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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • subarugurusubaruguru Member Posts: 18
    check air cleaner box sometimes the bottom wont get latched (over looked by the installer)pull up on the air cleaner cover and see if the bottom moves as you pull up .
    This can cause whistling and other noises . I never heard a plugged convertor make noise like whistling. Also check air inlet boot for any damage .
  • pmrockapmrocka Member Posts: 3
    There is no fix? My manual still puts out very warm air. Does that mod work that is being offered on the internet?
  • dennis18dennis18 Member Posts: 1
    One cold morning my 2000 Subaru Forester 74k miles failed to heat up the cabin. My check engine had cycled on/off and was on at the time. I noticed the engine temp gage in red zone. I slowed down and temp went down. I decided to go direct to dealer thinking my eng. thermostat was stuck. I asked also for an oil change. The dealer PATRICK SUBARU of Shrewsbury, MA called me to say I needed new head gaskets $1775 and new oxygen sensor $285. I was shocked and said I could not afford it. He said he would talk to his boss and maybe I could get 10% off. I said I still could not afford it and hung up. He also strangely enough asked if I still wanted the oil change. While I was trying to contact my mechanic, he called again and offered 50% off, so I said ok. But I was now very suspicious. I went on line and discovered that blown head gaskets were a common problem for 2.5L SOHC engines, and if you had the dealer add a can of stop leak each time the coolant was serviced, the head gasket warrantee would be extended to 8yrs/100k mi. Next morning I confronted the dealer. He said the reason they agreed to split the cost was due to this common faulty gasket (he didn't say this up-front). I showed him the record of the same dealer adding the stop leak. He showed me the subaru papers that said the full coverage was for gaskets the leaked 'externally' and mine was leaking 'internally'. I went home,called Subaru of America and explained the story. When I said I did not think external vs internal should matter... the gaskets are BAD, he asked for my vehicle VIN number. He called the dealer immediatey, then called me back right away and said the dealer would replace the gaskets for free. Great! I picked up my car, the dealer made no apologies, and charged me for the sales tax on the gaskets, plus some other questionable charges, it seemed he was trying to charge me as much as possible. The car runs real good so far, but I do not trust the dealer. Anyone who is diagnosed with this problem should get their VIN and call Subaru of America and ask about the WWP-99 Service Campaign.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    not sure which mod you are refering to.

    If you check back in the Forester discussion, you can find some detail regarding the "fix" which essentially consisted of a micro-fan blowing air across the temp sensor of Hal, thereby increasing response time.

    But, the next year Subaru came out with a new improved unit (was it a 7 speed fan?)IIRC.

    John
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Very good advice that we're well aware of here, but I wonder how many people that are not savvy enough to search the web pay for the repair. It's too bad the dealer was trying to take advantage of the situation and rip you off. I think it was a great move on your part to 1) be suspicious and 2) call SOA. They are usually real fair with stuff like this.

    Craig
  • jklepjklep Member Posts: 2
    Help. I just replaced the battery on my 2000 Forester -first new battery --less than 70K miles on the car. When I hook up the new battery the running and dashboard light flash on and off non stop. No key, nothing turned on. It's totally bizarre. I'm quite sure I got tyhe correct replacement battery. It has 800 regular cranking amps and 640 cold cranking amps. Any ideas what's up with this? I'm stumped. :confuse: Greatest thanks.
  • jklepjklep Member Posts: 2
    guess I needed to reset the remote keyless entry. Thanks anyway. :blush:
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Just picke up my filter from the dealer and wow it is half the size of the old one . Can this be right
    02 outback 2.5l 4eat .

    Mike
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Looks too narrow to get a lot of snow off the windshield. You'd have to clear it first.

    Aren't we already supposed to do that :)

    I'd installed them recently.
    Very clean and dry wipe on the first pass in light and heavy rain.
    Handled sleet quite the same.
    Haven't gotten to use them during snow.

    -Dave
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    We are supposed to, yes. ;)

    A lot people don't. I actually do.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I just got my scanner, pretty neat. It reads and clears codes.

    My wife got two P0442 codes, aka "EVAP emission control system leak - small" - guess what? Loose gas cap. My wife had place the gas cap back on but not tightened it. Oops.

    Tightened it, reset the code, test drove it and it was fine.

    Forester got a P0302 code, "Cylinder 2 misfire". Still troubleshooting that one, I think it's the old spark plug wires (81k miles, original). The plugs were new at 60k, so I don't think that's it. The fuel filter was also swapped out at 60k.

    So I have a scanner if anyone in the DC/MD area wants to borrow it. It's very easy to use, the plug is right under the dash on the driver's side.

    It's very useful to know what the code is. As you can see my wife's was harmless. I paid $105 delivered, a dealer charges $84 just to scan one car. So mine already paid for itself.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Juice, I had a "mis-fire" code CEL very early on for my Forester. Dealer said it was a computer error and sent my unit back for reprogramming.

    Not sure what constitutes a genuine "mis-fire" condition. I have had the engine run very rough (no doubt with misfires) after hosing down the engine compartment. But no CELs resulted. I bet it depends on where the "mis-fire" originates--if it is at the spark plug or wire level, I doubt it would trigger. The sensor would need to be back at the distributor level, but may be triggered by a resistance range (indicating either a direct short, or an open circuit). Something in between that has a spark jump (eg a broken insulation on a wire that allows spark to jump) probably doesn't trigger a mis-fire.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Wonder what that would cost, given mine's not under warranty.

    I might change the wires anyway, see if it makes a difference. 81k miles is a lot, on my Miata I have to change them every 30k!

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    wires are cheap, I picked up a set from Liberty Subaru just to fill in my oil filter order.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't see them on the web site, did you call in your order?

    Follow-up question - do they take Subaru Bucks? I have $300 saved up. :)

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    If not, I know 1stsubaruparts takes Subaru Bucks. I have always been very pleased with their service. IIRC you provide a CC number so they can charge everything if you do not send the Subaru Bucks in like agreed upon.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for reminding me. It's been a couple of years but that's who took them last time. I didn't find plug wires, though.

    -juice
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    Their web page has become less than stellar. Just call the phone number listed. They are great over the phone and pull up the correct part numbers based on VIN. I think the guys name is Jason, but I am not certain.
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Just e-mail them, Juice.

    Russ is the guy that usually quotes me.

    For some reason, their e-mail quote has been considerably cheaper than the prices on their web page. About 20%, IIRC.

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    To both of you. I'm waiting for a call back from 800-SUBARU3 to troubleshoot the code and symptoms (shaky idle), so I'm waiting since I have to use the Subaru Bucks in $100 increments.

    -juice
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Yeah Mark can't say I am too happy with the size of that filter. Actually the last time I went to the dealer for a filter I gave them a hard time until they went and got me one of the origional size.

    The oem filter is made by Purolator but believe it or not nobody up here sells them.

    Cheers Pat.
  • oneduckstwooneduckstwo Member Posts: 34
    Ok, I'm guilty of cross posting here (from WRX Wagon forum) but I hope you'll let it slide!

    After driving our commuter beater for a couple weeks I got into our WRX and noticed a distinct shudder during some relatively hard braking on an exit ramp that I don't think I had ever noticed. I gave it a couple more before I got home and didn't notice it as much but at 52,000 miles I'm thinking perhaps it needs some new pads/rotors. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts or suggestions...maybe I don't need them yet? I've changed pads/rotors on other cars before but I'm not sure how difficult it is on the WRX (ABS an issue?) And does anyone have any suggestions for a equal or better setup (within reason) that I might purchase than the stock OEM brakes? Thanks.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, Liberty takes the bucks! I usually e-mail them at "parts at libertysubaru.com" and they are fairly quick to respond. I really like their prices and service, and shipping is normally just a day or two down to me in VA.

    Craig
  • darkwater71darkwater71 Member Posts: 8
    I have a 2002 Forester on which I'm trying to replace the left headlight bulb. I'm wondering how much force it should actually take to disconnect the electrical connection. Even when I'm getting movement of the connector, it seems to be solidly connected to the bulb assembly. Any help would be appreciated.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I've been buying Purolator oil filters at Pepboys for my last couple of oil changes. It's cheaper than both the dealer and the Subaru mailorder places.

    Jim
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    True, but Pep Boys doesn't take Subaru Bucks. I got a bunch using those via mail order, along with a tune-up kit for my wife's car. :)

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I think you may have to pinch the rubber grommet surround, if I understand you properly. Let me try to find a pic...

    This is the only one I have, it only shows new and old next to each other.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OK, that pic rings a bell.

    I think you have to turn it 1/4 turn before you pull it out. That's an H4 bulb, by the way, I think yours is the same.

    -juice
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    Just ordered my 60k service parts . I talked to Jason and he said that they don't often replace the plug wires. He stated that they usaully last 100k miles due to were they reside on the top of the engine. I was really suprised with the size of the filter I got it was small compared to the old one . It fit fine hope it is ok . I'am going to call them and see if i got the right one . Anybody out there notice the size of the new filter .

    Mike K
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Yeah, they have gotten smaller, but apparently the internal filter surface area has actually gone up a little. I have been using big and small filters interchangeably for a couple years now, as they phase in the new style and deplete stocks of the old style.

    Craig
  • demonscoobydemonscooby Member Posts: 4
    I've been looking and asking online for about 6 months about blown head gaskets on multiple sites, forums, etc. and on this site too, and this is the first i've heard of this. All i've heard is "that sucks" or "i've had to pay for mine to get done 3 times" or "just do an engine swap, or trade in your RS for a WRX." Thanks for the info though.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Ya but Jim, we don't have Pep boys in Canada unfortunately.

    Cheers Pat.
  • rangnerrangner Member Posts: 336
    Mike,

    I wasn't aware that the size had changed. It's also possible that they gave you the wrong filter. That happened to me recently.

    I have an 00 outback 2.5 and for some reason, the guy thought I had a wrx which would explain why they were so small~about half the size as you described. After I called him back and explained the situation, he apologized and sent me the correct filters--same size as old ones.

    You might want to check into that to be sure they're not impreza filters.

    Eric
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I think the filters might have changed all around. When I was looking up info on the new white filter for my F-XT (use to be a black filter), I recall seeing information that the filter changed for the other non turbos too. I found a pic of the various filters online.

    -Brian
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    I agree on the whistling. As for the CEL, if an OBDII read comes up with the P0420 code, it is probably being caused by a fault in the rear O2 sensor - either the sensor itself or the wiring to it corroded and altering the voltage readings. The converter itself is obviously ruled out at this point unless you have bad emissions that are fouling it VERY quickly!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,762
    Great to hear it, juice! Mine was $145 (much of that probably shipping to AK... darn 3rd class citizen tax), but it too has paid for itself 5 or more times over. An easy $85 for the dealer though...... :sick:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • tigrawrxtigrawrx Member Posts: 2
    Hey need help,

    I just bought my '06 WRX over the weekend. The car was fine for about a 100 miles but then the car started to make a light rattling noise when the RPMs are at 2000-3500. I am sure that the noise wasn't there when I got the car. I took it in to the dealer and the mechanic verified that the noise is there but could not figure out what it was. He advised me to let the car 'break in'. Any ideas?

    It seems that the noise happens when in gears 2-5. Sounds like a little rattle. RPMS 2000 to 3500. Only when accelerating. Was not there for the first 100 miles. HELP.

    -newSubaruOwner
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Although it could be a hundred things, my first guess would be exhaust heat shields. Initially tight, they loosen up a bit. They may quiet down once a little rust sets in, so maybe give it a week or two if is remains light?

    Steve
  • mrk610mrk610 Member Posts: 378
    I got my filter and other 60k parts from Libery Sub . I called jason who i order with and he said that they are the new filters. It is smaller but has more element for filtering the oil.

    Mike K in cold but no snow South Jersey
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    No tangible prizes, just the satisfaction of bashing those that deserve it. Yes, I am feeling in a lousy mood and maybe not being very charitable, but here goes....

    I took my Outback in late last week for some routine work. Stuff I should be doing myself, but as I am stuck at work (like tonight....), sometimes you just have to pay someone else. While there, I asked them to look at my front brakes. Getting a very uneven wear pattern (inside pad on both sides). Original pads, and there is a TSB on this. Problem is not mileage, but months, so I expected to get turned down for replacements, but figured that I would try. No problem with that...

    Next day I am swapping regular and winter tires. Left disk looks normal. Right disk - the twin piston imprint is visible on the outside of the caliper. Looks like they swapped inside and outside pad.

    Have to drive by them while on an errand, so stop in. "Oh, it is OK to swap them" they respond.

    But what about the wear pattern? If the pad is wearing unevenly, so might the rotor? If you switch them, they will no longer fit flush. Even worn, they match up better if replaced in their original position. That is why you turn rotors when you replace pads!

    So what, they reply... Eventually you will have to get brake service, and you can true everything up then....

    Red faced, I left....

    Steve
  • tigrawrxtigrawrx Member Posts: 2
    I just went out driving to feel it out a little more. The noise only happens when I am accelerating in the 2000-3500 RPM range. If I keep the car steady at any RPM in that range(2000-3500) there is no rattle. Could it have something to do with the Turbo spinning up?

    Advanced Thanks.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    I've been spending all my Subaru bucks on repairs! :mad:

    Not maintenance but REPAIRS! :(

    Jim
  • soco2soco2 Member Posts: 9
    My daughter is going to drive her 2000 Forester to the Sierras next February. I would appreciate your tire chain recommendations. Which work best with the Forester and are not difficult to install? Thanks for your help.
  • vali48vali48 Member Posts: 2
    Had Michelin PA1 on MY03 F2.0 XT. Bought for MY05 F2.5XT Nokian WR. Not satisfied at all on snowy roads. Came back this winter on Michelin PA2. Just tested them last weekend (on heavy snow) and indeed are excellent.
  • tonyp2tonyp2 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all. Was wondering if I could get any recommendations on the following.

    I have a '98 Outback Ltd. Wagon (approx. 100K miles). The car seems to idle/shake very loudly when the car is in Drive and I have my foot on the brake at a complete stop (like at a red light). Occasionally the car will even behave like it is going to stall out but never does, just jumps a little like it is about to. I also noticed that when I apply the brake the interior and headlights dim a little like it cannot supply enough power to all lights at the same brightness.

    I am thinking it is some type of electrical problem. I had the alternator replaced last spring.

    Any ideas/recommendations?

    Best Regards,

    TonyP
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry to hear that, Jim.

    We used $100 for supplies/accessories, then $200 in the body shop (and got cash from insurance, ka-ching!).

    We have another $300 saved up, just in case.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You need low-profile chains, like Z-chains. Do a Google search and you'll find 'em at the major tire stores.

    -juice
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    When was your last tune-up? Also, if you still have the original battery, it's time for a new one.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Your engine needs to be idling at a minimum speed of 650rpm or so for the alternator to be providing any decent level of output to support a current draw. If it is idling very low, shaking and feeling like it is going to stall as you describe, then you are really relying on the battery to provide all the power needs of the car. That is contributing to the lights dimming when you sit at idle with the brake applied - the system is current starved. While a battery with better reserve capacity might minimize this, the real problem is with the shaky low idle.

    Things to look at include cylinder compression, condition of plugs and wires, integrity of the air box & intake (vacuum leaks) & airflow meter, possibly even the cam or crank sensors. You will probably need professional help to sort out the latter items.

    Steve
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I think the oil filters have changed for the turbo models a few times over the last year. They used to be the black Toyo Roki filters made in Japan. Later, the changed to a white Purolator OE brand, but then had some seal issues. Those were recalled and there's a different Purolator (also white) filter out now.

    I think dealer inventories should be cleared of the bad batch of filters now, but it wouldn't hurt to ask and double check.

    Ken
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