Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

1125126128130131385

Comments

  • declansdaddeclansdad Member Posts: 120
    I say keep the post. I think this post could be rather helpful for those owners with some serious or minor concerns.

    I just feel that b/c one person with such emotional involvement can't separate fact from opinion we shouldn't punish those who can.

    Michael
  • theandymantheandyman Member Posts: 8
    The problem is probably related to the clutch in some way. Be absolutely sure that you're not engaging the clutch even a little bit - make sure your left foot is not touching the pedal at all. You should avoid downshifts into first while you're moving altogether, but especially when the car is warming up. If that doesn't solve anything, it sounds like a leak in the master cylinder, or maybe the clutch fluid is low.

    Andy
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    There is constructive criticism, and then there's just plain old bashing.

    Talking about a meltdown that never happened doesn't help anyone. Yes, he had to add coolant frequently, and had his coolant analyzed by a lab, revealing a coolant leak. But his Outback never broke down. There was no meltdown. Why lie about that? He's mentioned spending $2500, on what? Why be so vague?

    Read the comments now and you'd find it hard to believe they made a conscious decision to actually buy a Subaru they now say they detest. They must have liked it, else they would not have spent their hard earned money on it.

    My point is, these discussions are to share information that can be helpful to someone, and should be truthful and complete. Along comes someone that is not using their real name, tossing out insults and criticisms and adding exactly nothing to the discussion.

    I come here to help out, offer advice, opinions, share experience. I don't even have a problem! He's here only to vent and insult people.

    Sorry, it just makes me sick.

    -juice

    PS I should know from experience to ignore trolls, shame on me.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The post in question has been deleted after review by the Host. While juice's opinions on motive/personality are not to be construed as those of the Edmunds management, I deleted the post because it violated the Town Hall rules regarding courtesy to others. In that respect juice is quite correct that the post was inappropriate. The poster has been referred to the User Agreement so that this type of thing won't recur.

    And yes, innoring posts like this is the best policy. Just let me know if there's a problem anywhere on the Boards and I will review it promptly.

    thank you

    Mr Shiftright
    Board Host
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    It is not the CEL. that concerns me, rather this car runs so good I would be more concerned that they would screw this up, I am a big believer in the old adage, if it ain,t broke don,t fix it.

    However I am also concerned that if I do not have the re programming done it would be an excuse in the future to give me warranty hassles.

    Cheers Pat.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'm sorry for not posting more often, but I'm having a problem typing.

    FWIW - I am aware of this customer and as I stated before, there is more to the story. I just don't think it is right to post specific customer information on these boards. As a general statement - -

    When we become aware of a customer concerns, we evaluate the validity of the concern. We put a lot of resources into that, including technical help, etc. Usually, the concern can be fixed promptly. Sometimes, it is not a situation that can be addressed prompty but does not impare the vehicle - that dreaded "normal operating characteristic". These take more time, but are usually addressed in the future with some type of service campaign (our expense no matter how old the vehicle). Sometimes the customer has other issues that we cannot confirm or fix. The customer always has the right to file for Lemon Law if they do not like our answer, but most Lemon Law arbitration boards will not accept a case without merit.

    People will post their feelings whether they are good or bad. Most of ours are good. We just have to rely on the individuals experience with us to help other customer's judge on the validity of continued commments. It is better than arguing on the boards.

    I hope you all are well, and I appreciate all of your kind wishes. I'm reading them, even if I can't respond to them right now. I should be back in a few weeks.

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    number (1-800-SUBARU3) and start a case. Tell the Rep. that Patti sent you. They can arrange for the dealer to keep the car overnight and start the car on a cold morning to try to duplicate the problem and then fix it. Let us know how you make out?

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    was reading R&T today, and they have a 12-month/four-seasons (whatever they call it) WRX - which mag doesn't right? What caught my eye is that after 14K miles, the clutch in theirs is also chattering so badly they feel they must ask for it to be fixed at the 15K service.

    Since there have been so many posts in here about this problem in lots of Subie models, and since my own OBS did this its whole life, and got worse as the clutch aged, I am wondering (idly and for no good purpose, I admit!) if perhaps Subie should not make their clutches stronger? Particularly since they are now selling high-power models like WRX in this market? In five years and almost 120K miles, this was the only thing I was ever less than thrilled about on mine. I used to think it was due to the cable operation as opposed to hydraulic design, but now I wonder if it is or not.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Just about to hit 30k on my 01 GT. I've done all of the maintenance myself to this point. Just finished recently tranny and dif fluid changes, plugs, and air filter. My neighbor and ace professional mechanic is going to help me with brake and clutch fluid change. Is there any reason for me to have the dealer give it a once over at this point? The only problem I have had is the old (but very minor) clutch chatter. I guess that is the only reason I feel like taking it in just to get it on record. I am by no means at a point where I would want them to pull the clutch... yet.

    Tires are still looking good other than a noticeable uneven wear pattern on the drivers side. Slightly more wear on the inside edge of the tread. I rotate every 3k with oil change so not sure if it is front or rear alignment (or both).

    About to embark (next month) on another road trip. This time down to the panhandle of Florida to visit the inlaws. That should be around 6k or so making it about 19k in road trip miles this year. Love this car for road trips.

    bit
  • robert116robert116 Member Posts: 36
    Juice/Patti, ever post I have made can be documented by service orders and letters from SOA.
    Would you like to see them??
    On the last day of our vacation our car had to be towed to a dealer because it overheated and the overflow tank was full of sludge, would you like to see the towing receipt and the notations the servicing dealer made regarding the condition of the tank.
    SOA refused to pay for the rental car bill, would you like to see the copy marked paid by us?
    Subaru said they would not fix the car in the letter they sent us, would you like to read it for yourself??
    Or perhaps you would like to see a copy of all the service invoices???
    Doubt we owned many new Subaru's, would be glad to show you a copy of the purchase contracts, pretty sure I have all of them.....

    Good grief!

    The H6 engine has a serious problem, many owners are reporting coolant loss and Subaru has done and will do nothing.

    Just where is the VDC section again??
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Good to hear from you. Get better soon, we all miss you around here. Besides, I've got nobody now to try and pry info out about future models... ;)

    Bob
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    bit--

    get an alignment before you head to florida.

    -Colin
  • dave226dave226 Member Posts: 22
    Thanks for the advice...used a torque wrench for the diff plugs and got them off pretty easily. Also used tin foil to direct the gear oil over my "y" exhaust for the front diff and it worked sweet. Changed the automatic trans fluid 2X over a 7 day period and am happy with the results. The more I work on this car, the more I'm impressed by the engineering!! Overall, I think I paid just under $140.00 total for the 48 000km service. Think the dealership was asking for around six bills for the same!
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    How are you doing!?

    Ken
  • sibbaldsibbald Member Posts: 106
    Dave, you may want to look for a different dealership, mind did the full 48,000 service for $300.00. O.K. folks, that would be about $185.00 U.S. Anyway, congrats on doing your own service, you have the satisfaction of saving some money and knowing it was done right.

    Cheers, Tom
  • lemonriderlemonrider Member Posts: 17
    Perhaps robert116 is offering his opinion or sharing his experience. Unfortunately or not, when visiting a message board such as this, most of the members are enthusiasts. It seems brand loyalty often shapes perceptions.

    Prior to owning a Subaru I was a tremendous fan - openly recommending the vehicles. Since purchasing a Legacy GT in 2000, I have drastically changed my stance. I can now say without reservation I will never own another.

    When his earlier posts offered a challenge to the quality of Subaru, many board members responded to robert116 in a hostile fashion, doubting his credibility and even his existence. In all fairness, these agressive replies should also have been deleted.

    These discussions should be fair and open. This I say not to anger or upset, but rather to challenge.

    Regarding interesting by nippononly...

    This is a problem. My 2000 Legacy GT (33k) is subject to this condition. Patti, what is the opinion of SOA concerning this?
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    Yes there was negative responses to Robert's complaint. There also were many posts offering suggestions as to the problem and other ways to handle it. I believe he even thanked many of the posters for their response.

    Also, this is a Subaru section on the board. Subaru does have a good reputation with vehicles in general. Of course there are lemons. I go onto the Camry board and hear about them complaining about a variety of things, including engine failure!

    He had a major car problem, and got rid of it. I agree it is a major hassel, but we do not know the whole story. Only his side of the story. Second, he came on the board to bash Subarus in general, and say that a Passat (one of its competitors) was a superior vehicle. There are many people on this board that have Outbacks that swear by them! How do you think this makes them feel? I know I would be pissed if someone came on a board where my car is the main topic to say that I own a piece of crap! That is why the hostility.
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    I was one of the first, if not the first, that had raised concern months ago about loss of coolant in the overflow tank of my VDC wagon. I have been working with both the dealer and with the regional SOA service rep to understand the problem. We are not adding any coolant to see what happens; the coolant level has stabilized about an inch above the low level. I have not had any problems with cooperation with SOA or my dealer; if I have a real problem, we will find it and fix it.

    Robert has never shown any objectivity at all, claims that all H6 engines are defective, claims conspiracy from SOA, somehow spent $2500 on a car in warranty, has posted all over the place to bash Subaru, SOA, the H6 engine. Those of us that regularly follows these threads can easily discount his comments; however, many people just come on these boards to get quick input on car models. I think it is unfair for them to be subject to his crusade, and I am tired of it.

    I have no idea of the entire story, but he needs to get over it and move on, and so do we.

    Mike
  • storytellerstoryteller Member Posts: 476
    Lemonrider: you are right. These boards should be open and uncensored until or unless someone gets out of line. I was one of Robert's early critics, and I stand behind what I wrote months ago when I criticized him for his snide and conspiratorial attitude. I don't think that works well in life and it certainly didn't seem to serve him well in his dealings here or with SoA. I'm puzzled at why he continues to haunt these boards with negative feelings, but that's his business and everyone has the right to speak their mind.

    Patti: we miss you every day and hope your problems get resolved soon! I'd rather have a shuddering clutch than a creaky neck. Good luck.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    nippononly: did you still have the original clutch at 120k miles?

    FWIW, Subaru made some changes for the 2003 WRX, because lots of kids were doing clutch drops repeatedly. From an unknown source:

    "The Clutch Master Cylinder has a Control Valve Assembly ... Its a Restrictor valve..so Basically you can only engage the clutch at a certain pressure...no more 6000 RPM clutch drops...Becuase its not going to matter...The Control Valve only engages at a certain pressure regardless of what you do...."

    Pretty smart if you ask me - that prevents all the clutch drops from frying the clutch, especially when the cars are modified. The kids have to go to the track to measure how much the mods helped!

    Mike: thank you for offering constructive, useful feedback about your problem to this forum. Your behavior is exemplary, and I bet the results will eventually help members of Edmunds.com directly or indirectly. How refreshing.

    That is how this forum should operate, in my humble opinion.

    -juice
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    At 30K you may want to throw in a set og new plugs, the '01 GT did not come with platinums. If you put in Platinums then you wont have to worry about changing the plugs again for at least 60k miles, if you put in the good NKG copper plugs you may get better performance but need to change them at 60k. My '01 GT has 55K on them (changed to platinums at 30K). I just put in a set of Magnacore wires and it runs much better with getting 27+ mpg combined.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Pat: one of the Crew had that recall, and had a similar concern to yours. But it turned out OK.

    I'm with Colin, get an alignment. I'd even consider new tires at this point. Tires are cheap, and the uneven wear may throw your Subie off even if the alignment is good, depending upon how bad.

    30k for tires is a decent life anyway. I'm sure they're not the same as new.

    Dave: $140 is sweet. So what are you gonna do with the $$$ you saved? You just missed my b-day. ;-)

    -juice
  • sdonadiosdonadio Member Posts: 2
    Has anybody had the problem of a burning "plastic" smell coming from his or her Forester? Several months after we bought our car we noticed this smell When getting an oil changed at a local garage we asked them just to see if they could see any problems. They informed us that a plastic bag burned on the engine to cause the smell. Well to make a long story short the smell never completely went away and when visiting the Subaru dealer to have a recall fixed they told us we have a leak in our engine that is causing the smell. Now they are telling us that the transmission needs to be replaced at over 3K. Because we are over 60,000 it is not covered eventhough it happened months after we got the car. Has anybody else experienced this problem? Please let me know.
    Thanks
    S.Donadio@snet.com
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    S. Donadio,

    Did you get a Subaru dealer to document the problems when you noticed them? If yes, then you should be okay even if you are past the warranty cut-off.

    The plastic bag doesn't sound right. There's a cover on the bottom part of the engine so it would be difficult to have something like a bag get stuck in the bay.

    Ken
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Thank you Mike and Steve. Well said and I suspect the feelings of many of us.

    For what it is worth I have had dealings with both Patti and SOA and found them to be responsive and supportive. And the same goes for the dealer where I bought my Soob. Patti I miss you too.

    bit
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Should I get the new tires before the alignment? I have the alignment scheduled for next monday and doubt I will get the tires before then.

    Old subject but any comments on replacements for the 205/55 RE92s? I do have a full size spare that's a new 92 so I would like to keep them in a close circumference just in case.

    bit
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    The only serious issue on my 1991 is the notorious front engine seal leaks. That had to be done twice within 40 K. But other than that I have not had to do repeat repairs, and it has been very reliable. Love the car.

    Based on the consistency and lack of fix however, when I consider a new one, I will have to think hard about a manual tranny, and consult with a number of mechanics about its actual frequency.

    But to be honest the concern of Patti and her ability to solve problems certainly says the company cares.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think it's fine for people to come to message boards like this and complain....ONCE......but to keep hammering away at everyone on Internet message boards, saying the same thing over and over and over... just drives everyone away except other angry people. So there you are in a room full of shouters. No thanks!

    So as host here I'll certainly give anyone their best shot, but then stand back and allow others to offer help and suggestions, or listen for similar problems and possible solutions, or follow links posted for possible other solutions or ask appropriate questions. Are you here to help, to learn, or to just shout?

    Heaping your woe on people who are not responsible for your car breaking down is simply unproductive and will come to no good.

    Lots of people have received very good assistance and information once they quieted down and started looking for a remedy. Not saying it's always easy to find!

    Can someone present a balanced and calm view of this "coolant issue"? Is there a TBS on this, and which models are affected?
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    I've had Michelin XGT H4 on my GT which were very nice, (till my terrible alignment killed them) and now I'm back on the RE92s from my WRX. Some people have found the Dunlop Sport A2 or something very good too. Rave reviews in CR. I am thinking of getting the Potenza RE950 next time, got sl better handling than XGT H4 in Tirerack tests. Almost thought I had found a good excuse to get them last night. Had gone to get my new Nokians wintertires and when I was putting the RE92s away noted a big nail in one, 4 incher! It was in the shoulder and at first they thought it may not be fixable but it was so I guess I will keep my RE92s till they wear out.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I agree, cross-posting is even against the rules.

    Thank you for putting it so eloquently.

    Subaru does not have a TSB (yet?). Mike's little experiment and some others make me theorize that the coolant's overflow tank is just too small for the H6's temperature variations. It settles just below the "Add" mark for at least a couple of folks. Some don't ever have to add coolant, perhaps those in less extreme climates?

    The coolant issue is exclusive to the H6. The H4s have had front seals fail at relatively high miles (80-90k), so the standard recommendation is to change them when you do the timing belt, since the labor is paid for, it'll cost you nothing. Even then most cases are the Phase I, basically the 1997-1999 2.5l DOHC engines (not the newer SOHC).

    Even knowing all this, I'd buy a car with the H6 in a second. In fact, we just bought a 2nd H4 in May. If they put the H6 in the Baja, I'd consider that as my next ride.

    -juice
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Member Posts: 317
    I hope you are feeling better soon and that the doctors will find an effective solution.
    We are all thinking of you and miss you.
    Take Care,
    Ron
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Yes, original clutch, and after reading some of the posts here, I want to add that that little Subie far exceeded my expectations of quality, durability, whatever else you may want to talk about. I only spent $18K on that car and it gave me all those miles without a single repair except a squeaky $50 idler pulley replaced with the timing belt at 100K. I really believe today's Subies are some of the best engineered, best-built cars under $40,000 around.

    On my car I still had the ORIGINAL BRAKES and the ORIGINAL CLUTCH at 115K+. In my experience that is pretty rare - Subie brakes in general seem to be awesome, except for the people posting here about rotor warping.

    My ignorance of clutches led me to post that comment - perhaps it is not the strength of the clutch, but some other factor that affects how much it chatters? It did do it a little even when brand new - nothing I could not live with.

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Under $30k, actually. :-)

    In fact, I saw a left over 2002 VDC for $25.5k, had my wife still been shopping it would be ours, no question.

    I just rotated my tires, and the brake pads look like they'll last forever, too. The rotors are nice and smooth, I haven't ever owned a car that didn't create at least some grooves.

    The chatter happens more often when it's cold and damp, some say it's the pressure plate isn't as rigid as it could be. What I find puzzling is that even then they seem to last forever. Doesn't make sense to me. Oh well.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I would do tires first, then alignment, even if you have to postpone.

    225/50 have the same circumference exactly. Those would work. Or stock size.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I had the ECU reprogram on our '00 Outback. I too was worried that it would 'break' my baby that was running just fine and not exhibiting any of the problems that the ECU program fixed.

    It's been fine ever since, although I wish they would have mixed up my engine with a 2.5H4 TT. ;-)

    -Brian
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thank you Papa Bear, I had forgotten who it was that mentioned it.

    -juice
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    Some of us with H6 engines have found that the coolant level has dropped from the "full" to the "add" mark more than once and we have had to add coolant. We've had our cars pressure-tested at the dealers who found no leaks. My car was put on a lift to see if there was coolant hiding in a crevice, and none was found. My coolant level has "stabilized" just a hair above the "add" line. One of the techs suggested to me that there is often air in the coolant system (from the factory) and that Subarus coolant levels fluctuate quite a bit, but none of us report the level rising once it has dropped. I wasn 't sure when I purchased my VDC that I was making the right choice (#2 was the Passat), but after eight months and a number of trips, we think the Subaru is great. I look forward to the day SOA comes up with a reason for this coolant "problem".
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yours sounds like Mike's, then.

    Just check the level every time you fill up the gas (you should check your oil anyway), to make sure it doesn't get any lower.

    -juice
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    Concerning coolant loss in the H6, I thought I would add a couple of comments to what Juice had said. Having followed this issue from day 1; here are some observations.

    Probably the total amount of posters that have mentioned this has been probably 10 - 15 in the last 6 months.

    Only Robert and one other guy seemed to have problems that actually extended into the actual coolant system. All the rest seem to have coolant that drops in the coolant tank and then stabilizes somewhere. Mine is stable (for several months) at about an inch over the low mark. At least one person has had it stabilize below the low mark.

    Only about 1 pint of fluid will take it from the low line to the high mark. Several of us have the theory that the coolant tank is just not sized right for the H6, and this is just natural variation.

    I have a case file going with SOA (started by our Patti). The SOA field rep does not want me to top up and just see if it ever drops and to where. I really want to top it off and see if it goes back to the same place, but I won't. I tried it on my WRX and it does drop to about an inch below the high mark and stabilizes.

    I keep hoping that a couple of experimenters out there will top theirs off and see if it stabilizes at the same point. I am also curious as to the mechanism for the overflow; I see no evidence that there has ever been any overflow from the top.

    I am sure this was more than you ever wanted to know about this issue, but you asked.

    Mike
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    bit,

    A good alignment shop will look at tire wear and make small adjustments (within spec) accordingly. I'd get the alignment while you still have your old tires or after the new ones have some information (ie. wear) on them.

    Ken
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Thanks for chipping in, at least it is encouraging that nothing was screwed up in the process,it is always a concern that some hamfisted mechanic will make a horse,s [non-permissible content removed] of it.

    Cheers Pat.
  • jimbob17jimbob17 Member Posts: 77
    I have owned two computers one 10 years old and one 5 months. I have owned a number of cars including two Subarus. I am constantly amazed at both computers and cars and how reliable they are given electrical and mechanical whimsy.
    I average 10 to 15 years on a car. That I can get into a car no matter what the weather or conditions and expect to get where I am going and to get there in comfort most of the time is amazing.
    I may be naive but I think most car manufacturers do a darn good job.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, they do.

    Of course, people's "standards" as to what constitutes a "good car" will differ. I have had the experience now and then of being loaned a "good car that never gives any trouble" and immediately noticing 12 things wrong with it that the owner has blissfully ignored because they don't hassle him.

    So you have to take all anecdotal evidence, (including MINE) with a grain.

    The H6 coolant problem sounds a lot like an air bleed issue.
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    Please explain what you mean by air bleed issue. Same as air pockets?

    Mike
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    on unclogging rear wiper spray.
    The resevoir is filled but not a squirt... well, dribble sometimes.

    -Dave

    edit: Oh, it's Mom's OBS ;)
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I agree with Ken. Get the alignment THEN the new tires. Driving even a few hundred miles on fresh tires with a bad alignment problem will start a wear problem on the tires. They may pull AFTER the alignment because they were worn in an uneven pattern. Definitely DO NOT drive on a bad alignment with those new tires - you're asking for trouble. The alignment process itself has nothing to do with the tires. You could have a proper alignment done with bare rims. Ken is correct that a good shop can tweak things a bit after the alignment but they should never do this based upon the tire wear pattern they see. If a shop says that's how they'll align your car, run (don't walk) to another shop that will rely only upon their $10,000 machine's laser measurements rather than some homespun guesstimate.

    IdahoDoug
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, basically Mikenk, that's what I meant. It's just a theory of course, I don't know, but every now and then a car comes along with a design defect that allows air to form in the cooling system.

    This often requires a rather elaborate bleeding procedure. I've even seen people drill and tap in bleed screws to make this easier to do.

    If you think about it, there's only 3 ways the coolant level can drop.

    1. A leak externally
    2. A leak internally
    3. A false reading due to air in the system.
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Member Posts: 37
    Got my outback back from dealer Mon PM after piston replacement at 48k all under warranty. No more cold engine slap! Dealer was easy to work with, contacted SOA rep and got OK. Nowwwwww......about that slight pinion bearing noise at 50MPH ......ha! uffda
  • mikenkmikenk Member Posts: 281
    You appear to be game for working the H6 coolant mystery. Here's a couple of more clues / comments.

    - I don't think it is air pockets, because I can continuously top off the coolant and it will stabilize back at a lower level. I can't perceive a growing air pocket.

    - I don't think there is a high pressure leak since the level stabilizes. I have never seen sporadic leaks; either leaks or doesn't leak.

    - This leaves the overflow tank, but I have never seen any evidence of overflow from the top and I can't see any other mechanism for the coolant to leave.

    - New clue: both times that my coolant dropped to the add mark, I had travelled to a higher altitude. Would that cause the coolant to stabilize at a lower level?

    Seriously, I don't think this is a serious problem, but the engineer in me really wants to understand the physics.

    Mike
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Try sticking a pin into the sprayer in case it's clogged.
    Also, it might have frozen since we've had some chilly nights.
    I use this clear stuff by Prestone called Windshield Melt (or something like that). I pour about half the bottle into a tank of the "blue stuff".

    -Dennis
Sign In or Register to comment.