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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • northernminorthernmi Member Posts: 8
    My speedometer on my 03 silverado is pegged at 120mph
    sometimes it drops down to 60mph. but once I go over 60mph
    it will stay stuck at 120mph.
    By turning the truck on and off several (like 20 times) it will go back to zero (I won't do that again, how much for a new starter $$$$???)
    I took the dash apart (very simple) there are 4 screws that hold the entire instrument cluster together.
    I plan on getting is fixed at a local shop and reinstalling it myself, but Im wondering is there anything
    else that may be causing this problem like the speed sensor, magnets , short , ANYTHING!!!
    Any input will be greatly appreciated.
    NORTHERN
  • northernminorthernmi Member Posts: 8
    What did you eventualy do??
    same problem on mine.
    The instrument cluster is very easy to remove
    the entire frame around it pops off and the cluster is held on with 4 screws. Took less than 5 minutes to remove it. NOw I plan on taking it to a local shop for repair and installing it myself. sure not paying $200 for labor
    they always try to rape us for $$$$.
  • northernminorthernmi Member Posts: 8
    Check distributor cap for corrosion?
    did you check for spark on all 6 wires or at coil?
    Mine would not start I had spark, I removed the distributor
    it was corroded and had water in it replaced cap and rotor
    runs fine
  • northernminorthernmi Member Posts: 8
    The exact same thing happened to my 03 silverado
    I paid to get it fixed $235 for a new cap and rotor.
    4 months latter I got a recall letter .
    sent in my reciept got my money back, they wanted me to take my truck in for the recall,
    they again replaced cap and rotor then put the foam insulation pad on my A/C hose.
    problem fixed .
    If you have the reciept you should get $$ back.
  • jmust99jmust99 Member Posts: 1
    I had my 02 Chevy to the dealer for a bad tapping noise from the drivers side of the truck when you first start it up, first they said it was maybe a crack in the block, then a crack in the head finally they told me I had antifreeze in the oil from a warped head, I had the heads machined, spark plugs changed oil changed and everything was ok for a week, now the problem is back not really sure what to do or if I am being told the truth, I had previously had it in for the "piston slap", which they told me was carbon build up and GM doesn't recommend fixing it because it doesn't cause any damage
  • johnben44johnben44 Member Posts: 2
    I have a "04 Silverado and recently it started to slip when I start out. The engine revs up about 100 rpm and then the trans "catches" It happens about once or twice a week. Have had the fluid changed and problem continues. I also have pulled a boat about 20 times for about 200 miles since I got the truck. Anyone else have similar problems???
  • jman3670jman3670 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 04' silverado. with 22000 miles the truck started to miss, and the check engine came on. truck still under GM's "two year bumper to bumper the entire vehicle is covered" as it states on gms website. service advisor advises me that the problem is contamination from bad fuel, not covered under warranty. They did a 50/50 split gm paid for the parts I paid for the labor. Asked the service advisor, service manager, and general manager of service, how does contamination get past the factory installed fuel filter? The reply is " I can't explain that". when asked what kind of contamination the reply is a defensive " how am i suppose to know." I feel this should be covered under warranty, but they state bad fuel not covered. they replaced 6 of 8 injectors, fuel pump module which includes the filter flushed the system and charged me 7.9hrs of labor. They stated I could not get my truck back until I paid the bill. When I paid the bill I wrote on the invoice that I am only paying this to get my truck returned. I have spoken the the service manager and general manager about this with no results. I am going to try to speak with the owner, but if that does not work then I will go through chevy. I am currently disputing the charges through my credit card company, they have 30 days to reply after being notified. OH and my truck was returned with 1/3 of a tank and within a week the problem started again. What are your thoughts on this and has anyone else run into this problem. I do not trust the dealership, I feel like i'm getting screwed!
    thanks,
    jason
  • bob400bob400 Member Posts: 4
    Mine makes a similar sound, but only at 700 rpm and mostly when it is cold. Chevy inspected it and told me nothing was wrong with the transmission or the dirve train. Did you ever hear this noise at low RPM?
  • bob400bob400 Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2001 Silverado 1500 Z71 extended cab. The only thing I really don't like about it is that it sounds like a darn lumber truck. Any bump makes the rear extended cab doors rattle. I figure that it is probably more so because it is winter...but it is irritating as all heck.

    I sprayed the weather-strippng, which appears to be new. Also, it might be coming from the door panel itself, but it appears to be as tight as possible.

    Any suggestions?
  • bob400bob400 Member Posts: 4
    :surprise: My recently purchased 2001 Silverado has a humming, vibrating moan that almost sounds like the noise made when you have wet breaks.

    It is most prevalent at 700 rpm, and goes away (not completely) after it warms up.

    I took it in to the dealership where it has a certified warranty for another 2000 miles, and they blew smoke up my ars. They say they ran all diagnostics on the transmission and drive train that they could, and could not find nothing wrong. Despite the presence of the noise, they call it normal. How can it be normal? I have driven these for years, not my own, but at work. Does this mean that all of the Silverados/Tahoes and Suburbans that don't make this noise are normal? BS!

    It only happens in when in gear, and is most loud at a steady 700 RPM. I flushed the transmission, which helped at first, but not much. Now it is back after 500 miles.

    I just want to know if anyone knows anything about this, or if it may be a problem down the road. It is 62,000 miles. Anything helps! I want to get it in and fixed ASAP if there is something to worry about.
  • bob400bob400 Member Posts: 4
    What is the difference between a 1500 HD and a 2500?
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    JOHN...Your truck may need a PCM reflash. My 01
    did the out of gear bump once in a while.
    A PCM refash fixed it...........

    I have read about this on this forum before........
  • johnben44johnben44 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. Now Ijust have to find out what aPCM flash is?????
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Check to see if GM has a TSB on this issue - I know they did for the 1999 Silverado. I live in Houston and it does not get cold enough to cause the problem - but while in Colorado on a ski trip I had the door rattle problem. Months later I saw the TSB - but never bothered with getting it done.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    I am sure one of the guys will come up with the TSB # for ya. Like I posted it has been mentioned before.

    My 01 is gone now and don't have the paperwork........
  • northernminorthernmi Member Posts: 8
    Mine did the came thing so I took the door panel off and used a entire roll of two sided sticky foam padded tape on the inside of the door. Before I took it apart I tapped on it to see where the rattles and noise was coming from.
    so far this $3.00 fix has worked great.
  • steve80steve80 Member Posts: 4
    Same problem with my 2004 Silverado but was all covered under warranty. Dealer said they have been having a problem with the fuel lines rusting on the inside and plugging up the injectors. They changed my fuel lines and injectors and everything is fine now.
  • jheinen54jheinen54 Member Posts: 3
    I don't suppose you know where I could find that TSB? Do you know what the fix is for the windshield noise?
  • xbarinnkeeperxbarinnkeeper Member Posts: 1
    MY 1993 4X4 AUTO TRANS WILL SHIFT INTO REV, 1,2 BUT NOT 3 OR 4. I AM TOLD THIS IS A SAFETY FEATURE THAT ALLOWS YOU TO LIMP IT HOME. HOW DO I FIX THIS PROBLEM? :cry:
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    Found it post #4489

    GM TSB#04-08-48-003 Windsheild Reseal..........

    If you guys are looking for a TSB Go to the left of the
    page here and do a message search forums. Any posted
    problem or related TSB will come up to help ya.........

    BTW: Do you have a bug sheild? If so thats the problem.
  • jjtjjjtj Member Posts: 80
    This kind of sounds like what has happened to my 95 K3500 a couple of times. It's like the trans is stuck in 2nd gear. All I did was to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes or so, which clears the code out of the computer. Reconnect the battery & that cleared the problem. Not sure if this will fix your problem but it's an easy thing to try.
  • jman3670jman3670 Member Posts: 4
    steve80,
    Do you know if there is a recall on this? Can you provide the dealership name that you went to so I can call and ask them about it? thanks, jason
  • jman3670jman3670 Member Posts: 4
    I have not experienced this with a chevy but I had a similar problem on a Dodge with my ignition coil loosing contact at the plug. My truck would stall and start right back up, and it would also loose rpm at idle sometimes, but I never had the mushy brakes.
    jason
  • james2004james2004 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 chevy silverado 1500 crew and whenever I am driving between 65-70mph I get a loud humming noise and vibrating noise. Its not a high pitched noise it more like a roaring humming noise. I have 45,000 miles on the truck and it just starting doing this at about 43,000 miles. It sounds like it might be the rear end or the transmission, but I don't know. I also have a 6" lift kit and 33" tires on the truck so that might be causing some additional stress. If anyone knows anything please let me know. Thanks
  • freekydoggfreekydogg Member Posts: 1
    got the truck last night. me and to buds put a new cab on it. had to use old wiring harness and dash. everything works except the fuel injector. engine runs with starting fluid. but no feulto injectors. any suggestions??????? :cry:
  • monchichimonchichi Member Posts: 1
    the tranny on my 2000 5.3L 1500LS seems like it's slipping or stuttering when it should be down shifting, like when I'm going up a hill. It's not making any wierd noises, it just stutters until I bring up the rpms and it downshifts. The tranny works great any other time. Any ideas on things to check?

    thanks,
    -monchichi
  • steve80steve80 Member Posts: 4
    Jason,
    I`ll check with the dealer and get back to you .
    Steve80
  • gmctruckgmctruck Member Posts: 186
    Go to Carquest and get a roll of thin black double sided tape. Clean under the rubber strips on both sides of the windshield. Install the double sided tape on the underside of the rubber strip and press it down on the windshield.

    The TSB may say to use silicone, but the double sided tape works just as good and is easier to remove if you ever need a new windshield installed.
  • hardrockminehardrockmine Member Posts: 1
    I'm trying to get Chevy to pay to replace my inst cluster. GM customer service and my local Chevy service manager tell me its the only Silverado they've heard of with this problem. Started when it was still under warranty but it would only do it sometimes and not when I had it in the shop, so they wouldn't fix it then. Now tach is pegged on 6000+ and speedo reads low all the time. Dealer charged me $79 to tell me the speedo doesn't work! Wish I'd bought a Tundra!
  • sewerrat1sewerrat1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an '03 1500 Ext 2wd in the shop now for speedo pegging. GM says $105.00 to open the dash up and verify speedo cluster is bad. I already know this!!! Truck will be tied up for 4 days because outside repair shop is backlogged. I originally opened the dash trim and fished a small wire between trip meter reset hole and cluster and moved speedo needle back to zero, but that did'nt last. Seems it only happened when it was wet outside. Thought maybe a loose wire harness to trans, but dealer says the cluster is bad.
  • 2smallchevy2smallchevy Member Posts: 1
    OK I am new here so be kind, I am also a computer geek, not a mechanic so be extra kind!

    First of all I made a mistake when I bought my truck and didn't get the 8 cyl engine, now for many reasons I am stuck with my 6 for at least another year.

    When I bought the truck I had a trailer that was supposed to weigh 3900 Lbs, well within the 5100Lbs towing capacity of my truck. One day I weighed it and found it actually weighed 5600 Lbs with a regular load. I have since traded in that trailer and bought one that I have weighed at 4200 Lbs loaded.

    Now, when I am towing long distance after about 1 hr I start to have problems maintaining 65 Mph, the towing Speed limit in Fl. If I get behind someone doing 60 and I pull out to pass and I give it too much gas, it down shifts, which I expect, but at 65-67 it sounds like the engine is going to come out of the hood at 4500RPM, I then let off the gas to get it to drop a gear after I have passed and it won't up shift, I have to take my foot all of the way off the gas and then at about 60 it will shift. Now I have lost all of my momentum and the guy I just passed is cursing me.

    I also have this problem on over passes if I am around 65 and I give it a little gas to maintain speed.

    I am not so worried about the down shift as I am about not being able to get it back in the regular gear.

    Some have told me it is my transmission overheating and that a transmission cooler will solve the problem. Others have scared me and told me I have already cooked it.

    It is still under War. 27,000 miles on it.

    I know that this truck will never take me over a mountain but what can I do to help it in Florida.

    Also I have noticed that I have a ton of power when it is cold and as soon as it heats up it seems to dog even without the trailer.

    BTW I have a trip planned for this weekend so any thing I can do before then would be great!

    Sorry for the long post, I hope all of the info helps

    Thanks for any info you can get me.

    Signed : Trying not to smoke my truck havin fun.
    Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3 V6 ATX Reg cab Long Bed.
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Im assuming you replaced all the fluids and checked the engine to make sure it was getting compression. Then i would change the fuel filter and check the fuel pump. Should be pretty easy to figure out, but usually time consuming. Let us know how it goes.
  • steve80steve80 Member Posts: 4
    Jason,
    Checked with the dealer yesterday and was told it was not a recall , but they were told to check for the fuel line problem by GM. Hope this helps.
    Steve
  • dschrodschro Member Posts: 1
    I am in the wrong forum I think, but I'll try anyway. I'm Considering buying an '03 2500HD w/8.1 engine. I don't tow anything, but love the beefy look of the truck and the thought of the big motor. Am I stupid to buy an 8.1 for daily driving? I may get a boat in the near future, but that's it. I'm not real concerned about the MPG. If any of you have an 8.1, have you had any problems with the motor? I think the one I'm looking at is a Vortec.
  • rog49rog49 Member Posts: 1
    I, TOO, HAVE HAD THIS PROBLEM. STARTED WITH SPEEDO. THEY "REPAIRED" THE CLUSTER FOR $500+ AND NOW THE OIL PRESSURE AND FUEL GAUGES ARE READING HIGH. JUST TOOK IT BACK AND THEY REPLACED THE "CLUSTER" AGAIN AND IT HAS NOT CHANGED THE PROBLEM! DEALER TECH TELLS ME HE "CAN'T HELP ME".. THIS IN A 2003 WITH 109K MILES. CHEVY TECHS DON'T SEEM TO UNDERSTAND ELECTRONICS! ANYBODY HAD THIS PROBLEM AND GOTTEN IT SOLVED?
  • summitupsummitup Member Posts: 1
    I don't have an answer but I do share your frustration. I bought a very gently used (32,000 miles) 2001 2500 HD Duramax with the Allison transmission, to help out a friend. It was like a car/truck for me, nice soft ride, quiet engine, strong enough to pull a trailer or haul a load of grain if I had to but not for heavy work. I did not work it hard, put on some highway miles and took care of it.
    In the past two weeks at about 54,000 miles I have put about $4,000 into the truck, and also had all the injectors replaced under warranty. The transmission valve repair came to $2100, and that is after the manifold gaskets failed.

    Just wrote a $44,000 check for a new Ford. It's my fourth Power Stroke, and I still haven't had to replace injectors even at 150,000 miles. I'm pretty down on Chevy right now.
    Duramax is handling the injector problem but Allison is not showing any interest in backing up their transmission. I've got a Top Kick and an International deuce-and-a-half, both with Allisons, and have had no problems, but this Chevy Allison sucks. :mad:
  • ssonjuicessonjuice Member Posts: 1
    go to autozone and have them check for codes in the ebcm. Its probably code co265 If it is check the ground right under the driver door clean the undercoating off and remove the star washer off the ground strap. If that doesnt fix it then its going to need an EBCM. Its about 900 dollars takes 5 minutes to install and have to have a tech 2 to reprogram the tire size after instalation
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    You're in the right place dschro. I have an 02 with 75K+ miles. Just finished its first tune-up. If you like the sensation of lots of power under your right foot and MPG is not an issue, then you'll love the 8.1L. Just make sure it isn't a victim of CSK as mine is; If it doesn't knock when first started after sitting overnight you should be fine. That would be the engine choice if I were replacing my truck today with a Chevy or GMC.

    -David
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    I've been in vehicles with the noise you describe and it's always U-Joints. They seem to be the weakest link in the design, (but the easiest to fix). And the fact that you have a 6" lift makes them even more suspect; The greater the angle, the greater the stress. If you take the cap off a U-Joint and find longitudinal ridges on the inner race, that's what's producing the humming.

    freekydogg: If you can get a hold of a fuel pressure gauge and hook it up to the fitting on the fuel rail, it may help to diagnose the problem; With the key in the 'on' position, you should have 55-60 psi.

    -David
  • jhollarjhollar Member Posts: 2
    Just bought a new 2006 Silverado and you guys are scaring me. Is there anybody reading these posts who hasn't had problems with their Silverado? I did own a Chevy truck many moons ago and it wasn't all that good of a truck. I'm really not that much of a brand whore but I have a long memory. Chevy's are reasonably priced and we got a good deal. Thanks very much. Johnny
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    My last 3 company cars were Silverados. Two were extended cab LS 4x4s with the 4.8. One was a Z71 crew cab 4x4 with the 5.3. All were terrific and didn't give me any problems. Congrats on your purchase. I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
  • bigfurbigfur Member Posts: 649
    Most of us love our trucks. this is just a forum to b*tch and moan about the things that go wrong with them. I love my truck, but sometimes i have problems, and around here there are ALOT of answers. Good luck with your new truck, hope you enjoy it as much as i enjoy mine. :D
  • intel_guyintel_guy Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Silverado, 4.8L, 136k miles, with the original Fuel Filter still installed. It is rusted on and cannot be removed. I tried and so did a local mechanic. Thus the fuel lines have to be replaced in order to replace the fuel filter. I want to replace it because the truck is occasionally running on fewer than 8 cylinders. Are there any aftermarket fuel line manufacturers? I was also thinking of replacing the fuel tank since it has to be taken off anyways...

    thanks, John
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    bigfur's right. The only real problem I've had with my truck is the popcorn noise caused by my bug shield changing the airflow over the front of my truck, which causes a fluttering noise on the passenger side of the windshield. The fix is relatively easy, but if I didn't want to take care of it myself this forum is so full of information that I was able to locate the TSB that my dealer can use to take care of it.
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    John..................Easy fix..........

    Get a mini-tube cutter, Cut off filter, (measure
    fuel line size tho.) Go to local parts house and
    buy a aftermarket fuel filter, neoprene (spl) hose
    and 4 hose clamps.

    Install and drive happy for less than $15 bucks.

    Or you can go the $pendy route and replumb with new
    steel fuel line front to back because I have a feeling
    you live in the frozen north with salt and rust.
    Once ya dig in to it...........It becomes a BUNCH of
    work.............. :cry:
  • rnmill01rnmill01 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 Silverado 2500HD. I love the truck, from the sound of the exhaust to the bigger tires I put on it. The only problem is that the nose is down. I thought about adjusting the torsion bars and getting a leveling kit. Which would be the best option? I heard that my local dealer can adjust the torsion bars but that this could reduce the quality of the ride.
  • ridinhigh90ridinhigh90 Member Posts: 2
    I just got myself a 90 Silverado.. worked fine everything sound but last night the running lights (taillights) dont work anymore when im driving, and on the right side only the signal light and brake light work, ..but nothing else, and on the left its only the revese light...
    anybody able to help me..ive checked fuses and they are all good...
    dont kno whats goin on
  • pderrickpderrick Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 5.3L that sometimes starts. When it doesn't start I need to go to the top of the fuel tank and unplug the wires connecting to the fuel pump and plug them back in. It will start and stay running for a coulple of times after that and do it again. and my connections are still good.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    I assume that your truck did not come with a factory tow package. You should install a tranmsission oil cooler as soon as possible. They are not that expensive and you can buy one from your GM dealer if you wnat the OEM type.

    Remember that just because something is rated to tow 500 lbs, it does not mean it will tow that load effortlessly at high speeds. I always like to buy a truck with at least a 50% reserve ove rhte max load I will be towing. If I need to tow 5000 lbs, I will buy a truck with a factory rating o at least 7500 lbs.

    Does your transmission have a tow mode? If yes, you should always place it in that mode when towing.
  • jhollarjhollar Member Posts: 2
    Thanks guys for calming my nerves. It sure is a great looking truck and with the prices that Chevy has on them right now it looks even better and it made in America to boot. Johnny
This discussion has been closed.