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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Leo,

    Be advised you are not buying 'HID' lights when you simply get blue bulbs. You are buying 'HID-look' lights and there's an important difference.

    The "look" bulbs merely restrict the spectrum of light put out on the road to the shorter (blue-er) end of the spectrum for a blue look currently considered trendy. From a vision perspective this is a no-no, denying your eyes the colors they normally process with. This causes eyestrain, slows recognition of objects, and annoys oncoming drivers.

    Of particular importance, the longer the lightwave, the less light scatter back at the driver when particles are present (dust, fog, rain). Since these "looks" only use the shorter lightwave frequencies you have more glare, which contributes to the eyestrain mentioned above.

    For all around performance, I suggest the Phillips WeatherVision bulbs which put out a natural light spread for less fatigue on long drives. They're tough to find but worth it - particularly if you drive in foul weather. As for bulb life, I've used several different PIAA bulbs over the years and have uniformly been disappointed. PIAA has good customer service though, and once sent me 4 bulbs in a good hearted attempt to keep me happy while they tried to resolve a short life issue on the pricey Ion Crystal bulbs.

    IdahoDoug
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Just changed my o/f today and I must say it was very easy to do . It was so much harder to do the service on my old honda accord I just use to have the dealer do it . 02 outback base wagon 16k miles used mobil 1 5/w30 and subaru filter with new crush washer for drain plug.

    Mike k
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    It gets better... air filter and fuel filter are a breeze. Plugs really aren't so bad either. Rear dif fluid is easy if you can break the plug loose and the tranny (manual) is easy other than rigging a hose to make it to the filler hole.

    bit
  • bedsondbedsond Member Posts: 2
    My post was 5979 and just wanted to say Thanx! to those who gave me advice. ateixeira's 5988 post(clean the fuel injectors) did the trick. It seemed to be the simplest and cheapest solution so I had it done 10/31/02 at a local garage that specializes in fuel injection systems(they used a MOTORVAC CARBONCLEAN SERVICE). It cost me $100. My 93 legacy wagon is now driving like the day I drove it out of the showroom. 187998 miles and counting. Thanx again
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mike: nice job, it gives you satisfaction, doesn't it?

    I used a hand pump for the tranny gear oil. They are purpose built. Just do it on a warm day so the oil is thin.

    bedsond: yahoo! Sweet, our 626 was the same way, except it needed it at much lower mileage. Keep on runnin', you'll soon be in the 1/4 million mile club. :-)

    -juice
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    bit - yeah, the filler hole for the manual tranny oil is deep in the engine compartment on the Legacy. A couple of bucks was money well spent for the funnel with the long flexible stem.

    juice- The hand pump also worked great when I had to remove gear oil from the tranny. (Followed the "service manual (incorrect @4.2L)" vs, the "owner's manual (correct @3.7L)" fill volume for manual tranny.)

    Jim
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    Please ask your friend to call Customer Service anyway. Once a case is set up, please ask the Rep. to contact me at home to review it. If your friend has already had the work done, ask them to send the information in and contact me.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    This is a copy of what I posted in the Legacy forum:

    I read something interesting the other day, for example Sunoco and Citgo does not import oil from the mid east. These are the two major ones. One theory is that try no to buy mid east oils the other is to buy so the sooner they run ou the better for us is.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    That's interesting. Where did you read that?

    There was an article on gasoline brands and octane in this past Friday's NY Times. They were talking about consumer loyalty and whether or not one brand is better than the other.

    Someone from Consumer's Union said that CR was going to do a brand comparison, but found the differences were too small to do the article. He then went on to say that he mainly uses Sunoco 94.

    -Dennis
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    My low beam driver's side headlight went out over the weekend! 33K miles? Born 2/1/01? Seems really early?

    Oh well... trying to track down the Phillips Weathervision H1 (55W) IdahoDoug mentioned...

    Funny thing, I wrote down the bulb name Friday and put it away for when I would need it in a couple years and POOF, my bulb blows Saturday night...LOL!

    Ralph
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That is sort of early for a stock bulb. But I had Hella H4+30s in there and both blew out in one year. Ouch. Went back to stock. They're still good after about 4 years of use.

    -juice
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Just wanted to let you folks know, last week I brought my 2000 OB in for a check-up as I was approaching 36000 miles. They asked me if anything special should be looked at, so I said, as usual I still occasionaly have the clutch shudder in the morning. The service tech at Flemington said that's not supposed to happen. They took a look at it and said somethings wrong with the clutch and it has to be replaced. The good thing is it's under warranty, except for the disk.
    They also took a look at the brakes and rotors(they had told me I had to cut the rotors). This time they said they were bad enough to be replaced, again under warranty. Since they had everything up and off, I had them do the brakes (F&R) at the same time.
    I now have a new clutch, rotors, and brakes. When I aksed why the brakes and rotors went so early ~36k, they said the parts Subaru at that time was using were not up to par. Now supposedly they have been improved. Time will tell.

    Mark

    PS: Hey Mike- I'm ready for the 48hrs 2 now!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm glad they covered both under warranty. I bet a lot of places would consider the rotors a wear and tear item.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    33K miles is kind of short for bulb, but I wonder if having DRLs is part of the cause.

    I think there were problems with the Hellas. I switched over to Philips Vision Plus pretty early on so I never got to experience the useful life of the Hella, but a friend of mine with them had one go out in about a year too. The Philips I've had have been great. I think I've lost one well after two years of use. The other one is still working fine.

    Ken
  • brad5280brad5280 Member Posts: 11
    THANKS to all who responded with their comments and help on my friend's concerns with air bag distance and gas pedal discomfort.

    The following is edited from a direct e-mail I got from Subaru Dealer rep, Patti Mickel. This was most helpful and is a great example of the dedication Subaru has for resolving owner's concerns (but you already knew that, right?)

    My friend is going to a local place to retrofit (add spacer blocks) to brake & gas pedals. She will file for the reimbursement. BTW, the spacer blocks will cost $400 installed.

    Thanks again,
    Brad
    ======================================
    I saw your post on Edmunds. I'm sorry about your friends problem and please convey my concern.
    1st - please ask her to call 1-800-SUBARU3 and relay the information on how she was treated by the dealership. We take issues like this very seriously.

    2nd - there are places that can modify the vehicle though out the U. S. Please check the yellow pages. If that doesn't work, our Customer Service Representative can call the dealer for a recommendation. Subaru does offer a vehicle modification program for folks with a handicap or disability. If your friend can get a note from a Doctor stating that the change needs to be made to accommodate her for her stature or for her leg/back problem, she will be reimbursed for up to $500 for the change. It shouldn't cost more
    than that anyway. Once again, the Customer Service Rep. can help her with this.

    Patti Mickel
    Quality Control/Training Leader
    Customer Dealer Services
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'm glad they took care of it for you. Any reason the disc wasn't covered as resultant damage? Check with Diane at Flemington to see what she says.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    I thought 33K/22 months was rather quick too, but then I remembered the DRLs. So, it is more like 66K / 44 months... Acceptable...

    And I do like the DRLs - people stop and don't pull out in front of me as much as with my car w/out DRLs.

    Ralph
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    That's good news. Flemington is a dealer that doesn't give you the line that clutch shudder is normal.

    -Dennis
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
  • entoguyentoguy Member Posts: 3
    I live in St. Paul, MN and I own (and love) a 2002 Subaru Forester luxury model with 8500 miles that I purchased brand new in December of 2001.

    Recently, my gas mileage, which was slowly but steadily improving from an abysmal 18 mpg city when I purchased it dropped from 22-23 mpg city to 12-14 mpg.

    The Subaru dealership in White Bear has told my fiance that this drop in mpg is due to the recent cold temperatures combined with city driving. Now, while I'm a vector biologist and not a mechanic, I don't believe that this would cause the mpg to drop by %50. Three or four mpg I'd buy but I'd like someone knowledgeable and independent of subaru to comment on this topic.

    The subaru dealership told us to record the gas mileage on 3 tanks of gas and return if the problem persisted (although we had recorded this problem on two previous tanks after we noticed it dropping).

    I'm curious if anyone else has had issues with gas mileage on 2002 foresters and if so, was the problem ever fixed and if it was fixed what was responsible for the trouble?

    My thanks to anyone who takes time to answer this problem, if it persists I'm going to have to consider buying another vehicle from a different company. I'm not at all happy about Subaru's service in this matter thus far.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Matthew,

    Oxygenated fuel plus cold weather driving does affect gas milage, but 50% does seem extreme. I don't think I could get to 12mpg even if I tried! Sounds like the dealer is giving you a bit of a run-around.

    I'd give Subaru customer service a call to get a case started (1-800-SUBARU3) in conjunction to following up with your dealer.

    You're still within the 1st year mark where dealers should be very good about addressing concerns.

    Ken
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Matthew- So I'm curious, does being a "Vector Biologist" make you an expert on mosquitoes?

    Regarding your mileage, I agree with Ken, the cold weather combined with oxygenated fuel will certainly cause your mileage to drop but 50% is an extreme amount. However, I've no other explanation for the fall-off.

    -Frank P.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    I intentionally ordered my Forester with the factory trailer hitch, mainly so I could use my hitch-mounted bike rack but also so I could have the flexibility to tow on occasion. Well I recently had a room full of stuff that I wanted to move into a storage unit so I went to the local Uhaul to get a small trailer. Trouble is when I hooked up the trailer's lights to the wiring harness, nothing happened. The problem wasn't with the trailer cause I tried several with the same negative result. Next I checked the fuses and everything appeared okay. So my question is: What's the problem? And yes I know I'm an idiot for waiting until I passed the 36k mark before bothering to check to see if the wiring works but who would have thought that there'd be a problem?

    -Frank P.
  • jay_24jay_24 Member Posts: 536
    Frank,

    I've seen my share of trailer light problems. However no experience with a subaru...

    Then is there corrosion on the contacts/plug to the car? How is the ground wire on the trailer and car? Sometimes you can't rely on the hitch to provide the grounding. Rust proofing can insulate the hitch from the car. Double check the connections for the wiring. Most cars its just a matter of following the wire back to a tee-connection. It could be near the spare tire? or maybe in or near the rear tail light? not sure with a subie.

    --jay
  • entoguyentoguy Member Posts: 3
    While I know quite a bit about mosquito vectored diseases, biology etc.., I wouldn't dream of offending true mosquito disease experts by trying to pass myself off as one. It's an area I'd like to eventually get into but for now I'll stick to easily modeled systems.

    Thanks for all the feedback. We'll try to use a different fuel and see if that doesn't help. Otherwise I'll try the customer service number that was provided by KenS in the previous post.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    with what Ken and Frank told you. That kind of drop is extreme. Trying a different fuel and keeping a log like the dealer advised will help isolate the cause. I know it is frustrating, but I'm sure we'll get to the root of the issue.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • nine51nine51 Member Posts: 77
    Getting a good read on gas mileage in changing weather is like trying to nail Jello to a wall. You need to average it over several tankfulls of gas, and try to use the same pump. My 5 speed WRX has gone from a low of 18 mpg to a high of 27.4 mpg, sometimes from one tank to the other. Cold weather will always make the numbers drop. The best I could get last January was 26. This summer I regularly got 27 if I kept my foot out of the turbo. Fortunately we don't use oxygenated fuel here yet. That will make your mileage worse.

    If you think your mileage is bad with your Forester, try asking someone with another SUV.
  • mharnissmharniss Member Posts: 2
    I've been reading these boards and have seen a few remarks about short block failures. Does anyone know if this has happened to many others? I have a 1999 Outback wagon with 52,000 miles on it that has now had the short block replaced twice! The first time, I was told that the car threw a piston. The second time the dealer assumed (after consultation with SOA) that there was a microfacture in the block. The dealer indicated that he had replaced a few short blocks but not so many that it seemed like a trend.

    In addition, the radiator has been replaced twice (not because of external damage, but due to faulty construction according to the dealer). I'm not sure if the two are related.

    I haven't had any other problems, but feel like I need to sell the car before the warranty is gone. Subaru has worked with me and replaced everything under warranty, luckily, but I am nervous. Any information would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Mark
  • royallenroyallen Member Posts: 227
    Jay is on target. I would add that a $10 analog or $20 digital voltmeter will help see if the ground (usually white on trailer wires vs black on vehicle) is the problem which is the most likely reason for no light function on a trailer. Another problem could be fault in primary power wire from the battery to the trailer wiring control module. This wire is heavier than the other wires and not white, green, yellow or brown, the trailer wire colors for ground, right t, left t & tail lights.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Check to see if it's the ground (most likely) or that the wires didn't hit the exhaust and melt! I've had both situations over the years.

    -mike
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    I'm sorry about the problems that you have had. I did see your case documented on our Customer Service Database. 1 Shortblock is unusual - but 2 is very strange. I looked at the repair and it appears that the dealer was thorough and I don't believe you will have any problems in the future. If you do, please call the 800 number right away. Those files are maintained for years so you won't be left high and dry. Both failures appear to be a fluke and were not directly related.

    Once again, I'm sorry but please be assured that everything is documented and you shouldn't have another similar problem.

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    what to check (the other "techie" types here can help with that. But, if a dealer looks at it, don't fret. I'm sure they will help even if you are over the warranty. If not, you know the number to call.....

    Happy Thanksgiving!

    Patti
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Thanks to all for the input. Roy- I know that someone with a voltmeter could easily trace the problem but my knowledge of all things electric is limited with the one thing I do know being to turn the power off to anything before working on it. Also, being red/green colorblind is a definite handicap when working with electrical wiring. In any case, I did inspect the wiring (including the T-connection at the spare tire) and everything seems to be in order and like new condition (My Forester is a 2001 after all).

    Thanks Patti, I probably will have the dealer look at it and let you know if there's a problem. Happy Thanksgiving to you and hope you're doing and feeling better!

    -Frank P.
  • 95gl95gl Member Posts: 18
    The driver's door on my 02 Forestor has started to sqeak while opening. I had read someplace that you should not use WD-40. Any other suggestions?
    Keri
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I've used WD40 for door squeaks as well as white lithium grease spray.

    -Dennis
  • pnassmacpnassmac Member Posts: 37
    Patti,

    Just a note to your superiors; in part because of your participation on these boards and the responses you've submitted to those lucky enough to receive your assistance in times of trouble, I chose to purchase an '03 X almost four months ago.
    I was unsure of leaving the Honda brand but felt more confident to do so with your presence and the support of SOA standing behind you.

    Regards,

    pnassmac
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Stick with lithium, which doesn't stick and doesn't corrode rubber or plastic.

    Frank: check the spare tire well to make sure the harness is plugged in right. It's at the back of the well. Then follow the wiring through the grommet that leads to the underside. Could just be loose or cooked to a well-done standard if it hit the exhaust.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Patti's support -- one more thing to be thankful for on Thanksgiving.

    Ken
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Juice- Thanks but I already checked both of those possibilities.

    -Frank P.
  • bat1161bat1161 Member Posts: 1,784
    Patti,

    Don had told me, and Diane confirmed this, that Subaru feels the clutch disk is a wear item. In the past when they have tried to get it covered under warranty they have been turned down. Thanks for the heads up though.

    I did tell Diane that she has a good group out there looking out for their customers.

    Mark
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Spent two bloody hours today in the freezing cold taking out the interior trim panels on the right rear Quarter panel on the Titan.

    Came out of the stores on Monday to find some careless eejit ( I would call them something stronger but foul language is not allowed on this forum)anyway two large dings high up on the right rear quarter panel, one of them the paint is broken.

    There used to be some outfits around here who specialised in fixing stone chips in the paint but I have not seen them in a while, I guess I will try fix the mark in the paint as best I can,it is not a big chip but to me at the minute it looks to be about two foot square.

    Called the paintless dent removal guy to take care of the dents, but because the panel is double skinned I had to remove the interior panels to get him some sort of access, hopefully tomorrow the dents will be gone.

    Needless to say my mood for a couple of days was foul, If I had found out who did it I would have beat the crap out of them.

    Cheers Pat.
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Pat,

    This story, purportedly true, happened to an aquaintance of mine in Detroit years ago and will make you feel better about the 'door dingers' of the world.

    He was in line at the grocery store and happened to look out where he'd parked his Civic when two huge guys got out of their Ford pickup next to it. The driver paused with the door open to look at the Civic, then said something to his friend as he twice banged to door into the Civic. They walked on into the store.

    The Civic owner walked out and found a nasty door ding in his Civic and briefly considered his options. Noting a tool crate with a couple hammers in the pickup bed, he drove the Civic to a parking lot around the corner and jogged back. He grabbed the hammer in a rage, and took a fast lap around the pickup, bashing every panel several times as he did so. Then he smashed out a couple windows before tossing the hammer onto the driver's seat and running back to his car.

    I do not reccomend this strategy, but it must have felt pretty satisfying, no?

    IdahoDoug (who hates door dingers, and has his own story too)
  • mharnissmharniss Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Patti, that eases my mind. Subaru has been good about fixing the car but it seemed so bizarre to have the radiator and the shortblock go out twice (in the same order each time)...especially since I haven't had any other problems. Thanks for checking into it for me. It's good to know that if it should happen again, Subaru might take into account the car's history.

    Mark
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    uh... so how about a story where the guy realizes it's just a machine and he forgives them for their carelessness?

    -Colin
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Hmmm...most of the dings on my subie are from the Jeep in MY garage!

    Like Colin said, it's just a machine. How can I not forgive my daughters?

    Jim
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Many years ago I was driving a week old black Lexus in California. An older man in an ancient car pulled in next to me and accidentally nudged the Lexus on his way in, scuffing the corner of my bumper down to the plastic. He was mortified and got out to look though he'd not noticed me in the car.

    I got out for a quick look and told him not to worry about it. I noted the WWII veteran plate on his car and asked him about it. We chatted for 10 minutes or so on a warm California Sunday morning and nothing else mattered. He told of incredible depravity, losing friends and what it was like to be under fire for days at a time. To him it was yesterday.

    I went on to meet friends at the coffee shop and he went off to his errand and we both took something from the incident. I hope some day when I'm 80 and scuff some young executive's fancy new car with my old LandCruiser I get treated the same way.

    IdahoDoug
  • luck11luck11 Member Posts: 425
    I have not lurked for some time.....current research is on a new rear projection TV so I've been on other boards.

    I'm no mechanic, but my 00 OB was in for a new timing belt adjuster (warranty) and resurfacing of front brakes...some pulsation (again warranty), and my service guys calls me to tell me that my pads are very thin and only about 30% left (pads usually replaced at 10%)!!! I only have 36,000 KMs on it!!! I drive 50/50 highway and city, and don't think I drive my car too hard. Is this normal?

    My service guy tells me I am better off changing now since my new pads will be going onto freshly surfaced rotors, therefore, significantly reducing on-going pulsation in the brakes. And because they've got the disks off for resurfacing, they are not charging me for labour...just the cost of the pads. I was considering trading the car in latter part of next year, as it nears 4 years old, but I don't think 20% brakes will last me that long, so I told him to go ahead. Still, it seems odd that the brakes wear so quickly. Is this common for Subs?
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    36K km or about 22k miles sounds a little short. I just replaced my pads on my 98 Forester S at 78K miles.

    However, my vehicle is a 5-speed and lighter so that may make a difference.

    I drive about 80% highway.

    Ken
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    It's typical with brake pads for them to always want to replace them for you. They're fast and loose with estimating the % (I've NEVER seen a mechanic apply calipers to estimate the thickness of a brake pad and then consult a chart of the original thickness, for instance). As a result, the general public is often disappointed that pads go so fast. I run mine to close to the backing plates because I do them myself and am constantly in touch with them. I suspect you're experiencing normal wear and abnormally early pad changes here.

    As to the pulsation, be advised that thinning the rotors with machining them is a textbook method for making them warp more easily. The correct way to fix this would be to apologize that the original rotors warped so easily and install a set of new thick rotors that are less likely to warp. Also, check for overtorqued lug nuts, which also cause warped rotors and are an epidemic in the fast paced vehicle service world....

    IdahoDoug
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Well the dings are gone and my mood is about normal, Colin I realise what you are saying but when you see people just fling the doors open with no regard for the vehicle beside them it is pretty hard to be forgiving.

    I take extremely good care of my car to the point where I make sure never to ding another car, I know how it feels when you come out and see a bloody great ding on a car that cost me a lot of hard earned dollars, and a lot of time and effort to keep in nice condition.

    It may be just a machine but to me there is never a good excuse for just pure carelessness.

    Cheers Pat.
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