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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's cool that there is an access panel now. I had to cut mine. ;-)

    -juice
  • ken_from_njken_from_nj Member Posts: 105
    yeah - gives good access to both the drain plug screw & the filter. my only problem was my crappy (from apartment days) rachet set didn't have a big enough rachet so while the car was up on the ramps - had to take the other vehicle out to the local hardware store & grab some bigger rachets - think it took a 17mm or 18mm - my old set only went to 16mm. oh well - at least now i have it for the future ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, I think it's 17mm. Mine goes to 19mm, but I went out and bought 20, 22, and 24. I think they skip the 21 and 23 mm sizes.

    I've used the 20 and 22 for wheel lugs on my cars, it's great with the torque wrench. And you just mentioned another case where I think a 2nd or even 3rd car is key.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The access panel sounds nice. Wonder if you could fit one from a 2003 onto a 1998.

    Ken
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    After putting a few hundred miles on the new wheels / winter tires, I pulled out the torque wrench to check them (as recommended by both Subaru and Tire Rack). I originally did them to 72lb-ft with my 'click' wrench.

    In retrospect, I wish I had pulled out the 'beam' wrench to check what they were actually at before retightening them. I doubt they were much over 30-40. Took a good 1/4 turn to get them back to 72.

    Steve
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Wow Steve, good thing you checked the torque. Having lost a wheel in a past life, I know it's not fun.

    OTOH, I've since learned that as long as you do NOT use anti-seize or anything on the lug nuts, they stay pretty tight.

    Jim
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    Thank god you checked those lugs Steve. Looks like you might get to test those tires on ice Thursday AM. I plan on installing the K&N filter and maybe plugs and fluid changes over the holiday. I will probably retorque my tires also.

    Greg
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Just rotated mine so I'm fine for a while. I'll check again in spring when I take them off for a fresh coat of wax.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    a slight pulsing of the brakes again. Remember, the original rotors were warped brand new. The replacement ones warped and were cut a few months ago. Now a slight pulsing is there, although it is not getting worse. This is the reason I am going to check the torque. Also, finding a little tapping/piston slap/whatever from the right side when the car is cold for about 1-2 minutes in the AM. Thing is the car sits in a heated (50F)garage all night with Mobil 1 in the crankcase.

    Greg
  • brightnessbrightness Member Posts: 40
    I'm shopping between the two model years. Is the '97 2.5L more reliable than the '96 model year? What difference is there besides the output spec and 87oct vs. 89oct fuel requirement. BTW, what acount for the diffrences? thanks.
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Well, got my car back from 60K service yesterday. Dealer said everything looks good. One thing I did notice was that the car was doing less piston slapping before it's warm. I'll do more observations and let you know but I was quite surprised.
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    Also, I forgot to mention this before here but for those who have power antennas and it's sticking sometimes I found a little recipe. Long time ago I bought Prolong Engine Treatment pack which had Prolong Super Lubricant can. The last time when my antenna wouldn't go down all the way I figured I'd give it a shot and lube the antenna. Since then it never given me a problem. I clean it every 2 weeks or so, so that dirt isn't accumulated.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    dude, regarding the slapping did you happen to check your oil level before servicing the car?

    being a little low will result in excessive valvetrain noise.

    -Colin
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    The slapping noise was consistent since I bought the car and I'd change the oil regularly and the last time I checked 3 weeks ago or so it wasn't low.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd ask what weight of oil they used, sounds like it worked nicely. Of course they did other stuff that might have made the difference.

    -juice
  • skiweeskiwee Member Posts: 28
    lapel pin down the center front windshield defroster on my Baja. Any ideas on how to retrieve it without taking the dash apart?
    Bet this is the first time anyone ever asked this question. Thanks.
    Mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Not sure, Luk, haven't had to do that yet. I'd say all of them, though. If anything, on the boxer the oil would be more likely to leak from a lower seal, where the oil would sit when the engine is off.

    I'd get the '97 for the 10 extra horses and the fuel savings. Reliability is very likely similar.

    I forget the exact changes, but I think they simplified the valvetrain and the intake.

    -juice
  • babaorileybabaoriley Member Posts: 74
    nygreg,

    I had brake pulsing, usually slowing from high speeds. Doing my 30K service, I noticed my rotors had some grooving, but were not warped. The pads had plenty of life left and didn't have grooves. I block sanded the rotors, not to remove the grooves, but to get a cleaner surface. I then replaced the brake fluid, bleeding lots and lots of fluid through each wheel cylinder. The pulsing went away after all this. It is now about 4K past and the pulsing is starting to become noticable again.

    I think a combination of soft rotors and brake fluid contamination are the culprit on my car. Yours could be similar.

    -Brett
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    I have not seen any Baja in the city yet. I will know it is you, Mike. If there is WRX driving next to you closely, it may be me. lol

    -Luk
  • skiweeskiwee Member Posts: 28
    I keep the Baja in Sherman, Ct (near New Milford)
    You can't miss it. It's the bright yellow one. I've only seen one so far when I drove up to Maine. Love it except clutch is grabby in first-takes some getting used to. Have you found that quirk with your WRX?
    Mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's a Subaru trait. That clutch is sending power to all four wheels every time.

    -juice
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    It runs great after warming up. How is the back seat in Baja? Can it be adjust or is is fixed? I tried the WRX Wagon, and it is not comfortable in the back.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Baja has less rear seat space than the Outback. It's fixed, though the whole thing folds to use the pass-through.

    So it's passable, but not roomy. I was fine, 6' about 220 lbs. No room to spare, though. For kids it is more than enough.

    I'd still consider one with a more powerful engine and a clever cover of some kind.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    I will investigate over the holidays - I have 2 weeks off. This is the only thing about this car that I can complain about. I absolutely love driving it. I might even bring it to the dealer for brake flush and have them investigate. They said the work was good for a year even if I pass 36K.

    Greg
  • texan5texan5 Member Posts: 23
    This is an interesting tidbit that I've come across on another board. The poster there mentioned that Subaru had decided to use the MAP (Manifold air pressure) sensors in fuel injection systems that it uses over the more widespread MAF (mass air flow) meters. Apparantly MAPs trade fuel efficiency (worse) for reliability (better). Any subaru tech out there that might care to comment?

    texan5
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I'd also go with the '97 between the two. I think the '97 was able to lower octane requirements via knock sensor modifications, IIRC.

    Ken
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Oil level certainly does affect valvetrain noise, especially with the DOHC engine. I usually can tell when I'm getting a little low just from the sound.

    Oil weight also plays a role. I find 10W30 to be quieter, not suprisingly.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Avoid the MAF. I think those were in the last year ('99) 2.5l Phase I engines. Touch the intake and they blow up, and cost $300-400 to replace. Unless you keep it bone-stock, I'd stay away from the '99 engine.

    A local guy put a S-AFC on his RS, and his MAF blew up. Replaced it and sold the S-AFC quick, tough and expensive lesson.

    The '98 is fine because the intake is a little different (not sure exactly how), and the 2000 Phase II got the more reliable MAP.

    If you keep it stock, it's OK, and Subaru covers it under warranty, so don't worry.

    -juice
  • lansharklanshark Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    Anyone having any trouble with WRX starting after spending day outside with temps in single digits. Car did not sound like the battery was low and eventually flooding was an issue.

    Rereading the owner's manual suggests that we did not follow the procedure exactly.

    Comments???

    Thanks

    LANshark
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I found the OE battery for my Forester, with something like 260 CCAs, was not very powerful in a deep chill. I now have a 535 CCA battery and it lights right up.

    -juice
  • alf2002alf2002 Member Posts: 2
    Hi
    I hope this is the right place to post.
    2 days ago my CEL came on. I'm in new england, and it's been mighty cold. I checked the gas cap (I had been to a full service gas stn), and when I turned it, it wasn't on completely tight, but I did hear the vapor/gas hiss when I opened it, which made me think it wasn't just the gas cap.
    I took it to my mechanic, and they read the code PO303, CYL 3 MISFIRE. But when they checked the engine, they couldn't detect any misfiring. So they reset the light, and I came to get it. Went to start it up, the light came on again, w/ same message.

    My understanding is that this isn't a cat converter or 02sensor like I've read about or it would return a diff. code, and is likely spark plug or wires which I had replaced at 60,000. So they're covered, I'd "just" have to pay for labor.

    Does anyone have any other suggestions or advice?

    Also, I've got the infamous noisy valve-lifters that are annoying and no one's been able to fix, if anyone has any experience w/ that as well.
    Thanks
    ALF2002
  • rlabdikrlabdik Member Posts: 6
    I HAVE A 99 FORESTER THAT HAS A HISSING NOISE COMING THROUGH THE PASSENGER SIDE VIEW MIRROR. IF I PUT DUCT TAPE AROUND THE MIRROR I CAN ELIMINATE IT, BUT I DON'T KNOW WHERE IT IS PENETRATING---ANYBODY OUT THERE WITH THE SAME PROBLEM?? Solution, if any??
  • dudedude Member Posts: 123
    I doubt they'd put 10W30, since in winter months they usually use 5W30, especially here in Colorado
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    10w30 was definitely quieter than 5w30 in my '99 SOHC 2.5L.

    both were synthetics.

    -Colin
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Jim,

    Not putting anti-sieze on the lug nuts to avoid loosening suggests it may not have been done correctly. It is absolutely key to put anti-sieze on the threads only. Do NOT put it on the acorn nut's taper where it fits into the rim holes. The place where the nuts and rim go together is where the friction to hold the nuts takes place. The threads generate lateral force to pull the rim face tightly to the hub and have very little surface area for generating the holding friction of the nut. It's all about having clean mating surfaces between the nut and wheel - even if it's an alloy with the flat faces or flat washers.

    Properly lubed threads mean greater holding friction with the nuts. What you experienced is the normal slight loosening of wheels after a bit of driving. That's why virtually any guide to putting wheels on instructs you to recheck them.

    Brett - brake fluid will not impact brake pulsing at all. The fluid simply presses the pistons against the pads and has no other movement. It's still a good idea to flush and change, of course!!

    IdahoDoug
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    In cases where I have seen a manufacture state any instructions at all concerning torque and conditions, the specific wording has been "clean, dry threads". I have never run into any mention of anti-seize, and as you stated Doug, it creates a tremendous risk if improperly applied. I am not sure it is a wise idea unless habitual rusting is a problem.

    I was not at all surprised that the lugs loosened on new alloy wheels, only to the extent that it happened. All metals are subject to 'elastic deformation'. Temperature excursions and further mechanical stress can lead to creep, strain relief, etc. - all forms of permanent, or 'plastic deformation'. The lugs probably didn't turn loose - the mating surface forces changed. The lugs are chromed steel, the wheel a composite alloy of aluminum and whatever (probably some silicon, and other trace stuff). The first application of compression always results in the most change. Some alloys and casting techniques aggrevate the problem.

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    alf: that code is simply saying there was a single misfire in that cylinder. Could be from something simple like condensation in the gas. Try a bottle of DryGas, giving it time to cycle throught the fuel system. It abosorbs any water in the fuel lines.

    Or you could try to reset the ECU. But if the mechanic reset the code and it tripped again, that probably won't help.

    For that mirror, try folding the mirror in, then put a small, inconspicuous piece of duct tape in the gap where it folds. That might stop the hissing.

    It's odd but a golf ball is dimpled for a similar reason, it actually travels farther with dimples than a smooth one would. Funny, no? You do not want it too smooth.

    -juice
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Turn the key to "ON" position for 2, 3 sec. before starting up. I had the same problem before.
  • lakepoplakepop Member Posts: 221
    Well I got schooled on this one!....Did a review of a number of sites concerning mounting wheels. I was surprised to see thet ALL of them stated NOT to use any lubricant on the lug nuts/studs.
    So Steve is right on with his comment. All the sites I visited also stated the stud threads should be clean and dry!
    I also noted that a few sites recommended a coating of antiseize on the hub/mounting surface but I digress...
    OK Steve..........good job!
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    I think it's wise to recommend clean dry threads as to do otherwise invites the legal liability of people putting lube where it can loosen. Torque settings for automotive fasteners assume a light coating of oil always present on new fasteners to prevent corrosion during shipping and storage. This is identified in an SAE treatise on the topic somewhere - I'll try to find it.

    I use antisieze on my wheel lugs because I live in a northern climate where we change to studs in the winter each year. The added wear of this twice yearly change (plus anything that would normally require wheel removal) makes pricey stud replacements more common here than other areas. The antisieze is an excellent insurance against the galling and thread wear if used properly.

    Excellent comments on material deformation, Steve. Look closely and you'll see that you have steel inserts in your alloy wheels so that the only contact is steel to steel with the fasteners. And a good reminder for us all to recheck wheel nuts after a change - thanks!

    IdahoDoug
  • rlabdikrlabdik Member Posts: 6
    My 1999 Forester sounds like a washing machine during cold weather starts---I am told this is normal. I hate it because it sounds like a previous Rabbit deisel I once owned.

    I am considering a 2003 or a 2004--My dealer tells me that they have eliminated this problem--Should I believe him??
  • axp696axp696 Member Posts: 90
    I'd ask what exactly was the problem, and see whether the parts involved are warranteed and if a deal can be struck on fixing it. Your car is only 3 years old, I think upgrading to a new model because something is obviously broken on yours is a bit premature.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Doug, mixed bag on this one. While my Honda Odyssey has them, the OB does not. I don't believe that the wheels I bought (house brand from Tire Rack made by FOMB in Italy - makers of Mille Miglia, etc.) have them either. Thus the steel nuts are indeed compressing aluminum alloy. All the more reason to check them periodically.

    David/John (?) Lakepop: Thanks for your comments! Actually the use of antisieze on the hub mounting surface was new news to me also. Both my new Honda and Subi had it - the first time I had seen it on any of my new cars.

    Steve
  • knowlenknowlen Member Posts: 1
    I have an automatic 2002 2.5RS with 29000 miles on it. At 22,000 miles I had to replace the back tires because of extreme wear on the inside edge. The dealer said it was alignment and that I hadn't rotated them as often as I should of (only once in that time period). I had the dealer do the 4 wheel alignment. It is now only 7000 miles later and I have the exact same wear problem. 7000 miles is way too quick as I had just had it aligned and I don't drive the car hard. Has anyone else seen wear like this on just the inside of the rear tires?

    Other problems:

    My check engine light just came on, gas tank cover was tight.

    Cold start hesitation - when first starting off the car hesitates and then accelerates quicker than I expect - dealer said Subaru is aware of the problem but doesn't have a fix yet.

    Driver's side window got stuck half way up. Dealer fixed under warranty.

    Rubber window seals slip out of place allowing leaks- so far able to get back into place myself.

    I really like the car, but am not used to having as many problems in a new car.

    Taking car to dealer 12/16/03 for CEL and to look at tire wear. If anyone has had problems with tire wear or alignment please email me at sknowlen@cianbro.com. Thanks!
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Perhaps you might want to get a dealer to take a closer look at it or even take it to another one for a different opinion. While piston slap is not unheard of, I think it's rare with the Phase II engine that's found in your 1999 model. It's also the same engine in the 2003 model so I don't think trading-in is going to really make a difference.

    Boxer engines are a little noisy on cold startups, but if the sound goes away after 5 minutes or so, it shouldn't be a problem.

    Ken
  • joybelljoybell Member Posts: 275
    My family has owned Subarus for years. I've had a Chaser and a Loyale Wagon, Mom still has an Impreza Wagon. I would love a new Subie but can't afford the price anymore, so I went shopping for a Forester (the only Subaru wagon type made in Japan). I found one, a 1998 model, and the salesman told me that they are replacing the engine after 140,000km and that this sometimes happens on Subies from the years 1997 to 1999!!! We have had very reliable Subies, so what happened? Did they have a Domestic (non Japan made) engine in there?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Didn't some of the first year Phase II engines get a Phase I block, something like that? You probably have one of those.

    IMO a trade-in would resolve the problem either way, because only a small percentage of vehicles were affected.

    knowlen: it's probably still the alignment. Go to a specialty shop. Usually they have a range it has to fall within, instead ask them to get it exactly right, even show them your tires.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's the Phase I engine. A small percentage had piston slap, and a few also had front main seal issues (oil could leak). We're talking a few, most didn't of course. I have a '98 and it's only even been to the dealer once in almost 5 years.

    All Forester were made in Gunma, Japan, including the engine. It's been the most reliable Subaru in the lineup.

    I doubt they are replacing the actual engine. They might be changing the seals and/or gaskets, but that's perfectly normal for the mileage (87,500). In fact, while they are at it they should probably go ahead and do the timing belt, all other accessory belts, and the hoses too.

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    actually the front main seal is not rare and it is not limited to the 97-99 DOHC 2.5L.

    the front main seal will go on nearly all EJ series engines produced to date at some point. many before 100k miles, some as early as 30k.

    it's a known weakness. not a critical concern because it's easy to replace, so long as you don't let it go or consistently run the engine low on oil.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Is it more common on the RS, vs. the Forester? I just haven't heard of many cases in the Forester threads. Perhaps RS owners push their engines much harder?

    -juice
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