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Nissan Quest 2004+

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Comments

  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    Congrats on your new Quest!
    Did you decide to change the oil at 1300 miles based on your experience or some other guidelines? I was planning to have my first oil change done at 3000 or 3750 miles.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Sounds just like us. 4 weeks and 1600mi.

    Black 05 SE.

    I think the manual states that the mirrors operate the way you described. That is how ours works as well.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Congrats Bill. We're still waiting for ours. Did you do the oil change yourself? Was the filter easy to reach? Thanks.
  • bmisbmis Member Posts: 14
    Sounds great billncat. We still love our 04 SE as well.

    The mirrors...working exactly as designed. Only the one 'selected' tilts down. :shades:
  • minivanfanminivanfan Member Posts: 5
    We recently purchased a 2005 Nissan Quest 3.5S and we've been really happy as well. It seems that people who purchase the Quest love it and people that don't like the Quest hate it. There doesn't seem to be any middle ground. So far we haven't had any problems other than an intermittent rattle in the sliding doors. We also purchased the power package which isn't standard on the 3.5S in Canada. I would also recommend installing a bug deflector on your Quest if you haven't done so already. In the 3 days that I have had it installed, it's saved my hood from about 30-50 bug splats
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Also added aluminum wheels and roof rack as standard equipment. Price is up just a few hundred bucks, well worth it. They also added a base model, just called 3.5, which is a couple hundred less than the 04 S used to go for. Truth be told, I wish I'd waited a couple months for an 05, for the additional features, and they added the color black, which I think it pretty "slimming" for the beast. Still fond of my silver bullet, and do not like power doors. And I got a really great deal on one of the last remaining, slow-selling 04s. It was a late build also, so there are no quality issues. I suppose it worked out for the best. :)
  • billncatbillncat Member Posts: 16
    The oil change was a breeze. Passenger side, pull back the plastic wheel well area and the filter is right there. The oil pan drain bolt is slightly farther back. You will see the oil pan and be able to find the bolt.

    I made a bit of a mess the first time. It was windy here in FL and the newspaper was blowing all around (did this in the drive). Some oil missed the pan and got all over the drive.

    Other than that, the change took about 15 minutes. Real easy.

    One thing I DO hate on this vehicle. The engine oil dipstick. It is impossible to read...at least mine is. I must have checked the oil 15 times and still not sure if the level is correct. I did put 4 1/4 quarts in. I could be slightly over but not enough to hurt anything. I know I am not under filled. I have changed oil myself on all of my vehicles over the years. Never, ever had so much trouble reading a dipstick :cry: :mad:
  • vonbill3vonbill3 Member Posts: 20
    I agree. Reading the dip stick from a hot engine is a lot of trouble. Our local radio talk show expert recommends reading the dip stick when engine is cold. He recommends obtaining a reference point on the dip stick right after an oil change when the appropriate 4 1/4 quarts have been added and when the engine is cold.
    My experince is that this solves the problem. I usually make my checks in the morning when the engine has all night to cool.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    I thought you could not change your own oil during warranty period because you need the mechanic’s stamp in your maintenance book. In the event of warranty work that is related to oil changes (engine failure I guess) I think they check to see if you have the records proving you’ve had all the required oil changes from a mechanic.

    Or I could be wrong.
  • plashenickplashenick Member Posts: 165
    For those considering action keep a few things in mind:

    1) I have never heard of a positive consumer outcome to BBB. better to get a lawyer who works for you. Check your local laws. You can find a lawyer who only gets paid (by the manufacturer) if you win.

    2) When we went through it things like rattles are considered an annoyance, not a safety issue. Your only recourse is if the Manufacturer refuses to repair, then it is a violation of Magnuson (sp?) which covers Warranties and adherence to such.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Thanks! That's good to know. Did you have to drive it up ramps, or simply crawl underneath? Also, where can you get Mobil1 0W40, any auto part store? Thanks!
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    I experienced the same (tried about 5 times and couldn't tell).Waited about an hour in the garage after drive but still not much difference.
    My garage space doesn't allow me and my wife to park both vehicles at the same time so my van is parked outside on the driveway which is moderately sloped.
    Measuring oil level is going to be a hassle for me.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    If you plan on keeping a vehicle 10 years, change the fluids shortly after 1000miles. There are higher levels of all metals in the factory fill oil. Better to get rid of this ASAP but after a period of time where the most of this new engine wear takes place.

    This is traditional advice but is not recommended by most manufacturers.

    I've had oil analysis done on our Ford van (159K miles) and Subaru (157K) and there is no evidence of the additive package being exhausted, excess contaminents building up, or significant viscosity changes after over 7,000 miles with regular oil.

    We're using Mobil One with a Purolator Pure One filter as they were out of Mobil One filters the day we came in. We will change oil and filter every 7,500 miles per the manufacturer's recommendation.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    In previous vehicles I’ve following the manufacturer’s recommended schedule (going almost 10K in an Accord).

    But this time I think I’ll change earlier.

    The manufacturer’s recommended schedule is not always the ideal. This schedule is influenced not only by the engineers, but by the marking/sales division.

    What immediately comes to mind is the Toyota sludge problem and the VW 1.8T problem. Where after the fact they state that you must use the lower mileage change interval…or use synthetic.

    I’ve talked to my brother who is an engineer and he tells me that synthetic is not necessary for ordinary autos; that most “regular” oils contain synthetic properties and additives and the majority of synthetic oils are just a waste of money. There were only a few exceptions of “real” synthetics and they were much more costly; don’t remember which ones. He tells me that unless you have a turbo or the engine is designed to run “really” hot that you won’t gain any benefits from the synthetic…it was technical and I just “uh huh”’d along with the conversation.

    I don’t run high rpm’s in my van (usually) and don’t tow, but I do live where it’s hot and usually dusty so I’ll probably use a shorter interval (so I can get a new clean filter on there) with an oil that has a higher viscosity rating (range).

    But I guess if it’s working for you…no point messing with success. ;)
  • minivanfanminivanfan Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone purchased a dash kit for their Nissan Quest? Or have pictures of someone who has.

    I am thinking of getting a dash kit but I would like to see what it would look like first.

    This is what I am talking about when I say dashkit:

    http://www.wooddashexperts.com/customer/product.php?productid=35337&cat=777&page=1
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    I’ve talked to my brother who is an engineer and he tells me that synthetic is not necessary for ordinary autos; that most “regular” oils contain synthetic properties and additives and the majority of synthetic oils are just a waste of money.

    What he says is true. There was a lawsuit concerning the definition of "Synthetic" oils. As I recall it was brought by Mobil against Castrol, who was marketing a "Synthetic Blend." As a result, the term Synthetic is nearly meaningless.

    The SAE service standards have continued to improve, and there are very few cars on the market that require synthetic. As someone said, "Using synthetic simply creates very high quality waste oil." But I'll have to wait another 90,000 miles or so before we have any data supporting this, or not. The 05 Quest and a 05 Accord V6 are the first vehicles we've purchased that will use synthetic exclusively.
  • billncatbillncat Member Posts: 16
    0w-40 is obtainable @ Wally World (Walmart) and most auto parts stores. only 4.78 per quart. I can't find it in Gallon size.
  • billncatbillncat Member Posts: 16
    I think you misunderstood my point.....or, I am not understanding your post.

    The break in oil/factory fill has a lot of contaminates in it from the inital engine break-in. Do an oil test on it and you will find much higher amounts of Alum, etc..... That's why it's best to get it out shortly after 1000 miles.

    I fully agree that good dino oil will last 7500...but not all of them. Dino oils do not give some of the other benes of synthetic and that's why I used Mobil 1.
  • billncatbillncat Member Posts: 16
    I don't totally agree with your brother. Go to www.bobistheoilguy.com. There are plenty of engineers, etc...that participate in that forum. My uncle works for Ashland (Valvoline) oil. His IQ is outa sight. He plays bridge with Omar Shariff. This guy knows his industry like very few. He agrees with most of the info found on the oil site above.
  • garandmangarandman Member Posts: 524
    From the 2004 Quest Prices Paid forum:

    Does anyone who is currently driving a Quest have a complaint about the instrument panel? Does it's placement bother you when driving? This is the only reason I would decide not to buy one. I will want the redesigned panel when it comes out, it just looks wrong to me the way it is. Maybe leasing one until the redesign comes out and then buying is the way to go for me, I don't know, anyone have a comment?

    We use a Quest as a company car, and I also use it sometimes with my family. We have an 05 with 8,500 miles on it.

    Four different people drive it regularly. On average they report getting used to the center dash pod, "In about five minutes."

    It depends upon your attitude towards change, and towards technology. Some people are late technology adopters, hate change, and won't even set foot in a Quest. They were unlikely to buy one, anyway. Others like it. Others are indifferent, but like the clean look in front of the driver. New Mini owners don't spend a lot of time carping about their central dash pods.

    Friday I spent the day traveling with a wealthy entreprenuer that was about to buy a 50,000 Land Rover to replace their Chevy Tahoe as a family hauler. He was really impressed with the design of the vehicle, and especially the performance. When we accelerated up an uphill highway ramp and it pushed him back in his seat (I was showing off) he said, "Wow!"

    He is not bothered by the central dashpod. In addition to a Mini, they also own a BMW Z8, a hand-crafted roadster that also has a central dash pod. They were going to a dealer this weekend to look at an SE with Leather, sunroofs, and nav.

    You can wait for the 2007 but you'll likely lose the $2,000 rebate currently available. A one year lease is not going to make economic sense. If you can't live with the current design, cough up the extra $2-4,000 that a Honda will cost and live with the styling and [apparently] lower gas mileage.

    I use a Garmin 2610 portable GPS that has giant digital numbers right in front of you - $800.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Thanks Bill. I asked this question before, but could you tell me if you need to drive the Quest up a ramp in order to reach the oil filter and drain plug? Thanks.
  • strstr Member Posts: 64
    Thanks for the advice. The dealer at the Nissan lot said the same thing about getting used to the pod quickly. His wife drives one and they like the van very much.

    I would not lease for one year I would do a two to three year lease and then get the redesigned panel but who knows what the redesign will look like? I may not even like it.

    I have no problem with change, we have traded every two years since 1999 and haven't had the same style car twice, I like to mix it up. I am only concerned with how safe it would be to have all the gauges placed out of the line of view especially since I travel to work daily with both of my very young children and are already distracting enough.

    I like the body style and interior style of the Quest, it is my first choice in vans right now.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    I'm having trouble securing one of our car seats without the latch system in the 2nd row chairs. Both of the 2nd row chairs' belt latchs have an odd angel (where you snap it in place). They don't tilt backwards enough. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? Looks like we're gonna have to buy a new car seat with the latch system. One question on booster seat--none of them come with the latch system, so there's no way to secure them to the seat. Won't they slide and roll with the child in it? That just seems like a bad design. Does anybody have any experiences with these booster seats?
  • eyeblindeyeblind Member Posts: 156
    If you go to the "nissanusa" website you can click on a link to child safety. Nissan has a program called " Snug Kids." They have worked with the
    manufactures of car seats and list car seats that best fit each Nissan model.
    You can click on the Quest and it will give you a list of booster, rear facing,
    and forward facing car seats that best fit the Quest. I purchased my car
    seats based on this list. I hope this helps
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Thanks!
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    We have two booster seats in the second row and just use the seat belts (no latch). We use a towel underneath both so we don’t damage the leather. No sliding around while they’re in it.

    Having the seat “loose” makes it easier to rearrange their seating to the back row, or to move to another vehicle.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    I was fine with that. I'm just not sure if it's safe because normally you need to secure the car seat itself separately.
  • peppermanpepperman Member Posts: 9
    I've been reading alot of the posts here, and thought I'd weigh in on a few of the recurring topics.

    We bought our '04 Quest last summer, and from the very start were disappointed with the cooling of the a/c. Tepid, at best, when outside temps were above 80 degrees. Not what I'd have expected from a new car I'd just spent ~ $25K on. We never experienced the "hot air out the floor vents" problem, just that the air blowing out the vents was not anywhere close to cool enough. We live in Texas, and the summers can be unbearably warm. A/C is not an option for us with small children.

    Anyway, we brought the thing back in probably 4 times through the end of the summer and into fall. Each time we were told (courteously!) something different: the system was low on freon but no leaks were detected; the system was cooling to specs but that the cubic feet in the van just took longer to cool off; that everything checked out, but that they'd put dye into the system to see if the thing were leaking; that the new freon didn't cool as well, etc. etc. (sigh) We were growing more frustrated by the day. Oddly enough, I'd also on occasion hear a faint "beep" while driving when the a/c was turned on. There were no associated lights with the sound, nor were the beeps the "normal" louder ones that you hear with the auto doors, etc. It was very soft, and seemed to occur consistently when I accelerated past about 42 mph, and sometimes at speeds into the 60s, but never when the a/c was off. Ordinarily just one beep. Strange, huh? Anyway, soon enough the cooler fall/winter rolled around, and the lack of cooling became less of an issue.

    Well, spring/summer comes this year, and we quickly discovered that our nemesis, the faulty a/c, had returned. By this time, I had immediately returned to my previous level of aggravation, and was at my wit's end. I was due for an oil change, etc., so I called 800-nissan1 (or whatever the number is) and quizzed them about the a/c in advance. They were very nice, and advised me to take the van in, and while it was still in the shop, to call them back with the case number they assigned to my complaint. They would then contact some regional supervisor or other such person, who would in turn call the dealership and "consult" with them. Seemed like smoke being blown up my skirt, but I followed their directions anyway. When I brought it in to the dealership's shop, I went a little on the offensive, telling them that I just didn't believe that this level of cooling met ANY person's (quality control's) reasonable definition of functional air conditioning. Circulation was not a problem, I continued, but the temperature of the air coming out of the vents was. I wanted them to know that their opportunities to satisfy THIS customer were quickly running out, and that I had heard all their bunk before and was not buying it. I think I even said something like if this time didn't get it, I was about to start raising hell with Nissan b/c I could get no satisfaction from the dealer.

    I'm happy to report that the goofy thing finally is cooling. The invoice said something like a lower ______ was loose (I will try to find the exact wording they used and re-post it later). Don't know why they couldn't fix it before, but my patience finally paid off, and they thankfully got it fixed. Funny thing is, the faint beep also stopped. Could it have been a warning of some sort for a freon leak??? Go figure.

    We also experienced the extremely sluggish starts on random occasion--almost like the silly thing was starting off in a higher gear. After you get up to speed, you're fine, but no passing downshift, and no shifting to get up to highway speed. I guess it resets itself after killing and restarting the engine. They could not duplicate the problem, but told me to leave it running and bring it in the next time it happened. Not a far drive if I'm in town, so I plan on doing it.

    They also repaired an annoying 3rd seat rattle (didn't know that was the problem until I saw the TSB on it).

    Overall, we really love the van, the smooth ride, etc. We just felt like we were getting duck-bitten to death (except for a/c which WAS a major deal) with several little things wrong. If they can work out the kinks for 2005, I would even recommend it.

    One more thought. We added an aftermarket DVD player in the ceiling. Worked great except alot of interference when the radio/cd player was on. We hadn't noticed it because the audio is through wireless headphones, and our kiddos hadn't told us (could they have missed it???). Circuit City was going to pull the thing out to send it in for diagnosis. I just happened to be monkeying with the radio one day before we took it in for removal, and I turned off the "rear controls" for the radio. Immediately the interference through the headphones disappeared. We decided to leave the rear control off permanently, and now everyone is happy.

    One last thing: the "pod o' control" does take a little getting used to, and the speedometer, etc. also being in the middle is weird at first. One quickly grows accustomed to it, however, so don't let that alone influence your decision.

    I'll duplicate this post on the competing thread as well (like you wanted to know that!)
  • birdobirdo Member Posts: 5
    We have had our Quest for about 1 week and we love it so far. Had to part with my 300M Special but with a growing family and the Quest SE, it was a little easier.

    We are sill learning the buttons and levers in this minivan. It will take some time. The kids love the DVD player.

    Hope to learn some things with this board. :)
  • birdobirdo Member Posts: 5
    You might want to check online before spending via the dealer. Here is a link I found. I assume they are the same from the factory:

    Head Phones for Quest
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    Thanks for the informative report pepper. Glad to know it was a happy ending. Here in the Northwest, we don't have much use for AC ( I'm still using the fireplace :( ), but I'll keep an eye on it.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Fireplace sounds nice…better than your shirt sticking to your back.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    It'd be nice to actually have some summer-like days in summer, although I can't say I miss the Texas heat :)
  • squestsquest Member Posts: 25
    There is a TSB out on the sluggish starts. When this happens the transmission is in the "fail safe" mode. It is actually locked in third gear. Turning the motor off, and back on will fix it. I have had it happen once in 15,000 miles. Since the pan must be dropped on the transmission to replace the faulty part, I am waiting awhile to fix it. This happens only on the 2004 Quest SL with the 4 speed automatic I believe.
  • peppermanpepperman Member Posts: 9
    Yes, I saw that. I even printed it up and brought it in to them thinking that it might be the problem. I'm convinced it is, but will have to wait for them to witness it firsthand for them to do anything about it. Now then, if they have to drop the transmission pan to get at it, I may join you in your wait to fix it. No sense in "borrowing trouble" as my grandpappy used to say. Thanks for the heads up.
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    I did a couple of really stupid things today.

    First, I wear glasses with clip-on sunglasses that are specifically designed for my frame. I placed them on the steering wheel column momentarily when the clip-on slid and fell through the gap between the column and the dash. Has any one tried to access the area I'm describing?

    Second, came back home parked the van in the garage my mind just fixated on how to retrieve the clip-on, and I activated the rear lift door to take library books out. The door hit the bottom of the garage door and now about 2 inch strip of paint peeled off.

    Well, not sure what I'm going to do about it at this point, just bummed out. My van is less than two months old :cry:
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Lift door…I installed a Styrofoam piece at the front of my garage that my wife can tap so she knows she’s in far enough (far enough to open the lift).

    My wife was coming home one day and the kids ran out to see her. They proceeded to climb into the driver’s seat and pushed the driver’s door against the wall…wham! Luckily I also placed a long strip of Styrofoam along the wall where the car door would contact it. I also placed a long strip of Styrofoam along the garage entry door to the house, incase the van is parked to close to the entry door and it swings inwards…it won’t hit the van.

    Too bad the rear lift door couldn’t slide into the roof…almost the way your garage door opens in sections…might be dumb though.

    Maybe I’ll put Styrofoam strips on the inside of my garage door…so if the rear lift gate does hit it, it’ll have a chance to reverse without crunching the paint.

    I guess we can learn by your mistakes; to much consolation though.
  • peppermanpepperman Member Posts: 9
    Sopecreek

    You might try taking apart the steering column cover (it comes apart like a clam shell if it is like my '95 Camry, which it looks very similar to). Loosen the screws with a phillips head (or other appropriate screw driver attachment) from the bottom. The top and bottom come apart and out drops your clip on. Tricky part is fitting the two back together afterward--but it can be done! Clip on might have fallen further down behind the dash cover panel, but it can be fished out from there, either from the top or up from the floor board area.

    As for the paint scratch, take heart. My wife has backed into our half-closed garage door and torn the brake light off (got it repaired at the dealership). What she doesn't know, b/c she is too short to see, is that she also scratched paint off the roof around the brake light--I dont' have the heart to tell her. She has also raised the hatch door into the garage door, much like you did, and scratched the back. I told her that I did it so that she wouldn't feel so bad. Life's short. Don't worry about it. The dealer could fix you up with some touch up paint, or spend $200 at your local body shop to have it repainted professionally.

    Kind of makes your stomach hurt at first, but after a few weeks you'll get nice and used to it! ;)
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    Pepperman,
    Thanks for the advice and kind words.
    I did loosen those screws (three of them) from the bottom. But those clam shells are tightly shut. I forced them a while but eventually chickened out fearing I could possibly break something (that would make it three in a day.) Called the dealer service dept, they told me to come in tomorrow morning. I'll try again in the morning but as you said putting them back may be difficult... I just want my :shades: back.
  • sopecreeksopecreek Member Posts: 203
    I was able to pry them open with screwdriver from the front. They opened up slowly but without any drama. Putting them back was also fairly easy.
    I wouldn't have tried it without Pepperman's advice. So thank you Pepperman!
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    "I told her that I did it so that she wouldn't feel so bad."

    Man, what a sweet husband you're! I probably would've yelled at my wife ;) The van barely fits in our garage. I fear the same is gonna happen to us sooner or later. Our younger kid, almost 2, loves to poke at the buttons and knobs in the van, I fear she would inevitably find the one for the power hatch and push it. Either that, or our minds drift off and we accidentally mistaken the hatch button for the side door... But for now, we'll enjoy the NEW van :shades: Sorry sopecreek, didn't mean to make you feel bad :blush:
  • ahightowerahightower Member Posts: 539
    Stick a pice of foam pipe insulation on the lower edge of the garage door, so you can open the rear hatch without scratching.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Yes, also with pieces (so the door can bend) along the inside of the door; in case the rear hatch scrapes a closed garage door.

    Will have Styrofoam surrounding everything…
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    I may have a problem…sort of.

    I’ve noticed that my mileage, as displayed by the on board comp, does not even average the city EPA mpg.

    For the first tank of gas it seemed fine 17.4, then again a 17.4, then an 18 etc. I expected more, but realized that we have a huge (not so mini) van with a powerful V6 engine.

    I noticed that we’re putting on a lot of miles 2100 so far (purchased mothers day) but are not stopping for fuel frequently.

    Today I filled up. I noticed the comp reading out 16.9 mpg. I added 16.2 gallons of fuel and according to the trip comp went 415 miles. This is NOT 16.9 mpg but 25.6 mpg; not even close.

    The tank is 20 gallons and the fuel indicator showed empty, the trip comp displayed an * for the DTE, so naturally I got to a gas station as soon as I could.

    Think I’ll go for an early oil change and get them to check this out.
  • gonzasgonzas Member Posts: 2
    Ivan_99. I'm experiencing the same exact "issue" with the fuel mileage as you are. my tank also reads empty with about 4 gallons left. I had thought about mentioning it next service, but I'm not all too pleased with the dealerships service dept here. If you can post your results when you take it in, it would be appreciated. For the time being i'll consider the 4 gallons a big cusion :P
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    We've only refueled once so far. But the trip computer always stays around 19.2 mpg. I can't wait to see what real mpg we get for this 2nd tank...
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    In order to get a "accurate" reading, you have to reset the computer at each refill. Even then the computer will be off. Best way to keep track of mileage is by pen and pad.

    My tank also reads empty with about 3-4 gallons of gas in it. I too just thought of it as a cushion. Let us know what they say.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Member Posts: 1,681
    Yes, I reset the mpg comp and trip comp settings after each fill-up.

    I used to do pen and paper with mileage but figured the comp would know exactly how much fuel it used and how far it had driven…since fuel injection is pretty precise.

    Knowing that the mpg comp is not accurate delegates it to the 60’s Star Trek blinking lights; kinda looks neat the first time but quickly turns out to be a waste of money and space.

    tamu2002 – my comp read EXACTLY the same for the first two tanks 17.4 (with resetting). I found this odd but didn’t think much at the time.
  • billncatbillncat Member Posts: 16
    No, I didn't use a ramp. Just make sure you have plenty of newspaper down for the first time.
  • tamu2002tamu2002 Member Posts: 758
    No more driving up the ramps? Sweet! ...Judging from the ground clearance, can you really squeeze underneath the van?
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