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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    it's a Technical Service Bulletin so yes. I don't believe it was a formal recall but when bringing your WRX into the dealer for service, they should identify any applicable TSBs and perform them.

    ~Colin
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    If you have the vent position selected to defrost, even 1 smidge that way past full "feet", the system will use the A/C compressor all the time to dehumidify. When the A/C compressor engages, so does the cooling fan regardless of ambient temp.

    Weird but normal.

    ~Colin
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Hi Colin. I just thought that if you were going to be in London for a while you might slip across to Ireland and see some of the sites there. I hav'nt been out to Alberta myself but the stampede is reputed to be a lot of fun.

    Cheers Pat.
  • kenm6kenm6 Member Posts: 14
    Colin, thanks. It was not at defrost mode. It was on vent.(The first selection of the control knob).
  • darcdarc Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Impreza. Has the OBD1 code reader. Does anyone know of a "DIY" code reader for under $200.00 that will work for certain with this vehicle? I see a lot of other cars listed but no Suby's on the OBD1 readers such as the ...ray.. models etc. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Darc
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Pat - my brother went there a couple of years ago, he said it was unbelieveable. The pics looked like a scene from Rob Roy.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Aren't they backward compatible, i.e. won't an OBDII scanner read OBDI codes?

    I just ordered one myself, Acron 9135 from Amazon for $105 with free shipping. I should get it next week, if you're in the MD/DC area and want to come by for a code read let me know.

    -juice
  • tattoodudetattoodude Member Posts: 3
    Your problem sounds similar to mine. I bought a WRX new in 2002. No problems for 1.5 years. Now the radiator cooling fans will come on when the engine is only warm nor will they shut off. This doesn't happen all the time, but is quite frequent in the winter months. In fact, the problem is temperature sensitive. The colder it gets, the more likely this event will occur. I infrequently run the compressor for defrost, and it is never on when the fans start. I have replaced the engine coolant temperature sensor and the ECM, Spent time talking to dealers, SOA, and researching on the internet. No satisfaction. Perhaps the collective minds of Town Hall can help. Good luck kenm6.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Colin,

    If you are interested in airplanes, take the underground to the RAF museum. (I think the stop is Hendon.)

    Before my trips, I stop at the local library and get the tour guide "ACCESS London" which I find to be one of the best guides. Alas, my current job rarely gets me to Europe. :(

    Jim
  • gmginsfogmginsfo Member Posts: 116
    Thanks, Steve! Noting showed up wrong in either of my first two dealer services, the ones where they diagnose it on the computer, etc., and I change oil every 3K, though I concede that's irrelevant to the fuel issue. But what about the advice in the OM that says never add additives? I'll grant immunity for the right answer! ;)
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I am getting close to the 30K tuneup on my 03 XS. I have read a number of posts & got the distinct impression that standard spark plugs are my prefered to platnuim. I don't get it. Since the plug change is a bit of a hassle, why not used the onces that last about 3 times longer. :confuse: Aren't the platnuims standard on the XTs.

    So what is the current best recommendation -- stick with SOA OE or is there a better choice?
  • pmrockapmrocka Member Posts: 3
    I own a 06 Forester with a heating problem that the dealer has no idea how to fix. The car only has 2800 miles. When the temp is set to 65 degrees in manual mode, the air flow is over 105 degrees. In auto when the inside of the car is warm, the fan speed does slow down but the air flow temp is still very hot. I have to turn the heat off and on so that my feet don't burn up. Just for grins I turned the temp to 85 degrees and took a temp reading, it was over 175 Degrees! Help Paul
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    The Subaru Climate Control Monster strikes again...
    Do a search on Google for "subaru forester climate control fix" (in quotes). Also check scoobymods.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    that sounds cool! I will definitely try to make time for it.

    ~Colin
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    With the original 2.5L DOHC Phase I engine, platinum plugs were used for that same reason -- convenience. It was difficult to change out the spark plugs in that particular model, so Subaru used ones that could go longer between changes.

    I don't have much knowledge about spark plugs, but I would imagine that the overall cost/performance of a standard copper plugs even with the hassle of changing may be less than going the platinum route.

    Ken
  • kenm6kenm6 Member Posts: 14
    Thanks, Tattoodude, the cooling fans did not kick in for last couple days due to cold weather. I hope its ok.
  • bundokbikerbundokbiker Member Posts: 3
    Rats! Tonight on my way home, my check engine light was blinking and the car almost kept stalling. I kept driving it for 8 more miles because I had to get home. Did I seriously eff something up? Should I tow my '01 Outback to the dealer?
  • jcpressjcpress Member Posts: 15
    :confuse: It seems my problems never end with this car. A while back I had mentioned that when the car is in Park, the engine runs smoothly, but when I put it into gear, the car shakes noticeably. Not knowing all that much about cars, but just enough to be dangerous, I though maybe it was a transmission issue (argh). Now I notice that when I put the car into gear from park, the car jerks noticeably and I think I hear a sort of clicking sound, which I also notice when I'm driving the car and it shifts into what I'm estimating is 3rd gear (though the shift seems smooth from 1st to 2nd). Now it's been cold here in NY and I have only been driving the car recently one mile in each direction to and from the train station. Does anyone think this is a transmission problem, serious or otherwise? I'm hoping it's nothing serious, because I'm trying to sell the car.

    Thanks once again,
    Joel
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's not too long, plus you made it home OK. I would call the dealer and ask for their advice, or call 800-SUBARU3.

    I ordered an OBDII scanner on-line but it has not arrived yet, otherwise I'd offer it for you to use (if you're near me).

    -juice
  • subarugurusubaruguru Member Posts: 18
    This sound strange but did you notice the problem after a tune up or other work on the car. I have seen the old spark plugs get dropped and stuck between the motor mount and engine cradle I have see it more than once, the same type of problem you have explained. you may have to reach or hand down there and feel around a bit take your time you might be surprised
  • pmrockapmrocka Member Posts: 3
    Its new !! Why should I have to pay to get it fixed? 3000 miles now! What's Up?
  • tattoodudetattoodude Member Posts: 3
    You're definately paying attention to your car kenm6. Keep an ear on it and see where it goes. I've gone almost 3 weeks between incidents, only to have it return. Hopefully your's will not. If it does, post a note. I'll be glad to help any way I can. Take care.
  • jcpressjcpress Member Posts: 15
    >

    Thanks. I'll poke around. The car's been in the shop so often that it's hard to remember when I first noticed the problem.
  • lamtrclamtrc Member Posts: 1
    Recently bought a 2006 WRX Wagon and loving it. However, I have noticed that the car is not as quiet as my 13 year old Toyota. It has a bit of vibration motion and tapping noise when it is in idle. Don't know if these are the inherented boxer engine/turbo car features or just my bad luck getting a buzzy car. Thanks for any feedback.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Juice,

    My understanding on the subject: While it was mandated that OBDII follow some standard protocols (CAN, ISO, etc.), OBDI was more of a free-for-all as long as the ability to capture and display was proven. Thus while some may indeed be compatible, most were proprietary and cannot be read out with an OBDII type scanner.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    No prosecution? OK, I'll confess....

    I love when the OM says things like that, yet the dealership shelves are full of BG and other brand additives to address every problem under the sun! I'd still recommend a treatment with Tecron, or other solvent deposit cleaner.

    Steve
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    A flashing CEL indicates a misfire or some other serious condition. This is not just an emissions condition, but something wrong that can do damage to the engine, cat con, etc. Treat it as such....

    Steve
  • jerry28jerry28 Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 legacy Outback 2.5 turbo, has a blown turbo, has anyone had a problem had a similar problem, that the low oil light did not come on? Subaru service has said it is designed not to come on until there is no oil left in the car, can that be correct?
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    note, it can't be "fixed".

    Supposedly "Hal" (as we call it) was improved in 2004 on but I don't hear of anyone totally satisfied with how it works.

    I keep Hal off and work the controls manually. But, I am definitely a Subaru OCD guy and the thought of AC and heat being blended at the same time hits me in a bad way.

    John
  • ehoffman1ehoffman1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a new subaru wrx sti that I traded a 02 mustang gt for. The main reason that I bought the vehicle was because I wanted a better vehicle in the snow. During the first snowfall I could barely get my car out of my driveway, and when I did it was the worst and scariest drive ever. Being upset that my rear wheel drive mustang was better in the snow I called subaru3 to ask what they thought. I was told to try snow tires, but in the same breathe I was told that it might not help. So I had my car looked at and there was nothing wrong with it. The service manager told me that snow tires wouldn't help and it is the car itself. So i questioned the dealer, Wilmington Subaru in Wilmington MA. and the sales manager became irate when I said that the salesman said the car would be excellent in the snow and that it actually wasn't. I told him that it wasn't fair being lied to. His reply to that was "my salesman can tell you whatever he wants, and it is up to you to do your homework." and after all that and 2 weeks later at 1,700 miles the car began to burn oil..what do i do?
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Congrats on the new purchase. Boxer engines do tend to make some more noise than other layouts simply because there are more moving parts associated with cams and valves. Also, we have a relatively large displacement 4-cylinder engine that uses no balance shafts so an occasional light shake at idle is not uncommon.

    Just one quick check -- check your oil level. I've found that my engine does get a tad more noisy when the oil level gets low.

    Ask your service department about the noise next time you're in for scheduled maintenance just to be sure.

    Ken
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Wow, sorry to hear about your problem. What do you mean by "blown"?

    The low oil light, from what I've heard, is not a very good indicator of when oil goes low. Why, I'm not sure, but nothing beats periodic checking of the dipstick.

    I hope your service department is able to repair your new vehicle.

    Ken
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Sorry to hear that you're not happy with your STi purchase. Did you know that your STi comes with summer tires?

    Ken
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    I can't believe snow tires wouldn't help.

    I hate to say it, but the sales manager is correct in that you need to do your homework here. The STI comes with summer tires that are useless in the snow and slick conditions, and I would expect anyone buying a car like the STI to know that.

    Bob
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,786
    If that thing has summer performance tires on it (which I would assume it would since it is a performance car!), winter performance tires will make all the difference in the world! If your AWD system is working properly, then drop the appropriate $ on some decent tires and go have fun.

    You'll have to ellaborate on the "burning oil" statement in order for anyone to help you there...
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    That's exactly what they are: summer performance tires. Subaru make this very clear in their marketing too. It's not a secret.

    They make mention of it in the Impreza brochure, and it's clearly noted in the owner's manual.

    BTW, the new Legacy Spec B also has summer performance tires too.

    Not only are these tires lousy in snow and slick conditions, but you can bet they will wear out much faster than all-sesaon tires too.

    If you play... you gotta pay... :)

    Bob
  • subarugurusubaruguru Member Posts: 18
    well I think every one is right in tell you have summer tires. ITS A KNOW FACT THESE TIRES ARE WORTHLESS IN SNOW
    ITS ALSO A FACT THE STI WILL SMOKE THAT PONY PILE IN THE SNOW, TURNS, SAND ,STRAIGHT LINE AND RESALE VALUE ! AWD RULES DONT GET MAD AT THE CAR BECAUSE OF ALL THE POWER THAT ESCAPES THE ROAD !
    MAYBE 87 SUBARU GL 4WD WOULD HAVE BEN A BETTER CHOICE
  • subarugurusubaruguru Member Posts: 18
    IF FLASHING THIS WOULD BE A PROBLEM THAT IS HAPPENING RIGHT NOW. A steady light means it is in memory and has happened in the past ( history code).
    as to driving and damage hard telling with the limited info.
    A good rule of thumb is if it runs bad it will more then likely cause damage to convertor
    if you chose to drive keep it short and have it check out soon as you can it would be a good idea
    good luck !
  • danwaynedanwayne Member Posts: 2
    our 2000 forester, canadian model, has a check engine light that won't quit. No flashing, ever, just stays on, even after 2-3 complete diagnostics and a couple thousand bucks in repairs at a dealer. I'd love to know why it is on, but no longer willing to pay to find the answer. Would just like to to turn it off but don't know how. Any advice out there (besides sue the dealer).
    :mad:
  • danwaynedanwayne Member Posts: 2
    :surprise: fyi, subaru foresters are so airtight that if you run the heater in the winter without circulation to the outside of the car water will condense in the mirror/reading light assembly top center of windshield and leak copiously, also will cause reading lights to short out. We have a 2000, canadian model, and no water dripping since we adjusted our heater/vent.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    My Evo came originally equipped with similar summer tires as an STi has, and it had a warning sticker on the driver's door, near the grab handle to get out, stating that the tires were SUMMER ONLY performance models and completely unsuitable for wintry driving conditions.

    Thus, my Evo now has 245/45-17 Dunlop WinterSport M3 on it. They work great.

    Btw, the summer-only tire warning was also in the owner's manual.

    ~Colin
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    If you end up replacing the OEM tires on the STi, I have put a set of Nokian WR's on my 06 Outback. They are great in the snow. They do have the "snowflake" symbol on them so they should perform well in the snow for you also. They also have a treadwear rating of 400 which means you "should" be able to run them year round if you choose to. I think I will still put my OEM tires back on in the spring just to save some wear on the Nokian's, but there are people that run them year round.

    Watch out though. The price is enough to choke a horse. But sometimes you have to pay to play.

    Karl
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I was told to try snow tires, but in the same breathe I was told that it might not help

    Keep in mind he was given bad advice. Horrible advice, actually. Whoever said that simply should not be in the automotive industry at all.

    Kinda scary, actually. I'd look for another dealer entirely.

    -juice
  • njswamplandsnjswamplands Member Posts: 1,760
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Here ya go...

    http://www.drive.subaru.com/Fall04_RoadTrips.htm

    Glenn Wallace and his STI taking part in the Alcan Rally a couple of years ago. I think he came in 2nd or 3rd overall.

    Do you think his STI was wearing the stock summer tires? Not likely. ;)

    Bob
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, I will echo the other posts -- see those cue-balls on each corner of the car? -- they are ultra high performance summer tires and should not be used below about 35F in any conditions, and you'd be absolutely nuts to drive them in snow or ice. The good news is that the tires are awesome in warm weather, and if you put winter tires on the STi, it will be awesome in winter weather too. If you are averse to having multiple sets of tires, then perhaps look for a high-performance all season tire you can run year round (though, it will offer sub-par winter performance and poorer handling than dedicated winter and summer tires, respectively).

    I have summer tires on my Honda S2K that are similar to what's on the STi. For everyone's safety, the car stays parked in the garage if temps are below 35F or if any winter weather is imminent.

    Craig
  • joeb24joeb24 Member Posts: 111
    Hello Karl - I am also thinking about replacing the OEM Bridgestone Potenzas on my 2006 Outback LL Bean with the Nokian WRs. Have you ( or anybody else) found the ride harsher with the Nokians? Also, did you have to replace the stems when you put the new tires on? I have a "tire pressue warning system" on my Outback with pressure sensitive stems. Dealer says the stems have to be replaced, at $80 each! I don't see why the same stems can't be used with the new tires?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I only had the OEM tires on for a week before I made the swap so take this for what it is worth...

    I actually like the ride better. It does not seem at all harsh to me. We just had about 10 inches of snow here in Minneapolis and I can say that I think the tires are great in the snow.

    I too have the TPMS. I put the WR's on the factory rims and kept my OEM tires for later use. This does not effect the sensors in any way since you can just keep the sensors and valve stems in the rim. I think I will put the Potenza's back on in the spring just to save some wear on the Nokian's. With a treadwear rating of 400, people say you can run the Nokian's year round. However, they are so expensive I am inclined to use them only as a winter tire, but we'll see.

    So in summary, I have the OEM rims with the OEM pressure sensors. I simply swapped tires. I was thinking about buying used OEM rims with pressure sensors off of one of many websites. The only issue is that I have been told that the car needs to re-learn the new sensors and only a Subaru dealer can do that for you. I don't know if this is true or not. Someone said their dealer did this for them for $25, but I can have the tires swapped for $40 at Discount Tire. It seems like a waste to buy rims to only save $15 per swap.

    Let me know if you have further questions.

    Karl
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If you're using the same rims, then the existing stems are all you need. Most people get new rims for their winter tires, which would require new stems if you want to keep TPMS active. Maybe that's what the dealer is assuming.

    Craig
  • liv4easeliv4ease Member Posts: 1
    Surprise, surprise! After my 80,000 mile warranty was up on my 2002 Subaru Outback (sedan), my check engine light came on. This is a bit lengthy, I apologize but I have to take you back to about 4 months ago: I started hearing a rattling sound coming from my front end only when lightly accelerating. Several mechanics told me it was the heat shield on the cat conv. and that it wasn't a real concern. I was given the option to have it "ripped off" by one mechanic and didn't feel comfortable with that so declined the offer. The next mechanic said he could tighten it, and so I allowed it but it still continued to rattle. Recently my CEL lit up and I initially thought it was the gas cap (it's happened before) & I followed the steps necessary to clear it up - which didn't work. When I took it in to get an oil change, they hooked it up to there computer and it came up with a cat conv issue. When I left the shop that day, I suddenly started hearing a whistling noise as I increased speed to pass another car. I was told that this would be a symptom of the cat getting clogged and got even more concerned. Today I got the cat replaced and a whole tune up. On my 1 hour drive home from the mechanic, I tested it out and I still hear the whistling (although not as loud) and 45 min into the drive, the CEL lit up again. It's an understatement to say that I am concerned about this. If somebody can shed a little light on this matter it would be GREATLY appreciated!
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