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Comments
-juice
I've used the 20 and 22 for wheel lugs on my cars, it's great with the torque wrench. And you just mentioned another case where I think a 2nd or even 3rd car is key.
-juice
Ken
In retrospect, I wish I had pulled out the 'beam' wrench to check what they were actually at before retightening them. I doubt they were much over 30-40. Took a good 1/4 turn to get them back to 72.
Steve
OTOH, I've since learned that as long as you do NOT use anti-seize or anything on the lug nuts, they stay pretty tight.
Jim
Greg
-juice
Greg
being a little low will result in excessive valvetrain noise.
-Colin
-juice
Bet this is the first time anyone ever asked this question. Thanks.
Mike
I'd get the '97 for the 10 extra horses and the fuel savings. Reliability is very likely similar.
I forget the exact changes, but I think they simplified the valvetrain and the intake.
-juice
I had brake pulsing, usually slowing from high speeds. Doing my 30K service, I noticed my rotors had some grooving, but were not warped. The pads had plenty of life left and didn't have grooves. I block sanded the rotors, not to remove the grooves, but to get a cleaner surface. I then replaced the brake fluid, bleeding lots and lots of fluid through each wheel cylinder. The pulsing went away after all this. It is now about 4K past and the pulsing is starting to become noticable again.
I think a combination of soft rotors and brake fluid contamination are the culprit on my car. Yours could be similar.
-Brett
-Luk
You can't miss it. It's the bright yellow one. I've only seen one so far when I drove up to Maine. Love it except clutch is grabby in first-takes some getting used to. Have you found that quirk with your WRX?
Mike
-juice
So it's passable, but not roomy. I was fine, 6' about 220 lbs. No room to spare, though. For kids it is more than enough.
I'd still consider one with a more powerful engine and a clever cover of some kind.
-juice
Greg
texan5
Ken
Oil weight also plays a role. I find 10W30 to be quieter, not suprisingly.
Ken
A local guy put a S-AFC on his RS, and his MAF blew up. Replaced it and sold the S-AFC quick, tough and expensive lesson.
The '98 is fine because the intake is a little different (not sure exactly how), and the 2000 Phase II got the more reliable MAP.
If you keep it stock, it's OK, and Subaru covers it under warranty, so don't worry.
-juice
Anyone having any trouble with WRX starting after spending day outside with temps in single digits. Car did not sound like the battery was low and eventually flooding was an issue.
Rereading the owner's manual suggests that we did not follow the procedure exactly.
Comments???
Thanks
LANshark
-juice
I hope this is the right place to post.
2 days ago my CEL came on. I'm in new england, and it's been mighty cold. I checked the gas cap (I had been to a full service gas stn), and when I turned it, it wasn't on completely tight, but I did hear the vapor/gas hiss when I opened it, which made me think it wasn't just the gas cap.
I took it to my mechanic, and they read the code PO303, CYL 3 MISFIRE. But when they checked the engine, they couldn't detect any misfiring. So they reset the light, and I came to get it. Went to start it up, the light came on again, w/ same message.
My understanding is that this isn't a cat converter or 02sensor like I've read about or it would return a diff. code, and is likely spark plug or wires which I had replaced at 60,000. So they're covered, I'd "just" have to pay for labor.
Does anyone have any other suggestions or advice?
Also, I've got the infamous noisy valve-lifters that are annoying and no one's been able to fix, if anyone has any experience w/ that as well.
Thanks
ALF2002
both were synthetics.
-Colin
Not putting anti-sieze on the lug nuts to avoid loosening suggests it may not have been done correctly. It is absolutely key to put anti-sieze on the threads only. Do NOT put it on the acorn nut's taper where it fits into the rim holes. The place where the nuts and rim go together is where the friction to hold the nuts takes place. The threads generate lateral force to pull the rim face tightly to the hub and have very little surface area for generating the holding friction of the nut. It's all about having clean mating surfaces between the nut and wheel - even if it's an alloy with the flat faces or flat washers.
Properly lubed threads mean greater holding friction with the nuts. What you experienced is the normal slight loosening of wheels after a bit of driving. That's why virtually any guide to putting wheels on instructs you to recheck them.
Brett - brake fluid will not impact brake pulsing at all. The fluid simply presses the pistons against the pads and has no other movement. It's still a good idea to flush and change, of course!!
IdahoDoug
I was not at all surprised that the lugs loosened on new alloy wheels, only to the extent that it happened. All metals are subject to 'elastic deformation'. Temperature excursions and further mechanical stress can lead to creep, strain relief, etc. - all forms of permanent, or 'plastic deformation'. The lugs probably didn't turn loose - the mating surface forces changed. The lugs are chromed steel, the wheel a composite alloy of aluminum and whatever (probably some silicon, and other trace stuff). The first application of compression always results in the most change. Some alloys and casting techniques aggrevate the problem.
Steve
Or you could try to reset the ECU. But if the mechanic reset the code and it tripped again, that probably won't help.
For that mirror, try folding the mirror in, then put a small, inconspicuous piece of duct tape in the gap where it folds. That might stop the hissing.
It's odd but a golf ball is dimpled for a similar reason, it actually travels farther with dimples than a smooth one would. Funny, no? You do not want it too smooth.
-juice
So Steve is right on with his comment. All the sites I visited also stated the stud threads should be clean and dry!
I also noted that a few sites recommended a coating of antiseize on the hub/mounting surface but I digress...
OK Steve..........good job!
I use antisieze on my wheel lugs because I live in a northern climate where we change to studs in the winter each year. The added wear of this twice yearly change (plus anything that would normally require wheel removal) makes pricey stud replacements more common here than other areas. The antisieze is an excellent insurance against the galling and thread wear if used properly.
Excellent comments on material deformation, Steve. Look closely and you'll see that you have steel inserts in your alloy wheels so that the only contact is steel to steel with the fasteners. And a good reminder for us all to recheck wheel nuts after a change - thanks!
IdahoDoug
I am considering a 2003 or a 2004--My dealer tells me that they have eliminated this problem--Should I believe him??
David/John (?) Lakepop: Thanks for your comments! Actually the use of antisieze on the hub mounting surface was new news to me also. Both my new Honda and Subi had it - the first time I had seen it on any of my new cars.
Steve
Other problems:
My check engine light just came on, gas tank cover was tight.
Cold start hesitation - when first starting off the car hesitates and then accelerates quicker than I expect - dealer said Subaru is aware of the problem but doesn't have a fix yet.
Driver's side window got stuck half way up. Dealer fixed under warranty.
Rubber window seals slip out of place allowing leaks- so far able to get back into place myself.
I really like the car, but am not used to having as many problems in a new car.
Taking car to dealer 12/16/03 for CEL and to look at tire wear. If anyone has had problems with tire wear or alignment please email me at sknowlen@cianbro.com. Thanks!
Boxer engines are a little noisy on cold startups, but if the sound goes away after 5 minutes or so, it shouldn't be a problem.
Ken
IMO a trade-in would resolve the problem either way, because only a small percentage of vehicles were affected.
knowlen: it's probably still the alignment. Go to a specialty shop. Usually they have a range it has to fall within, instead ask them to get it exactly right, even show them your tires.
-juice
All Forester were made in Gunma, Japan, including the engine. It's been the most reliable Subaru in the lineup.
I doubt they are replacing the actual engine. They might be changing the seals and/or gaskets, but that's perfectly normal for the mileage (87,500). In fact, while they are at it they should probably go ahead and do the timing belt, all other accessory belts, and the hoses too.
-juice
the front main seal will go on nearly all EJ series engines produced to date at some point. many before 100k miles, some as early as 30k.
it's a known weakness. not a critical concern because it's easy to replace, so long as you don't let it go or consistently run the engine low on oil.
-Colin
-juice