Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

msb22 · June 2006

I managed 36K out of the original tires on my 2002 Outback Wagon, then replaced them with a set of Nokian WR tires also, and now have them on all our cars. My regular commute is 100/miles day on Taconic Parkway in NY, prone to black ice, heavy snow, flooding rain, and 80mph commuters at all other times. We also run Nokian WR year round on my daughters Mazda3 which she drives back and forth between NY and Springfield, MO for school. I've gotten 52K out of a set on a Pathfinder, now have 40K on the Nokians on my Outback, think I'll get about 4-5K more before I have to replace them. I agree, they are a great tire, and for me have been stable in all weather at all speeds.

mayc · June 2006

Thank you for your advice. I am clueless about how to choose appropriate tires. Can you (or anyone here) recommend a good website where I can get some primer on this?

I live in Wisconsin and get a fair amount of snow. But I only drive less than 10 miles each way to work, on a nicely paved suburban road or free way... so I don't know if Nokian WRs would be an overkill or not.

justin · June 2006

Hi all - hope you can help. I have a 2006 Legacy sedan, 2.5i SE. Love the car, except for one major annoyance that is killing me. The front doors/windows are rattling/vibrating. I will be as precise as possible in desribing it:

Driving down the road, windows fully UP, there is a light to medium vibration in the door or window. Pressing on the top of the door panel (the black part of my two tone doors) stops the rattle. Lower the window not even an inch, noise is gone. Its a vibrating noise, sometimes a rattle. Had the dealer take off the door panels, add some insulation and grease, behind the spot that you press to make the noise stop. Didn't work. Its both front doors. It is not the typical wind noise from the mirror gussets.

What could this be? To me, since it only happens with windows all the way up, it makes me wonder if the windows go up too high or something? Seriously, the noise stops if you lower the window just a smidge. Almost just enough to the point where air and or water still wouldn't get in past the rubber seals on the body of the car.

Dealer is annoyed with me, I am annoyed with the car, and on my last legs here. Anyone have the same experience? Get it fixed successfully? I have tried posting on a Legacy specific site, but no one has the problem, or they do any they don't care about it. I will admit, I like my cars not to rattle when they only have 2000 miles on them. I know others expect rattles in cars with framless windows...but I really don't think I am asking too much for them to be quiet for at least awhile....:)

Thanks for any advice/feedback you could give! I can't believe I am the only one out there with this problem, but I guess its possible.

justin · June 2006

Should I cross post this in the Legacy specific board here on Edmunds, or is that a no-no?

locke2c · June 2006

Yes, you can install a heavy-duty clutch. I would get a stronger pressure plate but keep the stock disc, or use an aftermarket disc that is also organic material. You must keep a full-face clutch disc; don't install a racing puck clutch as those are impossible to modulate for towing.

I can't recommend something specific however, since I haven't been a Subaru owner for some years now.

~Colin

pathtomax · June 2006

My 2001 Outback Limited has two 'speaker looking' built-ins along the rear hatch panel. Are they actual speakers or just for show? I tailgated this weekend and didn't hear anything out of them. :P

tdg · June 2006

Justin,

I just wanted to confirm your issue - not that this will be a huge help. I have an '06 Legacy Limited Sedan - but pretty much the same car. I have no problems with my windows rattling, so this is definitely out of the ordinary (or mine is, but I doubt it). I think the dealer was pretty good about trying to help, but it seems like the weather stripping may not be installed correctly. I only say this because if you crack the windows and it goes away, the windows themselves are probably fine. It's just the way the window seats to the top of the door frame that is the issue. See if you can get the weather stripping replaced.

Good luck.

justin · June 2006

Right, I figure its something to do with how the window sits on the weather stripping, or maybe that the window track doesn't like being in the all the way up position for some reason? I have looked at the weather stripping. Its brand new, nice and soft and full. Maybe I should try lubing it with something?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

Only if you don't get a response after 3-5 days. Otherwise, I think you're better off here. It's even better to repost in this forum if you get no response.

lilbluewgn02 · June 2006

Is it any biggie or just a glorified oil change?
Serge

xwesx · June 2006

I doubt Nokians would be overkill, even if short commutes. Slick is slick, even if just for a moment. If you wanted to stretch your tire purchases a bit more, you could go with a summer or all-season with a higher treadwear rating, something like 80K miles, and a second set of dedicated winters (mounted on separate rims) for the prime winter or even a set of lower treadwear Nokians for the winter "season."

Granted, tires like the OEMs can "get you by," you will feel and appreciate a marked difference with something more adept at snow and ice. Tirerack.com can provide you a breadth of information.

xwesx · June 2006

I have to wonder if the gap where the window travels through the door frame is a little too wide for some reason, or if a bushing that should be there is not. Of all the window positions at which you might have a vibration/rattle, fully UP is the most unlikely. It makes me think that once the glass has exited the window as much as it will, the hardware in there is just not holding steady. Wild theory, yes.

kavoom · June 2006

Thank you very much. This is very helpful. Now I just have to find the after market parts for an 04 Forester. It seems that only the Australians make this kind of stuff...

locke2c · June 2006

Actually ACT, Exedy and others make clutches compatible with your Forester. They market towards the Forester XT owners, but I am reasonably sure it has the same type of clutch as the Forester X (maybe a bit stiffer stock).

Examples here (just a google result, I've never used this retailer):
http://www.gruppe-s.com/forester/fortrn.htm

~Colin

rob_m · June 2006

SB the same as a 15k service - glorified oil change at about $229. Rob M.

andytnj · June 2006

I need to replace the turn signal bulb on my '99 Outback, but cannot get the light assembly out. I've removed the screw on top but cannot figure out what else holds the assembly in place. It is the right front assembly, fwiw.
Thanks

rockysouth · June 2006

anyone know the easiest way to get rid of the chime when you don't have your seatbelt hooked up? i have a 2006 outback xt. thanx

cptplt · June 2006

Tirerack.com have lots of info about tires, also Consumers reports occ does good article about what to look for.

zman3 · June 2006

Do a search on "chime" in this forum. It has been discussed several times and I used the info here to disable mine.

Karl

rockysouth · June 2006

thanks for the advice.

kavoom · June 2006

Thanks for the info. I've been looking for a year and the X clutch and the XT clutches are NOT compatible or I would have gone in a minute. There is plenty of stuff for before 2003 models, but once the XT's came out it appears that most have just forgotten the X. Oh Well, I have to do it NOW, so I will go with OEM.

Oh, this is going to hurt so bad, I have an estimate of around 800.

locke2c · June 2006

Bummer! So you've talked to ACT themselves? It is hard to imagine that the Forester X clutch is that different from the older naturally aspirated clutches, and ACT was selling clutches for Subarus back in at least 1998.

~Colin

ateixeira · June 2006

Get a Chase Subaru credit card, it'll ease the pain. You get 3% back in what they call "Subaru Bucks".

I've spent $300 in Subaru Bucks, and have another $600 saved up. You can use it for service, parts, accessories, etc.

Here's the kicker - even the body shop at Fitz accepted them, so I used $200 for that and pocketed the cash from the other guy's insurance co. KA-CHING! :shades:

-juice

jessr · June 2006

My 2001 Subaru Forester has been a nightmare with a long, depressing and very expensive history. It was towed last week to a Subaru repair shop almost an hour from me. I had an appointment for them to look at it on June 23rd. They didn't pull it in until June 26th, diagnosed an internal head gasket problem. They have been waiting since Monday, this being Wednesday, to hear from Subaru for authorization for coverage/payment. I have called the 800 Subaru number, have a case number, but am getting nowhere. I have no car. No one seems to care. They just keep saying, "when we know something we'll call you."

Can someone please, please help me?

Thanks.

ateixeira · June 2006

There was a letter sent to most owners of 01s a while back, did you get one? It called for installing a coolant additive, and once you did, they offered warranty coverage for 8 years or 100k miles.

Hopefully you got it and had the stuff added.

If not, well, maybe that's what they're trying to find out now. Will your dealer provide you with a loaner?

-juice

cloudiness · June 2006

I have a '97 Impreza Outback (152k) with automatic transmission. The problem is that it is sluggish shifting from first to second gear. Only second gear gives the problem. The problem is much worse the colder the weather. The shift improves after driving it around for a while. I had the tranny flushed at the dealer last summer. Even before the flush, the fluid was a healthy color (still reddish), so I assume it had been taken care of reasonably well (I bought the car used last summer).

Any ideas what the problem might be?

Mr_Shiftright · June 2006

With all those miles, I'd guess hard seals in the transmission or a worn valve body. This sounds like normal old age, as the unit is nearing its normal life span (statistically speaking I mean, not Subaru automatics per se).

jessr · June 2006

Yes, I installed the coolant additive. After that, I had my left head gasket replaced, which was warranted. Now my internal head gasket is the problem, according to them.

I'm shocked at how uncaring the person at Subaru of America is. He said he'd call the repair shop on Friday. He didn't. He didn't call until I called him again, on Tuesday. When I called him this morning, Wednesday, he said something like he didn't want to bother the people at the repair shop, because they are busy in the morning. He definitely cared more about disturbing them than about helping me.

I've completely had it with Subaru and will never own one again. I'm going back to Toyota - I should never have left them in the first place.

kavoom · June 2006

Well, I have a new OEM clutch.

That hurt but it was my fault. Don't take an 1800 lb trailer down into a campground at the bottom of a hill with only one way out. I finally had to get pulled out. Stupid Stupid Stupid. Not thinking... "trailer behind me stupid you can't do normal things."

The mechanics had never seen anything quite like it. I turned the metal deep blue noticable particularly around the inner part and the springs so the temper was blown on the disk...and the springs. That was why it got "mushy" quick and the release was wierd it was happening more often with any load at all.

And I got it so hot that I warped the disk but... and this was most confusing was that most of the actual clutch material was still there. They couldn't figure that out. Normally it is toast. But what was happening was that only about the outer 1/4 inch of the clutch was "biting" (it was thin right around the edge) and since the temper was gone on the disk it would heat up quite quickly and the warp would change and the rest of the clutch would grab.

That was why I was getting this slipping and then feeling the clutch bite after it heated up almost like an auto tranny shifting.

Now remember, I know how to drive a clutch as I got 147K and 123K respectively out of my last two clutches (previous Subys/without a trailer). I may have feathered it trying to come (and keeping the truck from ripping my front end off...up) just so...that I protected the clutch material, while cooking the metal. Difficult to do I gather.

I have learned an expensive lesson and provided others with a unique experience. I would prefer to avoid the pleasure in the future...but clutches are cheaper than transmissions.

But as long as I don't do anything too stupid again, I feel confident in the OEM clutch for a trailer.

ateixeira · June 2006

clutches are cheaper than transmissions

Quite true, though the Subaru automatics actually tend to be sturdier than the clutches. They can handle more power and last longer, on average.

-juice

samiam_68 · June 2006

Automatics are preferrable when towing. Less jerkiness and the torque converter provides the necessary slippage by design.

subaru2005 · June 2006

At various, sometimes-unpredictable times my car vibrates and sounds like a motorcycle. I have taken it to two dealers who have aligned it and balanced it but have not been able to replicate the problem. One dealer told me that I should change the rims at a cost of $500 and see if the problem continues. I do not buy this as the steering wheel does not shimmy the engine vibrates and sends the vibrations and noise through the seats, floor and the entire car. The car sounds like a motorcycle or a low flying pane during the period that it is vibrating. This happens between 40 and 80 miles per hour. What could be the cause? What should the dealers look for and fix?

brewce · June 2006

I just bought a used 2003 Forester 2.5 XS with 13k miles on clock. I checked all fluid levels and found the transmission fluid was over-filled. The manual says clearly "do not overfill".
I pumped out a litre of fluid -- it was clear and slightly pinkish on the stick, dark red in the receiving jar. The level was then OK -- i.e., between the lower two holes with a cold engine. I ran the car around the block. The level dropped a bit to the lowest hole - I put 0.1 liter of fluid back in and felt happy. I checked fluid level the next day, after 10 miles; it was fine -- i.e., between the two bottom holes when was engine cold.

After two weeks and 150 miles, lo and behold ... the fluid level is up once more -- it's above all 4 holes when the engine is cold ! What's going on ? Where does this fluid come from ? What should I do next ? Take out still more ?

Thanks for any advice -- brewce (new poster)

once_for_all · June 2006

it's this guy sneaking in at night ateixeira, "Subaru Crew: Problems & Solutions" #6564, 8 May 2006 9:54 am

John

subaru2005 · June 2006

At various, sometimes-unpredictable times my car vibrates and sounds like a motorcycle. I have taken it to two dealers who have aligned it and balanced it but have not been able to replicate the problem. One dealer told me that I should change the rims at a cost of $500 and see if the problem continues. I do not buy this as the steering wheel does not shimmy the engine vibrates and sends the vibrations and noise through the seats, floor and the entire car. This happens between 40 and 80 miles per hour. What could be the cause? What should the dealers look for and fix?

samiam_68 · June 2006

Are you checking the fluid level with the engine off?

samiam_68 · June 2006

Are you checking the fluid level with the engine off?

zman3 · June 2006

Bingo!!!!!!

I had the same issue with my 98 OB after having the tranny flushed. No where did it say to check the level with the engine off (at least not that I could find). Once I checked it with the engine off (and cold too, I think) it was right on.

Let it cool off and then measure it and see how it is.

Karl

ateixeira · June 2006

Vibrations - my guess? Broken motor mount (especially if there is shake when you're not moving). But also have the wheel bearings inspected, if it's speed-dependent I bet that's it.

brewce: you have a miracle car that produces ATF. You should sell the stuff.

Just kidding, I have no idea why the level would read that high. I wonder what the proper procedure is for checking the ATF level? Warm or cold? Make sure the parking surface is level.

And yes, I actually did have a CHIPMUNK in my engine bay, he chewed up some wires on both my and my wife's Subarus. I had to replace plug wires and an ignition coil!

-juice

brewce · June 2006

Thanks for your input zman3 and samiam. All the info I gave in the post was obtained with the engine turned off. And in most cases quite cold: except in the case where I did that first run around the block (engine was off but half-warmed up).

This latest measurement was with the engine stone cold ... but still the fluid level was above all 4 holes on the dipstick -- i.e. above the level it would be at if the engine were hot! I still have the 0.9 liter of fluid in a jar on the shelf, so if someone is sneaking in to the locked garage at night, they are bringing their own AT Fluid with them !!

Do either of you know why it is important not "to overfill" with ATF ? Can I damage something by having too high a level? Or can I just let it be till I finally figure out what the heck is going on here?

puzzled brewce

xwesx · June 2006

I wonder if you are getting some excessive drain-back from your torque converter. I usually, though this may not be correct, start the car, put the transmission in R, N, D, N, R, then back to park (about 5 seconds-ish each) and turn the car off. I let it sit for about 10 minutes or so and then check it. That way the bulk of the fluid has drained back down and everything is still "cold." Drain-back from the torque converter is typically somewhat slow. That is just me though. It looks like your situations were similar, but your results were wildly different! Send that critter to me for a while, I need to stock up some ATF for a fluid change this summer.

samiam_68 · June 2006

I thought auto transmissions are supposed to have their fluid checked with the engine running and fully warmed up?

jfl · June 2006

The Service Manual, Section 1, Legacy/Outback for Model Year 2000: Chapter 1-4, A: Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Level

"The ATF should be maintained at the proper level as follows:
1) Drive the vehicle several miles to bring the transmission to the normal operating temperature. 60 to 80°C (140 to 176°F) is normal.
2) Park the vehicle on a level surface.
3) While idling the engine, move selector lever to all ranges. Then return to P range.
4) Remove the level gauge and wipe it clean.
5) Reinsert the level gauge completely.
6) Remove it again and note it's reading."

The above is typed verbatim from the manual. I think the reading is taken with the engine idling. (Sorry, but I'm too lazy to run down to the garage to check the Owner's Manual.)

Jim

Edit: Sam types faster than I do and he's more succinct.

lfdal · July 2006

I've never seen a car yet where you're not supposed to check the transmission fluid hot. The procedure is always the same - get car hot, park on level space, shift through all the gears a couple of times, giving each gear time to engage before shifting to the next one.

Then check the stick.

I've never seen an exception to this rule - some sticks are easier than others, some do give you a "cold" mark for when the transmission's not been run long enough to get to full operating temperature. But in all cases the engine's running.

The dipstiick on my 04XT is a nightmare. After about 20 times I finally came up with a way to do it that doesn't either burn my arm, torture the adjacent lines to the dipstick hole, or smear the fluid so I can't get a good reading.

BTW - on most of the later 04EAT's including the Forester's (which is slightly different), if you do a warm drain and fill you'll use about 3.5 quarts so it really doesn't change much of the fluid at all.

Also, I think someone already said to check for a nice red/pink fluid. It shouldn't smell burned, and it definitely shouldn't be brown (as was my FXT's @ 28000 mi). That was where I got to perfect my stick reading technique since I did 4 drain and fills in 3 weeks, until the fluid was the right color again.

Last piece of tranny fluid (ATF) trivial pursuit info - its basiclly 10w oil, colored so that when it overheats or loses it lubricity it will turn brown.

HTH

Larry (Who saw an 06 OBW in blue that's making my wife forget about piston slap in her 03).

ricoh · July 2006

My '00 Forester has started to misfire. It only occurs when decelerating, not when under load and not when cold. When I decel from about 4K rpm to 3K and then lightly touch the gas pedal a single misfire can be heard. Sometimes occurs with shifting of gears (manual tranny). Per mechanic, no error codes on scan. New wire set and plugs have not helped at all. Runs great otherwise. Any help appreciated.

Rich F.

kvanert · July 2006

My husband left my keys partly turned in the ignition last night and when I went to start the car, the battery was dead. We jumped and ran the car and everything seems to be working fine except the spedometer and the RPM gauge remain at zero and the outside temperature gauge is blank. Has this ever happened to anyone?

samiam_68 · July 2006

Probably a blown fuse.

frameless · July 2006

took my daughter's car in for its' yearly inspection and the mechanic told me the power steering fluid needed to be flushed and refilled. does this sound legitimate?

samiam_68 · July 2006

How about telling us a little more about the car.. like make, model, year, mileage, etc...

kudelka · July 2006

Hi, I am new to this site but have a Subaru question. I have a '98 Impreza and the auto door locks keep going on and off several times by themselves. Doesn't seem to be any pattern to it. Can anyone offer a clue? Thank you much.

CK

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