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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • I'm sorry it's taken so long for me to reply. Jeff is right. It's the windshield gasket making the popcorn noise. I also haven't fixed mine yet, for pretty much the same reason Jeff states. I did talk to my dealership about it, but they wanted me to schedule a dropoff so that my truck could be sent out to a windshield repair shop. I was told that if it has anything to do with the windows this is their normal procedure (despite them being aware of the TSB on this specific problem). The service rep also told me that they've handled this same problem this way before. Thing is, I figure I'll be out maybe 30 minutes doing it myself versus probably half the day or more if I have to drop it off then wait for the dealership to get it back. So I'll just do it myself using double sided body molding tape.

    For the Oil Change reset follow Jeff's instructions if you don't have steering wheel controls. If you do have steering wheel controls there's a menu option that displays the oil life % in the odometer area. Once you've brought it up you can just hold the reset button for a few seconds and it will reset to 100%. I believe the button to change the display to the oil life is the bottom left button on the steering wheel (hit repeatedly til Oil Life % shows). The reset button has the arrow symbol that looks like the one on the Enter / Return key of most computer keyboards.
  • I've never seen anything showing the engine block heater as standard with any given engine. My 2004 5.3 definitely doesn't have one. It's more likely a regional thing related to where the truck was originally sold when new.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    jhollar,
    I wish you the best of luck, I too had high hopes when I first bought my new 2001 Silverado ext-cab Z-71 back in Dec 2000.

    As of 1/25/06 I've got 47,300 miles on it.

    Problems so far have been 10 sec of cold start engine ticking (no fix), windshield outside trim rattle (sealed it with doublesided tape), intermediate steering shaft rattles (replaced twice), driveline clunk (yoke replaced), driver's door electric window noises (motor replaced), stuck in 4wd-Hi (4wd module replaced).

    It's sad to say, but GM quality is very questionable these days (even in my Indiana made Silverado). And unless GM starts to invest in better engineering, testing and quality control processes, I doubt I'll ever by another GM product again.

    GM will make back the money from their current price cut program when us owners have to shell out the $$$ for parts and repair costs when the warranty runs out.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    All 1500 series crew cab trucks are made in Canada. I talked to a GM dealer and they said that the best built GM products come from Canada, then from US, and the worst ones from Mexico. what do you think? Avalanches and Suburbans are made in Mexico. Most pickups are made in the USA. :confuse:
  • I noticed that my passenger side rear wheel on my '02 Z71 was at negative camber (bottom sticks out more than top) when compared to the other rear wheel. I took both wheels off and pulled outward on the lug bolts and noticed that there was a degree of play in the passenger side one as opposed to the driver's side one, which there was not. Has anyone else had this problem or know what could possibly be the cause? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • need a little help from anyone that might know about the abs system of my 2000 chevy silverado 4/4 1500. gripe: abs warning light comes on as soon as the front tires turn, thought it might be the hub bearing as that is what fixed it last time. this time bearing feels good and both sensors read 1000 ohm, which is good. have also noticed heavy wear on rear brakes and very little on fronts could it be related? any help would be of huge assistance.
    thanks
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    The GM Oshawah (spl) Ontario Plant(s)have won
    many quality awards from both GM itself and
    JD Power and Company (and a few other ratings
    sites also).
  • I've heard the same thing about the trucks (Canadian built being better). I don't know how true it is, but my Canadian-built Z-71 has had few problems. I don't categorize the windshield noise as a "defect" or "problem" per se, since it only occurred because of the bug deflector I installed.
  • Turn ignition to acc (without starting the truck) step on gas pedal 6 times within 10 secs. I think.
  • Hello all, i have a question about my 2001 chevy silverado, when i drive on the freeway and i do roughly 60-70 mph and then i let off the accelerator and start to coast there is a lound rattling kind of winding down sound coming from under the truck. But then when i step on the gas it stops then i coast and it does it again. also when i am at a stop and i take off right oround 10-20 mph the whole truck jitters then stops like right aroun 2nd gearish does anyone know if these are related to one another. if they arent what can they be. i think the jittering is the u joints, but the rattleing on the freeway sound kind of like exuhast. One more thing, the truck is fully bagged with a 3 link rear end could this cause it?
  • lionslions Posts: 20
    Well I hope you have better luck. My truck 2002 ext cab has a few problems like engine knock,brakes that won't stop you,my truck will pull to the right all the time, lights that burn out every year no reason,my headlight will come on when it wants to,heated mirrors that brake every year I have had it GM fix every year,creaks and groans,driveline clunks do i need to say any more this truck was built in Canada ? Man if it was built in Mexico It would have many more problems, And GM tells me most of these problems are not problem and are NORMAL , This why GM is in Big Trouble, they need to stop sending work down to Mexico for cheap labor, quality is suffering, many Americans are tired of the same old answers they all do that, Watch out GM Toyota new truck is coming , maybe GM will wake up and take care of there customers and not there stock holders pockets . Good Luck on your new truck, my 1988 was like a rock my 2002 is like a lemon.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Lions...............Not all is "rosy" in importland
    either !

    Take a trip over to tundrasolutions.com or titantalk.com
    even ridgelineownersclub.com not to mention the problem
    boards here at Edmunds.

    LOTS of problems over there too!

    If only EVERY vehicle could be perfect...........
  • lionslions Posts: 20
    I totaly agree with you but with one major difference In 1988 when i took my Chevy truck in to the dealer they tried to find a solution to the problem all of my dealer ssy yep we seen that they all do it. Is this fair I paid over 24,000 for a truck that they won't even try to find the problem. I took my wifes honda in with a problem and they bend over backwards to help me even if they don't know they call the factory and get help right then and there. With the new titan and ridgeline these are brand new truck there first years in production but there learning. Am not saying not to buy American cars and truck am saying the competition is winnig the battle, GM has been making quality trucks longer than Nissan,Honda has i expect them to have problem. Hondas, nissian,toyota are bulit here in the USA also. Why are so many of our jobs going to Mexico cheap labor. I have been over all the forms i just hate to see our GM company sink so low, am also a stock holder,They need to make a better product and work to fix the problems not just take a blind eye to the problems and say They all do that. Not all vechicle are perfect but make an honest attempt to find the problem.
  • I had the same problem with mine not too long ago. I would guess it's your Crank Sensor, that's what mine was ne way they have a rep for going out. I replaced mine and it fixed the problem. Should be about 70 bucks at your local autoparts store.

    Hope this helps
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,065
    "GM has been making quality trucks longer than Nissan,Honda has i expect them to have problem. Hondas, nissian,toyota are bulit here in the USA also. Why are so many of our jobs going to Mexico cheap labor."

    Ever heard of the UAW?
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I think you may have a bad connection in a ground wire.

    I had similar issue with a Pontiac - I just about went nuts trying to figure it out - even to the point of buying some wire and running directly from the battery so i could test each light bulb - I finally checked the ground and it had a little bit of rust around the connection. cleaned it off and all my problems were solved.

    If you look at the wires that run to/between your tail light housings you should see a lone green one that runs directly to the frame - make sure it is a good connection.
  • texsuntexsun Posts: 23
    Well, I don't have a Silverado, own a '02 Sierra 1500HD. Specs are in the Meet the Members post. 84,000 miles and still loving it. My brother has an '02 1500HD 'Rado with over 130,000 - no problems either.
  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    I worked my way through school (in a union company) - but since it was a right to work state I was not required to join the union - so I did not. The union went on strike - the plant closed - all 500 jobs were lost (including mine)- the offer from the company was $.35 per hour short of the union demand. $.35 cents - what a bunch of IDIOTS.

    The company still operates - but moved all its manufacturing jobs out of the country. The work rules were also a complete JOKE - you needed to call in an electrician if you wanted to plug in a desk lamp.

    So even though I think unions are a complete waste - I can't blame GM's (or Ford's) problems on the UAW. It was management's responsibility to determine what the company could afford - and say NO - it was managements responsibility to stand up to the union and even take a strike - if they had to. This is a management failure.

    The reason management did not do this is obvious - they would rather keep things going so they can get their bonus - they did not care if in 10 or 15 or 20 years the company would be completely screwed because by then they would be someplace else - and they would have the millions of dollars that they earned MAKING BAD DECISIONS.
  • Hey thanks a lot will have my husband try it, did yours do it on the entire windsheild? Mine seems just to be on the passenger side.

    Thanks again.
  • Has anyone heard about problems with the 4WD transfer case having no oil in it but no leaks??? We took our vehicle in and the extended warranty won't cover this since they are stating there was no oil/lubricant in the transfer case. There are no leaks either so where did the oil go??? Any ideas out there and how to fight this one?? Thanks.
  • I have an 2003 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab. All the power accessories in the passenger front door are not working....power door lock, power window & the power mirror. They will not work from either controls, drivers door controls or the passenger door controls. The keyless entry will lock/unlock the other 3 doors. Any ideas out there??????? It acts like something came unplugged or blew a fuse to that door only.
    Thanks,
    Mark
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Having worked in the past in auto body repair that almost sounds more like a connection in the door itself as opposed to a fuse. Try taking the trim panel off the door and see if all the connectors are connected. May not be the problem but its a start.
  • I have an '05 GMC Sierra 1500 with the same trouble. On my way to work th other day I looked down and I was going 115 MPH. Then when I shut the truck off it read 60. I took it to the dealer and they "reset" it and it lasted about 18 hours and the same trouble re-occured. The sad part is it happened 100 miles out of warranty, and they want to CHARGE me for the repair. Seems the problem is bigger than they are admitting. It is REALLY easy to change though. I have been looking for a replacement on the internet. I found some for $299.00. I'll be darned if I am going to give them the money for it when I can take care of the problem myself.
  • grjgrj Posts: 1
    I have almost the same problem with my 1997 chevy truck.
    DRL works, park lights work but when I turn on the headlights they go off. I've been using DRL and then turning on the park lights to drive at night but I don't have high beams. Have you had any luck in figuring your problem out?

    Thanks
  • Guys/Gals,
    I am getting alot of vibration in the steering colum of my 2000 1500 pickup. It is really harsh when I go across train tracks, or other small bumps. You can actually feel every bump in the steering wheel. Is this the steering colum or the shocks?
    Tim
  • You're lucky to get 54,0000 miles on duramax 6 speed. My first one went at 8,000, second at 18 fourth at 000, third at 30000,
    fourth at 55000, and we never pull more than 20000 lbs with this one ton. GM just keeps putting clutches and slave cylinders in at their own expense. This truck is going down the road soon,but to the junk yard as soon as it is off warranty. Dont grt me wrong just yet,I have logged over 5000,0000 miles on older GM cluthes in 5 tons and never had this problem. Too bad we couldn't pu 1960's clutches in them.
  • My truck is a 2000 Silverado 6.0 gas, EXT Cab, 4x4, 2500 with an auto trans. It has 48,000 miles on it. When I start it up cold it starts instantly. After it's been run a while and I shut it off and let it sit for a couple hours it starts up very slow. It cranks real good for a couple seconds and then starts to fire and it idles very slowly for a couple more seconds. The idle slowly increases until it's idling normally. Sometime it'll quit while it's trying to idle. But, so far it always starts. If I start it shortly after turning it off it starts right up. It's only after it's been warmed up good and let sit for a while. Let it sit overnight and it'll start right up again.
    I've been told it's fuel pressure and others tell me a bad fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator would make it run bad, too, but it runs great.
    It has a new air cleaner, new spark plugs and a new fuel filter. Any ideas? Thanks for any help.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Astro.........I am currently in Philly/NJ so I don't have the web addy handy. Will send it to ya Tuesday when I get home..........

    It may or may NOT work for ya depending on which Delco unit you have. You can give it a shot.............

    If it don't work its off to the dealer and it must be hooked up to the Tech 2 machine at about $100 a pop!
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    WR.......There is a simple check on the FPR to see if its leaking internally and flooding the motor.

    Find the FPR...Pull off the rubber nipple at FPR and check and see if its WET with fuel (after running engine and shutting off). DO NOT attempt on running engine !!!!!
    If its wet with fuel ........Its bad!

    Or check one of the GM truck web sites for proper procedure.
  • Thanks for the info, will probably wait till warmer weather also. It is nice to have some where to find out about the little things that when a woman goes with her truck to the dealership they roll their eyes and just give her lip service and no fix to the problem.

    Do you or any one else have a thunking noise in the rear tires area when you turn the truck or go over some rough areas? I don't know if it is a shock issue or maybe u-joints.

    Thanks again for your help. Will put it to good use.
This discussion has been closed.