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1970's & '80s Volvos

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  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Yes, a 210 is the wagon version of the 544. I have a picture here of a 1961 Volvo wagon, which is called in this book I'm reading a "Duett Utility" and numbered as a P 445. This is from a 1961 book from Europe that I have. I'd love to have one!

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  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    You said yourself at one point that a 122 wagon isn't a bad choice at all as well.
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    THe 445 was based on the B16 volvo 444. WHen it became equipped with B18 and 12 Volt electrical system, it was renamed to 210.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    a 210 would be a better choice I think although the 445 looks pretty nice.

    A 122 wagon wouldn't be a bad car to tinker with. I'd suggest an IPD cam to get rid of the junk stock camshaft, a B20E head, rebuilt engine with Mahle pistons and Vandervel bearings, SU carbs, electronic ignition, American alternator with revised mounting system (stock Volvo generator mount is BAD), steel timing gears, overdrive transmission, bilstein shocks, thicker swaybar and a/c from a Japanese car. Now wouldn't that be a nice ride!

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  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    .. the alternator and its mounting. They're just fine.

    If you use a B20E head, you'd better also bore the stock B18 block to a B20.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    No I mean the stock 122 generator mounting--it's really bad. So I would switch from generator to alternator.

    Yes, boring to 2 liters would be great.

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  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    What are the advantages of an alternator over a generator?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    mostly better charging at low speeds I think.

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  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    We've had this discussion before, and I have never had any problems with the alternator or generator mounting whatsoever.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    The generator mounts wear from vibration. I don't think I ever saw a good one on a B18. Very common problem.

    People compensate by tightening the swing arm and this create excessive tension, which then wipes out the water pumps, another problem on the B18s.

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  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    I never had that problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Look at the u-shaped bracket that holds the generator. The holes are starting to wobble out into an oval. Most people don't notice it unless it gets really bad.

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  • jrosasmcjrosasmc Posts: 1,704
    I've discussed over in the Alfa Romeo board the value and/or significance of the last Spiders produced for the U.S., which were called "Commemorative Editions." It was mentioned that all they are were leftover '93 Spiders sold here as '94s, and that they're not worth significantly more because of the special badging and dashboard trim.

    Volvo did something similar back in 1993, sending the last 1600 240s built from about Feb. to April over to the States as "240 Classics." These Volvos had special alloy wheels, body-colored trim and mirrors, wood trim, and a special dashboard plaque that told you what number of 1600 your car was, all too reminiscent of those so-called '94 Alfa Spiders. What bugs me is that these 240 Classics are being sold for ridiculously high prices, whether they're on Ebay or not. And I know that my own '93 Volvo (not a 240, but an 850) will bring about $5500 tops if I tried to sell it; people claim that you can get about $9000 for a clean 240 Classic. Any comments and/or reflections on this Volvo phenomenon?
  • ghuletghulet Posts: 2,628
    ....I'm guessing anyone who would pay $9000 for any Volvo 240 either needs a psychiatric examination, or they think last-of-the-breed automatically means collectible (which, IMO, is highly doubtful in this case). You know how it is, people can ask whatever they want for anything, and in many cases, there's someone somewhere willing to pay it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    I suppose in an auction you can hype some foolish people into spending more than they should, but a few careless purchases certainly do not make the market.

    If you pay $4,000 over book for a car with some decals and a few odd trim pieces, then it's YOUR turn to hype the car and get someone to pay $4,000 over book so you can break even. But the book value stays the same no matter if a few people over-pay.

    Common sense dictates that you cannot intrinsically increase a car's value with $100 worth of add-ons. Especially when the car was not exactly everyone's "dream machine" to begin with.

    At least the Bertone models had a different roof line, but here again it was just a tarted-up old Volvo, and a not very pretty one at that.

    Now on the other hand there was the Volvo 123GT, which IS worth more because the GT equipment is significant and really worth having, like overdrive, special dash, and I believe other mods which I forget at the moment. So that car is worth double a run of the mill 122.

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  • ghuletghulet Posts: 2,628
    Last night I saw a pretty ratty, kelly green 244 wagon, I'm guessing late '70s (single round headlights, taillights not flush), containing the requisite young bohemians. The kicker was, this car had Montana plates (I'm in Chicago). I can't imagine driving a ratty old Volvo that far, though I guess it says something about its durability. Or maybe it just says something about the owners, I dunno.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Oh, they run and run those old Volvos---I mean if we took that car in for diagnostics there would probably be 125 things wrong with it, but the basic driveline in those cars can stagger along for ages--I'm sure by now it's noisy, wheezy, and thumps and bumps like a Third World percussion concert, but you rarely will see a catastrophic failure in these cars. You do have to be tolerant of a lot of basic faults, though. You aren't going to get the solid feel of an old German car.

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  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    This car is also worth more because it's rare. The Tach, stromger engine, and mirrors are also included in the items special for this car. I want one....
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Me, too. It would be a great car to have--so easy to work on, attractive in a plain Swedish kind of way (pretty clean design) and even sorta fun to drive, good fuel economy, sturdy, lots of parts available except trim pieces. All in all, a real bargain in a very driveable "collectible" car.

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  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    They seem to be pretty expensive, though. At least the asking proces are high. What do you think a mint 123GT should be worth in the Mid West?
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    How would the market react to modifications such as the ones we've been talking about? (bigger head, 2.2liter, bigger cam, etc.)

    I saw a 121 with a B20E complete with the FI and all in Sweden not too long ago.
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    There were (very) few 16 valve DOHC aluminum heads made by Volvo and others in the mid 70's for the B20 engines. Now that would be cool!!! I remember having seen an article about a 121 with a Turbocharged, NOS, 16 valve B20. This car had a top speed of 180-190MPH, and the engine had 450 HP at 9000RPM.... It was dubbed the Midnight Blower, and would scare many vettes in Stockholm at the time.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    180-190 mph sounds dreadfully optimistic don't you think? I don't see how the aerodynamics would permit such speeds with "only" 450HP, and besides, I don't know who'd be nuts enough to go that fast in a 70s Volvo. Even a new Viper or Vette can't go that fast with equal or more HP and both are a mighty handful at 160+

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  • justinjustin Posts: 1,918
    i had a hand-me-down Volvo DL, 1980, that was given to me in 1989. 4 Door, gas engine, 4 speed with OD, tan terry cloth interior. everyone else in school had Escort GT's or Baretta's, but i had the Volvo. even then, i knew the Volvo was HOT. if only i had taken care of it. i got rid of it with about 170k on the clock. somehow anti-freeze was in the oil. not pretty. but over it's lifetime, before it was "mine", it only needed numerous exhaust systems and that is it.

    personally, i miss it so much. if i could get a 93 sedan or wagon, in good shape, i would love it. they had "style" that nothing today has. i know they aren't for everyone, but i can still smell the interior of that car. crank sunroof, no tach, wobbly speedo, huge steering wheel, four round headlights up front. beautiful! :)
  • bleonardbleonard Posts: 2
    I am looking for a engine wiring diagram and a clean wiring harness.

    Bill
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    I think eBay is your best shot or googling the specialty Volvo boards.

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  • wascarwascar Posts: 1
    How do I know when I need new shocks ? How do I know if I need them in front or back or both ? It sure bounces over the Boston streets. What's kind is best for the 240 ? 1993, - 100,000. miles
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,261
    Bilsteins if you can afford them. Boge are pretty good and cost less--a good alternative. Koni, also expensivo.

    Stay away from KYB and cheap American stuff.

    If you have 100K on original shocks, you definitely need them. Most shocks are tired on any car at 80K.

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  • esommeresommer Posts: 24
    Just replaced rotors, calipers, rubber lines and fluid on our 83' 242T that we are restoring. Although we have followed the brake bleeding procedure in the manual, we still are unable to build up a solid brake pedal. It goes right to the floor. Any thoughts on what we may be doing wrong? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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