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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    so you were shooting the message not the messenger? My apologies, all is clear.

    John
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Synchronizers have one and only one purpose: To permit gears to engage when they are moving at dissimilar speeds.

    Gears in a transmission are always moving (rotating) at dissimilar speeds, otherwise they wouldn't be needed. The synchromesh rings allow the dog collar on the shaft to synchronize rotation speed of the shaft and the gear through friction before the dog teeth lock into the side of the gear.

    Since a collar/shaft combination is not a gear, this case is hereby dismissed on a technicality ;-)

    And now back to our regular programming...lol
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    got it, but what we seem to be learning is that a while back the MT had a weak syncro first gear that needed TLC. Does anyone know if it has been corrected in the NA cars? I know the XT has that awful first gear ratio so presumably some work was done to the weak synchro problem.

    John
  • ballisticballistic Member Posts: 1,687
    Gears in a transmission are always moving (rotating) at dissimilar speeds,

    Always, Sam? Think about that, because it's completely false. When the vehicle is stationary and the clutch is disengaged, none of the gears are rotating at all. A non-synchronized transmission can be freely shifted among all the gears when the vehicle is stationary with no grinding. Synchros are unnecessary in that circumstance. Yet, that's what the technician who misinformed Elissa told her must always be the case - that her vehicle must always be at a dead stop in order to engage her synchronized first gear without damage. And that advice from the technician is pure baloney, which is what this discussion has been about.
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    once-for_all:
    thanks for the scoop, I was going to put synthetic in at 30 k, but this is more than once that I have heard of it being too slippery for the synchros to work properly.

    Is this true????? should I just change back to regular fluid in my manual tranny ???????
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Yes, ALWAYS moving at dissimilar speeds. When the vehicle is stationary, they are NOT MOVING at all, if they WERE MOVING, they would be moving at dissimilar speeds. Another technicality - this court requests a recess...lol

    Of course, Elissa's mechanic's statement is baloney. I think the problems with some transmissions' 1st gear failing are due to either a design flaw or manufacturing defects, not the principles of operating a manual fully synchronized transmission.

    John, the XT has a beefed up tranny, I doubt that anything short of heavy abuse will break it. The X/XS has a regular tranny, but I'm pretty sure it will be durable. The X/XS does not have a lot of power to mess up the gears, unless, of course, you do clutch drops at every launch. I had an older Legacy, and never had problems with the tranny, or the clutch, and I beat the living daylights out of it (had no choice - the thing wouldn't get out of its own way...lol).
  • andmoonandmoon Member Posts: 320
    I don't know what actual synchros in a gearbox look like but I was told that the wrx has a single cone syncro instead of the more robust dual cone. The material being brass (instead of titanium?) also makes them prone to easy wear.

    Does this mean anything to those of you who know transmissions?
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    Hey all,
    I wasn't really THAT sore about the whole synchro conversation. Just giving you guys a hard time
    ;-) c'mon now! LOL And I totally understand about a synchro's purpose and why it SHOULD not be necessary to double-clutch. I just believe that the first gear synchro may be a weak point on some subies and I'd prefer to baby them than replace them. ANYWAY...

    That being said, that same technician who suggested the double clutching and never downshifting to first also said he didn't recommend synthetic fluids in the diff or tranny since it can cause aforementioned grinding. He did however fully endorse synthetic in the engine. Just throwing that out there FWIW. I really hope I'm not starting another argument. *wink*wink*

    -Elissa
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    I've been using Amsoil 75W-90 gear oil for last 6,000+ miles without problems. Takes care of those cold winter morning gearbox stiffness.

    MNSteve
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    Friction coefficient is an issue. For your manual tranny, you might want to look at redlineoil for a possible match in a synthetic fluid. In my Gen II SHO ATX, I ran Redline D4 but my modified tranny was specifically setup with tighter tolerances to run it.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    My tranny issue is with 5th gear and it is mentioned in endwrench.com (summer 2003, I think).

    Redline has a synthetic gear oil w/o friction modifiers specifically to improve interaction with syncros.

    Jim
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Having done a significant # of 30k services, and put in Synthetics...

    Here is what I've found...

    Some of the subie trannies like synthetic (mobile 1, Amsoil, redline) some don't. It's a try and see type dealio. On my legacy I get a bad grinding in 1st and 2nd, mostly 2nd so we put in the amsoil to try to quiet it down. It got slightly better but not perfect. Gonna try the redline and see if that helps. If that doesn't then gonna go back to subaru specific gear oil, which i've heard works wonders.

    -mike
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    If that doesn't then gonna go back to subaru specific gear oil, which i've heard works wonders.

    mike - Is this what you would get from the dealer?

    Jim
  • discopetediscopete Member Posts: 21
    The Actron OBD II AutoScanner, Model CP9135, is on sale at AutoZone. Regularly 149.95, now $99.95! Better hurry...They are flying off the shelves.

    I found out that my CEL came on because of "Sensor circuit slow response, Bank 1, Sensor 1". That refers to the upstream O2 sensor, I think.

    Does that mean that the sensor doesn't come on line fast enough, making the system run in open loop mode for too long? Time to change it? Anybody know?
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Titan died on me in downtown traffic Friday. I had it flat bedded to the dealer, the one who gave me grief,I had a positive experience this time.

    It was for all the world like a dead alternator turns out the new spiral gel battery I just put in was dead would not hold a charge, the dealer lent me a battery so I could get mine changed under warranty.

     The good news was checking the problem and lending me a battery was provided no charge.
     Needless to say I was impressed and his stock has gone up a lot in my estimation.

     I am quick to dump on bad service but just as quick to praise good service.

      Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If that doesn't then gonna go back to subaru specific gear oil, which i've heard works wonders.

    mike - Is this what you would get from the dealer?

    Jim


    Yup, the only problem is that it only comes in like 5 gallon containers. :(

    -mike
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    5 gallons, about 4 qts/change, that's good for 150,000 miles.

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    both sorry and glad to hear, Pat. :)

    was that an Optima battery? I've never heard of one being DOA.

    ~c
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Hello everyone, I have a question about the stock muffler replacement for MY02. My friend has a 04 STi and is going to replace his stock muffler. I would like to take his. Would the STi muffler 100% fit into my 02 WRX? Do I need any mods on the hangers and rear exhaust pipe? Would my 02 WRX stock muffler fit on other Subaru's model? Thank you for your time and inputs.
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    My 99 Foresters head gasket and front oxigen sensor was replaced about a month or so ago. Dealer said the sensor went bad becasue of the leaking antifreeze. Now the check engine light is on, we noticed 2 things.
    1. Exhaust smells real bad
    2. Gas gage keeps going up and down

    Question, can a head gasket leak ruin a converter, I assume it is possible since (according to the dealer) it ruined the front O2 sensor.
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    the check engine light on my 99 Forester is PO463 - Short in the fule level indicator. My mechanic said to tak eit back to the dealer, should be under warranty
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    As mandated by the EPA, if your car fails a local emissions test and the fault is found to be a major emissions part (catalytic converter is the most major of the emissions parts) the auto maker must cover the expense of making it right. See http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt
    for your rights under this mandate in case it applies. -elissa
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    the fuel level indicator was not under warranty, whihc I can understand. However the dealer said when we took the car in that there is an $88 charge for diagnostic, which I can alsmost understand. However I failed to understand why that charge was not included in the repair, the repair was on top of the "diagnostinc" charge, oh well another dealer who has lost my business.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Don't feel bad, Honda did the same thing to me -twice - once for a rear window defrost relay - I troubleshot it myself and when I took it in I told them to change the relay. I didn't tell them what the symptoms were, I knew it was the relay. I specifically told them to not do anything else other than change the relay. I told the service writer if I was wrong, so be it, I'd pay for the mistake and let them fix it later.
    When I picked it up that night they charged me a $75 diagnostic fee. I asked them why, and they responded that they did that to confirm the part was bad. Grrrrrrrrr.........

    When the airbag computer went I just let them troubleshoot it themselves - it was a flat diagnostic fee. That and it was a $850 job anyway.

    Larry
  • edunnettedunnett Member Posts: 553
    I assume (with some education) that the diagnostic fee goes toward paying for the labor involved in diagnosis, not repair, and toward paying for the very costly computer software shops (dealers and independent repair shops alike) need to purchase in order to do a proper diagnosis. I had to pay $300 recently to diagnose a bad gas cap. *sigh* But I understand why they have to charge that fee so I can't really blame them for doing it. I wouldn't be so hard on those dealers. I think it's an industry standard to charge for the diagnosis. -elissa
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    If all that's involved in diagnosis is hooking up a connector to the OBD computer and reading the codes - that should be free, as I cannot possibly see that taking more than 2 minutes.
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I think I will ignore the CEL from now on unless I think the car is not running correctly, can't just run and pay a bundle of $ everytime the light goes on. Even better spend a few buck on a reader and make sure I have the one that rases codes.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    The '04 STi muffler will fit the '02s. Remember to get new gasket when you put it on. :)

    -Dave
  • ppekppek Member Posts: 58
    Stevek, There are probably auto parts stores in your area that will read your code for free. Autozone in our area does this in the hopes you will purchase your parts from them.

    Take care,

    Paul
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    I had to pay almost $400 diagnostic fee at an independant garage for my Loyale wagon a few years ago when I suddenly lost some power (they gave me a diagnostic sheet from SOA). I was told one of the cylinders wasn't working and the motor should be replaced. I went to another mechanic who found the problem. He fixed it with a $15 manifold gasket. There was nothing at all wrong with the motor. The Loyale lasted several more years without any problems. The body went before the motor ever did.
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    However when I take it to a local mechanic, they usually have the diganostic fee waived or included in the final price if you fix the car there. If they just read and wipe out the code then I am charged about $60, if I have the car fixed they charge me for the labor to install the part. The problme is that Subaru (and other manufacturers) do not release all the codes to independent mechanics therefore only the dealeres have th ecomplete up to date codes.
    This repair cost me $380 (for a fuel level sensor), if I took it to a local mechanic it would of been around $250. Live and learn :)
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Oh, as for your '02 WRX muffler, I think they won't fit on other Subaru models without some mod(s). I know it'll not fit on my '99 OBS w/o modding.

    -Dave
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    are just saying where the problem is, you still need a competent mechanic to figure out how to fix it. SOunds like the first mechanic was a part replacer not a real mechanic.
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    independent shop via our Service Manuals, etc. They can order bulletins etc. through our website (albeit with a fee to cover the cost). I know that it used to be an issue, but I think it's been addressed. I hope this information is helpful.

    FWIW - I would suggest you call in your concerns related to the diagnostic fee being added to the charges for the repair. The Rep. can report it and things like this do facilitate change. This isn't something that SOA controls, so we can't force a dealer to change a business practice, but if the dealer knows it puts a negative spin on the dealership, who knows.....

    Thanks - and I'm sorry about the whole problem!

    Patti
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I realize the dealer is in business to make money, but I also heard similar repairs cost less than $300.00. I took it in because I was hoping it was under warranty (of course this dealer wanted to charge me $1000 for a head gasket, which was under warranty).
    Charges were as follows:
    1 hour for diagnostic $88
    1.5 hours to replace the parts $120
    parts: fuel meter unit1 $69.95
           gasket $9.22
           fule meetr unit2 80.77
    I also complained about bad exhaust smell (when the head gasket blew it ruined the oxigen sensor) I think the leaking antifreeze may have damaged the converter. They told me to use different gas (has been using Mobil). At least I have it on record so if it is the converter.
    Interesting that we had numerous problme with the Forester (all repaired under warranty which is great) and no problems with the Legacy GT, they both have about the same milage.
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Thanks, that would be a waste of my old muffler. :P
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Member Posts: 1,676
    on the situation. If calling in is a problem (Wed. and Thurs. are lower volume days and you'll have less of a wait), you can send an e-mail with the details via the Contact Us section of Subaru.com. We would just need your VIN, mileage, dealer name, who you worked with, etc. If you send an e-mail, could you add a note that I'd like to see the case?

    Thanks!

    Patti
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Being on the other side of the fence on this, I understand them charging for a diag fee if you don't get it repaired at their shop. Problem I has is that people will take advantage if it's "free" and come down all the time which will hurt your bottom line as a repair facility.

    -mike
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    I agree with you if you don't fix the car then the fee should be paid (nobody works for free........I think). But if you choose to repair the car some kind of concession should be made. In my case the diagnostic took less than 10 minutes, I know because I did it before going to the dealer.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Not an Optima, identical battery, different maker, better warranty, maybe after my experience the warranty is indicative of maybe inferior quality.

    We will see, time will tell, any more problems with the battery and the sucker will be replaced with an Optima at their expense.

      Cheers Pat.
  • deepdropdeepdrop Member Posts: 89
    Hi,
    I have a 2003 Forester with Yakima round crossbars. I'm going to be driving from FL to NH and could use some extra storage space. Any recommendations on compatible rooftop hardshell carriers? The catch is, I'd really like it to work on my wife's Acura MDX that she's getting ("04). For some reason, the yakima rooftop carriers are not compatible with Yakima crossbars on the Acura. Any ideas would be really appreciated, since this costs about $300 and it would be nice to be able to use it on both cars.
    Dan
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    atta boy. :)

    ~c
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Let me guess.... My "friends" in Wappingers? Used to do me over all the time with diagnostic fees when I had the Toyota.

    Steve
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Agreed. Sometimes people are psychos in the other direction though, where they want lots of diagnostics for free, then don't get the repair there, or a significant amount of track down time for an inexpensive job and you as the seller of the service are stuck holding the bag.

    -mike
  • chrisv94chrisv94 Member Posts: 5
    I was driving home with my wife and 1 year old today when i noticed something that looked like smoke coming from the hood scoop on my "04 Forester XT. I pulled over and noticed a small amount of smoke coming from the turbo area. Now I was driving through a residential area at the time and didnt exceed 40 MPH. Any idea's what could be causing this? Being that I only have 14,000 miles its under full warrentee.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Pat-
    that identical battery, would it by any chance be "Interstate"?
    I recall they carried re-badge Optima.

    -Dave
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Wife's '01 Forester, when applying the brakes, you hear a subtle "whistle" from the brake pedal. The noise is not always there, but most of the time it is. If you haven't used the brakes for a while, you hear it when you first apply the brakes. If you apply them again immediately after the first application the sound is not there. Apply them again in a few minutes, and it re-appears. Any thoughts?

    Bob
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    these guys were in Kingston. Until now they have been pretty good, but I think they want you to buy a new car since this one is 5 years old :)
    After Wappingers insisted doing an alignment and wheel balancing on a wrecked car (before sending it to the body shop) I don't go there anymore.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Darn, no AutoZones close to me!

    That is cheap, though, I recall a group buy price in the $110 range.

    Pat: glad to hear they took care of you, and that you shared the experience.

    -juice
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