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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Sounds like something isn't right with your engine.

    They're trying, but in the end what they're doing is unlikely to resolve it. Hang in there, and I bet eventually you get either a topend rebuild or a whole new motor. Pinging like that is not normal.
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    I agree with you that it's not normal. What I'm wondering is if the normally aspirated 2008 Imprezas will end up developing serious engine problems like some of the 2008 WRX models requiring new engines at early mileage. I haven't seen anything like that yet on the forums, regarding the lower-end Imprezas. I just hope this engine doesn't blow up on me in the middle of some road trip, 200 miles away from a Subaru dealer. I'm going to have the next oil change done by a good auto shop in town, rather than the dealer, and see what they think about what might be going on (or what they've heard anyway).
  • cptpltcptplt Member Posts: 1,075
    >What I'm wondering is if the normally aspirated 2008 Imprezas will end up developing serious engine problems like some of the 2008 WRX models requiring new engines at early mileage.

    the NA 2.5 is the same on an Impreza, Forester or outback/legacy and a different beast to the 2.5 turbo in the WRX
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... I really don't think there should be carbon buildup at 15k - especially since I don't use junk gas. If there's carbon - I wonder if it's because the fuel isn't combusting properly... I have read on the NASIOC forum that the 2008s were tuned "lean" - which, as I understand it, can lead to engine ping..."

    Maybe you did use junk gas. Junk gas would be the brands that do not have the detergent content of the Top Tier:
    http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html

    The ECU assures the fuel is combusted properly, or it gives a warning light with a diagnostic trouble code. The engine is prevented from pinging by a knock sensor that tells the ECU to retard the ignition. If the knock sensor allowed pinging, that also would bring on the light and a code.

    In your driving habits, do you start off easy, with the transmission upshifting sooner than you want which bogs down the acceleration, and then do you apply more throttle to cause a downshift back to the previous gear? The rattling could be the transmission being confused about what it is supposed to do under light acceleration. If so, using more aggressive acceleration might stop the problem.
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    I've been using either BP or Mobil gas in the car for the last year; I considered this to be adequate quality fuel. Yes, I usually pull away from a stoplight/sign with a light foot. Have always driven that way so as to avoid rear ending someone in front of me, waste gas, or squeal tires. And yes, this transmission and engine frequently act confused about what they should do! Makes no sense to me to have a car that can't readily adapt from light to moderate acceleration. Example: I might pull away from a stoplight gently, only to have to floor it seconds later to avoid some hazard. I use aggressive acceleration only when it's called for.

    I drove an 08 Outback auto trans loaner car for the day my car was in the shop (not a turbo model). Car performed *just fine* going up hills, freeway entrance ramps etc. No ping, no sluggishness. As a loaner, that car is probably driven by someone different every day, yet it knew exactly when to shift, when to deliver power. No problems.

    If a car can't seem to switch back and forth easily between driving styles, I think there's a design or other problem. Do ALL new cars do this? Why would a manufacturer design a car that won't reliably do what you tell it to do?
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Problems from bad gas go away after your get it out of the system, and it's very unlikely that any busy station has poor quality fuel. It's fuel that sits around a long time you have to be worried about.

    There's not a design problem either. There's a specific and uncommon issue with your car. And like I said, I give Subaru and the dealership an "A" for effort, but their efforts are likely in vain. It's rare, but sometimes there are bad engines.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    I did not follow this all the way to the original post, but has resetting the engine/transmission control unit memories been tried yet? If it is an oddity of learned driving style, resetting these units would clear the problem immediately even though it would likely return (if driving style remained the same) after a while.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Yep, that's been tried.
  • oldladydriveroldladydriver Member Posts: 15
    If any of you want to read more about engine ping in these late model Subarus, look at the subaruforester.org forum. There's a fairly active thread right now on the same type of engine ping problem (and I've been posting there, too). I don't know much about cars, but other folks are weighing in on the problem in that forum, as well. This doesn't seem to be an entirely isolated problem.
  • jerrys2jerrys2 Member Posts: 189
    After reading about this on the Tribeca board, I checked my '06 and discovered I have the ghosting problem with the champagne gold paint.
    Have other models had this problem? Will Subaru correct even though I am out of warranty ( 49 months, 46k ) ?
    Thanks ,

    Jerry
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    I haven't posted much lately, but I always know I can count on the crew for help!

    My 2001 Outback Wagon Ltd with 130,000 miles is making some kind of squeaking noise. Imagine, if you will, the sound brakes make when they squeak. This is happening when I am driving. I drove around a Honda dealership (just peeking...still love my Subie) and driving around the lot about 10 mph, it was making the squeaking noise. I have been hearing it at lower mph only b/c I have been driving more with the a/c on and can't hear it then. Is this of concern? It may just be intermittent now but want to know if I should bring it in sooner than later.
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Have you checked your brakes?
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    My brakes have been squeaking all along ;) This is not when I am braking though.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd grease up the sway bar bushings. Rubber on metal squeeks like crazy, and those things move as you drive and turn especially.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    I'd still check the brakes. Wear sensors on the pads oftentimes emit a squeak when they've reached a certain wear point, and they do it when the brakes are not applied.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    How often should one service the calipers? Is there a kit and what needs to be done?
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    I have the tire shop rotate my tires (it's free!) just about every time I change my oil. They're pretty good at giving the brakes a glance when they move the tires around.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Some say you should bleed the hydraulic fluid every year, but that's probably overkill.

    I spray brake cleaner and check the pad thickness each time I rotate the tires, so about every 7500 miles.

    I usually wait until 30k miles or so to bleed the brakes.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Juice, what is the process you use to get complete fluid replacement? I have read many different opinions on the subject. I certainly change my fluid less often than recommended (which seems to typically be every three years regardless of mileage), but when I do I find it tedious and messy....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I've only done it a couple of times, so I may not be the best person to answer that question.

    Any how, what I do it steal the wife's turkey baster (m-hu-hu-huaaaah!) and siphon out as much as I can from the brake master cylinder. Then refill.

    Then bleed in the proper order, topping off with fresh fluid as I go along.

    Fresh fluid is very nearly clear, the old stuff is yellow (or brown if you waited way too long).

    I may actually buy some of that blue stuff to make the process easy. Can't miss that! Stop when it changes colors! :shades:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Haha, brown... yep! I always wait too long. Especially on my old vehicles. For them, three years really goes by quickly and they might see a thousand miles in the duration! :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    What about the caliper itself and the piston? One of the pads(outer?) on one wheel wears extremely more than the other (inner).

    I do not ever recall changing the fluid. The pads, of course. The fluid, maybe one of you guys can give me a hand {smile}.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can rebuild a caliper if it's not sliding smoothly (you'd notice if it's hard to push back the caliper when you're installing new, thicker brake pads). A well greased caliper should last through at least 2 sets of brake pads, though.

    I had one caliper fail on my 1993 Miata, but it was 15 years old at the time, so I'm not complaining. Replaced it with a rebuilt one rather than rebuilding it myself (too messy, plus it's my safety at stake).

    You shouldn't need to service a caliper or piston before at least 60,000 miles unless there is a problem with the brakes.

    Having said that, you have uneven wear, so it may be worth it to have that caliper rebuilt when your next set of pads are installed. Some would even say do both sides on that axle.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yeah, I'm not really sure, Phil. I have never serviced a caliper on any of my cars, but then I *only* have had about 210 to 220 thousand miles on them. I'm sure at your mileage, all sorts of new wear items crop up! I think I would do what juice did on his - replace the unit with a rebuilt unless you have the time and inclination to rebuild it yourself. If you were having someone else do the rebuild, it might be cheaper just to replace the whole unit yourself along with a new set of pads. As I'm sure you know, pad replacement takes what, about 45 minutes from start to finish for both sides and most of that time is lifting the car and removing/reinstalling the wheels! ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Don't just replace the pads, though. First find out why the wear is uneven. You're not getting the most efficient braking if that's the case.
  • barnum1barnum1 Member Posts: 1
    What is the best way to change the thermostate in 97 Outback Legacy, the directions on the autozone.com do no match my car?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    It's pretty simple. All you need to do is drain the radiator, then put the bucket under the lower radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. Pull the hose off and drain the fluid from it. Pull the housing/thermostat off and allow the fluid to drain from the block (this is always the messiest part for me!). Scrape the gasket material off both the block and the housing, being careful not to gouge the aluminum on the water pump.

    Now, put the new thermostat in and put it all back together! When you refill the fluid, make sure the nose of the car is at an incline (probably will be if you have it lifted up for the work) and open the bleeder screw on the top of the radiator to help air escape. Once the air seems to be out of the system, I like to give a few forceful squeezes to the upper radiator hose to try and dislodge any remaining trapped air.

    Is it the "best" way? I do not know, but it works well for me, and basically did that job four times on my '96 Outback.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I am going to replace the calipers with new pads.

    Hey, what is the best way to clean the terminals on the battery?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'm no expert, far from, but my brother in-law cleaned mine with some plain old sand paper, and after reconnecting it, he sprayed on this red stuff that is purpose-made for battery terminals.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yeah, you can buy a cheap tool, probably around three or four dollars, that is essentially a tin cylinder with a steel brush on the inside. It also has a cap that comes off with a steel brush inside it for cleaning the inside of the cable clamps. You just run those tools over the terminals and clamps, put it back together, and spray the red stuff over it to inhibit future corrosion. If you have quite a bit of corrosion already, I would recommend that you use baking soda and water to first neutralize the acid (to prevent metal corrosion on the battery plate, etc) before performing the rest of the work.

    The whole job might take you ten minutes if you stop for coffee in the middle. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    The baking soda was the part I was looking for. The dealer called it a science project.

    They put the car on their computer and said that my misfire code could be from oil leaking into the spark plug(I did not change the seals in the tube). The spark plug was not tight. And the valves could be sticking (I will try some more Lucas, this time on the next six fill-ups). There was some oil pooling on top of the engine (they said I did not tighten the head gasket properly).

    The other things on this laundry list: Fuel Service, Battery Service, Cat Converter (P0420), O2 sensors, power steering rack boots, coolant service, and fuel filter. If they did all this work it would come to $3738.

    They were going to charge me $52.70 to replace the driver side headlight. I did for $9.99.

    And as I was leaving a salesmen handed me a card. With 302,823 why should I get rid of it now. 400K here I come.
  • 26cars26cars Member Posts: 19
    Wow- 303K! That's music to my aged ears; I was planning on 200K for my nearly new Forester- maybe I should revise that to 300K? (unless I croak first, of course, in which case my daughter will no doubt take it over)
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Quite an interesting note in a car advice page in the Melbourne Herald Sun today. Subaru Australia explained to them why they recommend the use of a fuel additive on a regular basis. They claim that fuel additives in some fuels result in carbon flakes delaminating from the cylinder walls when the engine cools. In a conventional engine this is not a severe problem as the carbon flaes fall onto the top of the piston and then discharge through exhaust once engine is running. However in a horizontally opposed engine (ie boxer such as Subaru), the flakes of carbon can lodge across the exhaust valves, resulting in the exhaust staying open. thus the engine runs rough until it clears the carbon flakes, if it can be stared at all

    This can also result in flooding of the engine and wet plugs. Apparently, flooding self clears after 12-24 hours when fuel evaporates off the plugs.

    Interesting if true.

    Cheers

    Graham
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wow, you are well past the quarter million mile club. Sweet.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yeah, it could be due to leaking oil I suppose. That tends to be caused by the inner seal on the valve cover allowing oil to leak into the plug cavity. The wire boots hold that oil in there and it can pool up. Mine did that on one cylinder before the second time I pulled the engine out, but I never had misfire problems due to it. I suppose if the oil found its way onto the plug itself, that could have happened.

    I hope it is not the valves sticking. Otherwise, you could be in for another run pulling the head(s).

    I still lament the loss of my Outback. I would surely be close to 300K by now. :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Dan at the Subaru dealership said that the spark plugs were not tight enough, so oil could work its way in with the engine cold. After it got hot it sealed up, that may explain misfire cold and running smooth after half an hour.

    I am using Lucas for the next 6 fillup for the sticking valves.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Well, best of luck to you for some smooth running! With all the work you have put into that car over the last many months, you certainly deserve to enjoy some more trouble-free miles out of it!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • bayarea_s40bayarea_s40 Member Posts: 19
    Well, I did it to my '99 Forester. At a gas station I banged the right rear taillight into the metal post protecting the gas pump. The lenses are smashed, but all lights work. I must replace this before the rainy season starts. The local dealer service dept. is quoting me $250. Can anyone suggest alternative places to find taillight assemblies for less$$? :(

    Thanks
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,756
    Yes. I looked up a couple places real quick, both of which were at least 50% less than $250!

    Autocenter.net lists it for $114.26.

    Rock Auto, which I have used and has great service, great prices, and good shipping rates, has it for $102.79.

    That kind of stuff is bound to happen sooner or later.... :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rich2001rich2001 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Forester with AT and I'm having a problem with my key getting stuck in the ignition when I park the car and shut off the engine. I found a procedure in the owners manual for getting the key out. You need to remove the lower half of the steering column and push the interlock release lever. The manual says to take the vehicle immediately to the dealer to have the key interlock system repaired.

    I spent some time studying this and it looks like the lever is supposed to be moved by a solenoid that is actuated when the gear shift lever is moved into park and the release button on the shift lever is released. In my case this solenoid will not move the lever reliably. When that happens the key cannot be turned all the way back into the lock position and thus cannot be removed. In this condition, the steering wheel is not locked so wiggling it from side to side does not help. I tried lubricating the lever mechanism but that didn't help either.

    So I think this solenoid needs to be replaced. Has anyone out there done this before? It seems to be located rather deep on the underside of the steering column and it is surrounded by a lot of structure and parts that look like they would have to be removed. I am wondering how involved this job would be and if this requires removing the steering wheel and dealing with the airbag, etc. I'm just trying to decide whether this job is best left to the dealer.

    Can anyone offer some advice?

    Thanks,
    Rich
  • girtskgirtsk Member Posts: 2
    We own a '09 Outback XT with 9000 miles. On 9/18/09, we suffered a broken connecting rod. Don't know which cylinder yet, but dealer suspects it is #3. Subaru authorized a complete long block replacement, and wants the dealer to let them know which cylyder failed.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You didn't happen to get water in the intake, did you?

    Just curious.

    On a Pine Barrens run with a water crossing we had a couple of cars take in water. That happened to an Isuzu Trooper. A Subaru XT6 stalled before any damage was done.

    Water doesn't compress like air.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    "... fuel additives in some fuels result in carbon flakes delaminating from the cylinder walls when the engine cools... "

    I think that car advice page in the Sep 11 Melbourne Herald Sun said cylinder heads, not walls.
  • girtskgirtsk Member Posts: 2
    It was a very sunny and dry day. We had driven about 200 miles, at interstate speeds, when I suddenly heard this loud clatter from the engine. I was doing about 75-80 mph when it happened. The dealer had it towed in, and made the diagnosis.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Anyone, how often should the filter be replace? What happens if you wait to long?
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Let's try this again.

    Anyone, how often should the F U E L filter be replaced? What happens if you wait to long?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Probably 60k miles, though I think on my Forester I also changed it at 30k.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    What happens if you go 100k or more without changing it?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Fuel filters on the Subarus pre 2005 are done 3yr/36k, after 05 they went to an in-tank filter that isn't user serviceable.

    -mike
    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I have a 2000 Forester. So what problems can or did I encounter by waiting till 100k to replace?
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