Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

nygreg · October 2003

I agree with Pat. I wouldn't worry. As for the body shop - I tend to go with smaller establishments with good ratings on most things.

Greg

hondafriek · October 2003

I would also go with the shop that has the highest approval whether big or small, what you might also want to ask, is do they use a computer colour match system?

A lot of shops are now using this technology to get the best colour match on weathered paint, even though your car is only 3 years old and been well cared for there will be some fading of the paint.

And not to give you additional worry, white is a notorious colour to properly match, not saying it cannot be done, I have a painter who can match any colour just using his eyes and expertise.

Cheers Pat.

originalbitman · October 2003

Got the estimate on the truck...$6k. I'll post pictures of both vehicles later this week.

Thanks for the tip on the paint.

bit

scherberger · October 2003

Thanks for the tip re: rattle in dash.

Will try the suggestion ( am keeping my fingers crossed that it will work).

scherberger · October 2003

Have looked through postings for other issues and found success.Hope that someone is kind enough to help me out.

Am owner of Forester ( no longer under warranty). Have terrible rattle in dash ( right side; passenger air bag and behind) Was there since 2600 clicks . Dealer cannot seem to fix it. Now is evident on left side ( but not as loud and on occasion in the centre of the dash.

Noise seems to be near the front part of the dash ( near the windshield)

Noise is very loud when going over rough pavement( sounds like two pieces hitting together really fast ; almost not secured) Does not have to even be that rough ( could be manhole cover or joint on the highway)Is noticeable when driving normal city speeds ( 50 to 60 km and above)but is becoming more evident at slower speeds.

Typically , the dealer cannot duplicate the sound. One dealer told me that he heard it but did not know what it was. Nice!!!

Have removed everyting from glove box-- noise still persists. Hood seems to be secure.

Any help /thoughts / solutions would be greatly appreciated.

zman3 · October 2003

This may be a long shot but I had a rattle that I could not track down coming from roughly the same location you mentioned. I was convinced it was in the dash. Mine ended up being a broken strut mount. I could not detect any driving differences but it must have had a big enough defect to make the noise when loaded, like going over a bump.

ateixeira · October 2003

Check the exhaust heat shields, also. That's a common source of noise.

-juice

ballistic · October 2003

Have terrible rattle in dash ( right side; passenger air bag and behind)

My '04 XT has had the exact same severe low-frequency buzz in the same location (just under the surface of the dashtop in the passenger airbag area) since it was brand new last June. It doesn't rattle on really smooth pavement, but on slightly rough surfaces (especially on worn concrete where studded tires have exposed the pebbles), it's horrible. Haven't had time to get it back for warranty correction, but if the dealer is unable to eliminate this, it's going to be a major problem.

hondafriek · October 2003

Bit, they don't make trucks like they used to, but six grand is a lot, I sure would like to see some pics. of the damage.

Cheers Pat.

scherberger · October 2003

Thanks to all who offered suggestions re: dash rattle. Will try all tips.

Am keeping my fingers crossed that something will work.

mbnewhampshire · October 2003

After reading up on these subaru problems I noticed as far as I could see there were vitually no complaints on the all wheel drive systems. Curious as to whatever answers some may offer on the reliability of this type of system. Never have had AWD before, and am currently considering this type of system.
Is subaru's system superior to other AWD systems in other car brands? Are maintenence costs considerably higher than FWD? Are they more prone to problems because of the complexity than FWD vehicles?
Opinions are welcomed, but facts and experiences are more appreciated.

ateixeira · October 2003

Subaru has the most experience with AWD. They don't sell anything else, for almost a decade (1994 was their last year for FWD).

I'd put Audi in 2nd place, but they have lots of FWD models and aren't as focused on AWD. Think about it - Subaru mechanics know AWD inside and out.

Guess who scores better in long-term reliability? That is true despite Audi including 4 free years of dealer maintenance, and costing more to begin with. The proof is in the pudding.

-juice

njswamplands · October 2003

i had better start getting pudding again at the supermarket

dill6 · October 2003

My '02 WRX has exhibited it occasionally since new - I heard about the TSB so when I had the car in for its 30K service I asked the dealer about it. Answer: could not duplicate. Of course, I have only another few thousand miles now left on warantee.

Checked with another local dealer - they confirmed that they could not change out the clutch (per Subaru) unless they could confirm the problem themselves first. The service mgr. also offered that of the many requests they get to check this out, they are able to duplicate the problem only about 10% of the time.

My question is this - is this really even a big deal? How much damage, if any, is done when it does 'judder'? Presumably any damage would be to the clutch components themselves, perhaps some bearings or mounts - anyone heard of any premature failure of these type parts as a result of the infamous 'judder'?

I'm about ready to forget about it, unless there's some good reason not to - my car does it only rarely now (less than when new, I think, although it hasn't gotten really cold yet this year). Apparently Subaru doesn't consider it serious enough to issue a recall (though that would cost them a fortune, no doubt!)

What do you think?

originalbitman · October 2003

Not sure about long term damage but I decided to forget about it too. I have 44k on my GT and it has gotten no worse and no better since new.

bit

ateixeira · October 2003

55k miles on my original clutch, '98 Forester. On a very cold, damp day, it'll shake a little, but not too bad.

I've heard people complain about feel, but not longevity, at least not yet.

Call 800-SUBARU2 just to open up a case number. At a minimum open a "Customer Says" complaint, so it's documented if the clutch implodes 1 mile after the warranty expires (very doubtful).

-juice

georgeinmd · October 2003

My '99's gone 102k with bad shudder all the way. Doesn't seem to do any harm except to my nerves...

George

dill6 · October 2003

my gut feeling is this is not a significant problem, at least in my car. The 2nd dealer I talked also said nobody really made much fuss about it until the TSB came out, now everyone seems to want a "free" clutch. I'm going to drop it unless it suddenly gets worse, which I don't anticipate.

anyway - I have documentation on my 30K service receipt that I did mention it before the warranty expired just in case there is a sudden failure.

Its funny how one's perception of these things can change - once I started TRYING to MAKE it happen, in anticipation of taking the car in, I found it really doesn't happen much at all.

ebony5 · October 2003

Trying to decide whether I should go to the bother and expense of putting winter tires on my '96 Outback. When I bought the car used it had two sets of tires xw4s(still has good tread)& I think Cooper Winter Tires. I live in New York C

ateixeira · October 2003

Yeah, it's a TSB, not a recall. The TSB instructs dealers on how to evaluate the clutch, and if deemed necessary, replace it. It doesn't necessarily mean for free, though.

That last paragraph made me chuckle! Ain't that the truth?

It's like you call the TV repair guy and suddenly your TV never worked so well.

-juice

nygreg · October 2003

I guess it depends on how much you drive. NYC is pretty good a clearing snow and the OB with good tires might be all you need. Of course, considering the winter we had last year.......

Greg
following you through the boards.

ebony5 · October 2003

My above posting somehow went out prematurely. I drive upstate 1 or 2 weekends a month and hope to spend at least that much time if not more this winter in the Birkshires and Catskills. I called the dealer where I have work done on my car and it would cost $80.00 to put on the winter tires x 2=$160.00 more than I want to spend. The Service Adviser does not think it is necessary. Also I read in previous postings something about torque when having tires rotated or changed. What is the significence of this? If I remember correctly it had something to do with the rotors.

jlemole · October 2003

Hey Greg (NY): Are you switching back to M1 5W30 for winter, or are you staying with 10W30?

Jon

subearu · October 2003

I just changed the oil in my Outback a couple of weeks ago. I stayed with the 10w30 M1.

-Brian

jlemole · October 2003

Hey thanks Brian. I was wondering who else is running M1. I guess if the 10W30 is o.k. in a Wisconsin winter, should be no problem for a NJ winter.

Jon

cptplt · October 2003

ebony5 , are they talking about mounting and rebalancing a tire for 80 bucks each??? If they are run the other way! Most places charge only 15-20 bucks per tire!
You could always buy some Nokian WRs and then you'd have snowtraction in winter and the ability to drive them hard in summer too.

cptplt · October 2003

problems with the AWD are very rare, I have purchased 4 Subarus (still have 2) and have put on over 300K miles on them with one going out 10 years, none have had AWD problems.

mrk610 · October 2003

I just changed my oil today and I went back to 5w30 for the winter . I already had 5 quarts so instead of going out to get 10w30 I used what I had . I immediatly noticed that my piston slap was more pronounced on start up . I am going to Fla for thanksgiving so I'll keep the 5w30 in and when I get back I'll change back to 10w30 . I was also wondering if I could run 10w40 to see if I could quiet done the slap noise even futher .

Mike k
P.S also sent out oil for testing to see if the slap is hurting the engine .

c_hunter · October 2003

if the piston slap occurrs on startup in cold weather, then 10-30 and 10-40 will be pretty much the same (the "10" is what matters in cold startup, the oil won't hit 30 or 40 weight until the engine warms up). I would not run 10-40, since Subaru seems to primarilt recommend 30 weight oils.

Craig

nine51 · October 2003

<<Its funny how one's perception of these things can change - once I started TRYING to MAKE it happen, in anticipation of taking the car in, I found it really doesn't happen much at all. >>

I don't know how your clutch feels, but I hadn't heard about the clutch shudder problem before I bought my 02 WRX. After several months of having the h#!! shaken out of me on the first few shifts every morning, I started to do some research, and only then learned of the shudder problem on the WRX. I didn't have to try to make it happen. Believe me, I didn't want it to happen. Before the TSB I was considering trading the car off.

Maybe some of the 02's are worse than others. Mine was bad enough that the service manager at my dealer had no problem duplicating the shudder, and replaced the clutch as per the TSB at 33K.

The shudder first appeared at about 7K miles. I now have 11K miles on the new clutch, and it's smooth as can be. A great improvement.

ateixeira · October 2003

Cool, good to hear you're happy with the revised clutch materials.

-juice

ebony5 · October 2003

$80.00 for all four tires with mounting and balancing. I have Michelin xw4s with good tread on my '96 Outback (65,000k on it) so when the time comes for new tires I will reevaluate,the situation and probably seek advice here.

idahodoug · October 2003

Ebony,

I always consider the cost of snow tires as preventing a fender bender that would easily cost $1500. In the 8 years I've run them, there have been 2 situations where the prevented exactly that without question.

As for cost, around here they charge $30 to mount all 4, so double plus for the East Coast wouldn't be too far fetched. I switched to separate rims for $100 not to avoid the cost, but to avoid the inconvenience. For your vehicle, I see alloys all the time on eBay. At the first snow, you can't get your tires switched for 3-4 days due to the sudden rush. This way, I can install mine in about 30 minutes when it's going to snow.

IdahoDoug

bluesubie · October 2003

Didn't see a 10w40 M1 on Mobil1.com, so I compared 10w30 vs. 0w40.

10W30 has a thickness of 62 Centistokes @ 40C., and the 0W40 is 80 cSt. The latter is thicker at start-up.

I'm sticking with at least a 10W30 year round as well.

-Dennis

hammersley · October 2003

Deciding whether to switch to winter tires can also be influenced by the tire you're riding on now. My 'summer' tires on the OB are admittedly lousy in snow, so I switch. Tires on my wife's car are much better, plus they're siped, so we're going to try them (carefully) & see what happens.

Doug: snow tire season may be here sooner than you think - o'night lows in the teens by the weekend for you & me!

Cheers!
Paul

hondafriek · October 2003

I live in Ottawa Canada, and snow tires are a must, I put mine on at the weekend, I also have separate rims for convenience and cost,plus mounting and dismounting tires does not do the bead a hell of a lot of good.

Cheers Pat.

subearu · October 2003

Got the undercoating recall done today. Was done in about 1.5 hours.

They also did another recall (for which I didn't receive notice, nor did I have problems with) for the cold engine hesitation. If it makes 'em happy, I guess.

Then I treated the Outback to a set of new 'sneakers'. (I likely was feeling remorse for testing that MT XT while I was waiting). I put on 4 Tiger Paw Touring's. The OEM Wilderness' could have made it through the winter, but they were getting pretty close to the wear-bars.

-Brian

ateixeira · October 2003

Also, Papa Bear, when you sell it you want the buyer to know all the recalls have been completed.

-juice

hondafriek · October 2003

I got the notice for the anti corrosion recall,but, I did not get one either for the hesitation, I don't have the hesitation either but like juice pointed out you should have all recalls up to date.

Must give my dealer a call. SOBs. kept my car all day, said it took longer than Subaru made out, I knew it was BS but what can you do, we all know warranty work waits until the paying customers work is done.

Cheers Pat.

cptplt · October 2003

just wondering what people's thoughts were of running a FWD minivan with different sized tires front and back (215/70-15 front and 205/70-15 back, or I could do it the other way around too).

Is handling likely to be drastically affected?? It does have traction control, does that matter?

Why am I doing this?? Just being cheap. I have 2 sets of snows of different sizes and 2 of each 4some is worn too far to use but the other 2 are ok for another season!

subearu · October 2003

Yeah, Pat, my dealer was pretty up front with the time it required to do the undercoating. Really the wait is for the drying time. He did mention that if it's wet out, drying time would increase. Perhaps temperature might play into that as well.

Dennis/cptplt - 2 different sets of tires front->back might cause the ABS to act weird, as well as the traction control. I'd recommend getting a matching pair to complete the set.

-Brian

crashton6 · October 2003

I don't think you'd find any problems with the handling of the van with different size tires front & back. If that van has ABS brakes then you are in for a real surprise first time you stop. The ABS brain will think the smaller size tires are locking every time you stop. You won't like that much.

cptplt · October 2003

guess I won't be cheap!

[Deleted User] · October 2003

If you only put 500 miles a month on your car, half city and half highway, how long would your oil change interval be? Assume you're using a factory filter and Mobile 1 5W-30.

-Ty

bluesubie · October 2003

I think the manual has a timeframe as well as mileage. Something like 3,750 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first. Of course, you can use the normal driving schedule (7500 miles/7.5 months) with M1.

-Dennis

locke2c · October 2003

I wouldn't use 40 weight in a Subaru unless you were in a hot environment. The owners manual should show it's "acceptable" but the preferred are clearly 5w30 and 10w30.

My M3 drinks 7 quarts of either 10w40 mineral or 0w40 synthetic.

-Colin

hondafriek · October 2003

I am running 10-30 Mobil one year round and have had no issues.

Cheers Pat.

ateixeira · October 2003

10w30 dino oil here, never an issue on any car I've owned.

-juice

nygreg · October 2003

Sorry Jon. Haven't had time to check the board. I will stay with M1 10W-30 for the winter on both the OB and Sienna. The OB manual shows that 10W-30 is good to 0F. I figured synthetic will lower that number somewhat (still don't understand why it's rated 10W, but flows better than dino at low temp), it rarely gets below 0F where I live and I have a heated garage.

Greg

hondafriek · October 2003

I would like to have a heated garage also, but I should point out that if they use a lot of roadsalt where you live a heated garage is the absolute worst thing you can do for your car.

Salt is at its worst when the temperature is above freezing IE. heated garage.

Cheers Pat.

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