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Comments
The starter spins the engine and the engine acts like it is starting but will make that "Knuckle on the glass" noise and not ever start running. It will do that a second or even third time. Then on the 3rd or 4th try it will start, but it is rough for a few seconds and I can smell gas. Again it seems to only do it when it has been sitting for a while. May not do that again for months. I'm reasonably sure the throttle was not touched during the starting procedure. The computer does not record any failure.
This has nothing to do with the actual starting, but every once in a , before the engine is completely warmed up, it seems to be extremely sensitive to throttle input. It is jerky. Let off on the throttle and the car nose dives instead of being smooth. Give it throttle and it JERKS the front end up. Reminds me of manual transmissions of days gone by. When it gets to operating temperature everything works as it should. Again nothing is recorded on the computer.
Our 03 CR-V occasionally has dead spots in the throttle when warming up. On an uphill grade, at a constant speed, a little pressure on the throttle seems to be ignored by the engine. Throttle may have to be pressed enough to downshift before any acceleration is achieved. Then everything works as it should. Nothing is recorded. This hasn't happened in several months now.
I'm thinking that with all the stuff the computer and sensors have to keep up with, I can live with the occasional glitch. :shades:
Kip
Post # 1321 under Discussion title " Honda Pilot 2006",(by calg):
This noise happens first thing in the morning with our 2006 Pilot only when it is very cold outside... usually below zero. It also happened when we had our 2003 Pilot. I have no idea what it is, but it has never caused us any problems. We had 60,000 miles on our 03 when we traded it and now have nearly 30,000 on our 06. I remember asking a friend who has an 04 and she said hers did it as well. Hope this helps.
But I did happen to remember that you can hear a noise when you press the brake. It comes from the area of the steering column and it is the mechanism that releases the gear shift when the brake is depressed. The only time I ever seem to hear it is in the mornings when I start up in the garage ( place my foot on the brake when starting), unless I specifically listen for it another time.
Try placing it in park with the key on but the motor off and slowly press the brake pedal on and off and listen for it.
....just a thought
Wondering why you would be punching the accelerator on "a brand new 07 Pilot"! :confuse:
Kip
You will also need to do an ILP and probably reset the drivers window "AUTO" feature.
See post #202 of the "Pilot Real World MPG" forum.
Kip
So it sounds like mine and yours are the same.
It's better than nothing, but not much better.
I can't begin to express how disappointed I ma in my Pilot.
I've had it for 6 months and it's been in the shop 10 times and STILL has the vibration defect and now it's started with the infamous leak on the floorboards.
I am SOOOOO sorry I did not buy the Highlander, but I'm stuck now.
Tim
I recommend you take it in to dealer for evaluation.
Good luck.
we start off in high, then turn it down to low, then sometimes off when inside temp warms up
Chicago, IL
Looks like I have a problem that should be checked out. The feature works but should apparently be putting out more heat.
During the warranty period, dealers' approach is that problems are with the owners (being unreasonably fussy) and not with the vehicles themselves. That noise is normal. That smell is normal. That's the way whatever it is is supposed to be. Your awful gas mileage is because of the way you drive.
After the warranty period, dealers' approach is to find (and charge you to repair) problems you did not even know you had, while of course acknowledging (and charging you to troubleshoot) each and every concern you now bring to their attention.
I have not really tested completely the heated-seat on the driver side yet. I started it as LOW and I did not really feel much of the heat coming from the back and the bottom. I will try it again to make sure the heated seat works on both driver and passenger sides.
http://www.autowesthondaroseville.com/index.cfm?action=service
davidd3, "Honda Accord (2003-2006) Maintenance & Repair" #2225, 7 Mar 2007 2:40 pm#2224
Also see: MM revised (#2264)
Dark oil Myth (#2261)
2006- Accord first oil change(#2260)
After the warranty period, dealers' approach is to find (and charge you to repair) problems you did not even know you had, while of course acknowledging (and charging you to troubleshoot) each and every concern you now bring to their attention.
This is a partial from Post 209 of the Pilot Real World MPG forum a while back.
Kip,
....If I may be trustworthy to a fault, you seem to be at the opposite end of the spectrum. I have no reason not to trust my dealership....
Actually our discussions started around post 203 of that forum. Remember the fun we had over whether or not the ILP had been done and whether or not to trust the dealer, especially on things that could not be verified?
Kip
I do remember that.
Different issue there. Dealer trust in the context of dealer prep. There, if the items are checked off on the list (such as ILP), I trust that the work was done even though I have no way to verify it.
Issue here is dealer trust in the context of handling customer complaints during warranty period. Here I think that dealers try to avoid doing some work.
My impression is that you distrust dealers in all situations. My distrust for dealers is much more limited. They are local businesses relying on repeat business from customers. They cannot screw their customers every which way and still stay in business.
Regards,
David
Why would I trust him to always do things I can't verify when I'm not paying anything, and not trust him under warranty situations or when I'm having to pay direct.
Under warranty I tell the dealer my gas mileage is bad. He tells me it is normal for my type driving, or I should wait 3 years until it is broken in or whatever....Now the warranty period is over and I tell him my mileage is bad. He will be glad to charge me for diagnostic work, tune ups and so forth. Then I tell him again my mileage is bad. He tells me it is normal for my type of driving! :sick:
They cannot screw their customers every which way and still stay in business.
You have basically said they are screwing us by saying a warranty concern is not a problem. Then again when they say the same concern is a problem once the warranty period is over. I agree! They are screwing us in the service department when they can!
So if they will screw us with something we can openly see, hear, feel, and smell, why wouldn't they take short cuts behind the scenes? Such as in the "Get Ready" area.
My impression is that you distrust dealers in all situations.
We agree again! I firmly believe the dealer will take as much money from us as we are willing to give him. From the time we drive onto his lot anticipating a purchase until we trade that purchase on another, then another, then another.. Then the cycle starts all over again.
Do you honestly believe the dealer is going to offer you the very best deal possible when you start a trade?
Or do you think he will attempt to sell you the car for as much as possible while offering you the least possible for your trade, if you don't know any better?.
I'll bet a dollar to a donut that you don't take the first offer the dealer makes! If that is true, you don't really trust that dealer any more than I do!
I thought we were finally on the same page. Guess not!
You get the last word!
Kip
Do you honestly believe the dealer is going to offer you the very best deal possible when you start a trade?
Or do you think he will attempt to sell you the car for as much as possible while offering you the least possible for your trade, if you don't know any better?.
I'll bet a dollar to a donut that you don't take the first offer the dealer makes! If that is true, you don't really trust that dealer any more than I do!
Neither does the dealer accept the first offer the customer makes. It's just a negotiation. Dealers want to sell high and customers want to buy low. Local competition, supply and demand, applicable incentives, and the customer's intelligence and preparedness for the negotiation, all come into play. A high first offer from a dealer should come as no surprise and should not be a basis for loss of trust. To the contrary, I respect that they are selling cars to make money. And dare I say it, there's nothing wrong with that. The killing they make on people who pay MSRP because they do not know the price is negotiable will be offset by the slim margin they make on people who have done their homework and are strong negotiators playing dealers off against each other to reach the bottom line.
I do not see what possible motivation dealers would have to cheat or skimp on dealer prep (say that they did it when they didn't do it), since any problems resulting from what they neglected to do will adversely affect Honda's reliability ratings and result in more customers returning to the dealership for the very work they wish to avoid (warranty claims). This is where we strongly disagree.
you could have a defective filler tube (from the neck to the tank), or a vent solenoid, or vent line from the tank.
since it is a 2004, is it still under warranty? even if not, i would take to Honda dealership and insist it is picked up by Honda. i believe it to be part of the emissions system. anyway, see if they will goodwill repair it.
Our chevy van was doing the same thing. Had to run the pump at lowest possible speed or it would shut off every few seconds. Turned out to be a kinked vent hose on top of the tank. Found it when we replaced the fuel pump.
Kip
Moreover, while I am not sure of it, I believe that it could be a legal issue (compliance with motor vehicle laws and/or safety regulations) for dealers not to perform dealer prep.
When they reject a warranty claim, it can be justifiable because the determination of validity of the claim is often subjective. My car makes a noise - normal or not normal. My car has an odor - normal or not normal. My heated seats are not hot enough. These are fuzzy situations where something is not necessarily wrong with the car, unlike the situation where your 6-month old car broke down and had to be towed to the dealer.
Now you have started over again with the "Moreover".
Therefore I respond.
Unusual noises such as rattles and squeaks are not are not normal. Odors of mildew and antifreeze are not normal. Water coming into the cabin are not normal.
"Fuzzy situations"? Possibly to someone that has 100% faith in the dealer. Not to me!
You choose to believe the dealer and his various departments are absolutely honest because he is a local business man, blah, blah blah...
Good for you!
BTW, You say negotiation is done when buying a new car. Yeah, I agree. The customer is desperately attempting to keep from being ripped a "new one" and the dealer is desperately trying to "RIP"!
Have a wonderful day. I have to go to work. :sick:
Kip
I can only defend dealers for so long and then I'm done.
One more thing. My windowashers are not functioning now, wonder if the dealer is going to tell me that it's a "characteristic" of the Pilot.
I'm fairly neutral on the Pilot. Nothing to rave about. Only a few things to complain about. Overall I think it has a rather cheap feel for a $35,000 vehicle. For instance, it drives me nuts that the steering wheel controls are not illuminated and that the channel changer goes in only one direction (they are illuminated and more fully featured in my $25,000 lower trim line Accord). The third row isn't even leather in the EXL. Driver's left foot rest is short and uncomfortable. Etc.
The issue here is not the dealer, it is the manufacturer. Why does the Pilot have so many problems? If if were a better car, you wouldn't have to go to the dealer 10 times for the same problem.
Until Honda can make perfect cars, things would be a lot better if Honda manufacturer would instruct Honda dealers to give customers the benefit of the doubt on warranty claims, and pay Honda dealers more for doing warranty work so that they do not find warranty work to be unattractive as compared to work for which they can charge customers.
This is true! The third row seat is some type of synthetic.
Salesman said it is because that seat is likely to be used by kids that may spill stuff and it is easier to clean from the "Fake" leather!
That's what he said!
Kip
Also, what they said about the third row (used for kids, susceptible to spills and stains) is almost as applicable to the middle row. What's next, no leather there too?