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Comments
a few 1.8L guys were grumbling about it and a few Subaru dealership techs posted in one of the threads that they replace front main seals all the time.
-Colin
Actually, the Impreza wagon is also manufactured in Gunma as well.
Ken
Greg
I personally use only alignment speciality shops. While any shop can do alignments, I've found that only a few can do them right.
Ken
Steve
That wouldn't explain his problem, then.
-juice
How can one get access to bulletins that relate to specific problems and remedies?
Is there a particular subaru web?
Steve
Take a thorough test drive, here are things to look for:
* rear wheel bearings - they should be quiet and ride smoothly
* front main seals and head gaskets - look for any evidence of oil leaks
* clutch - should be smooth
* engine - will have a characteristic growl, but should run smoothly when warm
The good news is that problems tend to stand out like a sore thumb, so you'll likely find them if there are any. Check the oil level and condition. Drive with the radio off, open the windows, and listen for any strange driveline noises. If it's quiet, you should be in good shape.
You'll probably find them for $12k and up or so. That's what I've seen.
-juice
Ken
So if you keep it stock, go for it. But if you tinker with your cars, modify the intake, avoid the '99 in particular. '98s and 2000 and later are fine for modding.
-juice
Greg
-juice
Ken
-Dennis
Greg
It wouldn't hurt to try. Do you use synthetic already? The better flow characteristics of synthetic will probably work better with a 10-weight oil in the winter.
I've found 10W30 does reduce the valve noise (the light chitter-chatter) at cold startup.
Ken
Greg
-Dennis
How are ya? Haven't heard from you in a while.
-juice
You can also drool over the Blitzen catalogs Ken sent me.
Hmm, the OE hitch was plug-and-play, just 7 overtighetened bolts to deal with.
-juice
The service manager told me this morning that several OBs have come in with the same symptom and they have not been able to diagnose the problem. Subaru Canada has been aware and same deal...no solution. They questioned whether it is a problem with the catalytic converter, but they are not sure.
I did have my car undercoated, but the smell of the Krown product burning off is very distinctly different, and regardless, the burning rubber smell was evident before I had the Krown applied. The Krown "burning off" smell was gone in about a week. It can't be the original undercoat....my car is 3 years old.
I notice that ZROCK posted back on Nov 1 regarding the same problem. I did not see whether he responded with a resolution.
I have had a few too many little problems with my Subaru, and question whether I will get another when time comes next year to get a new vehicle, even though warranty has covered them all. This "smell" problem may be the straw that breaks the camel's back.
Any thoughts or suggestions?
Thanks.
If you see any oil spots, try to WD40 them off.
Meanwhile, keep the air on recirculate, and crack the moonroof open.
-juice
Cheers!
Paul
It appears to be coming from dash area ( not in console housing speedometer) directly in front / marginally to left of the driver. It sounds as if a bracket were loose and two or more pieces were hitting / rattling together. The rattle occurs whenever the car is jarred from a bump or rough pavement. Not excessively rough mind you. It pretty much occurs every few minutes during city type driving. The car has to be travelling 50 to 60 km ( will not occur when going over speed bump - too slow0
Unfortunately for me , lucky for the dealers .. roads around their business are not rough . Local shop was kind enough to look at undercarriage. Could not find cause.
Anyone else have a similar situation? Solutions?Any help will be appreciated.
P.s. sorry if it is duplicate. tried to research but only found dash rattles with middle console( had that too , before it was fixed)
Cheers Pat.
It could be that something is loose in the engine bay area. I've had two noises that I was able to track down and remedy. One was the clamp on the fuel filter. It rattled anytime I came off the gas quickly. Greasing the clamp cleared it right up. The other was the engine hood. Every time I hit a big bump, I would hear a rebound "clunk". It turned out that the rubber bumpers pushing up onto the hood needed to be extended by turning them counterclockwise. This put pressure on the hood and allowed the latch to close snugly.
Ken
Just the other day, I did notice that I a very short "squeak" and some resistance, also right after starting the engine. However the problem was just for a second and never came back up.
Since I had a bunch of friends waiting on me to give them a lift, I didn't have time to figure out what was the cause. Tomorrow, I'll check it out again but I wanted to have some ideas of what to look for. I'm guessing it's the either the accessory belt or the power steering pump failing.
Any ideas?
Ken
Are you hearing any unusual grinding sounds coming from the vicinity of the power steering pump or alternator? If so, that would be an indication of bearing problems.
Good luck.
Eric
-Colin
I checked the PS fluid and it looks okay so I think my belt is probably slipping. It's time I changed it anyway.
Colin -- it looks like the alternator and PS pump are on one belt while A/C is on it's own.
In the mean time, I'd like to get rid of that awful noise and restore PS. Is the tension in the alternator belt controlled by the position of the alternator alone? Is there any other way of measuring belt tension other than getting a spring gauge (which I don't have)?
Ken
Cheers Pat.
It's the bolt labeled #2 picture 3/4 of the way down this thread:
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1067
Anyone know if it can be swapped with any old bolt?
Ken
the 12mm bolts holding the AC tensioner pulley should be about the same. take one to the hardware store with you to get the right thread pitch.
-Colin
I just want to ask opinion of you guys.
I have 03 Forester XS.
First time (at 1.6K miles) I noticed that the engine oil level was somewhere in between "L" and "F" on the dipstick. I brought car to a dealer and they said that it is normal for Subaru vehicles to consume up to 1 quarter of oil per 1K miles. They will the oil up to the "F" mark and send me on my way. Is it a correct statement? I had multiple cars before but never saw a new car to consume oil. BTW, there is no leaks for the engine compartment.
After that at 1.8K miles I changed oil with Penzoil Syntetic 10W30 and I hoped that the engine will stop consuming oil. Unfortunately, it did not happen. Today (at 4.7K miles), when I checked the oil level (before engine was started, with 46F outside) my oil level was just a little bit above "L" level. I had added a quarter of oil and it brought it to a "F" level. However, after I started the engine, run the car on a freeway for 15 minutes and then let it cool for about half-an-hour, the oil level was above the upper notch on the dipstick. Does it mean that I over filled the engine oil?
I just want to know what is a correct way to check engine oil level (cold or warm)? And if the Subaru's engines known to consume oil? Does this oil consumtion indicates a potential problem and is it something that I should do to look into?
Leo
My mechanic says there's a problem with the idle air control valve. He's cleaned it once and it didn't fix the problem. He said then that he would have to replace it, and that it was around a $800 job.
Is the idle air control valve the likely culprit? I've seen other discussions that it could be the EGR - should I ask my mechanic to check for that? Unfortunately the computer code for the check engine light seems to be "undocumented condition" - this is according to a gas station where I pulled in the first time this happened.
Thanks
David
Anyway, the new screw went right into the tensioner and all seems to be okay for now. I just tried to guess the appropriate tension by comparing it to the A/C belt.
That one screw seems like an Achilles' heel -- it's the only thing preventing the alternator from swinging down and causing the belt to slip off. I searched over at i-club and it doesn't seem like an uncommon event. Just something to keep in mind in case you get an awful squeeling, loose power steering and the battery light comes on!
Ken
Ken
It's not uncommon for boxers to consume oil. Subaru usually won't address oil consumption as a problem until you get to 1qt/1000 miles. I've been going through 1qt/2000miles for quite some time now. All my seals check out and I don't get blue puffs of smoke from my exhaust so I'm not worried. Then again, there are others at my milage that don't burn a drop.
However, it is kind of strange to think that such a new vehicle as yours is consuming oil. If I recall, I didn't notice my oil consumption until well past the 40K mile mark. You might want to make sure the dealer is noting your concerns just in case it does get worse. In the meantime, try and track exactly how much oil you are consuming.
As for checking the oil level, cold before any driving will probably give you the most accurate results. When you're measuring cold, the "F" is the highest the level should be. The notch above the "F" is used for when the engine is warm.
The dipstick on Subarus is a little tricky to read sometimes. Check both sides of the dipstick and take the lower reading of the two. Also make sure you're on level ground when doing so.
Ken
-mike
//this VIN: JF1SF6552XH708203
It is normal for a new car to consume some oil during the breakin and even for a while afterwards. I also find it worth noting that you say you've "never had a new car use oil" (they all do), and in the same post ask the correct way to check oil. If you don't know how to check oil (without doubt the MOST basic thing to know about an engine), then I think that statement is suspect at best.
You also gave us no miles, and you also do not state if you checked the oil at any time. Given all that, I would not worry about what has transpired with your car.
IdahoDoug