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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Ralph: good idea.

    I wonder what would happen if you stop adding coolant, i.e. let it go a little below the MIN mark. I think what's leaking is what keeps getting added.

    Engines siezed? Wow, was it under warranty I hope?

    The '99 Outback still used the Phase I DOHC engine. The only issue with those was the front seals would leak once in a while, usually at pretty high mileage, like 90k or so.

    What is generally recommended is to have the seals replaced when you do the timing belt, since it's just a couple of extra bucks, and they are working in the same area anyway.

    Besides that, no major issues. That engine had been out in roughly the same form since 1997, so that was the 3rd model year and those are generally reliable.

    -juice
  • potenzauspotenzaus Member Posts: 29
    Hi,

    I got new set of tires 205/55/16 G-Force kdws on my 00 Legacy (replaced the 225/50/16 Avid V4). The Big O tire shop recommended 40psi on the tires (that's the max rating). Which one should I follow Big O's 40psi or the manual's 32/30 psi?

    Thanks in advance.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    40 sounds awful high. Try something in between, see how it rides/handles, and adjust to your tastes.

    I use 33 psi. On my Miata, though, that's too rough (the CD skips), it's only got 28 psi in those tires.

    -juice
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Hello everybody, haven't been here for a while, was very busy. Just wanted to update on my sunroof issue that I had several months ago. Finally SOA sent me a reply that they are willing to pay for half of the repairs if I do it at Sub dealer.

    Also, as it started getting colder each night, I started to notice more and more a piston slap when I start the car in the morning. I hope that this is normal.

    Car just turned 60K, getting ready for the 60K service. If anybody can let me know how much I can expect to pay, I'd appreciate it. (I'm in Colorado, so if anybody knows fairly inexpensive place, let me know.)

    Oh, almost forgot, on of the bulbs on the A/C control panel burned out all of the sudden, never happend on any other cars I've owned. I wonder if it cost a lot to replace it.

    Thanks...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Welcome back.

    Remind us about the roof, how was it damaged again?

    I've heard of 60k service costing $400-600, depending on how much they do. Generally getting the gear oils changed and all that gets it up to the higher price point.

    The bulbs are cheap, it's the labor that is costly. Unfortunately, I just installed a 6CD radio in our Legacy and it's not exactly easy to access. The Forester and Impreza are much easier.

    -juice
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Basically what happened was I started opening my sunroof and I heard a noise and all of a sudden it stopped operating. I was able to open it, but couldn't close it, had to do it manualy. Went to the dealer and they said that I need a new track and it doesn't cover by the Classic plan. Found out that it would cost me $1000 to replace the thing since I was told that track comes in a complete assembly with a motor. Called SOA and they said that unless I can prove it that the damage was caused by the motor, I'm SOL. After that, I sent a long letter to a TEAM Leader at SOA explaining the problem. It took them about a month to respond but finally they told me that they'd pay for half of the repairs. While not a great deal, I think it's better than nothing.

    As far as bulbs, the one that burned up is where I switch from different levels, i.e face, legs, windshield....I wonder if it's covered by warranty, I hope so, even though it doesn't really bother me all that much.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    When tire pressures get too high, you're going to get some bouncing like a basketball, not to mention a harsh ride. I'd start at +3 psi at each tire and see how ride and handling are, then adjust up or down. Starting at 40 psi sounds very abnormal to me.

    Jim
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    40 psi is high unless you're going to be autocrossing.

    Ask the dealer for an itemized list of things they do for the 60K. A good number of them are recommended and go above and beyond the minimum in your owner's manual. Doing some of the easy stuff (ie. oil change, inspect tire pressures) you can reduce the list.

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    It isn't covered under the warranty and is a relatively common problem on the 97-99 OB/legacies. If you feel up to it you can change it yourself for like $3.

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    So you'll end up paying about $500 to fix that moonroof? That ain't too bad, I guess. At least they worked with you.

    That's actually the first Subaru moonroof I've known to fail.

    -juice
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    There was a recent post on the i-club about Northwest dealers and a lot of add-ons. If you tell the dealer to go by the warranty book (and not their recommendation), you're likely to save some bucks.

    My wife had those same bulbs replace on her OB. I think labor was 45 minutes, bulbs about $12. The 4,5 and 6 lights are out on the radio as well. They said they would have to "send it out" for repair. She declined. :-)

    -Dennis
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Can we blame the distributor for a delay in getting parts? I ordered a piece of plastic trim (damaged at the port or factory) in early September and it's still not in.

    Wouldn't it be better for folks in New England and NY/NJ if we didn't have to deal with SDC and SNE?

    I have a good mind to call the District Service Operations Manager of SDC. I'm sure Patti would tell me not to though. :-) Hope she's recovering well.

    Anyway, I ordered parts from a Subaru Dealer in the UK after I ordered parts from my dealer. Guess which ones arrived first?

    Hello? Is this thing on?

    -Dennis
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Do you guys have instructions on how to change those bulbs? I have to admit that I'm not one of those car junkies that can do everything by themselves without looking at the manual. Any help is highly appreciated.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    But I do recall someone here replacing them (I think). You could also try a search here and on i-club.com/forums

    -Dennis
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Dennis: that's why I miss Darlene. She'd get me stuff overnight, two days max for parts in stock. Even stuff from Japan would take a week or so, tops.

    My guess is if you can get access to the bulb, it's cake to swap it out. The trick is taking the center console apart to gain access. I swapped radios on our Legacy and it took a couple of hours or so of work (slow paced, very careful). You could do a Forester in minutes, though.

    -juice
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    Recently posted regarding piston slap in 98 OB. Short block replaced at 8K due to same. Patti suggested contact SOA rep thru dealer. Selling dealer said no more fix, normal. Different dealer said, sounds like timing belt tensioner. Replaced. Same noise. Service manager contacted rep ( I was told) and the OB is at this time at the dealer having either pistons replaced, depending on bore taper or short block. I COULD NOT BE HAPPIER. I will post after getting OB back.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Great to hear that, keep us posted when you get the car back.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Yes, piston slap isn't fixed by replacing the short block. The pistons have very small variations in tolerances that are magnified with the short skirts.

    Ken
  • outbikeoutbike Member Posts: 6
    Hello All -

    I am new to the board. I bought a used 96 Ouback w/ 62K in Feb 01. I now have approx. 92K. For the most part, I have been satisfied w/ the vehicle. However, I have had a few problems and would be interested in some of your thoughts.

    - Noisy Brakes - ALWAYS squeal - have never had them looked at - so who knows what the problem/solution may be.

    - Oil leak @ 70K - leak around oil pump was spewing oil all over exhaust manifold. Smelly and expensive to fix

    - Starter motor - died at 91K. Never lost a starter motor on any of my other vehicles

    - HVAC lights - all the light bulbs (3, I think) in HVAC control panel have burned out - kinda weird.

    - Gas mileage - average 20-22 mpg in town and 25-28 on the highway (using 93 octane per owners manual recommendations). A little disappointed in the city mileage.

    Other than that - been a great vehicle. Perfect size for my life style and activities and completely unstoppable when the weather goes bad.
    Any thoughts y'all would share concerning my problems would be appreicated . . .

    Thanks,
    Outbike
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    IdahoDoug has instructions re the bulbs behind the heater buttons. He e-mailed 'em to me a while ago - I still have 'em if you need 'em. I can forward the e-mail, or you can get it from him directly.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • calnatsdcalnatsd Member Posts: 1
    I did a little asking around-it was not hard because it appears to be a common occurrence: The rear seal blows out and people lose all the oil. 5 cases of this happening with 4 seized engines, all 99 Outbacks all around 70,000 mi. All these folks are in SE CT. There must be a real problem?! Any other experiences like this?
  • outback_97outback_97 Member Posts: 130
    check to make sure that there's nothing rubbing on a belt or pulley... i had the alternator recall done last year, and when the the "mechanic" put the guard back on, he neglected to put one of the bolts in. it was sitting on the pulley and making a nice rubber / plastic burning smell. no harm done, but annoying.

    i posted several days ago w/ links to a picture of a control arm bushing that i thought was causing a front end noise, and i was going to get it replaced. the shop says the bushing was fine so they just replaced the bumpers on either side of the bracket. still have the noise with two new struts and the bushing bumpers. no idea what is causing it; it's only on washboard roads and also bumps while cornering. oh well.
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Paul, I would really appreciate it if you could send the instructions to my email which is in my profile. Is it complicated and do I need special tools?

    Again, thanks for all your help.
  • studleystudley Member Posts: 4
    Help!
    I bought a 2001 Forester new and the rear wiper only makes one sweep every 6 seconds. I adjusted the ring on the stalk and it didn't make much difference. My dealer says this is normal speed, but I have been driving behind other Foresters in the rain and their rear wipers seem to go as fast as the front wipers.
    Is my situation normal? Is there anything I can check myself?
    Thanks,
    Bob Studley
    r.e.studley@att.net
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    If the brakes always squeal, your wear indicators may be rubbing against the rotors. Change the pads ASAP else you'll be changng pads (cheap) and rotors (expensive). With 92k miles on my last car, I think I was on my 3rd set of brake pads.

    paisan mentioned the HVAC bulbs burned out on some of his Subies, so that's not uncommon. It's a $1 part, but getting access can be tough, unless you've done it before.

    That mileage is actually pretty good. Great, if you compare to whatever SUV alternatives were available at the time.

    Greg: I've actually heard it was the front seals. The rule-of-thumb is to change the timing belt at 60k and then change the seals at the same time, since they're in the same location and all the labor is already paid for.

    Another thought - at one of our chats, a couple of Subaru techs (with LOTS of experience) discussed the issue of synthetic oil. They said if you switch, to do it early. Dino oil forms a coating around the seals which help protect them, but switching to synthetic can break down that coating, and since it flows better, it's much more likely to leak.

    Bob: I think they added the intermittent feature for 2001. My '98 has a single, fixed speed, so I can't help, sorry.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You gotta love this place. It's a great resource.

    -juice
  • miksmimiksmi Member Posts: 1,246
    From Russ's Little Subie Page, here are instructions to

    change climate control panel bulb in 95-99 Legacy     .


    HTH.


    ..Mike

    ..Mike

  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    adjusts the intermittent speed of the front wipers, not the rear, right?

    The rear sweeping once every 6 seconds sounds about right to me.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Amen, pure synthetic on older seals cleans out the gunk and when they leak they have to be replaced. Since replacing them, I have been using 50% synthetic, and 50% conventional. It's worked great and gets better mileage than pure conventional. Love the extra boost the synthetic gives to the additive package.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Well I got a notice in my mail today for the recall to have the ECU. reprogrammed.

    Even though I have not had any problems they suggest that I have the ECU. reprogrammed so I made an appointment for next week. I hope they do not screw anything up as this car runs real sweet.

    Cheers Pat.
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    Your wipers are behaving exactly as designed. The switch to intermittent WAS for 2001, and 6 seconds is about right. As mentioned, the ring adjusts the FRONT intermittent only, the rear is a fixed interval.

    Ross
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Dude,

    I was able to replace them in my identical '97 without removing the heater cable or the center console - saved at least an hour. Look for my post somewhere or get it from Paul (thanks, Paul!). Russ' pictures are good once you're looking at the heater w/ dash apart, tho...

    IdahoDoug
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Doug, I got some instructions from i-club but they involve removing the dash components. Do you remember when you posted yours, so that I don't have to search through 6000 posts? Thanks a bunch.
  • janecollinsjanecollins Member Posts: 1
    Because of moving around, this was the first time my 2 month old 2000 mile Forester spent the night in the cold (about)40F. When I started it this morning: (1) in 2d gear on dirt road, the revs would increase but the speed would not; (2) when I slowed down and tried to go into 1st (usually no problem) it both stalled & the brake pedal would not move (3) and when I turned around to come back up hill (1 mile back home) it shuddered all the way back up. The dealer picked up the car within the hour & at the dealership it ran fine, they could not repeat.
    Any ideas? would being cold exacerbate something that would not repeat later?
    Thanks
  • reblack_jrreblack_jr Member Posts: 57
    Does anyone have any info on the cause of water dripping from the overhead console (location of sun roof switch and switchable two lights)? I posed this question last year but it just started to drip again now that it is raining heavily in the northeast. I seem to remember there were some suggestions that water was building up and overflowing the seal because a drain may be clogged. Help!
    I tried to gently lift out off the plastic cover that mates with the headliner to get a peek at the situation. The plastic did not budge and thought I might ask those who know before I break something.
    Other than dripping and the accumulation of water in the switch assy the headliner got locally damp when it rained.
    Thanks for the help!
  • bedsondbedsond Member Posts: 2
    My 93 Legacy Wagon with 186000 miles has just started occasionally hesitating and losing power at 70-75mph. One time it went away by downshifting and reaccelerating. The other time it continued at lower speeds and gears. Both times the problem did not appear again for a couple of months. Changed wires, plugs, and fuel filter. Problem still exists. This is the only problem I've had with this car! Any ideas?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    had something similar on my 92. once it was the intake manifold (there's some cheap cardboard gasket which deteriorates with age and leaks)and another time a bad cam sensor or something but that did it more at startup.
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    Sorry to mess up your conspiracy theory, but my VDC thread is still there. Maybe SOA has selected delete capability. I am curious, did your car ever actually overheat or loose coolant from the actual coolant system, or just from the overflow tank?

    I am glad you like your Passat; I also thought it was a nice car, drove it extensively, but liked the VDC better. Still do.

    Mike
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    To the best of my knowledge you will locate drains exiting behind the front and rear wheels, I had this problem on nearly all of the Accords I owned and the cause was just blocked drains.

    The rear drains on my Accords were accessable fron the trunk, after removing the side trim panel, in the case of the Accord the rear drain came out behind the rear bumper cover

    I have not had my Gt wagon long enough for the problem to occur but I will do preventive maintenance to insure that it does not.

    Cheers Pat.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Dude,

    Go to post #5970 (above maybe 8 posts) and ask Paul for the directions. I don't know when the post was - I post a bit here.

    On the hesitation, this sounds a bit like a failing catalytic converter. The internal plates start failing and physically blocking the exhaust flow - leading to an immediate drop in power at higher speed/RPM. When you drop the throttle (ie to downshift), the plates can either fall away or spring back out of the airflow.

    IdahoDoug
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    Dude: The bulb post was back in June. Don't bother searching - I'll dredge it up & e-mail it to you tomorrow. I'm at work now & don't have it saved here. IIRC it's pretty easy from the looks of the directions, I just haven't tackled it yet.

    Cheers!
    Paul

    Edit: Had access to it here after all - and now, you should too. P.
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Hi everyone, I've been away and trying to catch up with all the missed posts (almost 3000!!) Anyway, I'm in the process of performing the 48000 km service to my 2000 Legacy. I've serviced pretty much everything necessary,but have 2 questions which I hope someone could help with. I've drained the transmission pan via the plug but only about 4L of oil came out. The manual has the tranny holding over 9L. Is anyone aware of how I would get the rest of the oil out? Lastly, I want to replace the gear oil for the front and rear diff with synthetic but am unable to find it in the necessary 80W90 grade. I've been able however, to find 75w90. Would that suffice even though Subaru calls for the 80W90??

    Cheers!

    Dave.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Dave,
    The manual transmission holds about 3.7 US quarts (the OWNER'S Manual is correct). I also have the SERVICE manual which is incorrect (at 4.2 US qts). The 9L requirement is ATF fluid for automatic transmissions.

    Both my service and owner's manual state 75w90 for the diff oil. I did these changes a few weeks ago with Redline 75W90 Gear Oil in the rear diffy. Those fill/drain plugs are tight. See post #5906 et al.

    Also, if you have a manual tranny, it shares oil with the front diffy (I used Redline 75W90NS in the tranny/front diffy.)

    Jim
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Dave,

    An automatic transmission has a total. capacity, and a drain/fill service fluid capacity. The smaller drain/fill service figure is because an automatic transmission has places within itself that hold fluid which doesn't drain to the pan upon shutdown (torque converter, oil galleries, etc). So, the pan is all that is required to be drained for service/refill.

    The reason for this is quite simple. The fluid doesn't generally "wear out", but its additive package (detergents, anti-foaming, etc) do. When you refresh the 1/3 of the fluid, you also provide fresh additives which are deemed adequate by the manufacturer to continue maintaining the tranny's internals.

    There are complete flushes available from Jiffy Lube and the like, which do change nearly 100% of the fluid. While this is nice, I personally think it's overkill unless the tranny's been horribly mistreated/overheated, or there's been some contamination (such as submersion in water). Hope this helps.

    On the diffs, go ahead and use the 75/90, which is available from Mobil 1 widely as well as the Redline mentioned above.

    IdahoDoug
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    robert: now you are definitely trolling. I'm sorry that I ever even tried to help you.

    I don't believe when you say the VW SLOmotion is so superior, if that were the case you wouldn't have bought the Subie in the first place. You chose the Subaru H6, noone forced you.

    What "meltdown", your Subie never broke down in the first place, you admitted as much.

    Dear Edmunds Hosts: can we delete that post? It's just bashing Subaru, bashing the members here that try to help folks out. The criticism is neither constructive nor polite, nor is it even truthful (I just pointed out 2 examples).

    Enough is enough.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    Be carefull when you have this done, a bad operator can damage your tranny if he uses the incorrect preassure while doing the change.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Pat: I think they make the CEL less sensitive, so if you haven't had any it'll be even less likely afterwards.

    bedsond: first of all, 186k miles? Sweet!

    OK, what I would do next is a throttle body cleaning service. Our 626's fuel injection got clogged up and it started hesitating. It felt like new after the service, worth every penny.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did a tire rotation yesterday, felt good to turn a wrench again after slacking off for months.

    Sprayed some lithium grease on the sway bar bushings, too. Visual inspection of the suspension confirmed everything looks good.

    Brakes look great. Still on my original pads with 48k miles, and they barely seem used. Top it off, they are quiet as always, maybe I'm lucky but they look like they'll outlast the Subie.

    Well, maybe not if I get to 186k!

    -juice
  • taddisontaddison Member Posts: 99
    If you prefer to spend time instead of money you can change the ATF several times, running the car for a while between each change to circulate the fluid.

    If you are able to drain 4L from a 9L system then after two changes you will have put in 8L of ATF and 30% of the old fluid will remain in the system.

    After three changes you will have put in 12L of ATF and 17% of the old fluid will remain.

    After four changes you will have put in 16L of ATF and 9.5% of the old fluid will remain.

    The cost of wasted ATF will be a lot less than the cost of a flush at a shop (unless you're using synthetic, perhaps).
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I like the drain and fill method for ATF changes. It's less of a shock to the system IMHO.

    -mike
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