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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    I though of that. But the scale is from 0-14 (I incorrectly said 0-15 in my earlier post) for a total of 15 not 16 increments. Plus moving the handle one full turn (15 increments) coincides with a change of 10 ftlbs on the shaft. If it were ounces it would require 10 turns to equal 10 ftlbs.
    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    In that case, I have no idea. Do you have photos of it? Instructions, maybe? I'm sure an OCD specialist like yourself already has checked the manual.

    Mine is pretty simple. Just twist the dial, then lock it in place.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That is just like mine. Yours is graduated every 10 ft-lbs, while mine shows every 5. I bet yours has a bigger range of torque settings.

    I imagine those are ounces, perhaps not labeled properly? Try 70lbs + 10 on the knob, and then just 80lbs +0, and see if they "feel" the same. I bet the 80ft-lbs is tighter.

    -juice
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    The funny thing is there are 10 absolute click turns of the handle between 70 and 80 but they do not line up with anything on the 0-14 scale. If I set the scale to 5 it correspondes roughly with 4 click turns of the handle. So sure 70 plus 10 would be less that 80 since it really only represents 7 click turns of the handle which would be a lower torque setting than a full turn to 80. My complaint is that there is no visual reference for setting toque in anything less than 10 ftlb incremements. Seems like lame design doesn't it. Does you scale on the handle show increments of 5 and do they line up with the click turn of the handle?

    bit
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sounds like the scale is just wrong, then.

    On the shaft itself, mine is labeled with 5 lb-ft increments. The knob itself is split into 1/2 lb-ft increment, so I see 0, 0.5, 1, 1.5 ... up to 4.5.

    Maybe they just put the wrong labels on yours. I'm sure yours is 1 ft-lb increments, then.

    -juice
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    My Craftsman torque wrench allows 1 ft-lb increments and has the 10 position dial. And every 10 clicks matches up to a tenth number (50, 60, 70, etc.) So, 65 is 5 clicks past 60 (and matches up to the 5 on the rotating scale).

    Sounds (and looks) like they're using the wrong increment scale. Send it back!

    -Brian
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    See, I'm not an idiot. Both of your wrenches make perfect logical sense. Surprisingly I spoke with 4 folks at SK who didn't understand the problem. One was an "engineer".

    I did send it back.

    bit
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    ...their engineers are the same ones who created Spinal Taps' amps. This one goes to Eleven. It's one louder.

    None more better...
    -Brian
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Question for Patti:
    In the owner's manual, it indicated that the fluid/oil should not be mixed with different brand(s). So, for a do-it-yourselfer (that ain't me) who needs to top up the fluid/oil, how does anyone know what brand is in there? Hmmm...would the Dealer Service even know?
    Oh, the manual didn't say.

    p/s I know what's in mine. Had them all drained and refilled.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yeah, but what if you need that extra bit of torque, and you're already at 10, then what can you use to get you over the edge?

    "This one goes to eleven".

    -juice
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Member Posts: 317
    Could you post which model Craftsman torque wrench you have when you have a chance?
    Thanks,
    Ranger Ron
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    Or it could work as a safety feature. You feel the need to over torque... so go ahead take her to 64 ftlbs but what you really get is 60.

    bit
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Craftsman Microtork, model #44595. It's a 1/2" drive and has a range of 20-150 ft-lbs in 1 ft-lbs increments.

    -Brian
  • rchandler13rchandler13 Member Posts: 1
    Bought a used 98 I in April with 28K. I now have 35,500. Like car very much - BUT - I have one very irritating symptom, which concerns me all the more since the transmission was overkilled when I took delivery from the Saturn dealer. AT low PM's, mainly in the top two gears of the AT, I get a noise upon light acceleration (and maintaining speed up a gradual hill). It almost sounds like the kind of rumble you'd expect from an exhaust hitting something, but I have checked all bushings and clearances carefully. Ground speed of car does not matter, so it's not wind.

    I am concerned that this is actually a transmission/differential noise and doesn't bode well for the long haul. Since I drive 30,000 miles per year, I reach the long haul (and the end of a warranty window) quickly. Besides the original overfill, I often can smell the sweet smell of AT fluid when the windows are down and I have been driving a while (particularly up hill to my house in the hills). There are no visible leaks. The windows are down either because I am a) too hot or I) too sick of listening to the rumble noise as compared to window noise.

    It seems to be worse with four passengers than one or two, but it is always there. If I accelerate more rapidly, it goes away. If I back off on the throttle completely, it goes away. Could it be something inside the exhaust (I wiggled all the external shields)? Or is it really in the drive train?

    I have learned to ignore the noises rubies "always" make (I and/or my wife have had 5 of them from AL to Legacy to Outback Sport - transmission whine, rear gate rattles, rear door pillar rattles, and in the Forester only, engine rattle when cold (even if it's 85 degrees when you fire her up). In the end, I couldn't stand the terrible clutch in the 2000 Outback Sport (an otherwise FUN car), and traded it with only 16 I after being told by the dealers that it was "normal". This is my first automatic in 300,000 miles of driving standards (since the 90 Legacy LS). Why does Subaru always come SO close to the perfect car, only to blow it on one major item or another (early exhausts/radiators, early AS computers, rust, Impreza clutch)?

    The Forester (my daughter has a 2001L too) seems the best yet, But this noise has me waiting for the shoe to fall - partly because nobody else seems to have it and I have a history of getting dealers to say "bee we never saw that before - or since".

    I have two dealer choices on this - one nearby with only 2 years experience and high service turnover or another I like a lot that is 45 miles away. So I turn to you. Any ideas?
    Thanks for your help - many minds make better decisions!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You may want to get the ATF flushed and refilled, even if it's not due.

    The rattling could be a heat shield near the exhaust that works itself loose when the engine gets warm.

    Just my 2 cents' worth.

    -juice
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    Your symptoms could be describing light pinging under load, especially since it is worse with increased weight (passengers) and increased load (hill). I would try the next higher octane gas and see if it disappears.

    Regards,
    Frank
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    As per your suggestion to have the glaze removed on the pads and rotor, this has been done numerous times by the dealer, almost everytime that it goes in for service and the results are the same the squeal and growl sound return. Wether its day or night, rainy or sunny, morning or afternoon. I think they are just tired to see us come in with our Forester with the same complaints all the time. Last time it was in to check the brakes, embarrassing for this dealer,I marked a couple of lug nuts to the wheel on each wheel with a marker and as we thought they never even removed the wheels to service but said as usual that they did and all Foresters do it.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Hugo- The brakes on my 01 Forester have never ever squeaked. Why does it seem that every service dept's first line of defense is to say that "they all do that"?

    -Frank P.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I very rarely find a dealer at least none of the Isuzu, and subaru dealers I've encountered that doesn't claim a problem to be normal if it is not easily explainable or fixable. It's weird but they all say everything is normal or that they can't find the problem. Things like "Customer claims" and "According to customer"

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Mine also never once squeeked. Knock on wood.

    -juice
  • armac13armac13 Member Posts: 1,129
    So far, 11 months +, my Forester's brakes have been abnormally quiet.

    Ross
  • originalbitmanoriginalbitman Member Posts: 920
    So I finally got to talk to someone intelligent regarding the SK torque wrench. It was a person at the company that designs the wrenchs for SK. He immediately saw the problem and concluded it was an assembly issue and hoped it was only this particular wrench. When I pointed out to him that the instruction manual and SK catalog both showed the same miss match of parts he was just slightly freaked. Don't you think I deserve a free wrench? Odd no one else has realized this until now.

    bit
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Interestingly, my Impreza's brake pads squealed a fair bit about six to eight thousand miles ago. I brake conservatively on the street, but I thought then that they were near the end of the pad because of autocross use.

    Nope-- still have plenty of pad at 32k miles and many autocrosses. And they don't squeal at all, haven't for a while. Pretty weird.

    -Colin
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
  • rangerron7rangerron7 Member Posts: 317
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    OCD wins again. We're better at quality control than SK is!

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    saved me last week when I was "adjusting" the oil level in my OB after the dealer changed it. Upon loosening the plug, I went too far and it fell into the pan (can I blame this on it being midnight?) and most of the oil came out. I did not have enough new oil on hand. Thanks to OCD I was draining it into a very clean pan which allowed me to reuse it. Upside - did my first oil change....sort of and learned how to remove the plastic housing underneath. :)

    -Greg

    P.S. Also installed my hood deflector. Actually like the way it looks agains the Winestone. No pics though - was kinda in a rush as usual.
  • seamus3seamus3 Member Posts: 98
    when i turn my steering wheel all the way to the right it makes sort of a whining sound. what is wrong with my sooby? it is only when i fully turn the wheel to the right, no sound when i turn totally to the left.

    at one point the place i was taking my car said something about a very small leak around the right front wheel. i think it was something about a bearing. i don't have any written record, and it was probably 9 months ago that i was told.

    thanks
    seamus
  • hammersleyhammersley Member Posts: 684
    If the noise occu...ocurr... umm... happens when the wheel is up against the stops (full-lock) - it's probably just the power steering pump objecting a bit.. why it happens on hard lock right & not hard lock left I don't know... lots of power steering units on many varieties of cars do the same thing. First thing I'd do is check power steering fluid level.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Seamus,

    Sounds like the steering wheel pump to me too -- a little noise is normal since the pump is operating at it's limit. Other cars do this too.

    Ken
  • ehilder1ehilder1 Member Posts: 2
    My 97 OB Limited with 55K miles is getting a new short block after the dealer spending over a month figuring out that the overheating issue I had was because the car busted both head gaskets... First it was the radiator cap, then the thermostat, then it was my imagination. All this time I appealed that it was the head gaskets. Finally the things gave way. They replaced the head gaskets on the car and about a week later my #4 Rod Bearing went out..(probably because coolant got in the engine) What a shaky deal!
    Now they are putting a new short block in the car. Does anyone have any information about what block they replace with these days? Phase I or II? They said the short block I am getting now is going to be brand new so is that a good thing? Should I be concerned about the condition of my heads or valve's being they are not replacing those?
    If it is the new Phase II block, is the new block better then the one I had in the car?
    I am really pissed about this crap as I collectively had the car in the garage for a month!
    To top it off the Short Block is on back order (sounds like they are having all kinds of block problems according to a mechanic I spoke to.) Subaru is paying 30 bucks a day for a rental until its fixed but that doesn't change the fact I have a car with major mechanical issues under 60K miles!
    I thank god for the warranty, but I am sure Subaru is shooting themselves in the foot with these problems and their power train warranty. I am ready to get rid of this car just because I have read an unusual amount of similarities between my problem and other folks aluminum block and head nightmares. If any of you out there have had issues with your Phase I block please write me as I am in the initial discovery period of formulating a legal discovery into these issues.
    Any information about this would be great!
    Thanks!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's not as common as that mechanic implies. I've heard of piston slap, but yours is the first case of block replacement I've heard of on these boards.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    I would guess that they're going to use the Phase II shortblock, since the are apparently compatible and Subaru has switched over to the Phase II motor completely.

    From what I've heard the Phase II block is more durable than the Phase I block. Having said that, I haven't heard of problems with Phase I block itself.

    Ken
  • ehilder1ehilder1 Member Posts: 2
    The mechanic told me he has seen more then 15 Phase I engine blocks / heads cracked or fail very early in their mileage. I am assuming it may have something to do with warmer weather. Its not uncommon for it to get over 100 here during the summer and I am sure that places plenty of stress on those aluminum heads and gaskets... This car was never over heated and after exploring several boards (alt.subaru, -club) I have found more then 5 with the same issues way below a decent amount of mileage.
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    Edward- "I am in the initial discovery period of formulating a legal discovery into these issues." Yikes! Sounds like a lawyer talking. I don't know of any endemic problems with Subaru engines. Sounds like you just got a bad one. In any case, you're getting a rebuilt engine for free and their paying for a rental until they fix it so what's to complain about? If yours had been a 3/36 power train warranty you would, in all likelihood, be footing the entire bill, which no doubt will be in the thousands. Bottom line, yes it's been a hassle but they're finally fixing it so why ditch the car or consider legal action?

    -Frank P.
  • bigfrank3bigfrank3 Member Posts: 426
    They redesigned the heads for Phase II, I don't think they are compatable with a Phase I block (Colin?). Since they are going to use your old heads, I would bet it will be a Phase I block. It is always easier to replace "in kind".

    Regards,
    Frank
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Nah, you can fit the new symmetric SOHC heads on an older block. You need the appropriate intake manifold and plug wires.

    Also, the SOHC EJ25 combustion chamber volume is less than the DOHC EJ25 though, so watch those compression ratios... in short it's not a direct swap for someone desiring a "stock-like" engine.

    -Colin
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    If a repair shop can't tell a blown head gasket from a bad radiator cap, then I recommend that it is time for you to run, not walk, to the nearest suitable replacement facility. Those people don't know what they're doing.

    Best of luck,
    -wdb
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    In fact, I think I read a couple threads in i-club about people who have "hybrid" engines. That is Phase I heads on Phase II blocks. It looks like there was a transition period when Subaru was moving between the two models.

    Ken
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    Uh no. Actually blown head gaskets in the Subaru EJ series of engines can be extremely difficult to troubleshoot.

    In most of the cases, virtually none of the 'normal stuff' you expect to happen will happen. For example, if you remove the radiator cap and fire it up, you won't see any bubbles even if the head gaskets are both blown.

    What the EJ series usually does is leak cylinder compression past the head gasket quench area, which blows coolant out of the block and into the overflow tank. In the early stages the engine won't overheat at all unless you're really giving it a workout. Later on moderate acceleration will do it... all assuming that nothing worse has happened to the aluminum block and heads which are extremely intolerant of overheating.

    -Colin
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    My GF's 99 Forester had the head gaskets replaced at 35K. When pointing out to the Subaru dealer some leeks he immedietly looked at it. Confirmed that it was a head gasket, had one ordered and within 3 days the car was in the shop with a loaner provided. The only gripe we had that we got the engine back dirty as it was when it went in, IMHO the engine should of been washed before/after taking it apart.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I met an i-clubber a few weeks ago that had a head gasket blow during a TSD rally (RS with Phase I engine). I believe those type rallies have relatively low speeds of 25-35 mph, IIRC.
    Keeping my fingers crossed as my wife's 99 OB nears 52,000 miles.

    Dennis
  • francophilefrancophile Member Posts: 667
    Colin, I tried to post this last night but for some reason it did not appear.

    As far back as 1980 there was a simple tool for checking for exhaust gases in the cooling system. Remove the radiator cap, screw down another cap in its place -- which is attached to a bottle with some fluid in it. Run the motor; if the fluid changes color then there are exhaust gases in the cooling system. Simple.

    I used it quite a bit, and it was very handy in sniffing out blown head gaskets. I can't imagine that it or something like it is not still available.

    Cheers,
    -wdb
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    I couldn't add any comments in my post above because Edmunds said I had over 115 characters.
    Anyway, I found the above info by searching on google.com
    Colin, wdb care to comment on the above?
    "..A leaking head gasket will not always show up on a pressure test. A block check tester or an infrared exhaust analyzer can also be used to check to see if there is exhaust gas in the coolant."

    Dennis
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    FYI- I posted current info on Darlene's (AKA QSubaru) situation over in the Dealers & Pricing Forum.

    -Frank P.
  • winwashwinwash Member Posts: 5
    Has SOA ever come up with a fix for the rough (abrupt) 2nd to 3rd shift in the 99 Forester AT?First few shifts in morning are always abrupt,other shifts are always smooth.Also occurs ocasionally when tranny is warmed up.Mobil 1 ATF installed at 18K and three times since to drain as much of OE fluid as possible.No real improvement in shifting (2nd to 3rd)Have 30K on car now.THANKS-WINWASH
  • jmcknight2jmcknight2 Member Posts: 47
    - My '01 Forester with automatic has done exactly the same thing since it was new. When cold, or even after being parked just a few minutes with the engine off, it shifts real hard ( and at a higher-than-normal r.p.m. ) from 2nd to 3rd gear. If I let the vehicle warm up 2 - 3 minutes before driving, the problem is diminished or absent. The dealer said that it was a sensor doing this, and that it is " normal ". I don't like it, but I've learned to live with it. - Jim
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