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Comments
The 'circuit' under the tape is known as a voltage divider. Using two resistors, some of the voltage output from the piezoelectric pickup is shunted to ground, reducing the signal that the ECU sees. By varying the ratio of the resistor values, you could tailor the reduction to anything you want (from 0% to 100%). Substitute a potentiometer (variable resistor), and you could adjust to your hearts content!
Does the 'kit' still require that you splice in the two leads? I am not crazy about such 'permanent' mods. If I were doing it, I would spring for some proper wiring harness connectors and make it a plug-in affair.
Steve
Nevertheless, the quirk is annoying! It seems all too often that I am feathering the gas to pull slowly out of a parking space, and the engine hesitates, has almost no power, and sounds almost like it is going to stall. So I keep slowly pressing the pedal further, until it finally lunges with power. The power delivery when it lunges seems rough and uneven, but gets better within a few seconds.
If this is in fact what others experience, and this fix does supposedly work, I would gladly pay $47 for it!
Any additional feedback is greatly appreciated.
Elliot
George
It may be OK, it means your ECU is eeking every last bit of power from the engine. If timing were set more conservatively, you'd be giving up some low end torque.
Ah, the things you learn when you own a Miata with manually adjustable timing! :-)
-juice
Anyone know more about how this works, and if these are available aftermarket?
Steve
Try some higher octane fuel to see if it clears it up. Even though our engines are designed to run on 87, there may be some outliers that will run better on higher octane fuel.
Ken
-mike
The odd thing is that I would not expect a cool engine to be suffering from pre-ignition (ping / light knock). Fuel instability usually only comes into play on hot engines, so I wonder what the knock sensor is really hearing when it fiddles with the timing?
Steve
--Jay
Recently I had a set of front brake pads installed and the mechanic says that in city traffic it is not unusual for this to take place after 20,000 miles, but he also told me that the Subie 2002 WRX wagon doesn't really need any upgrade to the factory braking system. I had suggested Brembo 4 pot system like the one they have on the STI high performance car. Does the quality of the brake pad help with the duration between service or just stopping power? I drive the car somewhat aggressively but not crazy. I like to test it's sportiness every once and awhile, and also commute to work about 50 miles a day 25 miles each way.
BTW, my Honda Accord had horrible braking issues, and after 150,000 miles I was sinking more money than a new car payment would amount to each month. I think Toyota and Subaru are much more mechanic friendly than Honda. I also had electrical problems in the Honda. Well thats all for now I love my WRX!
I've been having some problems with my 2000 OB breather coming loose and causing noise. I took it to the dealer last and they tightened it down, but it's come loose again and I'd rather do it myself than pay them again. Does anybody know where the breather is, or how I might do it?
Thanks
Eric
If you do decide to go with 4-pot brakes, you'll need 17" wheels too, also Brembos are $$$..
Regardless, if you paid for a repair yesterday and it's noisy they should fix it for free. Most repairs are warranted.
-juice
-juice
bit
What's the easiest way to drain and refill the coolant?
What's the easiest way to drain and refill the brake fluid?
I've done both in the past on previous cars, but know there must be some tricks that could make life easier.
Also, anybody know what to do with the old coolant?
Thanks,
Craig
Be prepared to get wet. 8~)
Jim
-juice
In addition, I used the ATE Super Blue brake fluid which is rated pretty highly. Plus it is blue which is usefull for determining when the old fluid is all pushed out of the system. They also carry ATE Gold for when you want to flush out the SuperBlue.
Bring the old brake fluid to a service station for recycling. Its less than a quart so they shouldn't have a problem taking it for you.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
I have Mobil 1 75w90 in my Miata's rear diffy and in the tranny too. I chose it because I can source it locally, some synthetics are mail order only and I didn't like not having access to more if I needed it.
-juice
What does this sound like?
I think Redline has a couple of varieties, but I'll let someone with experience with those products chime in.
-juice
My first guess is the wheel bearings are shot.
I was thinking front differential, but it's not limited-slip, so I dunno.
Make sure all 4 tires are the same size, and the pressures are equal. It's also possible that the center differential is seeing the front axle turn quicker or slower than the rear, and it's locking up.
Could be other things, I'll let others chime in with possibilities.
Seriously though, figure this out before you drive another inch.
-juice
What does this sound like?
-mike
Jon
-Frank P.
Jim
Someday, I'm going to build a power bleeder to make this a one person process!
Jim
-mike
I went to a local independent Subaru repair shop and they got a code PO420 catalyst efficiency low bank #1 message. At that time they reset the light and recommended that I replace the catalytic converter and also the 02 sensors.
I called the dealer where I purchased the car to ask about warranty. It covers 8 years and 80,000 miles on the catalytic converter. I drove it straight to the dealer. They said the catalytic converter tested out within normal range.
So now I feel like I'm driving a time bomb which will of course go off at 80,001 miles. The check engine light has not returned of course.
So - is there anyway for me to get this light to go on in the next 1500 miles or so, or does anyone know of a way to set the light on?
Another question - has anyone experienced anything like this with their Subaru before?
I am also doing an oil consumption test (the dealer has me checking the oil and noting where it is on the dipstick and I am to call him after 500 miles). At 350 miles the oil appeared to be halfway between full and low. What does that really represent? Is that a quart low, a 1/2 quart?
Thanks for your help
Kim
-Frank P.
Steve
-Water
Yeah I thought I would have better luck if I went to the independent mechanic. He was recommended by a good friend of mine - oh well. It's always something.
That is something I was wondering - are spurious codes possible?
I also wonder if the independent mechanic reported the costliest code he could find in order to make some money.
I will try to get the dealer to pay for it, since I reported the code once already, even if it is after 80,000 miles
Also, maybe let it warm up before you put too much load on the engine on those cold/wet days.
Steve: maybe some leaves in the HVAC? A loose bracket?
-juice
K
-Frank P.