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Dealer said the light coming on was related to the emissions, probably a too sensitive computer. About 3 mos ago, the light came on more & more steadily, so I took my baby in. They say it needs a new Knock Sensor, it will be $180. He also says I should get a tune up, the timing belt & AC belt done in the near future.
I'd like to buy new tires in the fall.
Please tell me this is necessary right now. Money is tight, but I do believe in taking care of my beautiful car. Why do I need a knock sensor? I only use Chevron gas. Now the CEL is on ALL the time, so I guess I need to do this. :shades: thx from Barb
I also have a viscous link overheating problem (its a 99 outback with manual transmision) its locking up after highway driving and fine on cold start. Any pointers? How bad it is and is there anything that can be done without replacing it?
Code P0139 was for the rear oxygen sensor, IIRC. See if your repair order lists the new code logged that prompted their suggestion of a knock sensor. P0327 & P0328 directly relate to that sensor, but other codes and conditions could together imply that the knock sensor is the root cause of problems. Some parts stores like Autozone will read out the code for free, so that might be an option.
The knock sensor comes into play when engine demands exceed the ability of the fuel to ignite in a controlled manner. The sensor should 'hear' and report the pinging, so that the computer can retard the timing, adjust the mixture, etc., to eliminate it. If pinging/knocking were occuring but the sensor was not responding properly, the condition could be seen by other sensors as a misfire, the exhaust content could be change, etc. You could try using premium to eliminate any opportunity for the engine to knock for 2-3 tankfuls and see if the light goes out. It might provide some insight as to what is going on.
I think timing belt change recommendation is 105k miles on this engine? Anyone?
Steve
Steve
Beth
I'm not aware of the OEM alarm to have passive lock/arm that chirps, especially the earlier model years.
Usually, when the alarm chirps [intermittently] after disarming/engine start, it is the system drawing your attention to a problem that it detected. Some aftermarket alarm(s) will continually chirp to alert the driver that the car's battery is low or the system needs attention. In your case, I think the later.
You would need to identify the type of alarm that you have or take the car back to the dealer to scope the problem.
Sorry, can't be of better help.
-Dave
Most of the problems (late night false alarms, and alarm not setting) was traced back to the trip switch on the hood. It seemed to be prone to water and salt. Every once in a while, I had to clean the contact points and hit it with WD40. Rob M.
Conventional wisdom suggests that if you get 3-5 years out of a battery, you're doing OK, although some get many more years than that - that would depend on the quality of the battery to begin with.
Hope this helps.
Cheers!
Paul
The original OEM battery in my '99 OBS is still cranking strong while my OEM battery on the '03 WRX is showing signs of weakening.
-Dave
Thanks,
Heather
Fog lights probably require new bulbs. My 99 GT was notorious for needing these replaced every 6 months or so. Rob M.
has a professional servicer diagnosed the issue?
~Colin
Great news that SoA will take care of the head gasket expense.
On the tranny front, gummed up works, especially in the valve body, is a leading cause of failure. One valve sticks open while another is directed to open, and now you have two functions fighting each other. A flush and fluid change is often all that is needed to bring back a unit from the dead, provided that it wasn't left in that state for too long.
Steve
Just the same, it may be worth it if you suspect that there is trouble ahead for your car. But shop around. Two years ago I bought the 6yr/85k mile Gold plan from Subaru (zero deductable) for $799.
Steve
~Colin
I recall some folks going in reverse and hitting the brakes to manage this, but I can't say I'd recommend it.
-juice
The easy solution: turn your headlight switch to the "on" position and never touch it again. Now you have DRLs, regardless of where you live.
http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Subaru
i can't just leave my lights on because the DRL have to actually function in order for my car to pass a safey inspection.
any other suggestions?
Remove the kick panel under the steering column.... the one that is just above/around the hood release. You should be able to remove one screw near the hood release (lower left side) and another near the radio (lower right side), then gently pop it out. Flip this panel over and look at the module/s located there....
Since this is a feature not added before MY2000 in the US, the format may be different on the 1999 but my guess is that it is technologically similar. Other places to look would be along the driver side in the engine compartment before the headlamp wiring diverges, or up under the dash (with the kickplate removed) near the base of the steering column.
Your low beams do function manually, though, correct? If a relay of some kind is not found to operate the DRL function, you could manually override the low beams and bypass the column switch by disconnecting the switched wire and splicing it into the pre-switched supply wire. The lights would continue to shut off with the car (as they do when the switch is in the "on" position), but the switch would no longer toggle the low beams on and off - it would simply control the "flash" and "on" features of the high beams and the intensity of the dash lights. Haynes manuals have decent electrical schematics that should allow you to walk through the process quite easily. I hooked up a set of driving lights using it without too much trouble - just have a volt meter handy to verify the accuracy of the diagrams! Good luck; let us know if you find this elusive gremlin.
-Wes-
You better see it or otherwise your model has no DRL installed.
It has become difficult to drive, as it likes to stall when engaging the clutch.
Even once the clutch is engaged, there is very little power/acceleration until you hit a min of 3000 rpms. This is not the way the car was when it was purchased new. Slow, sluggish, unresponsive, and stalling out is not the way the car should drive.
We took it to the dealer where the service rep took a condescending tone with my wife and told her there was no problem with the car, there were no diagnostic codes reporting a problem, and that she should use better gas. Having driven the car a great deal and having always used decent gas and we've recent started using premium, which of course didn't help.
We're about to head back to the dealer for round two. Any suggestions?
beth
best..........ez
anything at all? any other symptoms like poor fuel economy or a rotten egg smell?
if it doesn't idle well, my money would be on a leak in a vacuum line or in the air intake system.
~Colin
Timing.... hmmmm.... I'd agree, except I'd expect that to be an easy diagnosis for the mechnic via the computer or just a timing light... but I'll mention it to the dealer tomorrow and report back.....
Thanks.... more info to come, no doubt
-juice
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Share your vehicle reviews
-juice
840 amps and 600 cca's.
Mike K
Once the leather is wrinkled/creased, is there any hope of getting them out?
Ken
On our MPV ES, the leather seats also show indentations from the child seats, but no wrinkles or creases - and that's after 3 full years of childseat usage. I don't use anything special under them - just a folded towel (100% cotton bath towl in a similar grey as the seats).
Are you cleaning/conditioning/treating the seats with anything? Maybe you should apply some Lexol or other leather conditioner to help keep the surface soft.
-Brian
Point 1: Enjoy your car and your kids...
Point 2: When the little ones are all grown up, get a new car!
(Spoken by the father of the 'yogurt bomber').
Steve
(PS: See you for dinner in November? Paper and tutorial presentation both accepted)
He's right, though, a wrinkle in the leather is the least of your concerns. Wait until the food fights start. :oO
-juice
PS We use a towel in my wife's car, but not mine
Also, the reply presuming no clutch chatter is accurate. The clutch feels pretty good.
It "feels" more like a problem with the throttle/power than with the clutch (although if the clutch was for some reason super "grabby", I guess it could feel the same).
Took it to the dealer, drove with a mechanic.... and of course, the car did pretty well.
I felt kind of silly. Time will tell.
I do use Lexol conditioner on the seats as well as one of those rubberized seat protectors, but I'm finding the seats leave indentations. I have them cinched down very tight so it just goes right into the seat material.
Oh well -- I guess the positive spin is that it's justification for a new car once the the kid(s) grow up!
Ken