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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • bethdbethd Member Posts: 5
    Yes, i flushed the tranny around 2 years ago ( I guess it was about 60)
  • barbseebarbsee Member Posts: 7
    Hi. The CEL has come on intermittently since I bought my (used) 2000 Legacy Outback sedan last year. Car has @900K. I know it was high miles but I just love the timberline green & black leather.
    Dealer said the light coming on was related to the emissions, probably a too sensitive computer. About 3 mos ago, the light came on more & more steadily, so I took my baby in. They say it needs a new Knock Sensor, it will be $180. He also says I should get a tune up, the timing belt & AC belt done in the near future.
    I'd like to buy new tires in the fall.
    Please tell me this is necessary right now. Money is tight, but I do believe in taking care of my beautiful car. Why do I need a knock sensor? I only use Chevron gas. Now the CEL is on ALL the time, so I guess I need to do this. :shades: thx from Barb
  • rpilrpil Member Posts: 5
    At a mechanic shop, and not a dealer, how much should one expect to pay to have the headgaskets replaced on a 96 OBW? I'm in NYC? Thanks :surprise:
  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    I'm in Boston and had mine done for $700 including timing belt and tentioner. The only problem they couldn't do a valve adjustment. They told me to go to a dealer for that. Does anybody know how much it'll be?

    I also have a viscous link overheating problem (its a 99 outback with manual transmision) its locking up after highway driving and fine on cold start. Any pointers? How bad it is and is there anything that can be done without replacing it?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Barb,

    Code P0139 was for the rear oxygen sensor, IIRC. See if your repair order lists the new code logged that prompted their suggestion of a knock sensor. P0327 & P0328 directly relate to that sensor, but other codes and conditions could together imply that the knock sensor is the root cause of problems. Some parts stores like Autozone will read out the code for free, so that might be an option.

    The knock sensor comes into play when engine demands exceed the ability of the fuel to ignite in a controlled manner. The sensor should 'hear' and report the pinging, so that the computer can retard the timing, adjust the mixture, etc., to eliminate it. If pinging/knocking were occuring but the sensor was not responding properly, the condition could be seen by other sensors as a misfire, the exhaust content could be change, etc. You could try using premium to eliminate any opportunity for the engine to knock for 2-3 tankfuls and see if the light goes out. It might provide some insight as to what is going on.

    I think timing belt change recommendation is 105k miles on this engine? Anyone?

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    My friend had his '99 OBW (same DOHC engine, I believe...) done just north of you (near Poughkeepsie) at a very reputable shop that I know well. Gaskets on both heads, mild resurfacing to remove warpage, timing & accessory belts, water pump, etc. and the tow from 30 miles away ran him about $2k.

    Steve
  • bethdbethd Member Posts: 5
    In the month of May there were several posts regarding transmission problems in outbakc and foresters? How have the problems been resolved? Has SOA done anything?
    Beth
  • inhisgripinhisgrip Member Posts: 6
    Just purchased an '02 VDC Wagon w/45k. Clean CarFax report, no current major (visible) problems - though the steering column grinds when turning the wheel (sounds like dry bearings), and the drivers window is more loose than the passengers (causing more wind noise). I plan on driving between 30-40K/per year, so the 4/48 warranty will really last me only 2 years at best. I'll probably sell/trade it in two years. Reading through posts, it seems there may be tranny or rotor problems in the near future. Being that warranty is only going to last 2 years at best - should I purchase it? Cost is about $1,900 - which could be used to pay it off or put aside for potential repairs. Any ideas?
  • fresnokenfresnoken Member Posts: 1
    I am looking for information regarding "glazing" of the breaks on my 2002 Forester. The dealership has "ground" (my rotors, I think) three times after I have taken it in for loud, grinding noise when I break, which becomes increasingly louder to the point my kids complain about it in the back. They have called me each time I've taken it in and asked me if either a) I have been driving it around with the parking break on or, b) if I have been towing something with it. Always the answer is no, and it sounds better for about 2 days and then comes back. The mechanic assures me there is plenty of pad left on the breaks and that replacing them would not eliminate the problem, for sure. He also assures me that the "glazing" is not going to interfere with breaking for safety needs, but I am becoming frustrated and concerned. Most of the things I have been reading on line refer to race cars and high performance cars. That hardly relates to how I use my forester. I am anxious to get more information before I go to the dealership again, and I am wondering if I need to find a new mechanic as well. Any info would be appreciated.
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Doesn't sound like your '97 OB has an OEM alarm; aftermarket may be more so.
    I'm not aware of the OEM alarm to have passive lock/arm that chirps, especially the earlier model years.

    Usually, when the alarm chirps [intermittently] after disarming/engine start, it is the system drawing your attention to a problem that it detected. Some aftermarket alarm(s) will continually chirp to alert the driver that the car's battery is low or the system needs attention. In your case, I think the later.

    You would need to identify the type of alarm that you have or take the car back to the dealer to scope the problem.

    Sorry, can't be of better help.

    -Dave
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    I had a CODE aftermarket alarm installed in my 96 Outback right after it was purchased.

    Most of the problems (late night false alarms, and alarm not setting) was traced back to the trip switch on the hood. It seemed to be prone to water and salt. Every once in a while, I had to clean the contact points and hit it with WD40. Rob M.
  • ebony5ebony5 Member Posts: 142
    The current battery in my '96 OBW was purchased In March 2002. Planning ahead, when do I need to replace the battery and what are good options in the mid to low price range for northern climates. I live in New York City but travel to the Catskill and Berkshire Mountains during the winter. Thanks.........
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    All other things being equal, buy the most CCA's (cold cranking amps) you can afford. That's more or less a measure of a battery's reserve capacity - how much power it can provide when you really need it (starting cold engine on a very cold day, for example).

    Conventional wisdom suggests that if you get 3-5 years out of a battery, you're doing OK, although some get many more years than that - that would depend on the quality of the battery to begin with.

    Hope this helps.
    Cheers!
    Paul
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    so true

    The original OEM battery in my '99 OBS is still cranking strong while my OEM battery on the '03 WRX is showing signs of weakening.

    -Dave
  • bodhiviewbodhiview Member Posts: 7
    Hi- I bought my 2003 Outback from dealer last year. They won't fix the noise and it is incredible. I am having the decibals measured tomorrow. What was the result of your litigation? Thanks.
  • hmyershmyers Member Posts: 14
    I need to get my vehicle safetied in order to sell it and the daytime running lights and the fog lights are not working. Does anyone know if this could be as simple as a fuse, and if so, which one. Or what else could be the problem?

    Thanks,
    Heather
  • rob_mrob_m Member Posts: 820
    There are no daytime running lights on the 99 Outback. I believe this was a feature starting in 2000.

    Fog lights probably require new bulbs. My 99 GT was notorious for needing these replaced every 6 months or so. Rob M.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    a grinding steering column is not typical. is the noise definitely coming from the column? is it up top near the steering wheel and ignition barrel, or is it lower-- under the car?

    has a professional servicer diagnosed the issue?

    ~Colin
  • hmyershmyers Member Posts: 14
    i thought that DRL were used from 1994 on in subarus in canada. could this be that i have an outback that was destined for the US (no DRL needed) but ended up in canada?
  • grantbgrantb Member Posts: 2
    I have an '03 Impreza TS that I bought brand new while living in Canada. As far as I know it is the same as an RS wagon (2.5 L motor, etc). I think I have a viscous link problem. If I start it cold and drive it everything is fine but when I run the car on the highway for a while then try to make sharp turns I get a shudder in the car that made me feel like I was driving an old 4WD SUV with problems. I took it to the dealer but by the time they did a road test the car was cold and the problem was not found. When I picked up the car and drove it to work the problem reappeared after a drive on the highway. Has anyone else had these sorts of problems?
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Beth,

    Great news that SoA will take care of the head gasket expense.

    On the tranny front, gummed up works, especially in the valve body, is a leading cause of failure. One valve sticks open while another is directed to open, and now you have two functions fighting each other. A flush and fluid change is often all that is needed to bring back a unit from the dead, provided that it wasn't left in that state for too long.

    Steve
  • grantbgrantb Member Posts: 2
    For clarity I'll point out that in Canada the law required all cars to have some sort of DRL's starting in 1990. Some cars (not specifically Subaru) retrofitted the headlights to come on full power at all times while others made a more appropraite change. Most of the retrofits came only in 1990 with '91 model cars having either a lower power headlight running or running different lights altogether.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    IIRC, in order to obtain a Subaru factory extended warranty, you must purchase it while the car is within the 3yr/36k base vehicle warranty. So it sounds like you are dealing with an independent 'insurance' plan. Study it carefully, especially the provisions dealing with who pays when the plan goes out of business! It has happened to way too many people in the past two years to ignore this possibility.

    Just the same, it may be worth it if you suspect that there is trouble ahead for your car. But shop around. Two years ago I bought the 6yr/85k mile Gold plan from Subaru (zero deductable) for $799.

    Steve
  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    Its a viscous link problem if you have a manual shift. Automatic transmission doesn't have it. In automatic it's something else, more likely rear differential clutch or whatever it's called. The problem is that viscous link part cost about $400 and it sits inside transmission and it's a full day job, so you better have a warranty left on you car. Otherwise, in my case warranly is expired and I was thinkig to flush the transmission and fill it with blue oil. Will it make any difference? Any other ideas, anybody?
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    actually the viscous coupling is a separate device outside of the transmission that is between the tailshaft of the transmission and the driveshaft. it can be replaced separately.

    ~Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The term I've heard them use is "scuff", as in they scuff the pads, i.e. sand down the glazed part. Rotors are machined with a lathe, not ground.

    I recall some folks going in reverse and hitting the brakes to manage this, but I can't say I'd recommend it.

    -juice
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Change the differential fluid - that usually helps.
  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    I was told that transmission has to come out in order to do that, is it true or they just want to rip me off?
  • hmyershmyers Member Posts: 14
    does anyone know where i look for the module/relay for the daytime running lights? my headlights work, but my DRL doesn't. could this be some sort of sensor problem? it's a 99 outback legacy (canadian). any help would be appreciated. thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Out of curiosity, what are the DRLs on the '99? Are they just the low beams, set to be on with the car? Are they the fog lamps? AFAIK, there were not dedicated lamps on the '99 for DRLs.

    The easy solution: turn your headlight switch to the "on" position and never touch it again. Now you have DRLs, regardless of where you live. ;)
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    Did you buy it used? It possible that its previous owner disable the DRL. Check this link
    http://www.lightsout.org/disable.html#Subaru
  • hmyershmyers Member Posts: 14
    i did buy it used and i checked out the possibility that the previous owner disabled them, but I don't see any plastic modules bolted to the steering column.
    i can't just leave my lights on because the DRL have to actually function in order for my car to pass a safey inspection.
    any other suggestions?
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Ah. I did not realize that the DRL was required for an inspection. Seems like an odd trinket to include in an inspection considering that it is a redundant feature. Anyway, it is likely that the module is located near the steering column.

    Remove the kick panel under the steering column.... the one that is just above/around the hood release. You should be able to remove one screw near the hood release (lower left side) and another near the radio (lower right side), then gently pop it out. Flip this panel over and look at the module/s located there....

    Since this is a feature not added before MY2000 in the US, the format may be different on the 1999 but my guess is that it is technologically similar. Other places to look would be along the driver side in the engine compartment before the headlamp wiring diverges, or up under the dash (with the kickplate removed) near the base of the steering column.

    Your low beams do function manually, though, correct? If a relay of some kind is not found to operate the DRL function, you could manually override the low beams and bypass the column switch by disconnecting the switched wire and splicing it into the pre-switched supply wire. The lights would continue to shut off with the car (as they do when the switch is in the "on" position), but the switch would no longer toggle the low beams on and off - it would simply control the "flash" and "on" features of the high beams and the intensity of the dash lights. Haynes manuals have decent electrical schematics that should allow you to walk through the process quite easily. I hooked up a set of driving lights using it without too much trouble - just have a volt meter handy to verify the accuracy of the diagrams! Good luck; let us know if you find this elusive gremlin.

    -Wes-
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    "... don't see any plastic modules..."
    You better see it or otherwise your model has no DRL installed. :)
  • outback3outback3 Member Posts: 3
    My wife's 4 cyl 5 spd 2003 Legacy Outback has very little low end power.
    It has become difficult to drive, as it likes to stall when engaging the clutch.
    Even once the clutch is engaged, there is very little power/acceleration until you hit a min of 3000 rpms. This is not the way the car was when it was purchased new. Slow, sluggish, unresponsive, and stalling out is not the way the car should drive.

    We took it to the dealer where the service rep took a condescending tone with my wife and told her there was no problem with the car, there were no diagnostic codes reporting a problem, and that she should use better gas. Having driven the car a great deal and having always used decent gas and we've recent started using premium, which of course didn't help.

    We're about to head back to the dealer for round two. Any suggestions?
  • bethdbethd Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Steve. I am almost afraid to say it, but the Suby has worked fine since the flush/change.
    beth
  • ezshift5ezshift5 Member Posts: 858
    ...but my money sez it's timing........

    best..........ez
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    what has changed lately? did you replace the air filter by chance?

    anything at all? any other symptoms like poor fuel economy or a rotten egg smell?

    if it doesn't idle well, my money would be on a leak in a vacuum line or in the air intake system.

    ~Colin
  • outback3outback3 Member Posts: 3
    this has actually been going on for a ridiculously long time (about a year/15k miles) with no noted change that would account for the poor performance. The car does idle well and only stalls when engaging the clutch in first gear (it takes a lot of care to get the car rolling in first). Fuel economy is down just a little (23-24/gal instead of 25-26/gal). Air filter has looked fine (I can't remember if the dealership replaced it when we were last in on this issue).

    Timing.... hmmmm.... I'd agree, except I'd expect that to be an easy diagnosis for the mechnic via the computer or just a timing light... but I'll mention it to the dealer tomorrow and report back.....

    Thanks.... more info to come, no doubt
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Try resetting the ECU, maybe it's just running too lean.

    -juice
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  • anatolyanatoly Member Posts: 9
    I'm afraid to ask it out, but I wonder if your wife used to drive manual before or is it the first one? I've seen such simptoms on the cars with ruined clutch. And in particular one girl who got a 5spd because it was "cool" and she never drove one before, so she busted the clutch in couple years.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't think that's it. Complaints of clutch chatter weren't rare so I don't think it's the driver.

    -juice
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Just replaced mine and got a Titanium from Advanced Auto Part's for 74.99
    840 amps and 600 cca's.

    Mike K
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Does anyone know the best way to keep a child seat from creating creases in leather upholstery? I've been using a "seat saver" but the leather still manages to pick up some wrinkles.

    Once the leather is wrinkled/creased, is there any hope of getting them out?

    Ken
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    My XT doesn't have leather, so I have no issues with the seat surfaces and our 2 carseats. Just an indentation that goes away after a day or two.

    On our MPV ES, the leather seats also show indentations from the child seats, but no wrinkles or creases - and that's after 3 full years of childseat usage. I don't use anything special under them - just a folded towel (100% cotton bath towl in a similar grey as the seats).

    Are you cleaning/conditioning/treating the seats with anything? Maybe you should apply some Lexol or other leather conditioner to help keep the surface soft.

    -Brian
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Ken,

    Point 1: Enjoy your car and your kids...
    Point 2: When the little ones are all grown up, get a new car!

    (Spoken by the father of the 'yogurt bomber'). ;)

    Steve

    (PS: See you for dinner in November? Paper and tutorial presentation both accepted)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'll save my fermentation for my beer, thanks.

    He's right, though, a wrinkle in the leather is the least of your concerns. Wait until the food fights start. :oO

    -juice

    PS We use a towel in my wife's car, but not mine
  • outback3outback3 Member Posts: 3
    My wife has been driving manual for a long time... no problem.
    Also, the reply presuming no clutch chatter is accurate. The clutch feels pretty good.
    It "feels" more like a problem with the throttle/power than with the clutch (although if the clutch was for some reason super "grabby", I guess it could feel the same).

    Took it to the dealer, drove with a mechanic.... and of course, the car did pretty well.
    I felt kind of silly. Time will tell.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    LOL, yogurt bombs!

    I do use Lexol conditioner on the seats as well as one of those rubberized seat protectors, but I'm finding the seats leave indentations. I have them cinched down very tight so it just goes right into the seat material.

    Oh well -- I guess the positive spin is that it's justification for a new car once the the kid(s) grow up!

    Ken
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