim
Thanks to Dave for helping get it back together last week!
-mike
You're welcome
But Zephyr did most of the work with you, and I did most of the hanging around yapping some with your buddies
Would had attended the the AutoX to watch your XT6 in action, but over slept. So spent most of the day cleaning out the WRX OEM rims for the OBS.
-Dave
I'll try the wife's car at 70. 3000rpm is a nice and round number, easy to remember. I recall that it is very quiet at that speed.
-juice
(I posted this finding also in Subaru Forester forum).
Keep those gas tanks above 1/4 full, to prevent condensation in the tank.
-juice
-Brian
Oxygenated gas is HIGHLY susceptable to absorbing water. It forms corrosive substances when it does so.
Anyway, everything you have in Cali is oxygenated so there's no escape for you. I'd run a bottle of fuel system cleaner through the next tankful to be sure everything is OK.
-Colin
I'm not affiliated with the dealer, nor do I work for Subaru; but if you live in the Baltimore/D.C. area, check out Russell Subaru in Catonsville. I've had pretty good service there and the sales staff are great to talk with. (I spent about an hour just shooting the breeze with those folks--no sales pitch or pressure--just talked about Subaru vs. other car makers).
Michael
I believe different brands of gas in CA use different oxygenates. I believe Chevron stopped MTBE and is now on ethanol. I don't know if that will make a difference.
Ken
-juice
-juice
-Colin
Jon
-juice
I'm thinking that if I can do this it may save me a lot of money.
Thanks for the help.
Years ago (I think Consumers???) did an oil comparison. One of their findings was that wide range oils often didn't quite live up to their claims. They were OK on the cold pour tests, but the wider the range, the more often they failed the hot viscosity tests. I figured that 10 was fine for summer cold starts, but that the 10w30 was more likely to live up to the "30" part when the July temperatures peak. Any thoughts???
Steve
That's absolutely correct. What the chart and CR didn't tell you though was that a synthetic 5w30 will whoop [non-permissible content removed] in any temperature range over a mineral 10w30.
Synthetic 5w30 vs. 10w30 though isn't that big of a deal. At that point if a synthetic 5w30 isn't going to cut it for you, it's probably time to step up to a 40 weight, like Mobil 0w40. (It exists, just expensive and hard to find.)
-Colin
After driving the car for about 8 hours (I drive a lot) accelerating causes the entire car to violently shake. It doesn't shake while coasting nor does it shake in neutral but the problem is more pronounced when accelerating up a hill.
To me that sounds like a transmission problem, but the first dealer I brought the car to said they couldn't reproduce the problem (I had to leave the car at a dealer in Ohio and get a rental car as I was in the middle of a cross country trip from Philadelphia to LA) and the second dealer in Philly insists that all the car needs is a tune-up.
The car has 130K miles on it and I was nearly ready to trade it for a WRX but I'd like to know what the problem really is.
-Vance
-mike
After driving the car for about 8 hours (I drive a lot) accelerating causes the entire car to violently shake. It doesn't shake while coasting nor does it shake while reving the engine in neutral but the problem is more pronounced when accelerating up a hill.
To me that sounds like a transmission problem, but the first dealer I brought the car to said they couldn't reproduce the problem (I had to leave the car at a dealer in Ohio and get a rental car as I was in the middle of a cross country trip from Philadelphia to LA) and the second dealer in Philly insists that all the car needs is a tune-up.
The car has 130K miles on it and I was nearly ready to trade it for a WRX but I'd like to know what the problem really is.
-Vance
If the engine just needed a tune-up I would think that the car would still shake when revving the engine in neutral.
-Vance
Kinda like running on a zero friction or low friction tread mill v. a higher friction one.
-mike
Flemington's service price is a little cheaper I believe, even with platinum plugs.
-Dennis
If the engine just needed a tune-up I would think that the car would still shake when revving the engine in neutral.
-Vance
I had the tune up done, so I guess I can take the car on a trip this weekend and see what happens.
Vance
If it's an auto I still say the tranny is the problem. Time to trade it in! ;-)
-juice
-Colin
Steve