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Comments
I think I knew how to test oil level (13 years of driving experience and owning 6 cars) until I came across double standard on Subaru.
My confusion questions regarding oil level messarment was base on Subaru manual, On one page that states that oil level needs to be tested when engine is cold. But on another page it is said that engine oil level can be tested on a warm engine just to allowed it to rest and to drain oil back down in a pan.
Regarding my statement that "I never saw a new car consuming oil", it is true. I owned brand-new 95 Tercel, 97 Altima, 03 Corolla and did not see any oil consumption on those cars. The only car that I had to add a quarter of oil per 1k miles was my 1974 Audi Fox with 425K miles on it.
I provided a number of the miles on my original message. Car is currently is only 7 months old and has 4.7k miles. I do check of all car fluids once every two weeks after car has been run and allow it to cool down for about an hour. Every time, my readings were fine, except to the moment when I decided to check oil level on the cold engine.
Thanks for your respond to my matter. Leo
bit
Check Subaruparts.com (select catalog) if you need to purchase an owner's manual.
Note: The maintenance schedule might be a separate booklet (than the owner's manual). It's probably easier to print it from Subaru.com.
Jim
click me
-Colin
The sound seems to be coming from the dash ( near the windshield)
Thanks for the information. I'll give both suggestions a try!
Ken
Hope this helps . Let me know how you made out.
Mike k
02 base obw
So I dugged up my '98 OB manual to verify them.
Old:
2.5l engine = 4.7 US qt / 4.5 litre
2.2l engine = 4.2 US qt / 4.0 litre
New:
2.5l engine = 4.2 US qt / 4.0 litre
2.0l engine = 4.8 US qt / 4.5 litre
What did they change in the 2.5l engine?
How come the 2.0l engine needs more than the 2.5l engine?
Even the coolant is up by a US qt on the 2.5l.
The 2.0l takes 8 US qt.
-Dave
For my money, the absolute best way to check the oil, especially with the pesky Sube flat 4 oil pan is this: At the end of the day, pull the dipstick out. The next morning, wipe it clean (again) and insert it fully, then pull it out to get a "clean" reading. It's just my speculation, but I think the Subaru dipstick housing is quite narrow and sloped and tends not to drain the oil trapped against one side of the dipstick. Removing the stick overnight (or for an hour, I guess) seems to help ensure the oil is out of the dipstick housing tube. That seems to be the source of the peskiness in my opinion.
Leo, I apologize for sounding a bit harsh in my earlier post.
IdahoDoug
the 2.0L probably has an oil cooler, that's the additional volume for it. or it could just be a different sump.
-Colin
mike k
The manual for the '03 Forester indicates that 5w30 is preferred. I wasn't pleased when I noticed on the window sticker that my dealer apparently used 10W40 at the first oil change. I took it to the dealer because I thought they would follow Subaru recommendations.
I'm changing to Mobil 1 synthetic this week at 6,500 miles, and I was planning to go with what the manual recommends, 5W30.
Subaru to replace the differential that is making this unbearable noise/whistle?
masan - Most 10W30's will protect better than a 5W30. 5W30 is "preferred" because of slightly better fuel economy. If you're switching to synthetic, it probably doesn't matter as much.
-Dennis
--jay
Since 5W30 flows slighlty better at cold temperatures, it should protect better in colder climates. Also, it should work better with newer engines since the tolerances are tighter.
Ken
There is no hard feelings. Thanks a lot for your advice. I just change the oil (last Monday) so there is no reason to check the oil level so soon again. I will try again in a few weeks by following your strategy.
Leo
I hope this doesn't sound too harsh, but you still seem to be missing my point. Here is my point: Check the oil level after the first time the car is run when you've changed the oil. That way you know EXACTLY how much oil is in the engine before putting miles on it.
As to the whistle. Open your hoods and look for a small box in the right rear of the engine bay labeled "FWD". Open it and put a fuse in the slot you see. Start the car and you're now operating in front wheel drive only. Go drive the car and see if the whistle is there. Since the rear differential is not getting any power, if the noise goes away, then it is either the rear drive shaft (unlikely), the rear diff (very likely) or a rear axle CV joint (somewhat less likely). If you're in a slippery area, take care as you do not have as much traction as normal and remove the fuse as soon as you've finished this test.
IdahoDoug
Ken
Yea the belts are new I'll go ahead and get a t belt I suppose, the car has about 50k on it.
and it's mileage and age; phaseII engines will do it also. they say the seal material has improved... feh.
-Colin
Luk
Bob
IdahoDoug
While the front cover and t-belt is off, how about the water pump? It's probably a little early, but it might make sense with a new t-belt in there.
Ken
Getting the uneven oil levels on both sides of the dipstick is fairly common with our Subaru engines. I always use the lower of the two readings as well.
Ken
-Dennis
We're taking the OB in about a half hour, then she leaves for PA and I am car-less until late tonight.
Then I gotta get tires. Still paralysed by the M+S / Summer indecision. Especially sice I haven't read exactly the most glowing reviews of any of the "summer" tires I can afford (712, ES100). May have to spring a little more cash and get those Proxxes or...aw hell, too many choices!!
Jim
Cheers Pat.
Jim
-Colin
hee hee
Happy New Year.
-mike
Jim
Ed
-mike
Ed