Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

xwesx · September 2009

Typically, when the fuel filter is in need of replacement (starts to get clogged), you will notice hesitation, perhaps stutters, etc., due to restricted fuel supply - especially under high-demand situations, such as a down-shift on the highway to pass another vehicle.

At least, that is my experience. I replaced the fuel filter on my '96 Outback once - at about 120,000 miles, and never had any problems. That replacement was merely preventative. I don't know if it had been replaced before that, but I bought it at 83,000 and drove it to 220,000 (so that new filter had 100,000 miles on it, too!).

phil2000 · September 2009

On my Chrysler Laser the filter was underneath the car just forward of the rear passenger tire.

ateixeira · September 2009

Thanks for the info, mike.

It was an easy task on my 98 Forester and our 02 Legacy. Guess it's not even needed any more (good to know).

On my 93 Miata it was under the car, near the passenger side rear tire. That job was SUCH A PAIN, I couldn't believe it. Even the 2nd time around, it still seemed nearly impossible. Everything else was simple, it was just that $#up!d fuel filter...

misuco · September 2009

Idle Control System Malfunction (Fail Safe), code 1507 came up a week ago on my 2002 Subaru Legacy Wagon. I reset check engine light. A week later the check engine light came on again with the same code. Is there anyone out there that can give me some advice on what might be causing this?
Thanks.

aatherton · October 2009

Have you noticed any change in idle? DTC 1507 is related to the Intake Air Control valve. The IAC valve controls idle speed by controlling air bypassing the throttle plate. It can be affected by deposits and require cleaning.

paisan · October 2009

IAC is easy to change but pretty expensive part.

-mike

paisan · October 2009

Typically, when the fuel filter is in need of replacement (starts to get clogged), you will notice hesitation, perhaps stutters, etc., due to restricted fuel supply - especially under high-demand situations, such as a down-shift on the highway to pass another vehicle.

At least, that is my experience. I replaced the fuel filter on my '96 Outback once - at about 120,000 miles, and never had any problems. That replacement was merely preventative. I don't know if it had been replaced before that, but I bought it at 83,000 and drove it to 220,000 (so that new filter had 100,000 miles on it, too!).

I'm not 100% positive, but if you don't replace it, a bypass valve will kick in, so you won't get stuck or have decreased performance, but you will have dirty fuel flowing into your injectors.

-mike

phil2000 · October 2009

The last time I recorded that is was replaced was on the 18 February 2004 with 143,673 miles on the car. Yeah, 160,000 miles ago.

My radiator is leaking around the seams, after replacing it, should I replace the cap and/or the thermostat?

paisan · October 2009

Maybe the cap, T-stat should be fine if it wasn't overheating before hand.

-mike

[Deleted User] · October 2009

Hi - I've got this whining noise from my engine, and I can also smell something metallic/acidic. I figure it's the alternator not working properly, possibly even overcharging the battery. I found some wet gunk on top of the battery and on one of the terminals. Looks like the battery is boiling. I think that can be quite dangerous...

I'll replace the alternator and possibly the battery as well. I was wondering if it would be worth getting a completely new alternator, or if a refurbished one would be just as good.

Any special tips as to how to go about the whole thing would be greatly appreciated. I am pretty much a klutz, but a friend of mine has changed dozens of alternators over the years, and his cars run quite smoothly. He has no experience with Subarus, though.

Thanks - MM

xwesx · October 2009

Sounds like it is an issue with the voltage regulator which, I think, is integrated into the alternator unit. These are incredibly simple to replace; it might take twenty minutes, tops. There isn't really anything to know.... just remove the two electrical connectors, loosen the belt w/ the alternator adjustment screw, pull the two bolts, pop the old unit out and new one in, and do the reverse to finish up. Simple.

About replacing the battery.... for me it depends on the length/severity of the issue. If the battery was low on water the lead cores could have warped, in which case I would replace it. Also, if a lot of (acidic) fluid escaped, topping it off with water will dilute the battery's acidity and reduce its holding capacity. Okay, so you can keep it and see how it performs, or just replace it. I'm almost convincing myself just to replace it. :P

forester_incv · October 2009

Looks like you've already received excellent advice. One comment though: Pick up a cheap voltmeter (DMM), maybe as little as $10, no more than $25 (RadioShack, Sears, etc). Put it on DC Volts and read the battery voltage (one probe to red, other to black terminal on battery). Engine off you should see 12-13 volts, engine on (normal alternator charging) maybe 13.5 to 14.5 Volts. Sounds like you'll be at 15-20 Volts, does sound like your regulator is shot and really over charging the battery. Also some chance it's just a bad battery, but the voltmeter (DVM or DMM) should sort that out.

PS- If your interested in modern cars at all get an OBD2 Code Reader (Amazon for about $50), for when that Check Engine Light comes on someday. Actually hadn't thought about it, seems like OBD2 should give us a voltage reading, but maybe not.

[Deleted User] · October 2009

Thanks for the replies so far.

Regarding testing the system, I do have a voltmeter, so I could do these basic checks. I do not have an ammeter, though. In any case, I am a bit reluctant to turn on the engine if it's indeed the case that the alternator is over-charging the battery. How long does it take for hydrogen to accumulate so that it might explode? If I do it outside, would I have a couple of minutes to check everything out? Mind you, I drove over 30 miles with that issue, according to when I detected the smell for the first time, and I survived...

Thanks again - MM

xwesx · October 2009

You should be fine. Maybe I got lucky, but I had a voltage regulator go out on my truck (actually, it was unintentionally sabotaged by a shop that was doing some wiring on the truck), a 1969 Chevy C20, before heading out on a trip down to Oregon (from Anchorage, Alaska). When I arrived in Oregon, I did some basic maintenance like replacing/checking fluids, etc. When I popped my battery covers, there was almost no fluid in it! I replaced the regulator (not part of the alternator on that vehicle), filled the battery with automotive-battery-grade sulfuric acid, and had no problems with it for the rest of that 11,000-mile trip (I had put about 2,500 miles on at that point). When I arrived home, though, I replaced the battery. Anyway, no problem with explosions.

For what it's worth, that was July of 1999. I finally retired that battery this spring when it did not have enough juice to crank the truck after the winter and would not hold a charge for more than about 24 hours.

It was time, though; it was time.

aatherton · October 2009

"... Pick up a cheap voltmeter... Put it on DC Volts and read the battery voltage.... Actually hadn't thought about it, seems like OBD2 should give us a voltage reading, but maybe not..."
The OBD2 port gives a voltage reading to the ScanGauge in my old Scion xB, so it should do the same for a Forester. It can't measure voltage with engine off, of course, so engine must be running.

rthompson9310 · October 2009

Long time lurker although haven't been on on a while-
2003 OB with 126K miles- took my car to get oil change and rotation and also for noise on right front where I got a basketball hung up in my wheel- well- gotta love kids.
So the "inspection" listed a bunch of stuff i should get done- some things I'm iffy about so I'll run it by here:
Fuel Injector service for $75
Coolant Flush for $90 given they told that my upper and lower radiator hoses loooked "soft" and needed replacement
Brake fluid exchange for $80 as part of brake service.
These real and/or necessary or just upsale opportunities?
Thanks

RT

saedave · October 2009

Brake fluid exchange for $80 as part of brake service This one agrees with factory ...gets rid of accumulated moisture that can corrode brake parts.

Injector service is a usual service dept profit maker.

Radiator hoses? Can't tell.

xwesx · October 2009

Yeah, same here.

Regular brake fluid replacement (about once every three years) is important as the fluid is hydroscopic, meaning it imbibes water over time.

Injector service is just a profit-maker. Especially if you regularly use a fuel additive injector cleaner (once every 4 or 5K miles), you should never need an "injector service."

Can't tell on the radiator hoses, but depending on mileage and age, they are a service item. I wouldn't think you should need to replace them or the fluid any more often than once every 100,000 miles though.

paisan · October 2009

Subaru calls for Coolant to be replaced every 30k miles, so that's not out of the question. Same goes for the Brake fluid 3yr/30k miles for replacement.

Injector stuff is a waste.

Also if you haven't had the Timing belt done, you should have that done (due at 105k miles).

-mike

ateixeira · October 2009

Fuel Injector service for $75

That's either too cheap, or too expensive.

If they're just putting in a bottle of Techron, it's too expensive.

Plus it's too cheap for them to truly do a throttle body cleaning. Mazda charged my wife a few hundred to do that on our old 626 (it did correct a major hesitation).

My guess is it's the first case - they are overcharging to pour a bottle of fuel injection cleaner in your gas tank. Do it yourself for $5-8 or so.

fendertweed · October 2009

Actually, according to my owners manual (09 OB Ltd.) and the Subie web site, "Subaru Super Coolant 1st replacement interval is 11years/137,500 miles (220,000 km). 2nd replacement interval is 6 years/ 75,000 miles (120,000 km) after the 1st."

Not sure I'd go quite that far, but my general rule of thumb is 4 yrs. or so (4-5) on factory fill and change every 2-3 yrs. thereafter.

xwesx · October 2009

They upped the interval with the implementation of the "super blue" coolant. But, you should be able to go 100,000 miles or 5 years with any good quality coolant, pre "Super Blue" or not.

aatherton · October 2009

Fuel injector service: This is usually done if there is problem, and consists of running cans of BG brand detergent through the system. If a high-detergent gas from the Top Tier list is used, there should be no need for this service.
Coolant: The 2008 Subaru Maintenance Schedule calls for coolant replacement every 30K miles, unless Subaru Super Coolant is used, in which case it is 6 years or 75K miles. You likely don't have SSC in there, and are overdue on coolant, with old hoses that should be replaced at the same time.
Brake fluid: Should be replaced every 2 years in wet humid climate or 3-4 years in arid climate.
The prices seem high, but I guess that's what labor rates are these days.

jfl · October 2009

At 105k, when my timing belt was replaced, the water pump was also replaced along with the coolant.

As Mike said, if you haven't changed the timing belt, get that done and have the coolant changed at the same time. Most new coolants (Prestone, et al) are now formulated for extended life and shouldn't need to be replaced at 30k.

Jim.

saywhat · November 2009

Hi
What are the best tires for a 04 turbo forester?
Thanks for your advise.

samiam_68 · November 2009

Yokohama Avid H4S or V4S.

paisan · November 2009

Before I answer what tires. Where do you drive? What kind of driving? What are your goals? Any modifications? Etc.

-mike
Subaru Guru and Track Instructor

phil2000 · November 2009

Can I retighten the head bolts? There is a oil leak on the head assembly near the firewall. I think of tightening the middle bolt by 22 degrees then the last one by 45 degrees.

familydadx4 · November 2009

I'm considering a 2010 Impreza. I'm hung up on the 2.5i Premium with SE or the OBS. The big question is whether the 17" tires with the OBS are worth it compared to the 16" tires on the 2.5i? I would be using the car for 98% commuting. Occasional off-road on fire roads, camping etc.. No heavy duty off-road use or racing, drifting, etc.. Is there a gas mileage penalty going to the 17"? Is a 17" tire that much more expensive?

Thank you.

ateixeira · November 2009

I would get the OBS for the better content. You get more than just those rims, and the price is very close.

Then again the Premium package is also a good value.

Don't pick by rims or tires. Get behind the wheel, and pick the one that feels best to you. The cost difference is minor, so your happiness should be more important.

phil2000 · November 2009

Can I retighten the head bolts? There is a oil leak on the head assembly near the firewall. Im thinking of tightening the middle bolt by 22 degrees then the last one by 45 degrees.

ateixeira · November 2009

You can try but I doubt it'll be a permanent fix.

xwesx · November 2009

That's my thought, too. Once they start leaking, it is unlikely that adjusting the torque is going to solve the problem.

How awful, though! It seems like you "just" repaired those things! How many miles have you put on the car since then with all your driving? It can't be more than another couple hundred thousand.... :P

phil2000 · November 2009

I followed the proceedure below:

(2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
(3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again.
(4) Tighten bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb).
(5) Tighten bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb).
(6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence.
CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°.

This is from the manual. I had trouble doing step six (6) no gauge to determine 90°. The a technician at the dealership told me a somewhat different sequence. The leak started about 302K miles. So after 15k miles I get a leak (287,007 changed gasket).

xwesx · December 2009

That sounds like the procedure I followed for my Outback. As far as the 90-degree turn for the final step, I just used visual cues to estimate the quarter-turn.

You had the surfaces planed, if I recall correctly, didn't you? If so, the mating surface should not be the issue here, but the gasket itself or, as mentioned, the torque.

The reason I do not recommend adjusting the torque is because, aside from the possibility that it may not help, the increased pressure (and possibly uneven) may be problematic when the engine warms up. It could cause undue stress on the aluminum, initiating a crack or warping the head or block.

phil2000 · December 2009

I took the head assembly to a machine shop. They replaced the valves and the the mating surface was clean. I did not ask if he planed it.

The dealer attributed the oil leak and possibly my misfire to the head gasket. I have a good mind to just let it go. There is a little pooling on top of the engine and a 16 sq in spot on my driveway each day.

rebel71 · December 2009

I am also purchasing a 2010 Impreza. I've taken both for a test drive and both feel the same to me. The few details that are different is that;
1. OBS has no sunroof and 17 in tires which cost a bit more to replace. Narrow tires 16in better in snow. Some say gas mileage is better with 16in tire.

I had an Outback wagon and you can tell that the car has higher ground clearance. I looked at the Impreza models OBS and Premium they look the same height. OBS has heavy duty suspension. You may feel a difference in handling between the two models. Best wishes on your upcoming purchase. Subaru is a wonderful car, I've had 5.

lark6 · December 2009

Apologies for this but hopefully you all can indulge me. I'll try to be as concise as possible.

Had a minor fender bender 11/12; car got rear-ended in the rain at a stop sign. Damage minor (no injuries to anyone thankfully), but car ('05 Forester XT) needed rear bumper and muffler replaced. Had estimate done 11/13, made appointment to take into shop 11/23. Shop ordered aftermarket and OEM exhaust (both per insurer, former as policy, latter from SoA in case former did not fit) 11/19.

Car went into shop as scheduled 11/23, given completion date of 11/25. Aftermarket muffler did not fit; OEM part from SoA did not arrive. As of today (12/2) car still in shop; paint/body work done on time, still waiting on muffler from SoA. FWIW shop is less than 30 miles from SoA HQ and regional parts warehouse.

Is this car so rare that SoA does not maintain replacement parts inventory? At this rate may consider looking into the variety of aftermarket grapefruit launchers on the market just to get the car back.

Rant off,
Ed

ateixeira · December 2009

Supply is just 15 days, so it may be a matter of a production line running at full tilt.

You may want to try a junk yard or something.

bigdadi118 · December 2009

www.car-parts.com is best place to find your recycled parts online ...

samiam_68 · December 2009

After driving over a patch of badly broken pavement at highway speed, my 04 FXT started to exhibit a strange behavior in the rear wheels. This was not a pothole, just a 10-15 ft stretch of very cracked and uneven road surface. The car made a noise similar to going over speed strips, but much louder.

After the incident, the car felt like a vibration at higher speeds and a slow oscillation at lower speeds, almost like a wallow, in the rear. The rear of the car felt unsettled. There was no visible damage to wheels or tires.

Took it to the dealer, they rebalanced and rotated all wheels front to back. The strange sensation in the rear still exists, so this doesn't look like a problem with wheels or tires. I'm taking it to the dealer again tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be damaged.

I can only think of a possible slightly bent axle. I don't know what else this could be.

Thanks!

xwesx · December 2009

I have to wonder if the suspension on one side was knocked out of alignment. If so, it may be trying to pull in one direction before being slipped back in line by the rest of the car. This sounds like it is pretty substantial, so if this is what happened and you have put many miles on the car since then, you should start noticing an odd wear pattern on that tire.

Oh, I probably should have asked.... does the "wallow" feel like it is side-to-side or up-and-down?

samiam_68 · December 2009

The wallow feels more up and down, but it's kind of difficult to tell for sure. The car was only driven about 600 miles since the incident, so no visible tire wear problems yet.

xwesx · December 2009

Does it feel severe? If so, you could probably isolate or rule out the axle by putting the car up on blocks and letting it idle in gear: Taking a close look at the rear tires should show a bit of an oscillation as it rotates.

My mother bent the rear axle on her '79 Trans Am one winter by sliding sideways into a curb. Just sitting there, you could not tell it was damaged. But, when she drove down the road, you could definitely feel it... it was a pretty intense "wobble."

samiam_68 · December 2009

Thanks - that's a very good suggestion. The wallow definitely is noticeable, however, I don't know what qualifies as severe. Unfortunately, I'm currently recovering from a serious injury, and can't jack up the car or do any DIY stuff for a while, plus I would have to buy a second pair of jackstands because of AWD. I will mention it to the dealer when I bring it in tomorrow.

xiong · December 2009

hey, i have a problem with my car...i went to the auto shop to get a diagnostic for my 2001 Subaru legacy gt limited, and they said i needed to change my fuel pump, thus i did. when i changed my fuel pump, the car starts, but when i try to put it in drive it dies on me..After a few days, the auto store decided to rediagnose my car and they said i need a new fuel pump again because the one i just put in was not pumping enough fuel pressure.. the fuel pump only had 5-10lbs of pressure and they said the car runs for a bit and then dies...do ya know what could be the problem?

ateixeira · December 2009

Spark or fuel, as they say.

Isn't that fuel pump under warranty?

Check to make sure all the emissions hoses are reconnected. Especially around the intake.

andy114 · December 2009

Hi.
A friend of mine has a similar issue with her 2008 Impreza. Her windshield completely fogged up while driving and she had to stop until it cleared. Have you had a similar problem? You mentioned the "real fix" for your car. May I ask what that was?
andy114
Regina, Sk., Can.

sgloon · December 2009

Yes, I had a similar problem on my ex 09-Forester. I do know that the 08 Impreza's had the same problem, as it was first noticed in them. In mine it was a heater box issue. I was exposed to all sorts of chemicals, coolant, refrigerant, some lanolin blend oil and who knows what else.

I was sick for almost a year. I finally got rid of the car in September and have a 2010 now. I am still healing my lungs and other things which were affected by the chemicals that I was exposed to.

GET RID OF IT BEFORE YOU GET SICK!!!!!!

andy114 · December 2009

Thanks for the advice. My friend is a older lady (83 years old) that lives next door. The window suddenly fooging caused an accident. Although no one was hurt, she is now reluctant to drive it since the temperatures are now below freezing here. She did get stuck with the repair bill for the cars involved. I will pass on the your advice. Take care and thank you again.

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