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How do we find new 1997 Ford F-150 XLT or Lariats?
The dealer invoice and MSRP pricing can be found under the "New Trucks" section. The 1998 Ford prices are the ones that first appear, but if you look to the left, you will see an option to click on 1997 models. That will give you the dealer invoice pricing for the 1997 F-150 models. Make sure to also look under the "Rebates and Incentive" area to see what may currently be available on the 1997 models. As far as what price you should pay, a good number to shoot for is generally: dealer invoice minus dealer holdback minus rebate/incentives plus 3%-5% profit. The holdback on Ford trucks is 3% of MSRP. Do the dealers still have a lot of 1997 models on the lots?
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I can use a hypothetical situation to show you how to figure out a fair price. Let's assume you have a truck with a MSRP of $23,000 and a dealer invoice price of $20,000. Let's also assume there is a $1,000 rebate and the destination charge is $640. The dealer holdback would be 3% of the $23,000 MSRP price, which equates to $690. Now we are ready to calculate the true cost of the vehicle to the dealer.
Base dealer invoice $20,000
Add:
Dest.Charge 640
------
Total dealer invoice $20,640
Less:
Rebate 1,000
Holdback 690
------
Dealer cost $18,950
Th delaer cost is how much the dealer paid for the vehicle. Now, the dealer needs to make a profit. A 5% profit would add about $950 to the price of the vehicle. So, if you could get the truck for $19,900, that would be a pretty good deal. That is $740 below the total dealer invoice price (actual dealer invoice price includes destination charges). You're below dealer invoice because of the rebate. Ford is not currently offering any rebates on the F-Series. If you back out the rebate, a good deal on the truck would be about $20,950, which is a few hundred over dealer invoice price. Usually, that's what you're shooting for, a price within a few hundred of dealer invoice. That still puts you more than $2,000 below the MSRP price we used in our example.
There is one thing that I am not sure about in my calculation. I calculated the 3% holdback on the MSRP before adding in the destination charge. I'm not sure if you are suppose to add in the desination charge before you calculate the 3%. Maybe our Townhall host, Motormouth, will answer that for us.
You can also check out the value on the used vehicle you mentioned by going into the "Used Truck" section of this site. The first thing I notice about the vehicle you mention is the mileage. This site recommends a deduction of $.09 for every mile over $14,200 on a 1997 truck. That is a deduction of over $2,000 for a truck with 37,000 miles on it. It sounds like the truck you mention, assuming a 2wd shortbed Lariat, should have a base MSRP of closer to $17,500 plus any options.
I'm not sure where you live, but if you're anywhere near Oklahoma, there is a Ford dealer there who will sell you a new truck for $99 below dealer invoice. I live in Dallas and ordered my truck from him. My price of $99 below dealer invoice is $4,200 below MSRP. The airfare to get up there to pick up the truck will be $90.
Good luck!
I would assume that any dealer having leftover '97s this late in the '98 model year would be willing to discount more heavily simply to move the trucks before they qualify for "Antiques - Never Registered" status.
My guess, in this case is to use the guide as a starting point to work downward... but I'd look to maybe split the difference in cost between what the "new" '97 prices claim and what the "used" prices (low milage) list at. Of course, the dealer will point out that the vehicle is technically "new" since it has not been titled, but you can always counter with, "Yes, but you know as well as I, that it's nearly two model years old..."
Good Luck in your search!
He/she asked me to calculate the price on the three vehicles mentioned in the first post. One was a 98 XLT, one was a 98 Lariat, and one was a used 97 Lariat with 37,000 miles. That's the reason I ran the 98 figures. By the way, do you add the destination charge to the MSRP before you calculate the 3% holdback?
you said that I could buy a Ford truck in
Oklahoma for $99 below dealer invoice.
OK is a pretty big place can you narrow it
down for me. Because I will fly out there to
get one..
They have a website at www.isbellford.com. They will pick you up at the airport in either Enid or Oklahoma City. If you know what you want, you can order by phone. That way, you only have to pay the one way air fare to pick it up. That's what I did. Of course, I don't have my truck yet. I'm at five weeks as of today, and was told to expect a 12 week wait.
i will give it a shot....
The salesperson I dealt with was Danny Ware. Just call the 800 number and ask for him. He seems to be a straight shooter.
I don't know of any similar problems with the tranny. I'm not sure the tranny can be blamed. My guess is that any manufacturer is going to say that if you had the truck in Park on an incline and your foot was not on the brake, the emergency brake should have been on, especially if the driver was not in the vehicle and the truck was on a boat ramp. With the manual tranny in my Ford, I put the emergency brake on whenever I park anywhere. Even with an auto trans, I use the emergency brake when parking on an incline. Maybe I'm overcautious. It's just become a habit.
I think it will be a tough case to prove if it goes to court, since you will have to prove that the vehicle failed and it wasn't driver error. If you're taking this to court, I'm assuming that you have had a mechanic that has inspected the vehicle and is ready to testify that the tranny did indeed fail and pop out of gear.
Ford will argue that if you had your foot on the brake when you released the parking brake, the vehicle would not have rolled backwards even if it had popped out of gear. They will probably also argue that the truck slipping out of gear could not have caused the problem because you would have taken the car out of park and put it in gear while your foot was still on the brake. If you were in gear and you released the brake to drive forward and it popped out of gear, your claim might be easier. But your claim is that you were in Park when you released your foot from the brake and Ford will almost certainly ask why you didn't put in drive before releasing your foot from the brake.
I'm just playing devils advocate here. The nuisance route with a possible out of court settlement is probably your best bet, but you probably want to get some good legal advice before you decide to spend any serious money fighting the issue. The burden is going to be on you to prove that the vehicle failed.