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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    With today's engine electronics, a bit of caution in randomly picking plugs du jour is in order. Don't get sucked into the neato ads with lightning flashing in the background and the Escort beating the Corvette crap. The plugs in your vehicle were matched to its engine in terms of length of electrode, resistance, heat range and other factors. Some of the newer multi point plugs (splitfires, triple electrodes, etc) can cause electrical pulses the sensitive electronics interpret as a misfire and the like.

    Personally, I'd stick with the NGKs named in your owner's manual. Truth be told, there's really no measurable difference in performance from a spark plug. If it's clean and in good shape, a spark is a spark. Don't tell me the special plugs have a hotter or faster spark - it's all up to the power coming through the plug wire and the spark plug cannot change this.

    Save your money for better oil, or something else...

    IdahoDoug
  • joaynjoayn Member Posts: 2
    Thanks so much for your answers! I'll try having the wheels retorqued to 70 ft lbs, then if the problem remains, I'll follow Patti's advice.
    :) Joayn
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Good points, Doug. Electricity usually sparks at the most convenient point. Multiple electrodes will not necessarily have multiple sparks!

    The same goes for "hotter" plugs. All that means is that there's less of a heat sink to help remove heat. Therefore, the temperature of the plug is higher. It has nothing to do with the spark.

    Jim
  • lcklcklcklck Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I have a '96 Legacy wagon. The light illuminating the LCD display on the radio has burned out. I inquired at the dealer and he said they have no parts and I should buy a new radio (at $900.00). Well, that's a very good answer for the dealer, but it didn't help me much.

    I have taken the radio out, and it has no manufacturer name on it. I need the circuit board which holds the LCD and the little LEDs that light up the front.

    Does anyone know who makes the radios, or where I might get parts for such. OR where I might buy some of the LEDs which I could solder onto the board to fix this thing!!

    Thanks

    LCK
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    A couple months ago, I spent around $170 for an upper line Pioneer AM/FM/CD player and an adapter for the wiring harness in my '97. By the time you get done messing around with your stock radio, you'll spend $30 and a lot of time/hassle to have only the original radio in it. Personally, I'd consider this upgrade option over repairing the stock radio. You could get lesser models (still with CD/AM/FM) for a little over $100. Or, you might call a few salvage yards who'll probably sell you an original radio for around $50. Unless you're real handy with a soldering iron, reconsider trying a repair.

    As for the dealer, that's just plain stupidity on his part. Ask him if he'd spend $900 on a factory radio if it were his car. You could get one of the finest audiophile level systems installed in your car for that.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's great mileage for the H6. It's really geared for cruising speeds.

    -juice
  • ruralsubieruralsubie Member Posts: 2
    Check Engine light came on at about 32,000 miles. Dealer replaced the Air Assist Injector Solenoid under warranty.

    Is this a common problem? I did some research on edmunds and i-club but did not find much.

    sjs
  • flasksflasks Member Posts: 14
    My ONLY fault with the Soobie which might be normal (at least I hope so) is that when I start a cold engine it seems to roll over 2 or 3 times before starting and then it comes right up to proper warm up RPM. If the engine is at normal operating temperature it starts immediately. My past experience was with a Ford Ranger and a Ford Explorer (took me awhile to "get it"), anyhow, both of those vehicles started instantly when cold. Am I wrong in assuming my VDC should start immediately when cold like the others I just mentioned? ..all help appreciated. Thanks all, Don
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    This is a symptom of a fuel injection system that's got a seal leak somewhere. Normally, the high pressures of the system are available for starting still hours later. With the leak pressures will drop and must be repressurized before the injectors fire. It's a simple and cheap test called a "leak down' test. They put the equipment on the system, fire up the car, note the pressure and shut it off. Then they go to lunch and if the pressure is holding this is not the problem. Try it.

    IdahoDoug
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Is to turn the key to the "on" position for 5 seconds before turning over the key. This will allow the fuel pump to pressurize the line before starting.

    -mike
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    Well I installed the 8.5 mm Magnacore wires in my '01 Legacy GT but decided to leave the Boch platinum plugs in (they only have about 35K on them). Noticed a significant difference at low rpm, the engine seems to run smoother and pull better. Also notice that I got better shifting, does not seem to loose momentum while shifting with the new wires. I just wonder if it is all in my mind or a set of new, better wires can make this kind of difference. ALso the exhaust noise seems quiter also.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    don,

    be careful asking for a "leak down" test at your dealership or independent servicer. if someone came to me asking for that, they'd get a pressurized combustion chamber. this is the only test I've ever heard of called a "leak down" test and it is used to determine the rate of pressure loss in the combustion chamber. this tells you how healthy the rings, valvesprings, valves and valve seals are; it's a more thorough test than a simple compression test.

    I never owned an H6 subaru, but my four cylinder did take a just a few seconds to fire when cold. I'd be inclined to call it normal versus immediately suspecting a fuel injector or other fuel delivery problem.

    -Colin
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    test would be more appropriate if you're worried the mechanic would be confused. Paisan's got an excellent suggestion. Try turning the key to 'on' (dash warning lights on) for about 5 seconds. If the car starts instantly after you then turn further to engage the starter, it's a good indication of low startup pressure being the culprit. By doing this, you "pre pressurized" the system.

    If the leak is caused by a faulty injector, this test would not reveal it as the flooded cylinder would still hinder starting even after the 5 seconds. If this is the case, you'll hear a dead cylinder for a few seconds before the cylinder clears and starts burning correctly.

    Good call, Mike.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    sjs: CELs are common, but not what you describe. If the dealer fixed it, don't worry about it.

    Don: I'd suspect the battery. My new battery has almost twice the CCAs as my original, and it starts better now, FWIW. Cheap, too, at $40 from Wal Mart.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Turning the key to on you can actually hear the fuel pump pressurizing and when it stops. This is how I always start my Soob. Works perfect. If I just start without waiting it does take a few cranks to fire.

    bit
  • pgh4pgh4 Member Posts: 13
    I have a 2000 Legacy Outback wagon. Does anyone have suggestions for a good maintenance manual for this model..? Mainly looking for somthing that covers routine maintenace practices that I can tackle myself.

    Looking to change the spark plugs very soon. They look alittle difficult to access. Any thoughts or experiences on this..? Thanks
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    Yes it does look difficult at first but by removing the windshield washer bottle (2 bolts) and the air cleaner box (2 bolts) you can get to it easy. Just make sure you have long extensions and a swiwel attachement.
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    Hi Paul,

    Currently, Chilton's and Haynes have no repair manuals for the 3rd generation (MY2000-current) Legacy/Outback. Per email in 2001-09:

    Chilton's: "[has] no information as to when or if this manual will be available"
    Haynes: "It is in review at this time for an update in mid 2002."

    An expensive alternative is the 2000 Legacy/Outback Factory Service Manual. Tacoma Subaru (subaruparts.com) sells it for $288.07 + $29 shipping. It may be less expensive at Liberty Subaru (no online catalog). Contact info:

    Liberty Subaru
    66 Kinderkamack Rd.
    Oradell, NJ 07649
    888-782-9493 (888-SUBY4WD), 201-261-7495, fax 201-261-3261
    http://www.newsubaru.com/

    Tacoma Subaru
    3838 South Tacoma Way
    Tacoma, WA 98409
    877-473-6200
    http://www.subaruparts.com/

    If you call Liberty for the price, please post it here.

    Hope this helps.

    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    are available as individual volumes. Vol 1 is the one for specifications, dealer prep, and general maintenance.

    I think it's a little "hit & miss". It gives info on bleeding the brakes but not about changing pads (that's found in the volume I didn't buy). The volume on body & interior makes no mention of outside mirrors at all!

    Someone listed what each volume covered, perhaps 6 to 9 months ago?, on this thread and possibly the cost of each volume.

    HTH,

    Jim
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    Go over to the i-club.....service and maintenance forum just had some inputs on the manuals.

    Hope this helps.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    The following information is from Post #4001 by "bigfrank". I'm reposting it without his permission hoping to save you the hassle of looking it up yourself. It was really helpful to me when he first posted it back in Jan 6, 2002.

    Jim

    "Not to be obsessive about this, but I happened to find the message from Darlene with the breakdown on the individual books.

    Volume 1 general information $16.38
    Volume 2 mechanism & functions $41.94
    volume 3 Engine $48.96
    volume 4 Fuel & OBD II $44.70
    volume 5 Transmission & diferential $36.65
    volume 6 mechanical components $44.90
    volume 7 body & electrical $36.76
    volume 8 wiring diagram $11.40

    A good "starter" set would be 1 and 2, add 8 if it fits your inclination. The others could always be added if needed. Vols 3 - 7 are the "heavier duty" stuff we sould rather not do.

    About 90% to 95% of what I have wanted to know has been in 1 and 2, although I have read them all... can't help it, I am an engineer 24/7. :)

    It was only when I wanted to bleed my clutch system did I get more info from another book. It was the engine book... the manuals take some getting used to... although I could have managed without that book.

    Regards,
    Frank "

    Again, thanks to Frank for the original post.
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    uh-oh... another Paul!
    Look out Daves!

    Cheers!
    Paul (the original, I think)
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Replaced the rear diffy oil today. Absolutely cannot believe how tight the fill and drain plugs were. Makes me wonder if the dealer really changed the gear oil at my 30k service! It took so long that the tranny will wait 'til Sunday afternoon.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Mine was very tight as well, and this was from the factory since I did it at 24k. From past experience, I gave up trying quickly and put a bottle jack under the end of the handle to push up until it popped loose. The front wasn't as bad as I recall - be sure you differentiate the front diff plug from the tranny plug. The tranny plug is obviously on the sheetmetal pan, but just to help ya avoid a mistake the manual also cautions against. I was able to drain my tranny just by sliding an oil change pan under it and removing the plug without even jacking at all.

    IdahoDoug
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Doug, I used two old tricks from the past to accomplish this. First was brass shims around the 1/2" socket to reduce the play and second was using the jack to apply leverage on the wrench (the car was on the ground). At least I knew to remove the FILL plug first so if I couldn't get the drain plug off, the car is still drivable.

    My tranny is manual (one plug drains both tranny and front diff), hopefully it will go much easier.

    Jim
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    the rim can cause balancing problems, especially if it has been hit driving up a curb or something. Occasionally they will even notice this when balancing the tire, and tell you the wheel cannot be balanced any more. I don't know if this would be covered under warranty though.

    1st gear was always really notchy in my old OBS, if I tried to get into it while the car was moving. So mostly I didn't! But I did notice it got worse and worse as the clutch aged. if you have been driving your WRX real hard, you might have put a lot of wear on the clutch...car and driver said their long term test car was just about ready for a new one...

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Glad you guys managed that. On my Miata, the plugs weren't tight at all. Just a long shafted torque wrench and they came right off.

    I'm curious - how many quarts for each? The Miata took 1 qt for the rear diffy, about 3 for the trans IIRC.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    IIRC, there is some type of epoxy used on the rear diff plug. I couldn't budge mine at all (no breaker bar) on the OBS, so I had the dealer install the rear fluid.

    -Dennis
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Mine wasn't that bad. But I did use a nice HD 1/2" drive breaker bar.

    Tranny is 3.7 qts and the diff is .8qts.

    bit
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    For the manual tranny it was 4.2 qts and 0.8 qts for the diff.

    The manual tranny was much easier. But next time, I will use a small piece of foil to keep the gear oil from dripping onto the exhaust "Y". Detected a slight "Eau de Gear Oil" driving to work this morning.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Oh yeah, pretty pungent odor, eh?

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    4.2? My manual says 3.7qts for the tranny.

    bit
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    I have had a recurring "rattling" sound, only on washboard or rough or gravel roads, that I think I may have finally figured out. Take a look:


    Right side control arm bushing (this one's ok):

    http://www.zztrailer.com/outback/rhs1good.jpg


    Left side control arm bushing (this one's pretty ugly):

    http://www.zztrailer.com/outback/lhs1bad.jpg


    There are more pictures in the directory:

    http://www.zztrailer.com/outback


    lhs... is left hand side (bad)

    rhs... is right hand side (good)


    Could this be caused by the left side front strut going bad in the past and causing excessive strain on this point? Any opinions? It was only pointed out to me this weekend ( I don't spend much time under the car ) and the dealer has failed to say anything about it the last three times I have complained about front end noise and when they replaced the strut, so I'm not sure if the bushing problem came after the struts were replaced (2k miles ago) or if it's been like this a long time. I guess I'll know more after I get this fixed.


    Anyone else experience this on a Subaru, or any other vehicle for that matter? What causes a bushing on only one side to get so hammered? Anything else in the suspension or steering I should be concerned about this damaging? Any comments are appreciated, thanks much.

  • brekkebrekke Member Posts: 304
    I need new front pads at 8K on my '02 OBS. I've never gone through brakes this quickly, but I have been doing a lot of local driving. (I don't ride the brakes or anything)

    Anyway, my question is, since my car is still under warranty, would you advise taking it to the dealer, or is it ok to bring it to an independent garage, or let my husband at it, who claims he knows what he's doing if I get instructions?
  • brekkebrekke Member Posts: 304
    I've had mine replaced twice within one year ~ 8K miles.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Brakes are covered under the 12mo/12K mile warranty.

    -mike
  • brekkebrekke Member Posts: 304
    thanks mike, but I'm past 12 months. Grr!
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    bit, we're both right...the owner's manual says 3.7 qt, but the service manual says 4.2 qt. I'll check the dipstick when I get a chance and adjust if necessary.

    In my opinion, 8k is way too early for front pads to wear out. I'd definitely have the dealer look at it. However, a recent dealer flyer had a comment about new pads not lasting as long because they're made w/o asbestos or something like that, still 8k is too short. On my 2000 Legacy, I'm on original pads at 53k.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's hard to say why only one bushing went bad. It could be the strut, but it could also be that you ran over a puddle of oil and the oil only got on the bad side. That could make the rubber deteriorate and crack or rot.

    8k for brakes is mighty early. Pads are cheap and I bet your hubby could do it, but I would consider having a dealer at least inspect them to see why they may be wearing so early.

    Do you feel any pulsating in the brake pedal? This would indicate warped rotors.

    -juice
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    juice: thanks, i suppose that is another possibility (oil on the bushing), but it doesn't seem excessively oily *now* (another view here:

    http://www.zztrailer.com/outback/lhs6bad.jpg

    maybe it was oily in the past for some reason? anyway, thanks for an idea that didn't even occur to me, that's why i like this forum, good info.


    brakes: for what it's worth, i've had more problems with rotor warpage than brake pad wear, but mine's a 97, not new.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It looks like it's deteriorated quite a bit, but also it may have taken some extra stress from the bad strut. Likely both.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Caroline,
    Whatever you do, don't go to Meineke.
    I went there because I waited around too long and the brakes were nearly metal to metal. The dealer couldn't squeeze me in for two weeks and I was paranoid.

    I got the lifetime pads and they were noisy as heck. A couple months after their warranty expired, my rotors became warped.

    An odd thing with my brakes was the pads wore very unevenly. The left pad was still 50% there, and the right one was nearly gone. Some speculated here, IIRC, that there could have been dirt or something stuck in a caliper.

    Dennis
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I have 55K on my '01 Legacy GT and the brakes are just fine, maybe half way worn, front pads should last at least 30K IMHO.
    Someone asked me in an e-mail (I lost it) how much the Magnacore wires cost for my GT: it was $105.00, the car runs better and get 2 more MPG, up to 29 in combined driving. For some reason it runs much better then the original wires, maybe they were arching?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    brakes are easy to keep in good shape, with a little TLC.

    changing the pad is quite easy, you remove one bolt holding the caliper halves together and swing it like a door away from the rotor. spray the piston liberally with Brake-Kleen (or other cleaner) and push the piston in by hand. if the piston moves anything less than smoothly, consider a more thorough cleaning with disassembly OR having your brakes checked at the next service.

    remove old pad. insert new pad. push in piston by hand and close caliper. replace bolt and torque appropriately (not sure what that is anymore!).

    easy-peasy. btw Caroline, 8k miles for a set of pads does sound pretty quick! you're really enjoying that OBS aren't you? :-D

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Your old wires must've been letting some sparks leak.

    -juice
  • dan_s1dan_s1 Member Posts: 8
    Hello All,
    I have a 2001 H6 Outback and have noticed some that over time I loose a little coolant. I asked my dealer to top off it off during my 15,000 service and he said that would cost me $. I said I would do it myself. (though I really think that should be under warrenty work)

    What coolant should I buy? I hear that it is important not to mix different brands.

    Thanks, Dan
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You should not mix different types, actually.

    You can use the regular green stuff, i.e. Prestone or Peak, just mix it 50/50 with water.

    -juice
  • chunkydogchunkydog Member Posts: 3
    First, as a newbie I apologize for treading on such a well-worn topic. I did some searches on this topic in this discussion, but didn't find anything that was quite on point. So, anyway, here's my question...

    I am using Mobil 1 5W-30 in my 2002 WRX wagon. I drive about 30% highway, 70% "city". Most of the time, I drive fairly sanely, though a WRX does demand that you hammer it every once in a while... ;-). Based on those facts and the owner's manual, it appears that Subaru recommends that the oil be changed every 3,750 miles (half of the regular 7,500 mile interval because of "severe conditions").

    However, when I took the car to the dealer today for the change after 3,750 miles had passed, the service manager advised me only to change the oil every 7,500 miles, regardless of the driving conditions, "because it was synthetic oil." Anything more often than that, he said, was "throwing your money away." Of course, it's not his car.

    The Mobil 1 web site says this, which I found unhelpful: "While Mobil 1 has given excellent results in extended oil drain tests, ExxonMobil prefers to remain conservative with oil drain recommendations. ExxonMobil engineers recommend that you can go all the way to the maximum mileage or time frame shown in your owner's manual for oil changes when using Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™. This allows the reserve protection capabilities of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ to cover unusual or unexpected driving conditions.

    "Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™'s high-performance reserves can give you the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals."

    Anyway, what are everyone's thoughts on this topic? Should I stick to 3,750 mile intervals with the Mobil 1, or would it be wiser to extend them further out?
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    That is an upright service manager! Some people do oil changes at 3000 mi with dino oil. If you're paying extra for synthetic, what's the benefit if you can't extend the oil change at least to the factory recommended interval?

    I'd follow the service manager's advice. If anything happens to your engine, I'd bet that changing oil at 3,750 mi intervals would NOT have prevented it. My $0.02.

    FWIW - I use dino oil and change at 7500 mi intervals. Zero problems @ 53k miles.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You'll be more than safe with a 7500 mile interval, IMO. Synthetic won't sludge up.

    Heck, I used dino oil with those intervals for a long time and never had problems with my Subie, and with excellent gas mileage to boot.

    Besides, 3750 intervals requires some really odd arithmetic. Does 26,350 miles ring a bell, i.e. remind you to change your oil when you hit that mileage?

    I'd go with a round number, 3000, 5000, or 7500.

    -juice
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