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-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
A couple weeks ago I had the dealer change my timing belt and replace the tensioner, which was starting to sound like the bearings were failing. My 2002 OBW has around 99,000 miles on it. Now this past weekend coolant has started to drip from the underside of the engine. I know it started on friday because I could not have missed it. Too much smoke/steam (not oil smoke) when I stopped. I'm not as familiar with the engine layout as I should be, so I'll describe it. I could not see anything leaking while looking down on the engine or from underneath where the oil filter is. It has be be leaking from the "rear" of the engine, on the bottom. That's where I can see the drips coming from. Also dripping onto the exhaust and evaporating. When the engine is hot, it drips around 1 drop per second.
I brought it in to the dealer, who has been good with service so far. Is it possible that they caused this when they changed the timing belt? I like to be educated when I talk to them, maybe that's why they've been good on service with me so far.
Good luck solving it.
Contact 1-800-SUBARU3 and address it with them.
Spoke to the dealer and they confirmed that it's the driver's side head gasket. they've opened a case with Subaru and have told me that they will take my side since they know me and my car (and my father bought a subaru there before I bought mine).
at this point, what is the chance that subaru will help out with the cost and what else can I do to push it along? I will call the 1-800-subaru3 number when I get home to give a little more heat to the situation.
Not that any time is a good time for this to happen, but it could hardly have been worse timing. My wife is 8 months pregnant with our first. We have all kinds of classes and Dr appointments this week. Her shower is this weekend. We're getting hit with a winter storm tonight. and our AWD is down for the count. If this had happened next week, she would be off for winter break (teacher) and we would only need 1 car.
I know that someone from Subaru at lease used to participate here. Do they still watch these boards? Just wondering if there's another avenue that I can use to put pressure on Subaru?
By comparison, The Land Rover folks (who were strangely silenced as soon as I told them I was comparing their LR2 to an outback :confuse: ), claim their LR2 can handle 22" or so deep water without problems.
However, Land Rover also do not say whether or not this dunk and drive will void their warranty.
As for a specific height? There is no limit, however if you suck in water to your intake and hydrolock your engine, don't expect any manufacturer LR or Subaru to cover the repair costs. Or to pay to replace anything like a MAF/MAP that may have been damaged by the water.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
As for LR2, I can just see somebody drive in to 21 inches of water only to see leaks in floorboard, etc. pouring water into the cabin, BCM and all the electronics.
Like you said, that would void the warranty for sure.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Very impressive.
Then I watched as the owner opened the doors and muddy water poured out.
Not so impressive.
I doubt the door seals will hold out water for long. Maybe a splash, but 22" deep water will flood that gorgeous interior.
This Forester looks in as deep as the floorboards:
http://photofile.ru/photo/stalwork/2094433/large/34282883.jpg
And this one looks deeper than that, but notice the snorkel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcbpJL0yfm4&feature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2vL8nMjaGWw&feature=related
But no snorkel on this one making the same trip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gy4Z2ZQ8kI4&feature=related
I do recall, at least on the "original" LRs, there are holes on the floor pan to take on and drain water so the LRs won't get floaty in deep waters.
It's funny how they took the outdoorsy image and took it way upscale, which is pretty much incompatible with the muddy trails it was originally intended for.
Ruin that gorgeous wool carpeting!
"We cannot provide you with an exact depth of water that would cause problems to a Subaru Outback or Forester vehicle and could affect the warranties on the vehicle."
"A Subaru vehicle is neither a conventional off-road vehicle nor an all terrain vehicle. It is a passenger car designed primarily for on-road use. However, both the Outback and Forester models are equipped with an AWD System and have increased ground clearance, which allows for some off-road usage. "
"Drive slowly and completely through the stream. The water should be shallow enough that it does not reach the vehicle's undercarriage. Water entering the engine air intake or the exhaust pipe or water splashing onto electrical parts may damage your vehicle and may cause it to stall."
"Ground clearance specs for 2008 Forester models:
8.1 inches - Forester 2.5X models
7.9 inches - Forester 2.5XT models
Ground clearance specs for 2008 Outback Wagons:
8.4 inches - Outback 2.5i and 3.0R Wagons
8.7 inches - Outback 2.5XT Wagons."
So, my guess is as long as you don't go deeper than their ground clearance, you are probably all right.
No fording rivers with these!
Mine was fine after this. In fact we did this Pine Barrens fun run in 2001, the weekend after 9/11, and I kept that Forester for 6 more years without any problems.
We drove through at speed, though, that splashes up a lot of water.
A guy with a Subaru XT6 sucked water in his intake and it stalled the engine. They actually fixed it on the spot - remove the plugs, spray in WD40, run the starter to evaculate the water. Good as new.
He blew a clutch later in the day.
So 4" of clearance was not enough, 7.5" was enough.
Hahah, yeah, it makes a big difference. I cannot remember what that '96 had... 6-something I think. I always punch the puddles at 15-20 - water and mud everywhere. Fun stuff.
My van has 5" of clearance, but I will not let that stop me this spring.
My solution: I moved from MI to CT. I haven't had the problem all year. Last year in MI I switched to filling up at a busy gas station and I began running premium. It was much better, but still happened occasionally. My understanding is that MI requires a slightly different gasoline formulation in the winter vs the summer. CT may not.
After trying everything, I believe the problem is with the car and is in the electrical system. The issue happened most exclusively when the car was washed or run on wet roads. CT doesn't get any snow near the coast so I am always on dry roads these days. It happened once after I washed the car and put it in the garage wet. Thus, if the problem is spark when wet that would explain why a different gas formulation (with perhaps less ignitability) would effect the ability to start cold as well as the switch to premium fuel, and the issue with water.
Good luck.
Any suggestions as to what it might be?
What, if anything, can be done to minimize Subaru Turbo Lag?
Or do we have to wait for Direct Injection from Subaru to fix this glitch?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
If you have an auto, and stab the gas, the throttle-by-wire first interprets your input, then sends a signal to the ECU to acceleration, which then sends a signal to the auto trans to shift down, which then shifts, which then has to build a load before the turbo will spool, which then spools the turbo, which then boosts the engine.
There's your delay.
With a manual the process is a whole lot quicker. Shift down and hit the gas: bye-bye.
I'm looking forward to the 3.6L engine in the next itteration to see how that does
-mike
Sounds like Rowing a manual and keeping engine above 4K would fix that, but sorry, for me that's also no fun in heavy traffic.
Now on the track, hi reving + manual = fun :shades: No track to work here though, save the railed TRIMAX one.
Exactly why I bought an Outback 3.0R instead of the GT wagon. Though it would have been nice to have had the better brakes and lower ride height of the GT.
It wasn't turbo lag you'd experienced city driving. It's auto transmission lag.
Stumping on the gas pedal compounds the lag.
Turbo in full boost + city traffic = crash
-Dave
The outback auto's not the only sluggish one out there - the '08 Rav4 AWD proved only marginally better, and it had a V6. But at least it doesn't surge in city traffic.
I've read twin-screw turbos have much less lag, but Subaru ain't got none yet :sick:
Having a twin-scroll may minimize the AT lag, but probably not the turbo surge.
As to surging. If you're referring to turbo surge, the number one no-no with driving an AT turbocharged in city traffic is feeding more gas to get over the AT lag. More gas higher rev. The beast awakens.
Remedy:
1. Drive a NA engine with good displacement.
2. Change driver type.
3. Tune engine to driver liking.
I did 2 and 3 with my '03 WRX 4EAT. To date, no city traffic complains or white knuckle situation.
-Dave
I remember reading on another forum... :confuse:
If you have a required emission inspection you will fail the test with such an indication. In addition your fuel economy may degrade if the cat is plugging.
If the light starts blinking, it's a more serious problem that you have to fix ASAP. A solid light is a warning, though I agree the cat may get plugged up and the engine could stall if ignored indefinitely.
Other than replacing the whole gasket, is there a fix (sealant/glue?) that anyone can recommend to repair those small holes
Thanks
Without actually seeing what is going on, my guess would be ---
- and there's no guarantee offered or responsibility taken for this suggestion -
Insert the clip back into the weather strip, then use the "krazy glue" on the rubber edges that split, and pinch the weatherstrip together so the edges close back together and around the clip.
Hold for about 10 - 20 seconds and then release, and the holes should be well closed and the t-clips held in place again.
Wait at least 2 - 5 minutes for the glue to thoroughly dry before remounting the weatherstrip.
Be very careful not to touch the glue itself or it will weld the rubber stripping or t-clip to your fingers. To be safe, keep some nail polish remover or acetone handy as that will dissolve the glue (but don't let removers touch the paint !! )
Good luck!
I had not thought about krazy glue at all. The worst that can happen is that it wont work and I will end up getting a door gasket so it is worth a try
Cheers!
Paul