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Maybe the first owner abused the engine or was not so diligent about maintenance. I would not think Subaru can do much about a second hand car with 105K miles.
MNSteve
1) have my independent mechanic, who has taken great care of me in the past, put an '05 Forester engine in my car with 58K miles for $4600.
2) authorize Subaru to do a tear-down and inspection, which will cost $850. Only then can they determine if there is damage to the cylinder heads and cam shaft, and only then can Subaru headquarters provide an answer on what type of assistance, if any, they can give me. If no damage is found to the above-mentioned components, I'm looking at a remanufactured shortblock with new engine gaskets for $4150. This price includes the $850 for tear-down. If I had a crystal ball and knew there would be no further damage found, this would be the way to go because Subaru's warranty on a remanufactured engine is better than what my independent mechanic will get at a scrap-yard. BUT....if there is damage to the heads and shaft, the total estimate for repair is $8000.
Every day I am shocked by some new piece of news. If that's the case, I can't do it. I'll have to bring it back to my mechanic and cut my losses on the $850 for tear-down. This is getting ridiculous. I feel like every option I have is awful. I called Subaru headquarters again today (in tears) and someone is supposed to call me back later to further discuss my options. But I know they need that tear-down before they can guarantee me anything. At their request, I provided all of my records to my Subaru dealer so they can see that I have taken care of the car to an anal degree. Don't know if this will help.
Is there a third option? Does anyone have any idea what I can get, if anything, for a Forester that---with the exception of the ENGINE--is in really good shape, with new, high-quality tires, new timing belt and pulleys, and new brakes? Would anyone give me anything for this car? At this point I would feel lucky to be able to just pay off my loan and start from scratch. :sick:
Seem obvious that you are going to have to pay for that tear-down.. If everything else is as you describe, then I feel there is a good chance that Subaru will step up and help out with this. (At least, that is the healthful attitude to take). Try to stay positive with the Subaru reps, letting them know that you have no doubt that they will come through for you, even if you have major doubts..
Because, I sure wouldn't want to have to pay $4600 for a used engine.... :surprise:
Good luck.. and hang in there!
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My suggestion would be to give Subaru some time to respond, if possible.
If they don't come through, it sounds like your independent mechanic is the way to go. An engine swap's a major piece of work, unfortunately.
I'd go for the teardown and then if it needs more than the shortblock, go for the engine swap.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
Sorry to the forum folks for carrying on about this issue.
I am going to talk to Subaru headquarters again today, since they never called me back last week. If they can give me a glimmer of hope that they'll help, I'll probably go for the teardown.
$3100 for a complete engine seems on par.
What a crummy situation. I cannot help but think this is a manifestation of something the previous owner may have done to it. If it was a manufacturing issue, it would surprise me that 100,000 miles passed before it caused failure. Possible, but tough to fathom.
I know with these crazy numbers flying around, $850 seems like peanuts. But I will find it hard to stomach the $850 on top of the $4600, if it's all for naught.
Does anyone know if it's possible, or even worth it, to find out who the original owner of the car was? Then maybe I can contact them and find out if they were honest with the dealer about an engine issue, and then the dealer was dishonest. But if the original people abused the engine and didn't originally confess that to the dealer, then they're not going to admit it to me either.
Also, I had a CarFax report done, and it didn't show any accidents or rebuilt anything. Can things be hidden from CarFax?
:lemon: --This should be the symbol of my existence for now.
While they haven't denied the claim yet, they haven't said they'll pay for it either...
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
The only thing that carfax will show is something that hits its DMV or, I think, insurance records. So, yes, there are many things that can happen to a car that would not show up there.
Two months ago my local mechanic checked my brakes and said that the pads were ok.(worn about 40%) So if the rotors are resurfaced can I still use the old pads or should I replace with new pads? I do not want to spend unnecessary $$
Opinions?
I am about to embark on a 5,500 mile road trip in my 2001 Legacy GT wagon. Everything has been great with the car.
Should I go ahead and have the timing belt done now ahead of schedule?
Brakes are original but pads amazingly still look okay. I do occasionally notice a little pulsing that likely means a warped rotor. Should I do brakes and if so all new rotors?
Along with oil, filters, plugs, cooling flush is there any other maintenance I should do?
What is the current thinking on plug brand and type?
Thanks to all.
bit
I'd also get the timing belt done too, can't hurt to get it done ahead of schedule, and it would suck to have to get it done on the trip.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
My dealer is doing the timing belt and the mechanic says I should do water pump while I am at it. What's the life expectancy of the pump?
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
We have a 2009 Subaru Legacy Limited with just about 2500 miles on it. Recently, the TPMS light has been coming on. I figured that this is most likely due to the change in air temperature lately as the fall air turns from cool to cold, and we're starting to see frost.
I took the Legacy to the gas station about a tenth of a mile away and filled the wheels to the specifications outlined in the Owner's Manual (we have the Yokohamas) and the light remained on. I didn't put more air into it - yet - because I didn't want to exceed the PSI listed on the sidewall.
I called Subaru Service and they said that as you drive, the wheels will warm up, and the light should go out. They've mentioned if it does not go out after 3 days to schedule a service appointment.
Has anyone else heard of any issues with the TPMS? My aunt had an issue with the sensor on her Nissan and she has told our family countless horror stories of having to go back to the Nissan dealer dozens of times before they'd actually fixed it.
http://blogs.edmunds.com/roadtests/2008/10/2008-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti-really-co- ld-tire-pressure.html
On a recent road trip back east, the TPMS light would start flashing after about 300 miles of driving in a day. The tire pressure was good. Since the light flashed and was not steady, according to the manual, it was a system problem not a pressure problem. When I got back, I took it to the dealer who found no codes and therefore no problems. I'm sure once the warranty is expired it will be a lot easier for the dealer to find and correct the problem.
I feel the TPMS is a nice idea that doesn't work and is definitely more trouble than it's worth. Subaru knows about this problem and could care less.
But it makes me wonder...WHAT made the light come on? I guess I could have a slow leak, but I doubt it. It did not appear the pressure was low in any of the tires...and I completely agree with a previous poster that it would be nice to know WHICH tire was the culprit. It was cold the past few mornings (mid 20s) and I HOPE that it's not going to be a wintertime issue because of the frigid temperatures we experience. I'm not crazy about having this system on the car (I remember having it on a rental car years ago and I hated it then) and I am hoping that it won't prove to be an annoyance.
I do have a question though, does the TPMS also sense the pressure in the spare tire in the trunk? I couldn't find anything in the owner's manual about that. My hunch is NO, since the manual talked about the TPMS not being able to monitor the pressure if one of the tires was removed and replaced, but I just wondered.
It has about 180k. Everything works well. Is it worth it?
With the colder temperatures, the PSI COLD goes down. This will trigger the TPMS light to come on. You should inflate your tires to the proper tire pressure when COLD (in other words if you drive to the gas station and put air in, bump it up about 5psi or so because now the tires are "warm").
Once you fill them you need to drive a few miles in order for the TPMS computer to register the new PSI.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
A vehicle that old could be difficult to get spare parts for, though. Usually manufacturers keep parts for 7 - 8 years from a vehicles' introduction. For one that old, I don't know.
The thing I notice most about old Subaru vehicles is lifter noise. If it does not have said noise, then you are probably ahead of the game.
They just called and said it was probably the synchronizer and that to fix it the labor would be $1017.00. They couldn't say what the parts cost would be until they opened it up. We just had a new clutch installed last month--at a different shop. AAMCO told us that the flywheel should have been retooled when the clutch was done, but wasn't. AAMCO said they could do it for us while they had the car.
Does their diagnosis of the grinding sound reasonable, and is the $1017 for labor sound reasonable. Could it be something else? We just had a new baby last week and this expense is the last thing we needed! We're going to have to borrow the money from my parents.
Thank you--Lori
Grinding when shifting is often a Synchronizer issue (synchronizers match gear speeds to avoid grinding). Synchros do wear out over time.
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At 150k miles, it sure could be synchros but the fact that it follows on clutch work may or may not be related to that work and I agree that the 1st thing I'd do is go back to the shop that did the clutch work. Good luck
I'd also be very suprised if the shop that put in the clutch messed up the synchros, if anything you may have damaged them when the clutch was worn down, but even that isn't likely.
I had a very bad experience with AAMCO, they had to buy back my 1991 Escort because they damaged it so badly.
-mike
Motorsports and Modifications Host
As far as AAMCO goes, in my opinion based on my experience with a different car and problem, I would immediately remove my car from their shop and never set foot in an AAMCO store again. I wound up suing, winning and collecting but it wasn't easy.
Pop in and say hi to the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members II thread.
I have seen it work in 2009 Legacy (same HK system), but does not work in an outback although the subaru brochure and site says it should (http://www.subaru.com/sub/misc/harmankardon/index.html)
If you have a 2009 outback limited+ can you check and let me know.
I don't have the Outback, but as you mentioned, it's working on my Legacy.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
-mike
was power loss sudden or gradual?
manual or auto trans?
Air filter cleaned?
Idle smooth or rough?
Smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating or de-accelerating?
See below in response to your questions.
I appreciate your help.
Steve
was power loss sudden or gradual?
Sudden - just happened 2 weeks ago.
manual or auto trans?
auto trans
Air filter cleaned?
air filter clean
Idle smooth or rough?
idle is smooth
Smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating or de-accelerating?
I have noticed some darker smoke coming from exhaust when accelerating.