Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

fryingbologna · November 2003

We have had nasty driving for a week now (as I'm sure subkid has up north), and the Forester has been terrific to drive. I actually have only had the ABS kick in once - the 4 disk brakes do a great job of slowing the vehicle, and the AWD just gives so much control. I don't know what a traction-control system would add, but I can't believe it could get much better than this.

ateixeira · November 2003

Cool, Mike. Someone else did an oil analysis and it also came out normal, was it hypov IIRC?

Faye: I'd suspect a loose harness. I kind of doubt the speakers are on a seperate fuse, but check that just in case.

The Forester's radio is very easy to access, much more so than the Legacy's. If you feel up to doing it yourself, let me know and I'll try to find some pics.

-juice

ateixeira · November 2003

Yes, I agree with your point. Zero friction equals zero braking, no matter the technology.

Christine: sounds like you've had more than your share of problems. But I'll tell you...our 626 has a lot more costly problems by that mileage, so it could be worse.

The seat heater failure is rare, maybe the first I've heard of that. The O-ring seal failure on the oil pump is not exactly common, but I've seen it. Bulbs blow, that's normal for any brand. I'm sure Sylvania or some other company makes them universally, for several manufacturers. Window seals were replaced - their angle can be adjusted. See if that repair is warranteed.

Larry: thanks for the update.

-juice

a1bogard · November 2003

I had a strange problem with my '04 XS this weekend. I went to put my new license plate on the back of the car, and the plastic housings that the screws screw into started turning with the screws so that I could neither tighten nor loosen the screws beyond that point. There is still a good 1/4" of play between the screws and the license plate.

I tried everything I could think of to no avail, and I finally called the service dept. and they told me that this was a fairly common problem with Subarus for some reason and that if I brought it by, they'd fix it. I'll probably do that since I only have 700 miles on my car and don't want to risk breaking something this early (I'm a novice with car work at best), but I figured you guys would want to know and I'm interested to hear what you have to say.

Any ideas? I think that if I was able to remove the hard plastic casing on the back door under the window, I could probably get to those plastic housings from that side.

I still can't believe I ran into this problem.

bluesubie · November 2003

I did one on the OB and the WRX. The WRX UAO was very good at 5,400 miles on Mobil 1 10W30 (life still left in the oil). The OB's was also good with 10W30 GTX at 3,800 miles. I used Blackstone as well.

-Dennis

subkid · November 2003

Hi frying,

yes, I had a very nice experience over the last couple of days. You wouldn't believe it, but that very morning when we woke up with the snow and icy streets, I got up a half an hour earlier, just to take a car for a spin out there before going to work. On streets, I couldn't tell there were anything troubling. ABS didn't go off because I was soft on brakes. Actually, I figured out how bad it was only after I took my small FWD car to work (wife gets to drive Forester

). Then, I took it to the empty parking lot and started pushing it until I brought it into a skid. It was a plain ice sheet covered with 10 cm of snow. Acceleration - no problem. ABS kicks in all the time with the feeling that would be best described as a plastic gear where teeth are constantly breaking under the pressure of one's foot. I can't tell I was impressed with the stopping distance, but I was able to steer all the time. I liked the fact that after being brought into a skid, car was easy to bring back under control. Didn't feel any shifting of torque between front and real wheels or jerkiness often described by CRV owners. Over all, I was impressed with its snow/ice handling ability and a little concerned how fast I had to go to feel I'm in (controlled) trouble. There's no way I would ever, under the circumstances, go that fast in my other car. Forester successfully masks bad driving conditions, so that can cause a problems if one isn't careful.

Over couple of days, I tried to push it a little on the streets, just to get comfortable with the car before real winter starts (FYI - real winter in Canada means 50 cm of snow, -20 most of the time, black ice on highways and on top of that everybody drives like it's summer time because everybody had it enough and nobody cares any more

). It's my impression that, when pushed too fast into a turn or sharp curve, car initially under steers, then over steers and finally gets it right. But it is controlled all the time and easily corrected with only slight move of steering wheel without taking a foot from the gas pedal. And once used to it, it's very predictable.

I'll post more, once real thing kicks in.

K

ateixeira · November 2003

Note: try this at your own risk...

If it were me, I'd yank it out with pliers, then get a slightly fatter self-tapping screw to replace it.

But go to your dealer, yours is so new.

-juice

forester13 · November 2003

I filled up my 2003 Forester 2.5X with 87 octane, then didn't drive it for one day. Upon return, it took quite a bit of cranking to start up, then ran so roughly it sounded like only 3 cylinders firing.
I then let it sit for ten minutes, and it started up and ran fine.
Subaru tech guy told me Foresters need 89 octane to run right.. I've never used anything but 87 octane and never had a problem til this one instance of leaving the car sit for a day. Have always bought gas at this same place.
Thoughts?

ballistic · November 2003

As your long experience shows, 87 octane is fine. The technician was blowing smoke with the 89-octane comment.

From your description, I'm guessing your last fill-up might have included a small amount of water in the gas. By any chance was the last service station a low-volume seller?

Try putting an inexpensive can of gas-line anti-freeze into your fuel tank. It is mainly alcohol, which binds with any water in the bottom of your fuel tank so that the engine can eliminate it. It also lowers the freezing point of the water so that it can't freeze in the fuel line, leaving you stranded.

I'm not big on additives, but I typically run a can of gas-line antifreeze through my cars about once every other year.

cptplt · November 2003

hey, if you live in the midwest or anywhere where gasohol is standard, you'd be running 10% ethanol through your fuel lines everday!
I will have to admit it beats putting the isoheet in the tank in winter!

subaru_team · November 2003

in States where they use summer and winter blends of fuel, spring and fall always seem to bring complaints about vehicle performance - in such States. I think the transition is difficult for the systems to adjust too. After a few fills with the "fuel of the season" the problems abate. Just to be sure, you should always have a dealer check it out. From what I have read/learned, it isn't just a Subaru issue. I think most newer vehicles experience this to some degree.

I think there were a bunch of post here about fuels awhile ago. We do have some fuel experts here at Edmunds that were very helpful in explaining all of this.

Patti

ateixeira · November 2003

Let the fuel pump prime, also. Turn the key to the on position, but give it a couple of seconds. You'll hear a "whirr" sound, that's the fuel pump. Then start her up.

Another thing is have your battery inspected. At a minimum check the fluid level and top off with distilled water.

-juice

maverick1017 · November 2003

hi guys,

I need the experience of the crew to diagnose a possible problem. my 98L started to make a whirling noise when I take a left hand turn at speed or a curve that lean the car to the right. The noise only occurs if the car is leaned toward the passenger side, once I come out of the curve the whirling noise is gone. I had the bearings replaced not more than 10K miles ago, I don't know if they have gone bad all over again or if its something else.

Any help is appreciated.

Thank you in advance

Mike

ateixeira · November 2003

This is a Forester L, did they replaced both rear bearings?

Do a quick visual inspection of the right side suspension. Check the boots, look for leaking grease. While you're at it, spray some lithium grease on the sway bar bushings, those can squeek.

Maybe the shocks are due for replacement.

-juice

lmp180psu · November 2003

"At a minimum check the fluid level and top off with distilled water."

Why do you use distilled water? Does it make a difference if you use regular tap water? If it does, I will start using distilled water instead.

lfdal · November 2003

You want water with the lowest possible mineral content - hence distilled - the minerals tend to degrade the plates inside the battery and reduce its ability to hold a charge.

Larry

otis123 · November 2003

My LLBean just turned 50K. I noticed a strange sound coming (I think) from the rear right of the car. When I turn the steering wheel to the left - over a 1/2 turn - I get a scraping sound like metal on metal. Once I straighten the car, sound goes away. Doesn't happen when I turn right and doesn't happen when standing still - need to be going over 5 mph.

So, not power steering? Wheel bearing - but sounds like metal scraping on a rotor? Happens when not braking.

Anyone with similar experience???

Thanks in advance,

Ralph

ozman62 · November 2003

Check out my reply to your post in Legacy Problems.
Owen

grugru · November 2003

44k on my 01 S; vibrations at high speed, heavy braking. Expecting new rotors. Typical for this mileage? What are folks typically paying?

Thanks!

ateixeira · November 2003

Yep, what Larry said. :-)

99 cents at Wal Mart or Target.

Ralph: debris in the brakes? Though a wheel bearing can make a scrunching sound, our 626's did when it was failing.

grugru: check the lug nut torque. Though if it's warped it may already be too late.

-juice

grugru · November 2003

Juice - last guy on the lug nuts was the dealer when the subie got new shoes about 3 months ago. Now, since the car is at the dealer today, and they are checking the brakes, the lug nut torque originally applied becomes moot (since I assume they will have to remove wheels to check rotors). I will have nae recourse. If the rotors are warped, I guess they will turn them if there's enough stuff left, or I'll be buying new. Any guess on what to expect?

ateixeira · November 2003

If it's not bad they can resurface them. Ask them if they have an on-car lathe, those are more accurate.

New rotors at a dealer can add up, $400-500 is my SWAG.

-juice

subaru_team · November 2003

no problem - now there's a brake problem? I'm not saying it's the cause, but it bears investigation. If you want, please call 1-800-SUBARU3 with the VIN and get a case started. Please ask the Rep. to review it with me.

Thanks!

Patti

locke2c · November 2003

probably a wheel bearing, unfortunately.

-Colin

ateixeira · November 2003

Uh-oh, Patti takes action. Watch out! ;-)

-juice

fryingbologna · November 2003

I swear, I see have seen more Subarus - mostly non-turbo Imprezas - in the past week than for as long as I can remember. Its like everyone parked their "summer cars" as soon as the snow and cold hit!

fayes · November 2003

Juice - I'm not up to working on this myself, but I'm sure my husband is

. I'll have him check fuses. If you've got radio access pictures handy, that would be great, but don't go to a lot of work to find them.

Thanks,
Faye

ateixeira · November 2003

Hmm, I didn't take pics when I did the radio, I used bitman's pics and Pat's advice. But both of those were for Legacys IIRC.

Any how, you start under the arm rest, two screws come off and then the center console tilts up and out. Move forward, do the shift surround. That leaves room for the center console to come out.

It's not hard, just don't use too much force so the interior doesn't crack.

-juice

maverick1017 · November 2003

that was replaced was the RHS rear, the same one that's making the noise.

ateixeira · November 2003

Itc ould fail again, especially if they did not use the updated parts from the Legacy bin, or if it was not torqued properly.

-juice

anniedee · November 2003

I wonder if anyone out there has any idea or advice about my predicament.
I bought a 2004 Impreza TS Wagon 2 days ago. It has 48 kilometers on it. I parked the car in front of my house last night, about 24 hours ago, and did not get back into it until now. It won't start. It turns over, but then won't catch. I am in Edmonton, Alberta, and it is cold. It is -15 celsius, which is probably around 5 degrees or so farenheit.

I can't call the dealer until tomorrow morning.
Does anyone have a clue as to why this would happen?

I'll be having a good stiff drink while waiting for messages.

Thanks,
Anniedee

subkid · November 2003

It's too new to start anything on your own. Just want to remind you that your car is covered by Subaru Care, so read your papers to find out what number to call for towing (don't let them try to jump start a car).

Or, plug it in overnight and try again tomorrow morning, you might just get lucky. Make sure all the accessories are off.

BTW, where did you get it from?

K

rthompson10 · November 2003

Given that I'm a little OC about the new Outback that will be parked outside this winter(chivalrous or stupid, your call) whats the general rule of thumb on starting the car- ie when is it warm enough to start moving- when the temp gauge moves- I'm in NJ so we sometimes get a bit cold here

RT

subkid · November 2003

Hi,

that's an old topic, you'll hear a lots of opposing opinions. Generally, there's no need for long warm-ups. Definitely, not until temp gauge moves. Unless you get -20c or -30c (highly doubtful it in NJ), you'll be OK with just running it for a 15-20 seconds.

What I usually do is start a car and then go around and scrape the windows. It gives it a plenty of time to warm up properly (and I get my morning workout and warm-up too).

K

nygreg · November 2003

How much gas is in the tank? I am inclined to think that some moisture in the gas, due to car sitting on dealer lot, has frozen or otherwise giving you this problem.

Greg

nygreg · November 2003

is my summer car. Bike in it during the summer, skiis during the winter. Soccer balls all other times.

Greg

ateixeira · November 2003

Could be frozen condensation in the fuel lines, I agree.

But wow, on the first tank! You could try DryGas.

Also, let the fuel pump prime before you crank it. Turn the key to the on position and listen for the whirr the pump makes, only then try to start her.

A block heater might be a good option if you encounter those temps frequently.

-juice

locke2c · November 2003

My guess is also frozen water in the fuel, assuming it's turning over strongly.

Oh and for this--
quote: I'll be having a good stiff drink while waiting for messages.

I suggest Crown Royal, eh. Always keep it on hand for such emergencies. Well OK maybe general purpose use too.

-Colin

jlemole · November 2003

You ought to try riding the bike outside of the Subie. You'll get a better workout, plus it's hell on the seats! :-)

Jon

ateixeira · November 2003

Do you open the windows as goals for when you play soccer? ;-)

-juice

damish003 · November 2003

I've heard several folks mention that the lug nuts were overtightened during tire rotations, leading to warped rotors. I'm scheduled for my OBS's first rotation next Monday. Should I specify a particular poundage, or would I just be insulting the dealer? Inquiring minds want to know.

-Dan-

ateixeira · November 2003

Just ask the torque specs, pretend you're just curious. If they say 68-75 or thereabouts, you're fine. If they give you dumb looks, ask then to look it up!

-juice

lark6 · November 2003

Late to the conversation, but I will second (third?) the analysis of a failed rear wheel bearing. I had the same thing happen with my '00 S, even to the point where the replaced bearing failed again shortly (approximately 5K miles) after replacement.

Overtorquing led to deformation of the bearing housing and premature failure of the part. Even if torqued properly, the old design bearing still has a propensity to fail. Try to get your service department to use the Legacy rear bearing. I once posted the parts numbers for these but don't have them handy.

On the plus side, my experiences introduced me to the famous Patti (a/k/a subaru_team on this board) and a great customer service relationship with SoA.

Hope this helps.

Ed (edit: need spell checker or at least more coffee)

nygreg · November 2003

no wonder I'm not losing weight. ;(

Greg

anniedee · November 2003

Well I feel dumb. I flooded the car. My old SUV was not fuel injected and I needed to step on the gas when I turned the key. Especially in the cold weather.

So now I know not to in the Subaru.
All is fine.

It came from Rally Subaru in Edmonton.

(and my drink of choice is a nice single malt)

Annie

jimmyp1 · November 2003

there have been some good stories around here about goof ups with our cars, myself included. I mayhave the strangest one, in fact. I sustained over $500 worth of damage from a flying wheelbarrow. I'll leave it at that.

Jim

crashton6 · November 2003

If you ever manage to flood it again, just hold your foot to the floor on the gas peddle when starting. Do not pump the gas. It's the same as you would do with a flooded carberated engine. Glad you got it started.

Chuck

subaru_team · November 2003

I have to!!! Do you have a post number or can you re-tell it? I promise not to laugh at your expense, but I might smile a little!

Patti

jimmyp1 · November 2003

I have a detached garage, which means they don't finish the inside with drywall, insulation, etc. In other words, the 2x4's and rafters are exposed, which makes for easy storage, etc.

Well, I came up with the brilliant idea of "hooking" the front (and only) tire of my wheelbarrow up and over one of the rafters. Worked great for months, and nobody is confessing to bumping it, but it either did get bumped, or I hooked it a fraction of an inch too little. I came out to find my hood and driver's side front fender dented nicely. The handle also put a 50 cent piece sized hole in our jogging stroller. Uhg. The wheelbarrow is now secured to the wall, far away from the cars.

Jim

jfl · November 2003

Jim that sounds more like a "diving" wheelbarrow as opposed to a flying wheelbarrow. Wonder if it made any tricks like a twist or pike before landing. 8~)

Jim

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