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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    I would stay away from synthetic in the manual trasmission unless you race the car. The shifting with synthetic will become very notchy because it doesn't have enough friction for the synchronizers to engage smoothly.
  • ronaries10ronaries10 Member Posts: 64
    A very aggressive service shop & mechanic, and a son who trusted them - that's why it would get done.
    Not every Subaru specialist (in Seattle, at least) can be trusted.
  • pauladpaulad Member Posts: 14
    it has $49K miles on it--check engine light came on--took it to the dealer--they had it for a week--and said it was the EGR valve--got the car--next day--light comes on again--I told them I think it was the transmission--because the car was barely making it up hill--going staright--it didn't sem to be switching gears right--once it did it was fine...
    took it back to the dealer--they said it was the turbo--thank goodness for the warranty..they replaced that too--it wasn't the turbo--then the said it was the head gasket--changed that--still not working--now, they are working on get parts--they are 'back ordered, but they are being secretive--Great I'm getting a whole new car at their expense--but it has been at the dealership --4 of the 5 last weeks...what should I do...what if they can;t fix it?
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    I beg to differ :) . Have had Amsoil 75W-90 in the transmission/front differential and rear differential ('98 OBW Ltd 5spd) since 60,000 miles (now at 113,000+ mile). Did not make the shifting "notchy".

    MNSteve
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Does the brand of synthetic matter? The shop I'm contemplating uses Mobil1, but I could do it myself with RedLine, AmsOil, Castrol, whatever - or have the shop use owner-provided one of the above...

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mobil 1 is a low end synthetic IMO. I'd stick to Redline, Amsoil or Royal Purple. As for a synthetic for the ATF, I'd stick with Subaru OEM stuff, ATs are very sensitive to the fluid. While it's under warranty I'd use the OEM stuff, that's what I do in my Armada that runs Amsoil in the diffys and transfer case. I did have very good luck with Redline High Temp ATF in my 96 Impreza Race car with an AT, and my SVX with the AT.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    PS: I've put Amsoil and Redline in 100s of cars and never had the trans get notchy.

    -mike
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    If you go to page 16 of the "Subaru issue turbo STOP SALE on certain 08-09 models" topic in the forums of the nasioc.com web site, you will find an updated posting, apparently taken from subarunet, that states:

    "there was a small possibility of an “Engine Knocking Noise” caused by a contamination in the area of the connecting rod big end journal at very low mileage/time in service."

    The bulletin goes on to say that the engine oil of the VIN - identified units must be tested for copper contamination. If there is excessive copper in the oil, the engine is damaged and an E-QMR is to be issued.

    I wonder if I have to ask, or if Subaru will ask me, to get my engine inspected? :confuse:
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Thanks, Mike. It's the '99 MT. I'll go with Redline or AmsOil - that's the direction I was leaning, based on lots of good advice from here.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Redline make a special gear oil for trannys. It's a 75w-90NS that has fewer slip agents than their regular GL-5 gear oil. They claim the synchros work better with it.
    It's what I use in the gearbox.
    Jim
  • martijnhmartijnh Member Posts: 24
    All:

    Would like to sollicit the advice of the resident experts here. I have a 2000 OB Ltd wagon. Discovered this morning that the front sunroof no longer opens. However, when I press the sunroof switch, I hear the electric motor run. The rear sunroof opens up fine. Also, after trying to open the front sunroof by pushing the sunroof switch, I can push it open by hand. The electric motor then does close it when I push 'close' on the sunroof switch.

    So, I'm thinking there is some gear/belt/etc that is not pushing the front sunroof open. I think the motor, etc., still works properly. However, where do I start to fix this? Anybody any experience with this part of the car? Would very much appreciate your input. Thanks!!!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, you would be hearing the noise if yours was afffected.

    If you'd feel better, call 800-SUBARU3 and ask that they conduct the test on your engine.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Well the dealers have to get kits first. I'll see if mine actually contacts me in a few weeks regarding this issue. But so far I've not heard any really unusual noises (the air pump does make some racket when the motor first starts, though).
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You mean fuel pump? A small "whirrrrr" is normal.
  • flyboysmbflyboysmb Member Posts: 2
    I have a 95 legacy & it is doing the same thing. My fuel injection is due to be serviced, it has been a while since I have done that. Have you ever serviced your fuel injection? I have tried the fuel injection cleaner to the gas, but it still seems fuel starved. It caused my "check engine" light to come on, but then it went off & it has continued to stay off. I will let you know how it runs after cleaning the fuel injectors.
    Steve
  • pauladpaulad Member Posts: 14
    well--I have the 06 subaru legacy DT--the check engine light came on--they changed the ERG (?) valve--not that--then the turbo--not that--then the head gasket--not that--now they are changing the whole engine--an 06 with 49K miles--good thing it is under warranty (oh, and they have had it for 6 weeks now--at the subaru dealer) I do not have confidence that they know what they are doing--is there any lemon law for new cars?
  • flyboysmbflyboysmb Member Posts: 2
    So,
    I had the fuel injectors cleaned at an Oil Changers & at first glance, I would say the problem may be gone! However, the check engine light came on while they were doing the service.

    Will let you know more after I drive it for a few days.
    Steve
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    "is there any lemon law for new cars?"

    Varies by state. Your profile says you're in NY, which does have a lemon law. Here it is from the NY attorney general:
    http://www.oag.state.ny.us/consumer/cars/newcarlemon.pdf
    However, your '06 is two years old and has nearly 50k miles, so it's well beyond the new car limit of 18k miles, if I'm reading the law correctly.

    First thing to do anyway is to open a file with Subaru Customer Service at 1-800-782-2783.
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    Hi Juice and crew,

    Hope all is well with you. Been a long time. The 2001 Black Beaner is still running great at 117K miles - still tight, smooth and reliable.

    Had a fogging problem last month and noticed the air conditioning seemed weak. Brought it to my Subaru shop and they cleaned out debris in the fan air path for $200. The fan was more powerful, but it was too cold to see if the air was working. Now with warmer weather, I know it didn't help.

    I had a 96 Accord that I re-charged myself using a $8 can. Can I do the same with the 01 V6 Outback or do I have to go to the shop for a professional charge?

    Thanks!

    Ralph
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm really not sure.

    The A/C went out on my 91 Escort and cost me $700. :cry:

    That's more than the option cost when the car was new - it was a $490 option. :(

    Did you check scoobymods?
  • otis123otis123 Member Posts: 439
    Thanks Juice. WOW - this place has changed! How do I get to scoobymods?
    Thanks,
    Ralph
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    URL is easy to guess. I'm not supposed to link directly to other sites from Edmunds, but you'll find it.
  • johnmccjohnmcc Member Posts: 5
    Hi I'm john from Va.Here's what I,ve done and still have the problem back.Replace head gasket ,water pump,.rear end seal,serpentine belt,timing belt,thermostat,.Now 10 days later after all this replaced have a temp hike going up again.I had only 64,000 miles on it.Sent a leter to head quarters no response.Expect this below plus more of what I had done.Now I had repairs done at an ACE certified shop using all Subaru parts from the dealer to do the repairs with from a shop does a lot of these exact repairs for the head gasket problems.All I had to do was mention the 2.5L engine and he knew the problem.After was a part showed me the blown head gasket and you could see the problem.I will be seeing him tomorrow since i have 12 months on the repairs.The point is without my car I can't work.Subaru should fixed this problem but uses a stop gap with their condtioner added to the radiator fluid.It's a cheap fix know as leak seal which all the mechanics I talked including ex-subaru mechanics who confirm my guest as to what is was.

    Dear John:
    Thank you for contacting Subaru of America, Inc. I am sorry to hear of your concerns with your 2004 Subaru Impreza Wagon. According to our records, your concern is being handled by our representative Marisol Crespo under Case # . She would like to have some documentation from you of the vehicle service history. You may fax this information to her at F: 856-488-3016. I will let Marisol know that you have emailed us, and your emails will be attached to the case. Best Wishes.
    Grant Noble
    Subaru of America, Inc.
    Customer/Dealer Services Department
    -----------------------------------------------------------
    YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:

    I truly hope when I go to the Subaru dealership in my area that I get it resolved but from all I've and tried to fix it so far sound like the head gasket will be what is the problem.No Subaru should ever have these kind of problems before 100,000 miles.Bubbling water in reserve tank,smell of anti-freeze,sudden up downs of temperature gauge since yesterday.The real problem even if you get the car fixed at your cost will be me getting to work.I work for myself and only get paid when I work and without a car to drive well and won't make any money to pay bills.I know that head gasket repairs take a long time to do but also know that the repairs don't seem to last long from what the websites I've read since Subaru doesn't generally remove engine to get a good seal on new head gasket.I love the style and handling of Subaru's but I hope to have you resolve this by letting me use the
    WWP-99 repair notice.I have saved and printed many many stories of the 2.5I HG failures.My biggest concern is even if it's repaired how long will it last before goes again.There have to be a better way to fix this problem.I just can't see after 100 years of building cars how this stuff still happening.If I had the money I would buy your knew electric car you sell in Japan in a heartbeat since that HG would never be a thing to worry about.I saved for years to get a Subaru since I know they had the best AWD in the world and had a great car.Sorry had to sent three e-mails but couldn't fit it all in.

    First name:
    Last name:
    I have found site after site all dealing with the Subaru engine problem with Head Gasket failure on the 2.5 engine.Do you really think any reasonable person won't see the pattern of this problem.That so called conditioner is nothing more then leak seal.Why would a Subaru need to have the so called conditioner add again and again unless they knew that had problems with their engine design on the 2.5.The right thing to do is simple replace the engine with a 2.2 that doesn't have this problem instead of making the same 2.5 over again with the same problems.I have read so many reports of HG failures even after the repair was done a short time later.I know for a fact the engine doesn't cost you more then $500 to produce.I cannot believe that it makes sense to you to lose multiple costumers that will never buy a Subaru again considering the low cost to you to fix the problem.The simple thing would be send me a letter with notice of intend as to replacing my engine at no cost to me with an engine without this flaw.The 2.0L and the 2.2L all seem to have a good track record but the 2.5L has a horrible design flaw to have this happen over and over again since the start of 99 on.Yes I've heard you say oh we fixed that problem and it doesn't exist in the 2004 model.well guess what it does exist.The 99-2004 model use the same engine and the same exact part number for a Head Gasket kit.If all the parts for a head gasket repair are the same then the engine on a 1999-2004 are going to have the same problems.I have never in all the years of driving cars seen a more obvious factory defect but you decide that the WWP-99 doesn't apply to the 2004.I have talked to more then a few mechanics from different shops and a few ex-subaru mechanics and they all say same thing.The failure rate is too high to be just something by accident.However does the math at Subaru doesn't know how to add.The Subaru cost on average between 17,000-up and you feel that you would rather lose a few hundred dollars on a new engine replacement which is all it really cost you for it.Aluminum engines weren't really a good idea to begin with.Yes much lighter but with a higher failure rate due to the temperature problems.Just so you know not all people out here in the real world can't see the real problem you refuse to fix properly.Here's a free bit of advise.First do what's right not what's cheaper for you to do.Customer loyalty is worth it's weight in Gold.If you keep hiding behind your words of "oh sorry that model doesn't have that problem".I can guarantee the problem will just keep losing clients in a time that your product has not keep up with the times.
  • pauladpaulad Member Posts: 14
    well, after much ado and 7 weeks later--I got the car back--first they changed the EGR valve--then the turbo--then the head gasket--then finally the engine---it seems a piston broke and the gaskets MELTED--the turbocharger and other parts were actually SO discolored and melted--they were unrecognizeable---parts of the exhaust system also MELTED--UNBELIEVABLE! Among numerous other things--originally they checked the pistons--they were fine--but when they finally took the engine apart--the found broken rings--I hope that was really causing the problem--just not a casualty of the real problem--- the temp light NEVER came on--and as soon as the check engine light came on --2 days later the car was there---this had to happen over time...somehwere it shoud've gave warning--good thing the car was under warranty--but I am not happy--it should never have happened THE CAR WAS LESS THAN 2 YEARS OLD---and it should've been indicated earlier on the car on the panel that there was a problem--I am afraid of what is going to happen to it when the warranty is over---and they never even kept me informed--I plan on making a serious complaint about this and follow through---we've owned subarus in th past and I was thinking about buying the outback--but now, I am afraid to do so....
  • pauladpaulad Member Posts: 14
    same problem--see post--cracked piston ring
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    A ring or piston failure is usually catastrophic and happens quickly.

    These are physically manufactured products and as such there is always a chance there is a failure.

    I'm still not sure what kind of "warning" you wanted that your engine blew up! :)

    -mike
  • vtxcvtxc Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I need suggestions. My 02 Outback wagon's engine is shot.I will get info./quote from repair shop about replacing it.About 114,000 miles. There's a hole in the block I guess. I know it will be expensive, even with used engine, and I am torn between doing repair and keeping it for my teen, or trying to get rid of it without the repair. Am inclined to lease or buy new Subaru--should I attempt to get a dealer to take it, or would I lose too much on the trade (probably). If I repair it, it doesn't make sense to trade it in. any suggestions? I am new here, and I don't know cars very well. Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, can't hurt to ask. Dealers lowball trades that are in good condition, though, I can't imagine they'll give you much for yours.
  • johnmccjohnmcc Member Posts: 5
    well I found a whole 1994 Subaru Impreza on criagslist.com for $2300.I would check craigslist and just buy the whole car for less then the engine will be unless you can find a junkyard engine.Also look into other engine sizes.Many other Subaru engines are able to switch them out.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Any folks here have experience with using Synthetic oil in their Subaru?
    Good? Bad?

    FYI I asked Subaru directly if Synthetics could be used. This is their response - all the caps are theirs :surprise: :

    "As for the use of synthetic oil, this is your decision. Our Technical Services
    Department advised that if you do decide to use synthetic oil, that you always use
    it because your engine will become accustomed to it. The same goes if you decide
    to use 'regular' oil.

    We recommend that you first change the oil in your vehicle at 3,750 miles or 4 months,
    whichever comes first. We STRONGLY recommend that you at least wait until the break-in
    period of 1,000 miles is surpassed, which I see you have done!

    The break-in period of the engine requires that a given amount of friction exists
    between components. The piston rings need to rub against the cylinder wall to break-in
    or finely tune the machine mating between the two metal parts. To properly seat
    all mechanical components, a certain amount of friction is required between the
    metal parts. Since synthetic oil has a lower friction rating than regular oil, we
    recommend that Subaru owners wait until after the 1,000 mile break-in period to
    switch to synthetic engine oil.

    Synthetic engine oils can be used in our engines if the user follows the engine
    oil recommendations prescribed in the Owner's Manual. Subaru has not tested
    the compatibility of all synthetic oils with engine seals, but the petroleum industry
    does adhere to standards for the refining process which meet Subaru requirements.
    Subaru does not guarantee the performance of any brand of any engine oil.

    Engine Oil Guidelines: - only use engine oil that meets or exceeds the API classification
    designated in the Owner's Manual for the vehicle - only use engine oil that
    meets the VISCOSITY requirements for the ambient temperatures under which the vehicle
    will be operated as outlined in the Owner's Manual - THE ENGINE OIL MUST BE
    CHANGED AT THE INTERVALS SPECIFIED IN THE WARRANTY AND MAINTENANCE BOOKLET FOR THE
    VEHICLE. SOME SYNTHETIC OIL REFINERS RECOMMEND EXTENDED OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. SUBARU
    DOES NOT RECOMMEND ANY DEVIATION FROM THE SPECIFIED INTERVALS IN THE OWNER'S
    MANUAL.

    So it looks like Synthetic is OK provided they "follow the rules" above.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Also look into other engine sizes.Many other Subaru engines are able to switch them out.

    Actually it gets VERY expensive to swap engine sizes. If you are going to swap you'd do a WRX motor swap into an NA car, but that runs in the $10,000 price range to do it correctly.

    I'd look for a junk yard motor of the same year to swap in, would cost about $1000 in labor to do that. (maybe less)

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    So it looks like Synthetic is OK provided they "follow the rules" above.

    I run Amsoil full Syntetic (25k change interval oil) in my Legacy GT. I usually do my changes every 7k miles give or take 2 or 3k. The reason you can't do synthetic later on in engine life is that the build up from non synthetic will get washed away when you change to synthetic, this then puts the engine oil in contact with a portion of the gaskets that are now dried out (from lack of oil seeping to it) and they leak. As for going back to non-synthetic, that's not usually a problem, the "getting used to it" is a line of BS IMO.

    -mike
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Out of curiosity are there any known issues of Subarus being especially sensitive to wheel nut over-torquing?
    This was an issue with the Chevy Malibu, where impact wrench tightening routinely caused rotor warpage and was a real pain to deal with.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, Subaru rotors warp easily - make sure they are not over-torqued.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    The 99 LGT sunroof will open, but the starboard side seems to bind when I try to close it. I have to help it along manually. I'm guessing there's a motor for each side, and that one is now DOA. Confirmation thoughts, anyone?

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I believe 1 motor, but 2 cables, I bet the cable broke.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yes, Subaru rotors warp easily - make sure they are not over-torqued.

    If over torqued, yeah they'll warp, however I put mine on with 100 ft. lbs and routinely drive on-track with my LGT and haven't warped the stock rotors in 57k miles so far.

    With that said, this past weekend I was up at Pocono Raceway running the North Course and did 2 35 min sessions back to back with the LGT Wagon, held my own in the Instructor/Advanced/Race group. This is a bone stock 05 LGT Wagon 5MT w/SPT Exhaust, Hawk HPs Pads (not even HP+), ATE Superblue Fluid, and Take-off tires from a Stock Evo (245-45-17 Yoko A046 Tires).

    -mike
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    If over torqued, yeah they'll warp, however I put mine on with 100 ft. lbs and routinely drive on-track with my LGT and haven't warped the stock rotors in 57k miles so far.

    100 ft-lbs is not too bad. I'm talking about the impact-wrench happy mechanics who torque lug nuts sometimes to 120-130. I guess I've become very weary of these situations, and whenever someone removes and then reinstalls the wheels on any of my cars, I retorque them manually as soon as I get home. Just like the specs say - 76 ft. lbs, and I do it in three passes 56-66-76.

    Since I started doing that about four years ago, all front end vibration and rotor problems went away.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nice, I'm horrible, I just use my breaker bar and socket to tighten mine! I estimate it at about 100ft-lbs though. :)

    I agree most shops impacts will cause issues cause they not only over-tighten they don't hand thread them on.

    -mike
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... The reason you can't do synthetic later on in engine life is that the build up from non synthetic will get washed away when you change to synthetic, this then puts the engine oil in contact with a portion of the gaskets that are now dried out (from lack of oil seeping to it) and they leak."

    I doubt that. I was an Amsoil dealer for 5 years, and have changed back and forth on high-mileage cars (albeit well-maintained). Never heard that warning or experienced any problems. Also have mixed regular and synth oils by topping up one with the other. Amsoil's website has a "myth" page that ought to be read.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm also an amsoil dealer and that explaination above, is correct. It makes sense too. I'm not talking about switching back and forth or topping off, I'm talking switching a car that has 75k+ miles of non synthetic over to synthetic. The gaskets will leak, I can assure you.

    -mike
  • dryflydryfly Member Posts: 8
    This is for 2001 Forester, 94,000 miles, Manual
    2 electrical questions: Recently left turn signal flashed extremely quickly. Continued to do so after I pushed turn indicator to right then left. This 'effect' went away after a couple of days. What gives? Next, my cell phone charger for car won't charge anymore. Same charger works in other cars. (this one plugs into lighter receptacle). Fuses or the receptacle?
    Off and on for past 2 months, my check engine light goes on then off. Sometimes if
    I vent the gas door it goes away after a couple of days. Many times, if it is hot (anything over 65 F in Oregon), it will go on. Sensor bad? And how to check? Could it be related to E10 requirement in Oregon?
    Service people want to do 90,000 mile maintenance. Because I had new clutch plate done, all belts are replaced. Now want to do rest. But $150 for replacing
    spark plugs? And over $600 for the rest?
    Had oil change done today. Forgot to ask about checking the warning light. Now service guy says it will cost $68 just to check the output. Am I getting screwed?
    Finally, he says that my CV seals are cracked and need to be replaced right away. For $400?
  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    Greetings,

    Forester #1: 2004 X 5-speed ~80,000 miles
    The car lurches or bucks at almost any speed. Sometimes it’s minor and just feels like I abruptly took my foot off the gas pedal for a second. Other times, it feels like it’s going to stall, but it never does. It used to do this right after I filled the tank with gas. If I stopped the car and restarted it, the problem went away. Then it stopped doing it altogether for a while. Now it does it all the time. The CEL is not on. I will be taking it into the dealer later this week, but I was hoping to get some possible ideas first. Any thoughts?

    Forester #2 2005 X automatic ~57,000 miles
    Dealer #1 says struts are leaking and the car needs new struts all the way around to the tune of $1,100. Dealer #2 says they’re fine and the car would ride and handle badly if they were bad. It rides and handles fine. Shop #3 (Midas) says the struts are indeed leaking, but they can’t find replacement struts anywhere in the city (Tucson). They also say struts never go bad on Subarus. What gives? Any thoughts?

    For what it’s worth, the car pulled a 1,000 pound trailer on a 13,000 mile trip to Alaska and saw hundreds of miles or dirt road on the trip.

    By the way, I posted some time ago about a problem I was having with Forester #1. The temp gauge would drop all the way to cold while driving down steep mountain grades with the transmission in 3rd or 4th gears to take advantage of engine braking. As soon as I hit the bottom of the grade, the temp gauge would immediately return to normal. A couple of weeks later the CEL came on, and the dealer replaced the catalytic converter and the problem went away. I don’t see how the two are related, but the problem is gone.

    Thanks in advance for any and all ideas.
    Tim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Can't help with #1 but on #2

    Struts on subies usually last about 80-100k miles give or take so you aren't too far out of that range, especially given the rough roads and trailering. 1100 is a bit much for struts for it. I'd go with KYB GR2 Struts that should be found for around $100/each max and about $300 to have em installed is around $700.

    -mike
  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks Mike!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm surprised you don't also get a check-engine light. It sounds like it's misfiring.

    You may just want to reset the ECU if you haven't already.
  • tim3tim3 Member Posts: 28
    Thanks Juice. I've been surprised the CEL hasn't come on either. I've been hoping it would come on because I know without it, any diagnoses is mostly a shot in the dark. At any rate, the car stopped doing it all of a sudden yesterday???!!! I reset set the ECU anyway. We'll see what happens. Thanks again.
  • sg447sg447 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Legacy Wagon SE Automatic. Over the last few month or so, I have noticed that there is a rather loud growl from the engine while turning the steering at low speeds in a parking lot. Is that normal, and/ or has anyone else experienced it? The power steering pump was leaking, and was repaired recently.
    There is also a high pitch whine at speeds over 40 miles but I was told by the dealership that it is normal for boxer engines.
    Thanks in advance.
    Saran.
  • nova11nova11 Member Posts: 2
    Forester 98. Always cold starts well, but sometimes does not seem to get gas to start again after 4-5 consecutive shorts trips. Will start then only by hitting gas pedal, which causes the rpm level to surge (sometimes wildly) for 30 seconds to a couple of minutes. Noticed more pings than usual a couple of times lately, too. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I used to have one of those, did you buy my Acadia Green Metallic one? :D

    It's a decade old, so if you haven't already, look to change things like the spark plugs, plug wires, and ignition coil, in that order.

    The erratic behavior may be the ECU, though.
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