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Comments
Jim
It could be something inside one of the storage cubbies. That's why I lined mine - I put a self-adhesive felt liner in all my storage bins. Now it stays quiet, even my coin holders.
-juice
Phase I engines are notorious for that *if* you removed the snorkus (intake silencer). I didn't think 2003s would be affected.
But...I would check for leaks in the intake. Maybe something shrinks in extreme cold and leaves a slight leak?
-juice
juice,
Where did you get your self-adhesive liner? I'd like to get some.
Also, the last time I was at my dealer, he told me that a lot of people had put soft-side velcro around the ingnition switch to keep their keys from rattling against the steering column. I tried it and it did a pretty good job. I didn't really notice the key rattle until it was gone! My wife noticed it before though.
-juice
Was it the soft velcro or another product? Have you had it on through winter and summer temperature extremes - did it stay put? Always wanted to get rid of the key noise, but slowly forgot about it...
Thanks,
Ralph
-juice
I wondered if the wiper-heater system is totally contained within the specific glass the car is made with?
I fear that this is the case, and believe it means that I am about to incur a hefty replacement cost.
Any tips/things to look out for when replacing my windshield?
Thanks for the input, folks. Hope everyone's loving the snow!
Cheer Pat.
-Frank P.
-juice
Radio? What radio?
For everyone else who's commented, my car has two aftermarket items: a radio and a hitch. Both have been checked for drain. I have been assured that the overall drain on the battery is well within the standard limits.
I've got the standard Legacy L electrical items: heater, lights, wipers, clock, front and rear window heaters, cigarette lighter, convenience plug in the back, door locks, side-view mirrors, and windows. No heated seats, no security system, no automatic starter (very popular in Anchorage), etc.
This Monday, two weeks after I received a new battery, my car was dead in the garage again. I had been out of town and the car sat in the garage for 4 days. Four days on a new battery! I jump-started it and brought it in Tuesday. Today I went to pick it up and was told they had found nothing wrong with the car; they didn't even need to recharge the battery. However, I'm driving a rental now because when they went to get my car from shop, it was dead!
This is the second time that's happened at the dealership.
I look forward to more information. If it's the radio, it was something I asked about the very first time I brought it in to the dealer, about a year and a half ago.
Cheryl
Hmmmm, you don't have a security system, hmmmm...
I can't remember the details accurately, but I remember being told that there's a harness bypass for the starter/ignition-kill which is used to close certain circuits in the event there's no OEM security system unit installed or if removed and replaced with an aftermarket. Maybe there's a fault there.
Also, don't know if it will apply to your Forester, I had encountered a problem with starting my late '98 OB that was traced to the "Fusible Link" which had a hairline fracture in it.
-Dave
It would be worth trying, I think.
Mention what Dave experienced, so they can check that too.
-juice
bit
I had a Datsun 210 that had a short in the brake pedal, the brake light would go on and drain the battery. But that too was intermittent. Turns out the spring in the pedal was worn, when replaced it fixed my problem.
The battery was fine after that.
Electrical problems can be very hard to trouble shoot if they are intermittent. I spotted my brake lights on one night when it was pitch dark.
-juice
1. Cheryl was unable to start the engine two weeks after installing a new battery, and after 4 days of inactivity.
2. She jumpstarted it, drove to her dealer, and left the car Tuesday.
3. Wednesday, she was told that everything was fine and the battery didn't even need recharging.
I'm no longer convinced that there is a short or abnormal current drain that is discharging the battery when not in use.
I am increasingly suspecting one of two problems. Either her starter (or starter solenoid) is marginal, or the cable between the battery (or alternator) and the starter does not have tight, clean connections at both ends. Either of these could cause intermittent, unpredictable failures to start even when the battery itself has sufficient charge and everything else checks out.
The first (inexpensive) thing I'd do would be to remove the battery-to-starter (or alternator-to-starter) cable, clean both ends, and bolt it tightly back on. If that doesn't solve the problem, I'd give some thought to replacing the starter.
Thanks for all your input. I'm not very hopeful, but maybe something will be resolved tomorrow.
Cheryl
Greg
)
-juice
-Dave [nuts and bolts aren't torqued right when it comes to electrical].
It took a long time, but I think I can thank Patti for the ultimate resolution. I brought her post here to the attention of the service manager in our meeting today. For the first time the dealer checked out all the wiring on my hitch and radio instead of just saying that the draw was acceptable and that the problem was my fault.
So thank you, Patti, and to all the people at SOA who escalated this. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that this resolves my problem.
Cheryl
Hope today is the beginning of a [delayed] wonder Forester ownership for you
-Dave [fingers crossed]
My mom wants to have a remote starter installed and I was wondering if Subaru has any warnings against it. Would installing one risk voiding the warranty? I made an appointment for Tuesday to have it installed, and if there is any problems/warnings I might have to talk her out of it.
Also last night she said that the fuel door got stuck and would not open using the release. There was a small amount of snow and rain in the area last night so I said the spring/release might have had some ice in it. She used a key to pry it open. Has anyone else had this problem, or is it a widespread problem ( any TSB's etc.)? Otherwise for the first 4000 miles, this car has been great.
Also, Cheryl- good luck, and hopefully your mystery will finally be solved!
bit
We'll be in touch.
Patti
Patti
I don't know much about remote starters other than that they're popular in places like Wyoming and Montana. I doubt one would void the warranty but I too have heard a story or two about cars starting all by themselves in the middle of the night. I guess you need to do some more research/talk to people who've had them installed. (FYI: a quick search of Edmunds revealed 9 topics on the subject).
-Frank P.
That is the only "issue" I have had with mine in the 6mos I have owned the car.
Hey it could be worse, my 1997 Jetta's doors used to freeze closed. I remember one time I had to enter the car through the trunk in Boston......try explaining that to the cops. "Really officer I have the key and it is my car....if I get in I will show you".
If it wasn't the whole door it was the locks in the VW.....loved that car but love the OB more now...what a snow hog.
-Dennis
fuel door would freeze if there was some melting/wet snow before and water got into the gas cap area. The "hole" has a flat bottom, so that water wouldn't leak out. Bad design? I think because a Subie is supposed to be a winter friendly car. It's difficult to just pry it out, because somebody or something has to hold a handle pulling the pin.
Remote starters - if that's an auto, it's piece of cake (at least in Canada - most of people have it). Manual requires more work and changing of driving habits - I don't think it's worth it. Cars starting in the middle of the night - mostly urban legends ), unless special type of starter is put in - there are starters reacting to a temperature of the engine, so it would start itself when temperature reaches about -15 and keep running until the engine warms up a little - enough to keep oil floating. Used in cold climate where electrical plugs aren't readily available.
K
Remote starters would have to splice into the electronics, and look at what happened to Cheryl. I would stay at a minimum stick to a very reputable installer and ask for several references, for customers that have had it for more than a year at least.
Even then you run a certain risk.
Be a gentleman and run out and start it for her! )
Keep the vehicle clean and waxed, twice a year for the wax. Slippery, clean surfaces make it harder for ice to stick to.
Same with your wheels, was them too, to keep ice and slush from sticking and throwing your wheels off balance. This is for every car, BTW.
-juice
Is anyone headed to the DC Auto Expo next week?
--dcdouglas
FWIW, the DC show is usually not that great. It's really the last of last year's shows, rather than being the first of the new year's shows. Still I go every year.
Bob
Also, have had one in my 96 Accord (112K miles) since late 1995 (at delivery) - no problems. I live in northern NYC suburbs. Would never buy a car without it. 1. The car's engine is brought up to operating temperature (better for engine) 2. The cabin is brought up/down to room temperature - cool in summer and warm in winter (better for driver).
I use it every morning - 2 to 5 minutes before heading out. Can't beat it in the summer!
2 recommendations....
1. Have the dealer do it.
2. Make sure it has the advanced range . I have to be close to the Honda - 200 feet, but the LLBean reaches up to 2000 feet. I walk out of a megamall, push the button, and the car is warmed up by the time I find it - also, helps find it in the night - it turns the lights on for safety.
None have ever started by themselves - wasn't there an old TV show with a talking car? - although, as mentioned, the Camry remote starter was supposed to start at -15F - but never experienced that temperature in the garage.
A no-brainer in my opinion...
Ralph
I'll suggest the 26th and see what she says.
One nice thing - you can usually get inside the cars that were roped off at the NY show in April.
-juice
Thanks for all the advice/opinions on remote starters. My mom had one installed in her last car ( 97 escort), and she loved it. A couple times the car would turn over and not start but otherwise it was fine. I told her about SOA not recommending them but she expects to get a warranty with the remote starter just in case something happens. If there are problems, she will have it taken out. The only problem is she is getting it installed near where I live, and she lives 120 miles away. We'll see how everything turns out. It will be installed on Tuesday. Thanks again Patti and others for the advice.
Some questions: does it only happen in cold weather? What's your ambient temp? What oil are you using?
Another common source of slapping on cold engines is the timing belt hitting the cover. I've had this happen on non-Subaru vehicles and other people have experienced it on Subarus. It can be fixed just by tightening up the timing belt on cars without a tensioner, or replacing the tensioner if it's faulty. It also may be a normal characteristic in cold weather, depending on the tensioner design.
Craig
I've an appointment with the dealer on Mon just to make sure.
I've only noticed it in cold weather-outside temp per the car therm here in NJ is high 20's/ low 30's. Got in in Oct so this is my first winter with it.
I'm not sure what oil was put in by the dealer at my last oil change
Robert
Craig
Ken
76,0000 miles on a Phase I EJ25(cue JAWS theme). I'm going to go add some filtered water to it and see what happens....
um, dumb question: How do I know when to stop adding liquid? It took quite a bit into the radiator but it will take more if I go back out there. I wonder if it didn't somehow ralf its coolant.
Good luck,
Ed
"headgaskets... how do I know? been there...
it's not a stuck thermostat, I was told that, as were many others. I went into denial when people told me it was the headgaskets. Just suck it up and accept it... sorry man. What happens is air travels from inside the cylinder thru the leak on the headgasket, out into the coolant passage. this pressurizes the coolant, forcing it out of the block. it sends it into the over flow tank, and then sprays it out of the overflow tank all over the engine bay. this happened to me about once every two months at first, then happened about once a month, then once a week, then everytime I drove the car."