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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Funny when you find yourself with the same problem that you helped diagnose only two weeks earlier.

    For the first time, I had the smell of gasoline shortly after getting underway tonight. Coldest outside start this winter, around 10'F or so. Popped the hood when I got home and sniffed around. Clean around the fuel filter area, but strong around the lines that drop down to the drivers side fuel injectors, and a trace on the passengers side. Guess I am going to have to get in there and try tightening up the clamps.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    You know sometimes you are asking for trouble with all that expertise built up!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Certainly does sound like a heat shield. The good news is that it causes no performance issues for the car, but the source of the "buzz" can sometimes be rather problematic to locate and quiet.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    And the good news there is if you can isolate it to the heat shield, its a tack-weld job to fix. I have to do the same thing, someday soon.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • sixtystackssixtystacks Member Posts: 17
    Well yesterday Am I had the appt with a local Florida Subaru dealer. When I started the car there was that 'diesel' sound that I had become accustomed to but after I drove about a mile and stopped at the light it was much more muted. Now the previous afternoon when I was at a similar light it was 'banging' pretty good. So as I got to the dealer I felt like the guy going to the dentist who no longer had the toothache. Anyway I explained that a local mechanic that I trusted felt that the sound may be a bad rod bearing and that he others had agreed and that I had taken a case number out with SOA just in case it was serious. The manager was a young guy seemed pretty sharp - said they would take a look; he did say if they had to start dismantling things I would have to pay the time - I said fine. About an hour later the verdict was in and said that they did agree about the engine - he said for sure the heat shield needed to be 'tucked' in - which they did - which I had just paid Subaru in Minnesota to fix before coming down - but he said his only thought was that maybe I had 'stuck lifters' that worked themselves out. It sounds much better all of a sudden. I will call SOA and update the case but am still a bit unsettled about the whole thing - although in this case ignorance reverted to bliss if I'm not looking at a block replacement.

    Is his 'lifter' scenario likely - the car is quieter - at least it was yesterday....

    Thanx all for your input...
  • sixtystackssixtystacks Member Posts: 17
    not quite awake yet... the above should have read...

    ""About an hour later the verdict was in and said that they did not agree about the engine -""
  • scrappy44scrappy44 Member Posts: 2
    I'm surprised all Subaru dealers aren't spouting the same party line on this yet, as it seems to be a very common, well-known problem to them. Half the people in my town own Subarus--and half of those that I meet with about 2000 to 2005 cars report the same issue. My dealer now has a stack of service bulletins copied about the cold start "diesel engine" sound that they just hand out to customers who complain--though they will check over the cars to make sure it isn't something else--like a bad timing belt tensioner. The bulletin says a combination of engine changes, from short-skirt pistons to different valve lifters, combine to make the sound, and it won't effect the life of the engine. If you tell them their answer is unacceptable, the response is that they have tried replacing the entire block on some cars, and the sound just returns after a few thousand miles. Case closed..next customer.

    My take on the whole issue is this. Its a design flaw in the engine--probably causing piston slap. It may shorten the life of the engine in the end, but it probably won't pose a real problem until you're sick of the car and the warranty is looonng passed. That being said, Subaru would rather just say "Ooops!, its just a Subaru quirk, enjoy your car" rather than admit they sent out thousands upon thousands of questionable engines that may need new blocks. Maybe I'm just being cynical, but I'm not impressed with the quality control in my wife's new car at all. (A parting note: a Subarau dealer the next town over has actually hung a sign in their service area saying: "Warning: Subaru's are noisy!")
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Hi Peter,

    Responded to you privately last night. What I should have suggested in my note was that you leave the car with them overnight so that they could assess a cold start, how loud & how long it takes for the clanging to dissappear. That is the real test. Once warmed up, everything is so muted that it can be a lot harder to tell. It might be worth one more visit, or just drive on happy....

    The SOHC Phase II engine does not use 'valve lifters' per se, but there is a mechanical valve lash adjustment. Rarely have I ever heard of anyone touching them unless the motor is torn apart, or there is sufficient ticking to warrant checking them. I remember on my old Toyota and Datsun doing them every 25k miles or things got ugly, but today they don't seem to experience the wear or drift that creates the need for service.
  • denver5357denver5357 Member Posts: 319
    We've had am '07 Outback iWagon AT for about two weeks. This car starts more slowly when cold (single digits) than any car I think I have ever owned. Turn the key and I get the slow "arrr,arrr" and then a start. I was so concerned about it last week I put in a new battery with 2X the CCAs and replaced the OEM battery that was still reading it was fine (my wife and kids are in the Outback and it gets cold here in Colorado). Still started slow last night when it was 10 degrees. Now, so far it has always started ... maybe it is fine. But neither my 93 Corolla nor 05 Odyssey started that slow this week and they don't have new batteries. Is this a Subaru thing? Thanks for any comments.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    My '06 Outback 3.0R has been making a single "clack"-type noise when engaging the brakes at low speeds. I notice it most in parking lots... loud enough to be embarrasing if there are pedestrians near. Seems to come from front, back, left or right, but most often from the front. My '06 Legacy SE sedan has never made this noise. Both have under 10k miles.

    Haven't been to the dealer. Any thoughts?
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    My guess would be that one or more of the brake pads is slopping around in its clip a little bit.
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    If your are unable to check this yourself take it to an independant garage. I think your dealer is full of BS. I find it hard to believe that the whole assembley needs to be replaced. On the whole the sunroof mechanism is a pretty simple device.

    Cheers Pat.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have the whole assembly from my 94 Legacy sitting in the shop if anyone needs it. I'm not sure it fits anything other than a 91-94 Legacy. But we stripped it out of the race car.

    -mike
  • wgould10wgould10 Member Posts: 4
    I have an '06 Outback that has had great difficulty starting in winter since it was new. When temps are generally below 50 degrees, but primarily if below 32 degrees, the engine will crank over well but not catch. Often it can take over 5 minutes of cranking to get the engine to fire. When it does start it does so strong and runs fine after that. The problem occurs about 1 out of every three cold starts. I have had it into the dealer 7 times to address this problem and either they get it to start in the morning or if they don't they do not have any equipment hooked up to tell me what the problem might be. The service manager said that Subaru has heard of the problem and that it is poor quality gasoline. I don't see how this is possible as I fill up at major brands in areas with relativley high pump usage. Further, the answer is extremely unsatisfying because if it were true, then why would my vehicle have the problem but no others in the area.
    The problem totally disappears in the summer and fall months.

    Any suggestions are greatly appreciated as I am about to dump the car if I can't get this solved. This being my third Subaru, I used to love the vehicles.

    Thanks.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    No, not the gas. Especially if it is happening in sub 50 conditions - even water could not account for that unless it was very significant amounts! Perhaps dump a bottle of Heet in it to see if that makes any difference, but I doubt it.

    I am leaning toward an airflow sensor problem, as it sounds like you are not getting any spark when this happens. The intermittent nature of it makes it hard to diagnose, though. When you get a no-start, say, after the first 5-10 turns of the engine, try turning the car completely off, wait a minute, then try again.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    Turn the key to on, let the fuel pump run until it stops (you will hear a humming from the back of the car), and then crank the engine. If this practice does not completely eliminate the problem, let us know.

    Craig
  • kavoomkavoom Member Posts: 181
    >>I just had a bulb go on my 04 Forester fog lights. <<

    There's a website called scoobymods that discusses many fixes for Foresters with pics generally...
  • snowbeltersnowbelter Member Posts: 288
    I have an 07 Outback and I've noticed that even after letting the fuel pump do its thing, the car doesn't always start the first time. I've also noticed that to start it, I need to crank it a little longer than I'm used to.

    My 02 Outback usually started the first time after I primed the fuel pump and required a bit less cranking time.

    Martin
  • wgould10wgould10 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for feedback. I have been trying this solution for nearly two months to no avial. My current routine is that I get in the car, turn the key to on, then buckle my seatbelt, get comfortable, etc allowing more than enough time for the fuel pump to run. I usually hear a faint hum for about 1 sec after turning the key to on and that is all. Unfortunatly, this has had no apparent effect on the problem.

    Any other ideas will be greatly appreciated.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    OK, good to know. Then there's got to be another problem. Have you tried calling the Subaru 1-800 number and setting up a case? If the dealer has not been able to diagnose/fix it after that many trips, and it's enough to make you want to get rid of the car (which is understandeable) then I hope they would take action.

    I have noticed all of our cars (Subarus and Hondas) are stubborn to start ocassionally in cold weather (maybe 1 out of every 15 starts) but your situation definitely sounds abnormal to me, as if there is a problem to diagnose and fix.

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Check the CCA rating on the stock battery.

    For my 98 Forester, it was really low, something like 260 CCAs. I replaced the battery with one that has 535, something like that, and it starts up quicker.

    That might help a little.

    -juice
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Sten,

    You are correct - it is a rotten design. The area around the resistor has a large gap. Any attempt to fill it would probably reduce the airflow around it, and cause it to overheat.

    Steve
  • guestguest Member Posts: 770

    image

    Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.
  • csubarucsubaru Member Posts: 2
    I have a 05' Legacy GT that has had 3 Turbo replaced in 3 weeks! This first one went out in San Francisco and I cannot even get it home, Reno, NV. I am so frustrated. Subaru say this it the first they have heard of the problem. Anyone else?

    Cathy :sick:
  • csubarucsubaru Member Posts: 2
    I have a 05 Legacy GT with 42K miles. The Turbo went out in SF, could not get it home, Reno. Have had to replace it 3 times and still could not get it home. The check engine light came on when it started making noise. Has anyone else had this problem? Subaru is saying this is the 1st time it has heard of it and not being overly cooperative.
    Any suggestions? :sick:

    Cathy
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Well, I haven't observed anyone post about turbo failures here on Edmunds, so it probably is rare.

    Call 800-SUBARU3 to make sure you get SoA's support, including perhaps a loaner to use while they sort it out. Give them time to, don't rush them because then they'll just have to replace #4 as well.

    -juice
  • troutdoorsmantroutdoorsman Member Posts: 17
    2007 Forester has about 500 miles on it. Just recently, when driving 45-50mph, the steering wheel begins to vibrate fairly hard. Any idea what could be causing this, and how it can be fixed? Thanks!
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,761
    Could be alignment, but where are you located? Do you have any recent snow on the ground?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    As Wes hinted, it may be a buildup of ice/snow on the backside of wheels if you have recently driven through winter weather (in which case cleaning the wheels will fix it). If not, then I would suspect that one of the front wheels needs to be rebalanced. I would bring it back to the dealer and let them address the problem under warranty. Should only take a short while to diagnose and re-balance the offending wheel. This is not an uncommon problem on new Subarus. Good luck!
  • asaasa Member Posts: 359
    In regard to your engine ping, are you losing coolant too? Our '04 2.5X (Normally Aspirated) has a leaking head gasket, but Subaru says not. After the Dealer adding one or two bottles of Subaru coolant 'conditioner' (aka Stop Leak), our pinging has subsided and the coolant loss *may* have subsided too.

    I think coolant was getting sucked in on the combustion stroke, hence the engine knock.
  • subi4obssubi4obs Member Posts: 32
    Thanks for the idea of checking into that. I don't think so, but I'll watch for any changes.

    There was one time last summer I noticed the overflow bottle looking low (actually near the low line) so I added some premix. It was a long hot summer and I hadn't added any since getting the car two years before that. And it always seemed okay. I just wanted it to be alright before taking it in for the 30K service-- a bit of owner care on my behalf. :D

    Now I've been using 89 Octane gas a while and haven't gone back to 87 Octane yet. The pinging still happens occassionally, mainly when fully warmed up and going uphill. Doesn't help that the winter cold isn't letting it get real hot to listen for the pings. Need summer heat again for comparison.

    The higher octane gas (or winter cold?) seems to be an improvement anyhow, just not exactly ping-free the way I'd like it to be. And unfortunately there's still that muted backfire sound, like a highpitched plunk!, when backing off the accelerator. Probably little or no change in that. :sick:

    I'm edging closer to the 36K mile warranty so I'm sure I'll be taking it in to seek a remedy, answer, or both.
  • john176john176 Member Posts: 5
    Hi! I posted here a few weeks ago about some noises/vibrations in our 2000 Subaru Forester. Several places told us we needed a new transmission, but we finally took it to the Subara dealership, paid money to get a proper diagnosis, and they're telling me we need to replace the two front axles. We can get remanufactured axles for $500.00 (parts and labor) or all new Subaru axles for $1100.00 (parts and labor). Any recommendations on which is the better option? The car has 106,000 miles on it, and we already replaced one front axle with a reman. two years ago. Thanks for any advice!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Where do you live? I can get the parts for around $150 for rebuilt ones. The labor isn't too bad on them either.

    I'd go with the rebuilt personally.

    -mike
  • gaucho1gaucho1 Member Posts: 22
    Trout,

    Re: Wheel shimmy --

    Check the stupid stuff first: Tire Pressure

    Not just low pressure (as in colder temps, winter), but uneven pressure can cause such stuff, especially in certain speed bands.

    Next, have the wheels re-balanced. You might have thrown a balancing lead. Have the wheel alignment checked, as well.

    Beyond that, you can start checking the expensive stuff -- Bent wheel rims, bent sterring linkages, etc. At your car's mileage, those are not likely. Tire pressures are, though. They should be checked at least once a week. If you find one that is consistently losing air (just a little) consider replacing the tire's valve core.

    The local superstores (KMart, Walmart) usually carry an inexpensive air pump which can be plugged into a cigarette lighter or a DC power outlet. They are cheap insurance!

    Gaucho
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    One more stupid stuff to check.

    Check that all the lug nuts are tighten.

    -Dave
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Member Posts: 775
    Lug nuts need to be tightened, but not over-tightened. Loosen all the lug nuts and use a clicker torque wrench to torque them to spec in three passes 52-62-72 ft-lb.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    All hands on board!

    Another foray into world of Subies (and submarine sandwiches perhaps)

    The Subaru Crew Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    A couple of minor problems sometimes are mentioned on these threads. First: about window washers suddenly not functioning. We live in a pretty cold area and I had non functioning window spray at times on various cars I've owned. I noticed it was usually after I hadn't used the washers for an extended period of time. I came to the conclusion that right at the nozzle point the washing solution separates over time and just leaves a tiny bit of water at the nozzle which freezes. I just take a glass or more of hot water and pour it over the nozzle and immediately hit the washer button. This usually clears it. I have to remind myself to use the washers from time to time.
    The second item is sudden frosting on the inside of the windshield shortly after driving from a cold start. It can be scary. If your car isn't kept in a garage and there was a fresh snowfall, your grill and the top of your bumpers should be brushed off along with your windshield and hood. Sometimes when you drive off without the area in front being cleaned air will get blown in with snow into the heater air system. This can cause sudden inside frosting. Conditions have to be just right but it can happen. Shouldn't happen after you have driven a few miles or after the car is warmed. If it does then something else may be wrong. ....Jim
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    "If it does then something else may be wrong."

    Yep, like you may have the temperature control knob turned in the wrong direction. :P
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Jim,

    Right at the base of the windshield where the wipers park is a slotted section in the black plastic cowl panel. That is the air intake for the HVAC system, so keeping this clear is important if you want to avoid drawing in snow or excessive moisture that will fog the glass.

    Steve
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    You are right there Steve. On some cars I've had there was quite a bit of clearance between the hood and the HVAC intake allowing air from the engine compartment to flow over the grid. Even then it's a rare occurance, with snow consistency, humidity, temperature , wind direction,speed all just right for it to happen. I don't have a garage and every time I turn my back my two cars have a contest to see how many pine needles, maple seeds, pollen particles, seed coatings they can store in that air intake. The squirrels are always circling around.(maybe they think I'm nuts?)
    Jim :confuse:
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Yeah,....I've done that too...

    Jim :)
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Does anyone have any recommendations as to a reliable, reasonable Subaru new parts supplier? I see I have "subaruparts.com" in my favorites. I think some people on these boards have been satisfied with them. Any others that people have used? I might need a source and don't want to wait till I have a problem. Most local repair shops here just call a subaru dealer for a part and they aren't too eager to send them promptly. The dealer wants to do it themselves. In fact I don't mind having a dealer do it if I feel I won't get taken advantage of. The place I have had do work for the last 23 years just shut down. So now I'm looking at alternatives. Jim
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    allsubaru.com has been good for me.
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Thanks Jeff.....I looked at both sites to see where they were located. I finally determined that they were located in Washington. I checked the area code on the fax number for subaruparts. Funny that neither site shows where their main office is located. It's not necessary cause I think they have warehouses in more than one location in the U.S.
    I would think that whoever designed their website would have given that some degree of importance though. Thanks again Jeff.....
    Jim
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Jim,

    I think it is quite intentional. Most of these sites are medium sized dealerships that open up an internet store to move merchandise quickly and make some extra cash. They don't really want their traditional customers to know. How would their walk-in customers feel about paying list at the counter when they can use their computer from the local Dunkin Doughnuts and order the same item from the same counter at a 20-25% discount?

    Steve
  • toboggantoboggan Member Posts: 283
    Ran the OBW through a car wash (had to turn off the radio to lower the antenna). After several blocks remembered to turn radio back on. Antenna didn't come up. Hmm, that's happened before when it's been cold. Got home and parked in the garage. Used small screw driver to pry antenna up (done this before). Used a hair dryer to warm antenna up to hopefully dry out any moisture. Sprayed silicone on antenna. Turned radio off, antenna lowered just fine. Turned on radio, antenna didn't come back up. :cry:

    Previously followed the above steps with no problem. Time to buy a replacement antenna?? And where on-line to get one for a decent price?

    Thanks.

    MNSteve
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    Steve....
    Good explanation!!! Makes sense to me.
    Thanks!!
    Jim :)
  • w8ifiw8ifi Member Posts: 78
    If your garage is warm, I would just give it a few days to dry out a little more before I would replace.

    Jim
  • jeffmcjeffmc Member Posts: 1,742
    Jim-
    allsubaru.com is affiliated with Carter Subaru near Seattle. (nation's #4 sales volume Subie dealer for '06, I think.) For me, I'd rather order online and pickup at the dealer than pay for shipping, but they can't let me do that and still give me their online pricing. Oh well.
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