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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,933
    There is a squealer on the Subaru pads but if they getting thin replace them now if you go OEM they are very cheap, aftermarket pads such as Hawk or Axis are more expensive but much better than OEM.

    Dan by all means get a second set of cheap steel rims and mount your winter tires permanently, apart from the fact that the rims could be permanently damaged the tires most certainly will sustain bead damage after being mounted and dismounted twice, you could probably pick rims up for around a hundred bucks.

     You will probably spend close to that for one mount dismount including balancing.

      Cheers Pat.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,356
    IIRC I paid about $50 per axle for OEM brake pads mailordered from 1stsubaruparts.com. (I think the price is available on their website.)

    Actually, I called them and confirmed the prices for everything and sent them Subaru bucks for the parts as they are a dealer in Washington state. They had the lower prices on the west coast.

    Jim
  • OK folks, lots of good advice there. I hadn't thought about my OEM rims getting chewed up, but I can see how it could happen. What the heck, in for a dime, in for a dollar, right? Thanks much for all your help.

    -Dan-
  • stevekstevek Posts: 362
    Via I club I got a barnd new set of tires and rims for my Legacy from a WRX owner. Many of them will swap the OEM rims/tires and sell them. I paid $400 for a set, good deal.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, I have the full set of OEM takeoffs from my WRX, only 3000 miles on them. After I see how this first winter goes with my new 17" summer tires, I may sell the old set -- they're eating up valuable garage space. In my part of VA, I don't have to worry about snow/ice too much, and I have another car I can drive in bad weather. But, I'm curious to see how the summer tires do in cold weather on dry roads. So far they have been OK down to about 35 deg. Granted, I haven't driven on a skid pad or anything, but they seem OK in regular driving so far. If I detect any issues with the summer tires, I figure I'll put the stock 16" set of rims/tires back on so I can continue to enjoy my WRX through the winter! Since I'd only be able to sell them for $400 or so, it may be worth more to keep them.

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Those old Legacy turbo 15x6.5 wheels were great...

    ...and they fit nicely on our '02 Legacy L. :-)

    Costco has mounted tires for us a couple of times, I've never noticed damage. And I would notice - I was the rims each time I rotate them. So a low price does not necessarily mean shoddy work.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    You're lucky. :)

    I choose not to take the risk!

    -c
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Maybe so! :o)

    One thing is all my tires are 60 series, i.e. not low profile. If I had a 40 or 45 series tire, I'd probably look for a specialist. In fact, some places even charge more if the tire is very low profile, because it's harder.

    But...I wonder if they use better equipment, or if that is to pay for insurance, LOL!

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    Oh yeah, those guys sweat like crazy installing the 235/40-17 tires on my M3. Takes at least 30 minutes even with two competent workers. :)
  • as a farmer, I deal with (way) too many batteries. If the battery hasn't been overfilled or you haven't been doing wild bumpy driving, the acid accumulation outside a vent cap is a sign of overcharging on one or more of the individual cells. Aside from a regulator problem, the usually culprit causing overcharging is one or more cells in the battery that are failing, causing the remaining good cells to "boil" from excessive charging. The overall battery never comes up to the "full" condition because of the weak cell(s), and the regulator continues to pump juice into the good cells.

    Don't be surprised if your battery fails after a few more hours of driving.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Imagine the 205/40R17 tires on slammed Civics. Some tire shops can't even mount them!

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If it's more than, say, 3 years old, just go ahead and replace it proactively. You don't want to wait until it fails completely and you're stranded somewhere, especially since it happens when it's the coldest.

    -juice
  • Does any one know how much ATF fluid comes out when you drain the automatic transmission for 2002 LL BEAN? Total capacity is 9 quarts.

    Alland
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    9 quarts? the 2000+ MY AT must have gotten smaller.

    Here's info I have for a '98 OB which takes 10 quarts which, maybe, might help.
     
    The automatic transmission pan holds about 4.5 quarts of fluid. If you're draining from the pan, that's about what will come out. You'll get about another 4 to 5 quarts out if you flush the torque converter.

    -Dave
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    Figure about half the capacity will come out from draining the pan alone. So about 4 to 4.5 quarts.

    Jon
  • dcm61dcm61 Posts: 1,481
    Buy 6 quarts of new ATF. Check the old fluid before draining to verify that it's full. Drain the old fluid and measure it (take an old gallon milk jug and mark it at 1 quart (or 1 pint) intervals). Pour the same amount of new fluid in. Fool proof and beats adding 8 oz, checking, add another 8 oz, checking, etc.

    DaveM
  • All,
    I have a 2001 LLBean. First Subaru and love it. I would like to change the cabin air filter myself, (behind the glove box?). And am looking for the how-to.

    I am moderately handy, but don't ask my wife; she'll disagree!
    Thanks, Dan
  • (also put this in the XT forum)

    OK, I am officially fed up with my dealer. In addition to the letter I was planning regarding my poor dealer prep (scratch on dash, dirty razor blade on top of the car from scraping stickers off car, sticker still on the roof rails, small paint scratch on pass. door and an overall dirty car) I am livid about the followup acessories.

    The sales manager gave me a due bill for additional parts (arm rest, rear diff protector, air filter) and told me I'd be called this week to arrange an appt. I called (after five business days) and they were clueless, then she said she'd leave a note for thh girl who writes the parts orders. No responsibility taken, no ownership of this issue taken by the sales manager.

    And to top it off, I realized today that my sunroof rattles when it's open. Sounds like a loose wire above the rear passenger headliner. Anyone else have this problem?

    I love my car, and feel I got a good deal, but this dealer's service sucks and the roof deal is just flat out annoying.

    Are there any addresses at Subaru where a complaint can be filed that won't fall into a void? Thanks so much for your advice/opinions/knowledge.
  • yuyaxyuyax Posts: 11
    Thank you for your replies regarding the battery issue.

    Is it correct to assume that the battery should be covered in the initial bumper-to-bumper, 3/36 warranty period?

    Note: I am also going to paste my original message, 2092, in the Sub Leg/OB Prob and Sol. board to see if anybody else can comment on the oil issue.

    Thanks again,
    Eug
  • dougb10dougb10 Burlington, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 185
    We have a '97 Outback Limited that has been in service almost 7 years. It only has 73,000 km.(45,000 miles) on it and is running like new. The battery is original and has given us no problem. We intend to keep the car for a few more years.
    Would it be smart and be proactive to replace the battery as winter approaches. We don't want to be stranded with a dead battery. Any advice?
    Thanks....Doug
  • golemgolem Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Impreza TS, 15 months old, 7500KM (4500Miles).

    When the car's engine and drivetrain are cold (not driven for long enough so everything is cooled down to ambient temperature), it makes a very noticeable thrubbing/thrumming noise, with a low level vibration, seemingly from the drivetrain, when accelerating from a stop and continues while driving. As speed increases, the frequency of the sound and vibration increases but the loudness and vibration decreases. While continuing driving, this phenomena progressively decreases in intensity until everything is at operating temperature. Even then, the thrubbing/thrumming noise is there but much less noticeable.

    I also notice that at first, the car is very sluggish, like something is holding back acceleration, until everything is at operating temperature.

    Although this may not have anything to do with the problem, this problem appeared to begin shortly after I had the last scheduled service done at the dealership, which was an oil change, fluid top-up.

    I have taken this Impreza into a Subaru dealer but they couldn't hear or feel anything wrong. The car had been sitting for 4 hours before the dealer road tested it. I was not there when this was done. They told me to come back when the weather is a lot colder and leave the car overnight so it could be road tested when it is stone cold.

    Does anyone know what the problem is? It would really help me when I go back to the dealer. I don't want to be a victim of dealership service "see no problem, hear no problem, feel not problem, therefore there is no problem" syndrome. I plan to be there when my Impreza is taken out for the next road test.

    P.S.
    This is the second Subaru Impreza I have owned. The first one MY2002, purchased March 2002, was a lemon and after continuous attempts to fix it, and problems with being taken seriously by Subaru head office until I filed an arbitration request, Subaru refunded my money but, because I generally liked the Impreza, I waited until the MY2003 was available, September 2002, and bought another one. I still generally like this car but the problems, although different, are surfacing again.
    I would like to be able to drive my Impreza for a long time so any constructive help is greatly appreciated.
  • DEFINITELY replace that battery NOW! Seven years is stretching it for any battery - if it dies on you now, you won't even be able to jump start it!
  • dougb10dougb10 Burlington, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 185
    Thanks Sam....although the general feeling is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", I am probably stretching my luck. I will get it replaced next week.
    Thanks....Doug
  • anibalbanibalb Posts: 193
    Hello folks,

    It has been a while. In the middle of this recent snow storm the windshield in my 01 outback cracked....for no apparent reason. No rocks or anything like that hit the car. At first I thought it was the ice. Sure enough, I have a cracked windshield. I just got over the 36K miles so am sure the dealer will tell me, no warranty. What should I do? It seems a defected windshield. Can someone give me the SOA number if that is what I should do.

    Thanks all.
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Posts: 112
    It sounds as though your windshield cracked due to temperature variances -- a sudden temperature change can do that. Most of my cracked windshields (about a half-dozen over 26 years of driving, but four of them all on one car -- 1988 Mercury Tracer, all stones, just bad luck -- over only a four year period) were due to stones or other projectiles. But one was due to washing the car -- it was warm day, but not really hot, and I started to spray the car off to wash it, and "CRAAAACK!" The cool water hitting the sun-warmed windshield did it. Odd, because I had sprayed colder water onto warmer glass before without this happening. Probably just a slight imperfection in the glass but needed just the right conditions to cause the crack.

    I have no idea if windshield cracks are covered by the regular warranty -- I would bet that they are like brakes and tires and not covered. The best bet is to have a zero deductible on your comprehensive insurance. Windshields are usually in the $200 - 300 range (at least they were the last time I paid any attention) so if you have a $250 or $500 deductible you will have to pay. However, the cost between a $250 deductible and zero deductible comprehensive is surprisingly little -- probably less than $25 or so per year. At that rate it will take you 10 years or so to cover just one broken windshield. Since I've done six, I'm good for sixty years!

    Anyway, replacing the windshield is a pretty simple, quick job. Many glass places will even come right to your home or office and do the job there. Good luck!

    --K9Leader
    2000 OB Ltd wagon (43K miles, my daily driver)
    1998 Toyota Sienna (93K miles, wife's ride)
    1994 Lincoln Mark VIII (103K miles, my weekend sunny-day fun car)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    7 years, wow! Have you added distilled water regularly? That's great. Mine lasted half that time. I'd go ahead and replace it, with the same battery. And keep up those same habits!

    On that TS, make sure you give the fuel pump time to prime up the pressure before you start her up. Turn the key to the On position, listen for the "whirr", then start it.

    My comprehensive insurance covers windshields, does yours? My wife replaced hers twice when she had the 626.

    -juice
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    One of my - *very few and minor* - complaints about Subaru is their use of a group 35 "battery" in my Forester.

    "Glorified 'D' cell" would be more like it... 320 CCA stock ? You're kidding, right ?

    It's almost impossible to find a group 35 battery that's capable and affordable. Unfortunately, the battery tray is so small that no other size fits, even group 75 is too long. You can't upgrade to a bigger class, the air conditioning lines are in the way.

    Does it matter ? Well practically speaking, probably not - my Forester has always started without complaint, but we also live where the avg daytime high in January is 43F. It's a small thing, but a slightly wider battery tray would be nice. I wouldn't trust the OEM battery in the mountains overnight.

    I just replaced the OEM battery at 42 months with a Nascar Select 35-84, the only group 35 battery recommended by CR. 570 CCA. You can get group 75 up to 730 CCA. Now THAT'S a battery. Other classes run much larger, but would be overkill on a 4-cylinder.

    In our case, the OEM battery had a cell going down, causing the remaining cells to overcharge and "weep". Had to clean up the spilled battery acid while I was at it.

    Where I come from, less than 400 CCA is a joke. 500 and some is reasonable, but nothing to write home about.

    -brianV, who's thankful that these are the "issues" on his mind regarding Subaru :)
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    Brian-
    a li'l expensive, but I had very good experiences with them.

    http://www.optimabatteries.com/products/pdf/34_78.pdf

    -Dave
  • bsvollerbsvoller Posts: 528
    True, they have a good rep, but man, $$$ !

    A little more space would be a better alternative, without going to exotic battery technologies.

    -brianV
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