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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Sorry for the gut shot. Those hurt, but the worst part is just trying to catch your breath afterward....

    Wait a minute.... antifreeze... from your head gasket issue? Ugh... that stuff will foul an oxygen sensor in no time at all. I think replacement of the upstream sensor, and perhaps both, will be very helpful if they were exposed to antifreeze. How is your fuel economy right now? If the oxygen sensors are not providing good feedback, your economy is likely depressed somewhat compared to "the old days."
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I have been averaging 23+ miles per gallon. And that was before I changed the plugs and corrected the timing. I am only at half a tank since the repair. I usually like to go through a couple of fillups to get a mileage reading (for a good statistical sample).
  • hrrsvctnhrrsvctn Member Posts: 1
    I got a 1996 subaru legacy and its been having trouble starting. Sometimes it wont start on the first try. Now it turns over it just wont start. And when it does start up sometimes the RPMs will drop and it will stall out. We replaced the spark plugs but still have the problem. Also I have drove it for a short distance shut it off and then come back to it 5 minutes later and it wont start. I would wait 5 minutes and then it finally will. Any idea??
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Try replacing your knock, camshaft, and crankshaft sensors. If you do not want to replace all at once, start with the knock sensor. All are relatively easy to locate, access, and replace. I suspect you will resolve both problems simultaneously.

    I lived with that no-start problem for a few years before it finally disappeared after replacing those sensors due to the rough start & idle problem you described. I think they were somehow related, though I do not fully know. I was, however, thrilled to know I could rely on my car when running errands!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tsxowwnertsxowwner Member Posts: 38
    My wife and I bought a new 2009 forester and 2009 outback.

    My wife connected her Ipod classic to the Aux and soon thereafter it died. The ipod was pretty old so figured it was time.

    We each bought Ipod shuffles and have used them in each of our subarus on and off for a few months. Both died.

    Has anyone else had an issue with their Ipods?
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    I do know that Ipods usually last about one week past warranty period so it may not be anything to do with the Subaru

    Cheers

    Graham
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Except mine... I have had it four years with no problems so far. I doubt it has anything to do with the cars, though. I used my iPod in an '07 and an '08 outback, and had no problems with it as a result.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I got a new O2 sensor. The old one was hard to take out. But when I did get it out, I saw why. The threads were bad, hence, I got not get the new sensor in. I do not know what to do. I am thinking of driving to the auto parts store (minus the sensor) get a tap/thread chaser, cleaning the threads and put the new one in. I just do not know if I can drive with out the sensor and having the upstream hole open. I might connect the old sensor so the computer gets some kind of reading while the car is in operation.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Ouch. Yeah, I don't know either what will work. I agree that re-threading the hole is the best option, but you might just have to experiment with the transportation to and from. Maybe lube the threads on the old one, wedge it in as well as possible, reconnect and go....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Well I drove to the auto parts store with the sensor connected and hanging in the engine compartment. Picked up the thread chaser and after some elbow grease got it in. Check the codes (P0301, 0031, & 0420). Cleared the codes and now we will see where we stand.

    While I was underneath the car, I realized I need some boots for the tie rods and the curbside half shaft. There was a lot of oil on the bottom of the car. I see a drop or two when I leave for work in the morning. Can I steam clean the engine and look for the sepage?

    Also, do I need that cover on the bottom of the car? During an oil change years ago someone cut a hole in it. Over time it started breaking apart.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    While my '09 Forester XT was on road trip to Washington state, I noted a small vibration in the steering wheel at normal cruising speeds of 70 - 75 mph. Washington roads are better paved than Oregons, and made it easier to sense the vibration.

    My friendly service manager (one of two I know at Hillsboro Subaru, who have been straightforward and honest) discovered all 4 wheels were out of balance, ranging from 1/2 ounce to 1 ounce. The worst tires were on the front.
    He also mentioned other customers from Les Schwab and elsewhere had come in to have tires balanced, and had gone away happy.

    Ironically, I've rarely found a tire shop that can properly balance tires: balancing goes to their lowest paid people who, from personal observations, have their minds on something else. :sick:
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I buy ($100 for a set of four) my tires from a recycling center (junk yard). I have been fortunate in getting tires that are 1-3 years old (DOT date) with excellent tread.

    There is a vibration at highway speeds. I probably need a rotation and balance. This will be done when I get the boots on the tie rod done (this repair is beyond my ability to repair). Got to know you limits.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Well, after 63 miles the CEL came on. It came up with P0301 and 0420. The all famous cylinder 1 misfire and Catalytic efficiency below threshold -bank 1. This time I got Auto Zone to print out the code. I am going to work on the misfire first.

    Probable Causes: Leaking or Blocked Injector, Ignition system malfunction affecting one cylinder, Engine mechanical condition, and Valve adjustment needed.

    I will start by replacing the wires. The wires were replaced at 148,000 miles by a Subaru dealer five (5) years ago. Do wires have a life expectancy? I want to take care of the misfire because it may a contributor to the P0420 code.

    Over the last 2 fill ups, I have been averaging 24.3 miles per gallon.

    Any suggestions or comments anyone?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    As they say, spark or fuel.

    In the order of cheapest fix first:

    For Fuel: Fuel filter, fuel pump.

    For Spark: plugs (done), plug wires, ignition coil.

    That's my experience.
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    You could do worse than putting some "Top Engine Cleaner" in the fuel tank. Subaru in Australia do this as part of service at 20,000km intervals and it seemed to make a big difference to injectors without expensive strip down and clean. They would also leave a second bottle in car with instructions to add it at next fuel fill-up.

    Not sure what the US equivalent would be but suspect it is a detergent type additive as it also seemed to decoke and carbon build up. Plugs would be very clean after the two bottles. Incidentally, it's worth using premium unleaded with detergent additive according to Subaru.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Dealers use a similar product here, is it B&G? I forget.

    You can buy that from a dealership, though. Quality Subaru sent me some in a tune-up kit.

    Or your average parts store will have Techron.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Advanced Auto recommended this one product that I would put in the oil pan, gas tank, and suck some up in the vaccum system. But I would have to change the oil within a couple of hundred miles.

    I opted for their second choice (Lucas). I am making a trip over the weekend and did not want to try something while I was on the road.

    Also, I eliminated the spark wires. I swapped the wires with cylinder 3 (both ends) and still got a misfire on cylinder 1. At idle it feels like it is missing. I am getting close to taking it to the dealer. Maybe their computer can give me more details than the Actron scanner (which I am thinking about buying).

    Keep those suggestions coming.
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Some auto people around here seem to like a product that I think is called "Sea Foam". Not sure but I think it is added to the crankcase. There is one old product, I think from the mid thirties, called Marvel Mystery Oil. It's in a red container. Wal mart and many chain stores have it. When the Pipeliners went through here building pipelines they used it by the case and added it to anything with a piston. I mean they used lot's of it. A friend of mine was a mechanical engineer and kept a can handy in his truck.. A fellow used to keep an old clunker near the airport and when he came up to ski he would fire it up to get to the ski hill. After one unusually severe cold spell he got it started but shut it off cause it vibrated and sounded like the rods were going to go through the sides. My friend added a container of the "Mystery oil" and it settled right down. It can be added to the gas to clear injectors too I think. I use it a couple of times a year when the seasons change. We only have winter and less winter here almost.
    Jim
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Marvel Mystery Oil was analyzed by one of Exxon's chemists. Description follows:

    "MMO contains mineral spirits, 30 wt baseoil, red dye and wintergreen fragrance."

    you can read more about other kinds of oils, additives, and Ed Kollin, the chemist, here:

    http://www.avweb.com/news/savvyaviator/savvy_aviator_52_thinking_about_oil_chang- es_196730-1.html

    ( this was also discussed in the oil additive topic forum at Edmunds )
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Good article. At least he felt Marvel may do some good for lifters. Didn't seem he had anything positive about the other two. I liked what he said about synthetic oil.

    Thanks....
    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    wintergreen fragrance

    :D
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    How do I remove the glovebox so that I can replace the cabin filter on my 2006
    Forester. The manual says to remove 9 screws. I removed 7 (3 on top, 2 middle,
    and 2 bottom (not the two holding the 2 sections of the glove box together which did not make any difference.)

    However, while the left side of the glove box is free, the right side is not free.
    What step am I missing and where are the 2 other screws that the manual says must be removed?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You may want to search for "Scoobymods Forester air filter" or something like that. I bet they have instructions.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    I did the same thing you described to my wife's 07 Forester. When I reached the point at which I didn't want to break her car, I told her about it and she provided more muscle and off it came.

    This is the first time I'm admitting this - please keep it to yourself. Thanks.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    I originally had a Subaru I loved when I bought it last June. However, I have been trying to deal with Subaru of America for over 2 months now to try to get my serious lemon 09 Forester swapped out for a new car. (The lawyers said it might be easier to do this amicably, ha Subaru of America does not know that term!!)

    This car has made me sick for months due to chemicals that have come into the cabin. Chemicals are related to the heater box running. The chemicals that I have been breathing are in part (as I don't have enough information to determine ALL of the chemicals) coolant, refrigerant, and some lanolin blend oil, none of which should be breathed in per the MSDS sheets. My Dr. even wrote a letter to them. They obviously DON'T CARE that their customers are getting sick in their cars.

    This car is a major defect that they are willing to take back only as a "trade assist", which means I would still have to pay thousands and thousands for another new like car. I could not see out of the windshield to drive with this car and they do not consider that a "substantial defect".

    SUBARU is not customer conscious.

    I have been dealing with this guy Rick at Subaru of America. Obviously he is a lawyer, and my lawyer said it would be fine to deal with him. WRONG. This guy was just trolling me out without offering anything.

    Originally, in our first conversation, he LIED to me. Now 2 months later, I still have my lemon and nothing is happening. I talked to a friend who happen to have 2 Avalanches go bad on him. It was not problem to get the vehicle swapped out. It is sickening that, despite STILL being sick from the chemicals in the FORESTER, I have to FIGHT TOOTH AND NAIL with Subaru when the avalanche people made things easy. On to my next step...gotta get rid of this death trap.

    Ie If you get a lemon, you will be screwed with this company!!!! They do not care about their customers.

    Has anyone had to deal with Subaru on a lemon before?

    Time to start a media blitz. The internet listens. Then on to the next action step...
  • logtraillogtrail Member Posts: 74
    Morin2,

    Do you mean that after the screws (7 or 9) are out you just pry/manage the right side of the glove box and plastic that wraps around the bottom right?

    Went to my Subaru dealer today and after noticing the sign "$99 for a cabin filter change" asked the service mgr about my problem. He came out to the car and said that he didn't really know but thought that maybe there were clips holding the plastic part and it could be forced out.
    I'm unwilling to do this since my wife, who dearly loves this car, would never let me forget it if I bent or broke some of the interior!!

    And re: scooby... there are no instructions for a 2006 forester.
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Member Posts: 11
    My heart goes out to you. You must have one of the multiple allergy conditions. I have a friend who is basically allergic to everything. She will never be able to get into a new car, (or new house, or place of work), due to allergies to outgassing products, perfumes, etc.

    I've got a 2009 Forester and have been subject to the same chemicals. Fortunately to me, they are just the "new car" smell.
  • morin2morin2 Member Posts: 399
    logtrail,

    I wish I'd paid more attention to exactly what she did. I was not expecting her to remove the glove box after I took out the 7 screws. I couldn't get the darn thing off and assumed that she wouldn't either. So I wasn't watching as closely as I should have. The whole glove box came off. I asked her about it just now and she said she just pulled it straight back "firmly but gently". I suspect next time I'll remove the screws and ask her to show me her technique. Maybe this needs a woman's touch. Once off, the filter is easy and the glove box is easy to put back - but taking it off is not intuitive. That filter gets filthy quickly too.

    The toughest part is asking your wife to help with a car repair - its like admitting defeat.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    Smudejet,

    I'm sorry for your friend, however, I have NO allergies. I am, or was, a healthy person. I have never had a problem with any new car I have ridden in. In fact, I had this car from the end of June through October with no issues. So, this problem, has nothing to do with me and everything to do with the design of the car, or failure thereof.

    Running the heater was the start of all the problems. And as people on here did not post back that they were having the same window film problems, I still believe it is something that is fairly singular to my car. Or, those cars which may have the ehater box manufactured at the same place/time. Or, those with what SOA originally called, the "Impreza 08 heater boxes".

    Why Subaru is dragging their heals with this Sick Forester is beyond me. I have been very patient as this problem started way back at the beginning of November.
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    PS SOA if you are out there listening, why don't you just be a decent company do the right thing.

    Think "Customer Service"!
  • smudgejetsmudgejet Member Posts: 11
    Hi,

    What are your symptoms? Do you have hives, chronic cough, or some other symptom? I have not heard of others in such dire straights as you.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    For those having fogging or odor issues with the Subaru heating system, try this after the vehicle is thoroughly warmed up:

    1. Open all your windows (or the moonroof, if you have one)
    2. Make sure A/C is off
    3. Put heater system on the highest temperature
    4. Let run at full or nearly full fan for 15 minutes.

    The idea is to heat the gaskets and other components to assist their outgassing.

    Subaru has reported that the outgassing diminishes over time - this process will greatly speed it up.

    If you get deposits on the windshield, either Stoners or Megriuers window cleaners will remove them.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Unit is a 97 Subaru Legacy Brighton, 2.2 Liter. Base model AWD. Service point, 235K-240K. Service performed. Clutch replacement, rear main seal replaced, rear "O" ring oil galley and Oil gallery cover and gasket replaced. Major sources of oil leaks in higher mileage units.

    On reassembly of unit, boots to steering rack replaced, half shafts replaced with reman units. All wheel bearings replaced with full synthetic grease.

    After a 1000 miles, a springing noise developed which was traced to passenger side half shaft unit being excessive sloppy on the half shaft output shaft from differential section of transaxle. Also noted more play on drivers side.

    Any one else out there run into this problem and if so, what did you find to rectify the problem? We have replaced these shafts with A1 cardone Select new units. 66-7055. Time will tell if that resolves it. New units are larger in size and much heavier than OEM units. I suspect OEM units may be too small for service.

    Older service units had developed similar problems over past time. This one being the 4th one required further inspection after seeing a common case come up.
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    I want to find out if other 2008 Impreza owners (normally aspirated powertrain) with auto trans are experiencing engine ping in a variety of acceleration situations? High octane gas has made no difference. This is the rattling sound that sounds like dice in a cup. Engine pings when car shifts into 3rd and 4th gear, pings when I'm accelerating up a hill or freeway ramp, even pings when I pull away from a stopsign on level ground. More pronounced in warm weather. Disappears pretty quickly but reappears when accelerating. Dealer has been no help so far in diagnosing - say they "can't replicate the problem." Pinging started when car only had 1000 mi. on it - it has 12k now. Does this have anything to do with the drive by wire system, or ecu or what? Any help appreciated - I will be making my 3rd trip to the dealer on Monday. Thanks.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Well folks,

    I drove to New York and back with the Lucas stuff in the tank. With the Lucas, I went 459.9 miles on 18.45 gallons. That yielded a 24.92 mpg rating. Prior to that I went 531.5 miles on 22.18 gallons. That yield was 23.96 mpg.

    The engine runs a little smoother. Though there is a slight miss from time to time. Also, for the last few months, I have notice what I think is piston slap or some knocking at idle. It disappears above 2400 rpms. After the engine is running for more than 20 minutes, I do not hear it at idle anymore. It does not come back unless the engine has been off for 8+ hours. Today when I started the car up from being off all night, I expected to hear it as usual, but for the first time it was not there. It was the first time after sitting overnight I did not hear it first thing in the morning.

    Tomorrow I will have Advance Auto reset the CEL(code P0301) and see what Lucas did for me. The next step will be to swap injectors or pump air into cylinder 1 and see if it leaks out. Maybe the valves get bent when the timing was off a tooth.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Could the noise be coming from the exhaust system? Loose heat shields on several model years made such a rattle.
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    Umm, I don't think so, although I am not a mechanic. This noise is really tied to acceleration, esp. up any kind of hill, and when it shifts into 3rd and 4th gears. It is not a steady rattle, it disappears after car reaches desired speed or the engine isn't being asked to do something. I had a 96 Legacy wagon (2.2 L engine) that would ping a bit on hills - but nothing near like what this car is doing.

    I have seen some complaining on the drive by wire systems; wonder if this has anything to do with the engine performing this way? High octane gas makes no difference, so it's not the fuel.
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    This noise is really tied to acceleration

    Acceleration produces a small shift in engine and trans position in relation to the exhaust system. Don't rule out that source yet.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    Doesn't sound related to the drive-by-wire problem (though, I have that in my manual-shift Impreza)..

    Don't know if it's the heat shield, but it definitely sounds like something loose and rattling..

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  • rondo320rondo320 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 2007 OBW with the same problem. It has a 2.5 manual transmission and at high loads in 4th and 5th it sounds like the engine has something loose internally. I also own a 2004 2.5 impreza outback sport with a loose manifold and that sound is completely different. When I took it to the dealer, since its still under warranty, they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is something wrong with it and I will keep taking it back to develop a paper trail of Subaru ignoring a problem. I've owned a lot of Subarus but this is the last one unless the dealer suddenly becomes helpful and fixes the problem.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I very much doubt the problem is a bent valve due to the belt having been off by a tooth.... was it the crank or camshaft that was off? I had a camshaft off by a tooth for 60,000 miles and there was no problem with the valves afterward. I did notice the car ran slightly smoother once I corrected the timing during the next belt replacement, but fuel economy, etc., was not noticeably different.

    However, if it was the crankshaft off, it may be more significant because the sprocket is much smaller (and therefore each tooth represents more degrees off on the timing). Just guessing here though.... :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    I understand that multiple chemical sensitivity problem. I live with it. We have an 89 Mazda 323 that had a windshield changed out a few years back which the glass company did not fix the leak when asked to. That leak drips right into the fan system which blows the moisture right into the a/c heat duct system causing a lot of fog in rainy weather. Needless to say, that glass company no longer has business from us.

    I am wondering if you might be slowly losing coolant from the heater core or refrigerant from the a/c system. Losses in either of those systems no matter how slow they might be would have me looking right at the evap core or the heater core. The antifreeze and 134a refrigerant will do a number on us if in a breathable vapor form. The real fun part is getting right down to exactly what and where the leak is. This is not a problem that is slowly resolved and will take a good bit of time, patience and experience from the repair tech to correct. He/she will have to be able to carefully think out everything you explain to him and be a good detective. Something few mechanics know how to do.

    I suggest you consult with a good a/c tech for the sniffer test for refrigerant. He will need a very sensitive trade tool for this job. One who specializes in rebuilding a/c systems may be best. Good luck on this, since very few people want to pay the real good techs anything. Most techs would rather spend time on easier problems. Here, I have the power to ground and take my time to correct such hard line problems.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    That is correct. One tooth off usually does not bend a valve.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    the dreaded misfire code......could be anything simple from Penzoil Quaker State oil being ran in the engine. Dump it, it causes too much sludge, to spark plug wires on to a valve hanging up at times. Lucas oil made it run better? That sticking valve could be it. Do a leak down compression test. If it fails, change your oil to something like a Wal-Mart brand that does not sludge up. Valvoline is also good for little sludge buildup. make sure the filter you use has a good quality back flow valve in it. A WIX is good for that as well.

    If it still fails to correct after a few miles.....100-1000, get ready to do a valve job!
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Interesting.....what do you mean normally aspirated. I thought carburaters were history. Everything I see now a days is fuel injected. If so, the knock sensor is what changes the timing to prevent that problem. Usually if it fails, it throws a code. Then again that is assuming that system works correctly!
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    I picked up the term "normally aspirated" from the NASIOC board, because that's what the non-turbo Imprezas are labeled - just to distinguish it from the turbos. Had the car to the dealer today for the third time. They continue to assert they can find nothing wrong and they cannot replicate the pinging sound when driving it; however, they did decide to "relearn the transmission." Not sure if that's just a "bandaid" approach. I drove it away this evening; there's still some pinging, not quite as bad, but it is still there. So what's going to happen when the transmission "re-learns" my driving habits? Yes, I would think a knock sensor would take care of this, but evidently not.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Actually both transmission and engine can be set to re-learn behavours.
    If the engine is reset, fuel economy will decrease until the engine re-learns how to minimize its fuel usage.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I am not sure if you have been reading about this saga (see 18002, 18006, 18015/17, 18085, 18089, 18102/6, and 18124). I have swapped wires, checked compression (18085). What is WIX? Who makes a good filter?

    I will reset the codes tomorrow to see what Lucas did for me.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    It was the crank. In my post (18085), I had good compression in that cylinder 195psi for two minutes or more.

    Can I steam clean the engine and look for oil sepage?

    Also, do I need that cover on the bottom of the car? During an oil change years ago someone cut a hole in it. Over time it started breaking apart.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Okay....non-turbo. AKA as non-trouble. Does not help in the knocking/pinging department.

    I wonder if there are any tech service bullentins about this problem from Subaru. I would be looking directly at the knock sensor and related computer circuits involved. Also, the service tech needs to take a ride with you driving the car so you can recreate the problem for him since he can not make it happen. That would be my next recommendation.
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