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Comments
The caveat is Enterprise picks you up and takes you to their office about 5 miles away, so it takes an extra 20 minutes or so.
-Dennis
My Forester has not been without its problems as well - mostly related to rear wheel bearing failures - and I have had some frustration in dealing with Subaru dealers' attempts to correct the problem. Mostly this has been along the classic "they all do that" or "you are hearing things" line. However, SoA corporate has treated me very well throughout the process and that has gone a long way with me. While I'm not 100% sure that my car is "bulletproof" I at least know that someone in Cherry Hill has a vested interest in leaning on their dealer network to set things right.
For what it's worth, auto manufacturers pay attention and improve product once they lose customer base and market share, as well as when they are subject to very public criticism such as we can give in these fora. If you haven't sought recourse under the lemon laws in your state, perhaps you should. If not, cut your losses and get rid of the car.
Good luck,
Ed
He explained that it was fixed, I explained that I could hear that it was not a steady idle even if the tach wasn't showing much fluctuation. As we discussed the issue, the tach started to slowly, visably, waver. I explained that the car was not right, I was given the excuse that the computer could find nothing wrong. The wavering got slowly worse. I explained that the car did not do this for the first year I had it, The tech explained that this was normal, fluctuation and that the engine has 26,000 miles so it is not "pristine".
I was about to politely ask if Subaru corporate or the sales people would agree that their engines should not be able to hold an idle after 26'K, when the idle started to bounce up to 1250 and then down to 750.
Finally, watching the tach, the tech said "Nope that's not idling right" you better bring it in Monday.
While we're on the topic of loaner cars, Bill Kolb Jr. has been using Enterprise, they've put me in a Mirage and an Escort, wow! no comparison the escort really felt poor after the mirage.
Patti, I'll open the file when your phones are working again this afternoon.
John
when warm normal idle is 650rpm. some vibration and shaking can be normally be felt as the engine isn't amazingly smooth nor the chassis isolation all that robust...
-Colin
John
What did they do a decade or more ago when the customer had these problems? Besides slap on a new carburetor or fuel pump, sometimes they did a little thinking and experimenting.
-Colin
From my own perspective I am heartened to hear from several sources that the wheel bearing design for the new Impreza (and, hence, the new Forester on which it is based) has been changed. Of course I will wait and see how those who have bought '03s will fare.
Again, good luck.
Ed
I just recorded 25mpg (yeah!) over the weekend with a long road trip (90% highway), full air and at about 80mph.
Mileage seems to be better when I go faster with max air on? Can't figure that one out....
Ralph
Jim
Edit: 1994 Legacy Turbo, for the last part of my question.
I'll never take power steering for granted again(I think Makinen lost p/s on a recent rally and ended up crashing and knocking the wheel off).
I also had to go birthday shopping for my wife that day. A Metro is downright scary at 65 mph in the rain!
-Dennis
Ed
Hugo: I doubt you be unlucky twice. There are a few bad ones, but not many. Both our Forester and Legacy average 25mpg now.
-juice
I've had a Mirage loaner, too, and thought the same thing. They're LOUD too. Also, a 626 loaner. Neither was anything to write home about.
-juice
Thanks!
-juice
My 2001 Forester was the cat's meow. The 2002 I'm driving now is like a biblical punishment. The trouble I'm going through now far outweighs the enjoyment I had before. This car has been my other job for 8 months.
I suppose I have recourse if it comes to it, but you'd think that after all this trouble I wouldn't have to go that far. It leaves a bad taste in my mouth that I may have to pursue intervention after 6 months of begging them to fix the thing.
Stay tuned.
Jim
You may have a clogged sunroof drain, actually. The seal is not going to keep water out, so there are several drains around the rim of the sunroof. Open the roof and use a strong flashlight at night to look in the front corners for a drain opening inside the frame. Pour a little water in it and see if you hear it hit the pavement behind the front wheel in a couple seconds. If it does not, it's completely clogged. If it dribbles out it's partly clogged. If you can see debris, clear it out carefully so you don't dislodge the drain tube, which goes all the way down near the street behind the front wheel.
Scotty,
There are bulbs back there, but you did not specify which light is out. Does your blue AC button light when activated? If you're talking about the other AC panel lights I can help you. Can't remember which of these Subaru subjects has it, but I replaced all three bulbs about 2 weeks ago and posted the procedure. Takes about 90 minutes if you have the new bulbs on hand. Is this searchable? Can you search my posts for it?
Dougy2 (was IdahoDoug until today??)
Good luck.
Been there done that Steve
If you have a problem and can't explain it any other way, just consider testing the battery.
-juice
There's a few large threads on the iClub about it. There's also a part number for the sensor itself which is a $45 part vs. the entire MAF being about $300.
I can't believe it took FHI this long. This same MY99 part handicapped the 1999 WRX as well in all markets (Impreza turbo then in the UK).
-Colin
I found out yesterday that the rep and mechanic from Subaru I was supposed to meet at 7:30AM wouldn't be there until 9:30 (after I left for work). Also, the loaner car I was assured would be there wasn't, and the man behind the counter had no idea what I was talking about. When they finally got me to the car rental place, they wanted my credit card (for a deposit) or a PO# from the dealer. The dealer wouldn't provide one. I left very angry after an hour of nonsense. Out of everything I was assured would happen, not one actually did.
The dealership just called to tell me the car was ready and that the folks from Subaru had left. I'm told they did something to the tailpipe so the smell wouldn't come in the car anymore, and that it needs an ECU update that I have to go back for because they're too busy today.
I left a message for the person at Subaru dealing with my case to call me back. That was 1 1/2 hours ago.
Draw your own conclusions. I certainly have.
Took my subie for a drive in the snow
got me home i never got lost
now, how much did YOUR 30k maintenance cost?
Also, what's a good replacement for the Geolandars? Popped a 1/2-dollar size hole in the inside sidewall; got a used replacement, but they're @^%#$^ noisy. Suggestions for Oregon climate, please.
Are there others dealers in your area? I guess we're spoiled here in DC, there are 7 within driving distance of me.
-juice
-juice
Anyway, alcohol has less energy in it than gasoline. The higher the percentage of alcohol, the greater the reduction in gas mileage. I think the alcohol content may be posted on the pump.
-james
I think this sort of thing works from the top down...
I would like to flush the brake fluid on
my 99 Forester. I have the service manuals
and the procedure looks pretty straightforward,
however, I'm concerned that there may be
some complications due to ABS. For example,
I read that on some ABS systems (not necessarily
Subaru), if air somehow finds its way into the
braking control system, you will need to take
it to the dealer. The Subarau service manual,
however, does *NOT* have any special warning
messages for cars equipped with ABS.
Does anyone have any practical experience
flushing the brake fluid on an ABS system?
Any info appreciated.
Thanks!
Ken
There's nothing to it. There is a recommended order mentioned in the FSM but I always used RR, RL, FR, FL and it worked well.
If you do get air in the ABS system, a dealer can purge it by using the ScanTool. It's neat.
I never had any problems though. I recommend Valvoline SynPower brake fluid-- cheap, available at Wal-Mart and most autoparts chains, and very good performance. The complete volume of the braking system (1999 with ABS) is 10.1 ounces, so only buy a 16oz bottle. You want to be out or nearly that after one shot, an open bottle of brake fluid absorbs moisture WAY worse than what's in the car.
-Colin
Of course, I got not one block from the dealership when the rotten egg fumes filled the inside of the car. I had to open the vents first, though. Apparently, the folks from Subaru closed them for their test drive. I'm not sure how they could expect to smell anything that way, but what do I know.
The customer service rep finally returned my call at 4:00PM to let me know she was leaving at 4:30 and would return on Monday. Of course, what with leaving work early (again) to pick up the car, I didn't get the message until too late. I guess we'll see if they have someone else contact me tomorrow.
Oh yeah. They dealer also said the car needs to go in for an ECU update next week. They couldn't do it today because they were "too busy".
I know it can't be the WWF89 update, because that one doesn't apply to my car (built later in the year). Has anyone else heard about an update for 2002 Foresters?
How do you like the factory manuals? How many manuals are there and what did it cost you? I've looked at the one for my '97 and it seemed to be several bulky manuals vs an after market Haynes.
On the brakes, I think you'd have to really screw up to get air into the ABS controller. Just keep the reservoir reasonably full and you'll be fine. I've done several ABS vehicles at home with no problems, will echo the Synpower synthetic recommendation and the freshly opened bottle only comment. Some vehicles have a proportioning valve near the rear axle with a bleed valve as well. If yours has this, I believe it was recommended as the last bleed after the wheel calipers were done on vehicles I've done.
IdahoDoug
For 2000, it's 8 manuals. Total cost around $275. (Ouch!) I only got three volumes.
Vol 1 General Overview - Not much detail in some areas. No detail on how to change brake pads but specified the proper order for bleeding brakes. (I'd figure more people change pads at home than bleed brakes.) Did have lots of specs though. (Want to know all the gear ratios???)
Vol 7? Body & Interior - Same thing. Details in some areas but absolutely nothing about outside mirrors!
Vol 8? Wiring Diagrams
They're somewhat helpful but no where near a Haynes. As popular as Subarus are in the UK, I would have thought Haynes would have manuals for them.
Jim
Let's hope it lasts this time, I really like the car otherwise and Subaru has been great at fixing things under warranty, my issues have been more dealer related than car related.
John
-juice
-juice
Looking at the engine itself, it looks like the PCV valve is a typical single part though it does thread into the valve cover (many other manufacturers have a valve that is just a friction fit).
Anyone ever replace their own PCV valve and happen to know the right part number?
Thanks!
Where the PCV is, what the part number is. There's gold to be found on the iClub if you sift the silt enough.
Enjoy.
-Colin
They consist of 6 volumes:
1: General information
2: Engine Section
3: Transmission/Differential
4: Mechanical components
5: Body Section
6: Electrical Section
The whole set costs around $250 from www.subaruparts.com.
For general maintenance, you can get by
with just Vol. 1, however, you can ususally find
more details on the specific procedure in
the appropriate volume.
So far, I think that purchasing the set has
been worth it. But then again, it keeps getting
more expensive every year!
Ken