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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Hesitation at starting was a problem with my 1997 Legacy GT and the fault was the knock sensor. Have you checked it yet?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I thought of a simpler possibility - a sticky front brake caliper.

    Are you sure it's the engine, and not resistance from the brakes?
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    The dealer said he could put the knuckle on the bench and press it out for $99.00. Now all I have to do is get it off the car and some how get it to the dealership.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I keep a Dahon folding bike in my car for just such emergencies! :P
  • ths258ths258 Member Posts: 10
    Progressive Insurance has device that monitors your car activity via the OBD port. On a 2009 Outback, it does not record any trip activity (failed with 2 devices, although the first one worked a few days). Progressive can contact the device via the cell phone network, but there is no data to download.

    Do I have a faulty OBD port? Anyway to diagnose this further?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I'm pretty sure that all new Subi's use CAN. My older car uses ISO which was pretty easy to talk to. I've heard that CAN can be more particular. If the first one worked at all, I suspect that the problem is more likely on Progressive's side. If they haven't certified their device with Subaru vehicles, they may have to update their interface.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Any comments or feedback on whether the front or rear tires on a Subaru Forester wear faster?
    I suspect the front, but would like to hear opinions.
    Thanks.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I have 317K miles (on the 5th set) on my Forester and found that all tires wore pretty evenly given driving habits. But proper inflation and regular maintenance (balancing, rotation, alignment) is the key.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    edited April 2010
    Rear wheel bearing service failure report at 40K service miles. Total mileage on unit. 258K.

    Unit from MO came in. It had been in deep water. Rear wheel bearing was howling for some time. Like 5K miles. I was expecting the knuckle to be ruined. Turned out it was just fine. This is an AWD wagon. Tore it down. The install of the old bearing had full synthetic grease used. Found the grease in good condition, but bearing had rusted and pitted very badly. No signs of heating up! Very pleased with grease performance. Regular grease and I do not think the car would have made it all the way from St. Louis to Baton Rouge, LA. Second incident of rough service unintentional testing of synthetic grease.

    Also noted, that inner wheel bearing and intermediate seal made by National had failed. So when doing a reinstall, make sure the face of the half shaft is sanded smooth and the seal has a coat of grease. We plan to observe the National seals from now on and are considering going back to OEM seals.

    Bottom line, caution. These bearings are vulenable to water and dirt if these seals get torn up and I am willing to bet this is a common problem with Subies that play in deep dirt and water. The ones from St. Louis are road runners.

    Also, I forgot, forgive me. Slide hammer part number 05223 from Harbor freight with small enough drilled out stack of flat washers works well as a hub puller on AWD units. You want that 5 lb hammer for this. They also have a kit for pressing the bearings on car, # 66829. Works for install as well as uninstall. I also had to get another threaded longer bar with proper size washer to do the job. Both of these kits require a expert mechanic to use properly because you have to know what to push what against to do each task. About $100 buys these nice little toys.

    The following website should help with this job. www.endwrench.com/images/pdfs/WheelBearing.pdf Good luck.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    On our FWD cars we've observed that the front wheels wear much faster, but with AWD the wear has been fairly even.

    We rotate the tires every 7500 miles, and that's often enough that I have to mark the tires with chalk so I know where the tires should end up.

    This was true for 2 sets of tires on our Legacy and 3 sets of tires on my Forester.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Mine rotate around every 6000 miles.
    They are Nokian WRG2's which Consumers Union rated only fair for tread life (my tread will be down to winter wear bars within a year).
    However, Oregon roads are mostly paved gravel, very coarse and noisy, and that probably doesn't help the tread one bit.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited April 2010
    I don't mind tires that only last 2 years or so because I think the material deteriorates anyway.

    I had some Nitto NT460s on my 98 Forester and I think they lasted TOO long. There was tread left but they were noisy as anything towards the end. I replaced them with high-rated Falken Ziex 512 (short tread life).
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Yeah, three years is about right before the tire material starts to harden, resulting in increased noise and decreased traction.

    Kurt - You use the Nokian tires year-round, correct? How many miles do you have on them? Wear actually doesn't sound too bad, so far, given that the winter wear bar is typically at the 50% point of total tread life or less. If the tires are in otherwise good shape, you could have them siped to provide additional winter traction for another season.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    I have Dunlop Wintersport M2 tires on Tirerack house alloys on the Subi now, and decided to run them thru the summer to kill them off. Once they get down to less than 5/32, they are pretty useless as snow/ice tires, plus they are quite old. I'll get new treads in November.

    Problem I have is that I only average about 8500 miles a year on the OBW (75k now, at 8.5 years old). Plus I spit that annual mileage between snow and all-season tires. So I end up with tires that have tread left, but are hard and risking dry rot.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    I'm afraid I might be in the same situation now that I run dual sets on my Forester. I suspect we will put about 15,000 on it in an average year even though we have over 10,000 miles on it right now after 6.5 months.

    I took the winter tires (Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice, 13/32 initial tread depth) off about 1.5 weeks ago since most of the roads are completely dry now, and we only put 7600 miles on them over the first winter. The tires looked great when I put them away, but I have not yet measured them to see how much they actually wore.

    After three years, though, they will only have seen approximately 22,500 miles. So, even if the tires have tread, they may need to be replaced anyway. We'll see, though. When I ran all-seasons year-round, I replaced them every three years with between 60 and 80 thousand miles on them.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Member Posts: 1,798
    Yes, I run the Nokians year round - Tire Factory and Nokian told me WR G2's were an all season tire but rated for winter use. Right now there's roughly 15K miles on them. Oregon roads are very rough and probably wearing them out faster than normal - they're currently at 7/32 tread. When they get to 6/32 or so that will be near or at the winter bar limit, at which point I will replace them.

    Oddly, Consumers Union rated the Michelin Primacy MX4V, an all season tire, superior to those Nokians for ice traction, and vastly superior in terms of tread wear.
    I may be running Michelins next.
  • gordonfreemangordonfreeman Member Posts: 14
    My wife and I bought a new 2010 Outback Limited and picked it up this week. On the floor model, the windshield deicer's orange lines are clearly visible. For whatever reason, I looked at our windshield yesterday and didn't see those lines. Are they normally exposed like on the floor model or are they normally hidden beneath that black layer on the windshield? The only thing I can see on ours is a little orange dot.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Unless something has changed, the front deicer is a compact, high output version of what you have on the rear window. You should see the traces printed right on the inside of the glass on the bottom 2" or so of the windshield where the blades park.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Yep - if you don't see that, there is a good chance it is not on there. Do you have seat heaters on your car? It may be that yours does not have the AWP, so, if it should (in other words, if you paid for the AWP), then there is a problem! :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    edited April 2010
    Wow.... 15,000 miles! That really is fast wear! I have heard good things about that Michelin tire; they may be worth a shot. I like to try different tires, even if I am happy with the ones I currently use, just to see if I can find better bang for the buck. It is sometimes tough, though, to find an all-season tire that truly performs well in all situations while offering decent treadwear characteristics.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 234,725
    I bought a set of Nokian WRs for my CR-V.. Had about 29K on them, when I sold the car... Still had an easy 10-15K left...

    This was the earlier model, but I'd recommend them highly... Great winter traction, plus better (stiffer, less roll) handling on dry/wet roads than the normal crappy tires you can put on a CR-V...

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  • fbkordfbkord Member Posts: 17
    Hello everyone,
    The short block on my 2002 forster was replaced. Does this mean they also changed the head gasket while fixing the block? So far I have not had any issues with the gasket but I've heard stories.

    Thank you

    fbk
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't see how they could have re-used the gaskets. It's industry standard to replace them, so yeah.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Agreed; the head gaskets had to be replaced at the time the heads were separated from the old block and installed on the new one.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phdhuskyphdhusky Member Posts: 112
    Hi everyone,

    I was wondering what is required from Subaru for the 15k Maintenance as I have an extended warranty plan. I can't tell from the mysubaru site because it is formatted incorrectly.

    My dealer wants to do all this fluff service and charge 220. Do you know what subaru requires in order to keep up with the maintenance to be in good standing with my extended coverage?
  • fbkordfbkord Member Posts: 17
    Thank you very much for your responses. It's comforting to hear helping voices.
    Thanks again.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    The schedule for my '10 Forester lists the following:

    Interval: 15,000 miles / 15 month service
    Action Description
    Replace Engine oil
    Replace Engine oil filter
    Inspect Disc brake pads and discs, front and rear axle boots and axle shaft joint portions
    Perform Inspect brake lines and check operation of parking and service brake system
    Inspect Clutch operation
    Inspect Steering and suspension
    Perform Rotate and Inspect Tires
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fbkordfbkord Member Posts: 17
    Just do the oil change and tire rotation at a certified local shop. Ask them do the recommended inspections also, It should cost you around $100.00 the most.
    That's what Ive done with our 3 subarus and they all have over 100000 miles on them with no problem. I would recommend 30k, 60 k and 90k services done properly tho. You can also use a local shop to do these services to save money.
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I have an 06 3.0R with the 5 speed auto. I had the transmission replaced at 30K due to a shudder when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. Now that I am at 63K the new transmission is starting to do the same thing. No extended warranty.

    I just had the fluid changed in the hopes that it would solve the issue. No such luck. Now I am looking for advice. I have some questions.

    Is this at all common? Sounds like it is not based on what I have read.

    Do I just have bad luck or could there be something else wrong with my vehicle causing the damage? Bad tranny cooler, or do I even have one?

    Any speculation on what the shudder means and how long I can drive it without some sort of hard failure?

    I am thinking about talking to Subaru about a good-will repair or assistance. My only reservation is that I had intended to pass the car to my kids in a few years and I do not want to be replacing the tranny a third time at 100K. I would rather delay replacement until it actually fails.

    Has anyone ever asked Subaru for a sweetheart deal on an extended warranty? That way they get me to have a financial stake in the matter but I could maybe delay the repair until it dies.

    If I talk to Subaru is it best to work through the service manager or deal with them directly?

    Looking for any advice on how to approach this.

    Thanks.
  • sept2martinsept2martin Member Posts: 28
    Check my complaint regarding my Tribeca 2008 with 5spd auto.
    I have had it in since new. Two torque converters, and STILL the same. Mechanics at two dealerships unable to repair, even with Subaru's guidance! Subaru advises, that is the way they are and there is no repair for the problem.
    Wonder if our transmissions are similar?
    Definitely a design fault and Subaru should stand behind it. I am still under warranty and have been in touch ad nauseam with Subaru. They have never so much as answered my emails, phone calls and registered letters!!
    Would like to know who else has such problems! Maybe collectively we can do something!
    :lemon: :lemon: :lemon: :mad:
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Can you provide a link to your postings? This topic?
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    edited April 2010
    I follow these Subaru posts regularly, but i don't remember others having this problem.

    We have a 2002 Forester S, auto, just turned 80k miles. Yesterday morning while driving the car we felt a slight burning smell. No other symptoms. We kept driving the car for about 60-70 miles on the highway. When we got home, the smell was very strong and upon opening the hood a bit of smoke came out. I looked and found that the inner CV boot on the passenger side has cracked and CV grease has spilled on the exhaust (thus, the smell).

    How much damage did we do by driving the car like this at highways speeds? I am planning to take the car to the dealership ASAP, about 5 miles away, and have it fixed. Is it safe to drive it like this? What is most likely repair that they will suggest (is it likely that the CV joint need replacement?), and how much is it going to cost, approximately?

    Thanks, Daniel.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    If it is just a torn boot, and no other driveability issues (no 'clunks' on sharp turns), it may be OK to just repack with grease and put on a new rubber boot. If it got gritty in the process, it will wear quickly, and you could be looking at a replacement down the road. It really depends on how bad the split was, and what the driving conditions in this state were.

    There is a fair amount of labor involved in either total replacement or just boot replacement. Sometimes it just pays to go for a new one for the moderate extra cost over repairing what's there. Talk to the dealer about it.
  • danielldaniell Member Posts: 128
    Thank you fibber2.

    The dealership recommended that I replace the whole thing, and I agreed, since it is labor intensive. Cost is $350 + shop supplies + tax (close to $400 total I guess).

    Daniel
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    That price seems reasonable. If I recall correctly, the price of the part itself was about $200 on my '96 Outback, so it looks like they are estimating about 2 hours of labor. Based on my experience replacing those buggers, that is about right....
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    At 282K I had the following done: replaced driver/roadside knuckle, wheel bearing, seals, ball joint, and axel (half-shaft). Four wheel alignment performed. Complete repair totaled $694.90.

    I attempted to do it myself but could not get the ball joint loose. Saw the dealer performed it. A lot of the labor was to fix my mistake. I already had the half-shaft.

    I had the rear bearing and lug studs done and it ran under $500. So the price you quoted was a good deal.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    edited April 2010
    Ugh. Ball joints can be a real PITA! I gave myself a significant scar on my lower left arm replacing the ball joints on my Escort last spring. Separating them, though, has become much easier since I purchased a separator fork ($12).

    I also built a funky little tool for my '69 Chevy C20's steering knuckle (that vehicle has two ball joints on each side!) that will, with enough application of force, separate the ball joints. Once they came loose from the knuckle, I only had to use a ball joint removal/installation tool to press the unit out of the A-arm and install the new one. Compared to the $1200 estimate I received from a shop two years prior, I thought the effort involved and the ~$250 spent on tools and parts was well worth it.

    But, I digress. :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    My problem was getting the axle housing pinch bolt(?) off which would allow me to lift the housing off the ball joint. Most dealers tell me they disconnect the housing from the strut to remove the half shaft.

    Once I broke the bolt, I was left with the dealer doing the repair. I have to get another housing. Because they could not get the bolt out. I have to do the other side (319K original miles) it is due. And while I am at it I will replace the bearings too. Just wish I had a second car I could use while I work on it.
  • new_outbacknew_outback Member Posts: 3
    Just got a Brand New car last week. This Saturday while I was driving, Check
    Engine light comes on, and several other lights came on or started blinking. Called sales at dealer since the service was closed. I was told most likely it would be caused by loose gas cap. I then added more gas and tightened the cap. After several trips, short and long, the light are still on or blinking!!

    I got really frustrated now! What should I do except for having the car
    checked at the dealer tomorrow? To file a complaint? Anything else I can do?
    :mad: :mad:
    Thanks!
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    After the problem is fixed, it takes several cycles of engine start to reset the Check Engine Light (CEL). Other than hooking a computer or scanner up to it and resetting it. Advanced Auto will let you use their scanner (in exchange of you license) to read and reset the code and CEL.
  • lg05legacylg05legacy Member Posts: 13
    I have recently been noticing that my temp. gauge is spiking in stop and go traffic if I drive for about 30 mins. or more.

    Example: I'll be driving at ~70mph on the highway for about 30 minutes, then if I hit stop and go traffic, the temp spikes.

    Normally, after the car warms up, the temp gauge runs at 9 o'clock or half way between cold and way too hot. Yesterday after driving consistently at 70mph for about 2 hours on the highway, I drove around town (stop and go) and noticed the temp gauge was almost into the red.

    This is very concerning to me because I purchased my '05 Legacy as a certified used vehicle in 2009. It now has about 56000mi on it, and it is the only mode of transportation I have to get to work every day. Would anyone have any helpful information on this issue??

    Thanks in advance!
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    We'll assume that you have checked the coolant level and that you are full in the radiator, with some in the overflow tank.

    What you describe (acceptable temp gauge reading during high speed driving followed by a spike when you get off the highway) sounds all too characteristic of a head gasket problem. Fortunately, as a Certified Used, you should be covered if that is what it turns out to be.
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    I have the same problem on my 2000 Forester (320K miles). I thought it was the aftermarket thermostat I put in (it had no jiggle pin). Since there is oil leaking around the head and block (dealer said head gasket) that might be the problem.

    Could we get an explanation why the head gasket would cause the problem? Because I would think there would be water in the oil and vice-versa.
  • rebel71rebel71 Member Posts: 87
    Hi all I'm asking for the help of anyone who owns an 06-08 Legacy that has had bad wheel bearings replaced to please post when the failure mileage occurred and date if possible. I noticed that nhtsa.gov showed a TSB issued by Subaru 5/2008 for owners of 05-06 Legacy/Outback rear wheel bearings produce a "whining" sound saying it doesn't pose a safety problem, but they are covering the repair at no cost to you and extending the warranty. The reason I'm asking for your help is that I've had an intermittent noise that started at 13,000miles on my 08 Legacy(bought new) drivers front wheel area, of course the sound stops when I get to the dealer. All signs point to wheel bearing. They can't diagnose till they hear the sound.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    edited May 2010
    Phil, I'm not sure that I can give you a 'complete' explanation, but I'll tell you what I know (or think I know???).

    Surrounding the cylinder bore are multiple passages that bring coolant around the head, and oil passages that lube the cam and valve stems. The head gasket has of course the large center hole for the combustion chamber, plus these separate small ports for oil and coolant, and the head bolt holes. Net is that there is really very little gasket material in places.

    Structurally, there also isn't a lot of ribbing between the bore walls and the rest of the block. It's called an open deck design, and thus it has more flex during thermal cycling. The theory is that the flex promotes scrubbing, which eventually degrades the gasket. Initially, an outer coolant passages at the back of the block (#4 - drivers side) develops an external leak which tends to drip on the exhaust, giving a sweet smell that is the first tip-off of problems. Eventually, it allows leaks to the cylinder.

    As cylinder pressures are way higher than the water jacket, the hot exhaust gases find their way into the coolant. This causes local boiling and hot spots, which the temp gauge picks up usually prior to there being real engine damage (hopefully). It also tends to force coolant out into the expansion tank, which may overflow if enough gases build up.

    The leak is usually so small that it tends to be one way for a while - hot gases enter the cooling jacket, but little coolant finds its way into the cylinder after shutdown. Eventually it degrades, and the flow becomes bi-directional. When this happens, cylinder bore damage occurs, blocks crack from more severe overheating - end of show.

    The location of the breach also tends to not involve oil passages, and thus there is limited or no mixing of oil and antifreeze for a while until it all begins to break down.

    And this is the theory which is mine! (as a professor of mine once put it...).
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Interesting problem, e-mail back up. Let me add, are the cooling fans coming on? Is the radiator clear for proper air flow. Some people block airflow in colder climates during extreme cold.

    Another thought, if exhaust gas leak, sometimes you can find that by holding a dollar bill to the exhaust after the car has heated up. If it gets wet, you have a problem. On a cold engine, pop the radiator cap and start the engine and watch for exhaust gases to vent front radiator cap. This works with more extreme cases. Final step would be to pressure test the system. Another thought, is the correct temp stat installed. Is it opening at the correct temp? Put it in a pot of water, boil and observe the begin to open and fully open points. Never assume a new part is good! Another over looked problem would be a clogged radiator. Being a newer car, there could be some packing material stuck in it some how. Past this, it is think way out of the box!
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Subaru has quite a history with wheel bearings....period! I suspect the problems of the past extend to the present! Click on my handle and pull up the posts listed in it.

    Everyone else. Addition to the last service post on the 40K mileage service miles failure. I believe that unit was at 258K miles then. Carefully inspect the halfshaft surfaces for smoothness. Clean up or replace as needed. If it damages your seals, the bearings will fail sooner. Also, I have now verified there is no physical difference between OEM, National and Beck Arnley seals....other than price!

    Bottom line, Subies do not care for dirt or water around the wheel bearings! Keep out of the stuff or plan on replacing wheel bearings more often! That is now SOP on all of them in our fleet, including $8 a can synthetic grease!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Based on my own experience with the issue, I think your theory is a pretty good one.

    We hear often about the highway driving followed by stop/go resulting in temperature spikes, and I suspect that this is mostly a result of the reduced airflow over the exterior of the engine rather than something different happening inside the engine. When those gases get into the coolant passages, it reduces the effectiveness of the coolant by disrupting flow and, possibly, through the resulting loss of contact with the metal surfaces.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • lg05legacylg05legacy Member Posts: 13
    First, thank you all for your thoughts on this issue. Just found out today that my vehicle is still under warranty (extended Gold Plus package) so if it is a head gasket, I'll be covered.

    Second, Xwesx: Any thoughts (short of installing a hood scoop) on how to remedy this reduced airflow issue? It is somewhat of an alarming issue when you're 50 miles from where you want to be. I've toyed with the idea of switching my stock intake with a cold-air after market one...
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    edited May 2010
    It is merely an artifact of the speed of the car, so there is nothing (practical) you can do. The hood scoop won't really do anything to help on the scale you're talking about. The engine generates a lot of heat while operating and if the coolant is not operating effectively to transfer that heat to the radiator, heat loss to the air around the exterior of the engine will only do so much. It is not air flow that is causing the problem....

    Maybe recasting the block with a series of cooling fins surrounding it coupled with a massive blower fan? :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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