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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Silicone spray? What sort... like what you would use to lubricate a squeaky hinge?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • skylar1134skylar1134 Member Posts: 1
    There's a recall for the front left suspension. Contact you're local Subaru dealer.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Yes, Make sure it is silicone. WD-40 will rot rubber.
  • meme123meme123 Member Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Hi- My 2012 forester 2.5x with pzev. We have driven it for 5000 miles so far. On 3 different occasions we have had the check engine, traction control (solid) and cruise light (flashing)come on at the same time. We took it and had the codes run on the computer-it was listing misfires on the 1st and 2nd... with a permanent code on the 2nd. The dealership took a look at the car today and said it is a problem with the ECM and that Subaru is aware of this issue and has sent out a temporary file to fix it. So-do you know anything about this issue? The lights seem to come on as we are going uphill and pressing the gas pedal.
    This is our second Forester (2009). The other one never had this issue.
  • harborboyharborboy Member Posts: 1
    hello i just bought a 2012 forester yesterday with 10 miles on it an today the transmission went out on it i cant believe i buy a brand new car an already transmission goes out wtf
  • sgloonsgloon Member Posts: 323
    edited February 2012
    Wow! Bad luck. Many states-at least mine does- have at least a 3 day "right of rescission" when buying a vehicle. Meaning you have 3 days to return the vehicle and walk away from the deal, ie cancel the contract. You get all your money back, etc. Check into it for your state. But act quick!!!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited February 2012
    I don't think so. :)

    Last I checked California had a cancellation option for used cars, but fees and restrictions applied. New Jersey has a one day cooling off period if you lease a car to review the unsigned lease terms.

    You can certainly try to unwind the deal but I think you're stuck with a warranty repair.

    Bummer but stuff happens.
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    I assume it was an automatic? What happened, exactly?
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Hmmmm, not good for Subaru to have your post here! Because people like me/brother who buy their product will consider more carefully the next purchase.

    As far as I am concerned, ECM should be good for at least 200K miles or more. If it fails before then, get rid of the car and fire the manufacturer. Yup, we harsh on them. We buy transportation not something sitting in my shop or theirs. There really is no excuse for any major driveline problems in anything for the first 200K miles with proper maintenance of course, other than abuse or accidents. That has been my atitude for the past 15+ years.

    Now, if I was you, first to the dealer to fix it, 2nd call to attorney for advice, 3rd, begin needed documentation if it turns out to be a lemon.

    A lemon from Subaru? If made in the US, I would not be surprised. We have seen a quality difference in American built versus Japanese built Subies.....and Toy's as well. Something that is considered now when buying.
  • subaru93chicksubaru93chick Member Posts: 1
    I just got this vehicle and we have been having some issues with it. First is when we drive in the interstate over 60 mph the car starts driving very ruff and the check engine light comes ON. Second once its driving I start smelling clutch oil ( like burning oil and rubber) burning when we are in 1st second gear AND when I park it you can smell it pretty darn bad. I check where it migh be leaking and I found underneath the clutch oil check is Over the muffler is where the oil has been landing on and burning. Its kinda wet down there but only in that area ( problably underneath the belts just where the opening torwards the muffler).

    Could it be the seals ? or If anything can be wrong with it I REALLy apreciated the help figuring my caR PROBLEM. :cry: :sick:
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounded familiar so I wanted to share what happened to us...

    We had a 626, and an axle boot was damaged and leaked grease. The grease ended up shorting out an O2 sensor and gave a check engine light (plus the axle was noisy).

    So one problem had a domino effect and created another. I think it was a rock or something that cut the rubber axle boot.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Member Posts: 225
    Being a 93, I could rattle off a bunch of things. Like some one said before, check the drive shaft boots. That is a good start. Damaged boots will cause vibrations at high speeds. Subaru's not cared for will develope a lot of leaks in many areas, so you better know how to deal with them. One of them, the parts are cheap, but the labor to correct is not.

    Now, based on what you said I assume a manual transmission? Is the leak over the first cat or second cat. If you can not determine where it is coming from, then you need to clean house. Get a can of engine cleaner, follow directions and clean up everything under there. Then you start watching what and where the leak is as you use the car. Tip, put cardboard underneath when it is parked at home and mark how it fits under the car. Where the drips are is where the leaks starts. Oil will also blow back from air flowing underneath as the car runs.

    Common leak points to watch on Subies are: valve cover gaskets, power steering systems and the dreaded oil galley seal. The first can be tighten a little bit, the first second and third I live with until it threatens serviceability of the vehicle. There are other sources, but these are the most common and have engine oil of power steering fluid.

    So again, I need more info, mileage, engine, model and transmission type. By the way....won't start? Oil leak? That old of a Subaru does not use "clutch oil." Are the tires in good shape also? Any bulges in any of them? Look at them carefully especially in the tread surface. Spin them and watch the tire tread for eveness. Tha year is OBD I, so check the oil level.
  • curiousengcuriouseng Member Posts: 2
    I have Outback 2004, basic model with manual transmission/ At ~101k, started getting road noise that is proportional in pitch to road speed. It is not changing with engine rpm's (absent when engine is rev-ed up at idle), it is not changing with turning or breaking or acceleration, just the road speed.

    I brought it to Subaru dealer for diagnostics thinking that they will find a bearing problem. Instead, I am hearing over the phone that they are still looking into this, dropped the oil pan, and are finding possible issue with "turbo". My engine is not turbo-charged. It seems like complete nonsense, like they are confusing my car with someone elsse's. But then I got confused by a Yahoo/answers comment "all Subarus have turbo". Is there some other part of the Outback engine/transmission that can be called "turbo" ? Is it feasible that such part would move with the road speed and not with engine speed ?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    No to the turbo.

    What sort of noise is it? A whine? Is there any vibration?

    I had an old outback that produced a bit of a whine from the rear differential the last 50,000 miles or so that I owned it (started at about 170,000). It grew progressively louder as the mileage advanced, but was constantly there, varying with speed and, to some degree, temperature (it didn't produce the noise during the winter months until the differential warmed up).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    I am trying to sell back my 2008 Outback to a Subaru dealer. Ready to give up on it. I have a summer car to get me through a few months while i decide what else to buy. Still making odd noises, and the radio and HVAC controls occasionally don't work.

    They tested it today and gave me a low ball offer. Apparently my rear trailing bushings are going and they need replacement. I have an extended warranty from a different dealership with no deductible so should this be covered? They said it is a $500 fix. ...with 44,500 miles on the car?

    Would this bushing thing make it shake on the highway?

    I just can't sell this on my own with a clear conscience knowing how annoying these issues are. :lemon:
  • aathertonaatherton Member Posts: 617
    Here's a photo of the bushing - the cylindrical rubber cushion around the bolt that holds the trailing arm to the bracket that mounts to the car.
    http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a383/Kostamojen/Impreza%20Suspension%20Lift/tr- ailingarmbrackets.jpg
    A worn and loose bushing would allow play in the rear suspension and drive that affects alignment and could cause shaking on the highway.
    Seems unusual for the bushing(s) to wear out at 44K. Maybe the car has been cornered hard or used off-road.
    Here is a comment on another forum about these bushings:
    http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/rear-trailing-arms-bushings-104446/
  • jd_24jd_24 Member Posts: 92
    Well, they lasted langer than most 2001 Subaru headgaskets do. Oil had been leaking a bit coolant seems just a touch low. Shop says $1500 to fix both gaskets and machine heads. He said something about doing some value work too, just because the engine is out of it, but I can't remember much beyond the $1500. They thought its an external leak at this point but haven't confirmed it fully.
    10 hours of labor cost. Is the price out of line? Is it worth it?
    2001 outback with 200K miles.

    --Jay
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    $1500 for both? That's the best I have heard in a long while.... if they do quality work!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • jd_24jd_24 Member Posts: 92
    They seem to do OK work. They had the car 3 weeks ago for other work. Just wish they would have noticed then. The coolant wouldn't need to be replaced again along with another oil change. Maybe they can throw them in. They've always been honest on other stuff and just about always get it right the first time.

    I think its both, but I need to double check that and get a complete list of what they are doing.

    Last summer the car never over heated but ran slightly warmer than normal. I started wondering then....sort of hoped if I ignore it long enough it would go away. :blush: Guess not. Its a 3rd car now and other than this is in good shape and ran good.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Yeah, I did mine at 192K on my '96 Outback. That was good life, I think, before that sort of work needed to be done. If you haven't replaced the water pump, now is a great time for that, too.

    I put another 28K on my car with no further problems, until the fateful night it was destroyed at 220K.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • curiousengcuriouseng Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for response, it is good to know that the differential noise can progress quite a bit and the car still drives OK.

    It was a whine initially, with pitch proportional to speed. Dealership finally opened up transmission and replaced some bearings in there, and it surely removed 90% of the noise. Kudo's to them, they did it free of charge, because they already worked on that transmission half a year ago. There is some residual component of the noise remaining, this time it is more like a very weak radio-static hiss, almost like noise from air conditioner fluids moving, except that it is absent when car is stopped, and it is still present when car is moving and radio and AC are turned off. I presume this is about some other bearing that did not get replaced, right now it is almost imperceptible, I will have to see if it develops into something more serious over time.
  • irish_girlirish_girl Member Posts: 3
    Will a 2011 Subaru Impreza hatchback hold a fully assembled bicycle (don't have to take off the front wheel)? By the way, I KNOW how to take off the front wheel. I don't want to have to take off the front wheel!
  • pathtomaxpathtomax Member Posts: 215
    Well, it turns out I had two issues going on.

    - Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
    - Front Control Arm

    The shaking on the highway is gone at least.

    Again, I bought this CPO last year and also purchased an extended warranty up to 100k. So, naturally, I didn't have to pay the $750 bill. The service department tried to make it seem so great how easy that was...I was thinking... a $750 fix for a 45k mile car?

    Now, I am just hoping the transmission fails sooner than later so the chugging and body shakes I experience almost all the time can be fixed! 4 techs and a regional manager said it was normal operating conditions for the H6.
  • mseramsera Member Posts: 25
    2001 Forester S. 110K miles. As i need to raplace the cat pipe, thinking about the Walker with extra precious metals part #54760, I noticed that the flange to my engine pipe where I need to connect too is not in great shape. Wondering if these last a lifetime of how long i should expect it to last. I can get a replacement Y pipe for 150 bucks and wiondered if i should mess with a welder putting on a new flange so i can keep it. Thanks."> I have pics of the flange but not sure how to attach. Thanks
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    I would have an independent exhaust shop -- not a chain like Midas, someone that actually knows how to weld-- replace all that stuff.

    It won't cost that much and they will do a professional job. Your year of Subaru was fairly known for rusting exhausts in that location.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited October 2012
    Location makes a huge difference on how long exhaust systems last. After 220,000 on my '96 Outback, the exhaust system looked excellent. I was looking at some Outback with a third the miles, but from the NE and midwest, and they were heavily rusted. :sick:

    My advice... if the flange is rusted out, do as Colin suggested because the rest probably isn't far behind!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    At 11 years and 100K miles my Y pipe and center (with cat) was still fine, but the flange on the muffler pipe (over the rear axle area) was rusted out and beyond repair this past summer. A shame, because the muffler itself was still fine. I debated cutting off the flanges and sleeving the pipes with some universal stock from the rack in the exhaust isle, but figured that would be a temporary fix at best.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    So, what did you end up doing?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Why I did as my dear wife instructed, got out from under the car, gave it to a shop to replace the muffler at totally exorbitant prices, and used my new found spare time to work on her honey-do list!!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Hahah; you're a good man, Steve. :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Hey guys and gals. I want to change the bulb on driver side headlamp. I typically twist stuff till it breaks.... Can someone tell me how to get at the bulb. I am sure it is obvious but the bulb may be brighter than me at this point!
    Thanks in advance
    Peter
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    My pic is 4mg on Shutterfly - is that why it didn't show?
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Bulb socket should quarter-turn twist (gently!) out from the back of the housing. Unclip, pull out, replace, re-clip, re install. Gently (again) :)

    I might suggest doing both sides at the same time, depending on the age of the bulbs. If one's gone, the other one might not be far behind..
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    image
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Nothing seems to be budging and I am also unsure what is suppose to come off - hence my fear about applying torque......I have never had to replace my headlight so it's probably stuck....what on this pic do I turn?

    Thanks
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    My bad - confused models & years. I've changed a bunch of headlight bulbs lately :confuse:
    Release that little metal retaining clip holding the socket to the housing. The bulb & socket should come straight out. No twisting needed.
    Don't touch the new bulbs during install - the fingerprints on the bulb will create hot spots leading to premature bulb failure
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Hammer, If the clip that are you talking about is the black plastic tab with vertically rectangular hole in it - that won't move.....from the picture I was able to see an arrow pointing to "on". Is the entire unit inside the serrated outer ring suppose to twist or possibly twist the serrated outer ring itself?

    Maybe I should check the passenger side.....but I think I need an 11mm wrench to take the air cover off .....which I can't find.

    The "bright" light works but not the regular beam - so I guess the single bulb on my model performs both functions?

    The good news is the dead bulb forced me to take my battery out and clean my posts! :D
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Wear thin gloves when handling the bulb, or be very careful not to touch the bulb with your hands. The oils from your skin can (probably will) make hot spots on the bulb and lead to a pre-mature failure.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Now I'm stumped. Looks like that tab should do it.
    The only other thing I can offer is if that rubber boot pulls off at that tab on top, which would expose the bulb enough to replace it.
    I found a couple 'how-to's' on youtube. Here's one, but it doesn't look anything at all like yours: :confuse:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xu2Sae3BDPU
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Thanks for the effort Hammer. I am guessing something gets turned but I can't figure out what. Nothing is budging.......
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited November 2012
    The owner's manual (page 11-57) indicates that the metal tab shown in your photo is to allow removal of the wiring harness.

    1. Lift the tab and pull the harness straight back to remove it.
    2. Remove the bulb holder from the headlight assembly by turning it counter clockwise.
    3. Pull the bulb/holder from the headlight assembly.
    4. Install the new bulb/holder and turn clockwise to lock it in place.
    5. Reconnect the electrical harness and ensure the tab locks in place.

    They make it sound so easy, don't they?!

    If you cannot get the harness off first, you can probably turn the whole unit counter-clockwise (usually about a quarter-turn, but you can feel when it separates once it starts turning), remove it, then pull the harness once you have a better line of sight on it.

    If you need a copy of the manual, I referenced it here:

    Subaru Owners Resource Center - Manuals

    2002 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Wes: You win the day. I was reading OBS as Outback Sedan, not (Impreza)Sport.
    :confuse:
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited November 2012
    Oh, gosh. I didn't even think about the abbreviation! Hopefully I interpreted it correctly. My mind recorded '02 Outback Sport when I read through the first time, but I just went back to see the original post when you wrote that (due to my confusion...) and sure enough it was listed as simply "OBS."

    Well, if the car *is* an 02 Impreza, that's the right info! :blush:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Thanks guys. I also appreciate that online manual! I had the original manual and it showed something else.

    PS. Yes it is an Outback Sport (Impreza) - seemed like OBS was running abbreviation :)
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Well, the important thing is.... Did you get the bulbs replaced?! :D
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • stackman1stackman1 Member Posts: 54
    Yes - I did replace the bulb. The online manual was good.
    I took out the battery because it was impossible to get to, then:
    1. I pushed down on the black plastic right behind that rectangular tab in the middle of the photo and at the same time pulled on the electrical connector and it came off.
    2. I twisted the serrated outer ring - it came off
    3. Twisted the base of the bulb and it came off.

    Putting it back - obvious reverse - only tricky part is lining the three narrow slots on the bulb with the lamp holder.

    Thanks for the help everyone!

    By the way - I just bought the $11 baselne Sylvania 9007 bulb and it works fine - but am now wondering about those Sylvania blue lights - any opinions on those?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    edited November 2012
    Sylvania blue lights... are those the Silver Stars? I have two sets of those, one of which I gave away when I sold the last car I owned with 9007 bulb requirements, and the other I still have, but both sets were unopened. Before I bought the silver stars, I used Sylvania Xtravision, which were very nice and a marked improvement over the base bulbs (also much less expensive than the Silver Star!). They also lasted a long time (2+ years), which is why I never used the Silver Star bulbs. By the time I sold each of the vehicles, the Xtravision were still working fine!

    On my 2010 Forester, I replaced the stock bulbs with Wagner TruView bulbs. They aren't expensive, provide a more neutral (whitish) light, and are really nice in that they don't cause hardly any glare. Of course, I don't benefit nearly as much from that as all the other drivers on the road, but I have a sight problem that makes me very sensitive to glare, so I appreciate it nonetheless.

    For your car, that would be Wagner BP9007TV2 TruView Headlight Bulb (2-pack). I think they're about $12 for the pair on Amazon right now. I don't know about longevity yet (I just installed them this summer).

    I've been thinking about replacing the sealed beam lights on my '69 Econoline with a set of housings that use 9007 bulbs. If I do that, I'll put the Silver Star set I still have in that. It will be a great use for them, too, since I tend to drive that vehicle about 100 miles a year and only during the summer (it's never dark here in the summer!). :P
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • phil2000phil2000 Member Posts: 195
    Can I use the generic blades from Pep Boys (Anco or ProLine) on my 2011 Outback?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Call me crazy (go ahead, everyone else does!!), but I still buy the imported EU spec premium bulbs from Daniel Stern Lighting (Candlepower, Inc.) for my OBW. Philips Extreme Vision H1. A little brighter, and a very carefully aligned filament to make the best use of the stock housing. Plus, I occasionally polish the exterior plastic housing to make sure it is as close to crystal clear as possible.

    When I look at the 'milk glass' lenses that many older cars sport, it makes me want to cry.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    How long to those bulbs last, Steve?

    Also, what do you use to polish your 2001's housings?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
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