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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • jnealjneal Member Posts: 247
    I would venture a guess that you got a bad alternator..especially if you bought it at AutoZone.
  • pete46pete46 Member Posts: 2
    I was thinking the same thing. I bought it at CAP and I was just telling a buddy of mine last week how I never had any trouble with CAP parts. Murphy's law!
    I was thinking I might have hosed the battery driving it back home after the original alternator went south. I have a life time warranty on the new alternator so maybe I'll give that another shot before I replace the battery.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The dealer should do some research before spreading any grease. I don't have the part number handy but there are rubber spacers that are placed between the springs to rid that slapping problem. It is well documented and nothing new for the '00 model.
  • ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Dealer found the heater core to be leaking, will be replacing it and hopefully this cures the smell-never noticed any coolant loss or leaks anywhere.

    Service adviser mentioned the h. core is located on the driver's side of the truck(?) thought they were closer to the passenger side-says it's a bit involved to remove & replace. Good thing for the warranty.
  • l204l204 Member Posts: 6
    Someone did not re-set the milage meter for the oil. Its in the owners manuel. You are good until the 3,000 miles are up. I can send you the instructions for the 2002 but I am not sure its the same. It only goes by the milage. It does not inspect the oil.
  • raizincainraizincain Member Posts: 1
    It started with my speedo telling me lies. Then it stopped altogether. Unfortunately the symptoms were common in my other instrumentation as well, i.e. voltage, temp, oil pressure. I've read alot of similar circumstances in forums. And though they were in fact quite helpful, I guess I am only trying to hold on to my money so I can keep the wheels turning. Is it a flat out prognosis? (cluster defect) :mad:
  • c_lo5c_lo5 Member Posts: 2
    still haven't had any luck finding the problem does anyone have any ideas
  • kash1235kash1235 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '01 chevy silverado and the speedometer, tach, gas gauge, message center, trip odometer, prnd321 lights, and factory stero quit working all at the same time. can anyone help me to figure out what is wrong with my truck. please help!!!!!!!
  • bioedwardsbioedwards Member Posts: 5
    I can feel a small knock or clunking noise in the steering wheel while turning left and even hit the slightest bump. Service personel have said it is not a safety issue and the part that needs replacing cannot be fixed, except for a lube kit. Has anyone else experienced this if so what can I do?
  • mek0123mek0123 Member Posts: 33
    My brother has a 2004 Silverado LT 3500 with the Duramax Diesel that he ordered new with every available option and when he test drove two other Chevy 3500 model trucks prior to ordering his, the mirror control button would allow him to electronically fold in the trailer tow mirrors. He just recently realized after two years of ownership that his truck will not do this. GM nor the dealer has been of any assistance at all, after three calls/visits to each. Any idea why his won't work in this manner? Thanks and we both would appreciate any assistance at all.
  • jlandjland Member Posts: 3
    2000 Silverado, 5.3L, 106,000 mi. Same thing happening here in the past month or so. Coolant leaking on track rod and drips on L. front side of engine. Am looking for any new posts about the root cause. Some stains, like leaks, behind the water pump but dry when inspected. Will have to check right after motor has run for a few miles. Water pump would be the usual suspect. Have used up a gallon of antifreeze topping the system but very little fluid shows in the driveway here. Slow oil leak started about the same time as the coolant leak. Front main seal is OK and oil may be just a coincidence.
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
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  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    It could be a fuel pump... can you hear the "chevy" fuel pump whine when you turn the key on? It could be that until the fuel pump gets warmed up it doesn't want to work right. Usually a non starting issue is only a couple of things... spark but no fuel, or fuel but no spark. It sounds like you have done everything about the spark issue... unless the computer is fouled up or the ill-timed, but if it runs fine once started, I would lean more towards the fuel supply not being there.

    Try this... take off the air cleaner housing and dump a small amount of fuel into the injector assembly just like in the old days of carbed vehicles. See if the truck fires up. It shouldn't take much - you don't want to flood it. I would think (I may be talking out my butt here but...) that if the truck fires right up than it could be the fuel pump.

    I am sure that dumping gas down the fuel injector assembly should work as I one time helped a couple of people stranded in a late 90's model Chevy with a 5.7 that had a fuel pump fail. They were limping along pouring gas down the fuel injector assembly and driving till the truck ran out of gas. Then they would repeat and keep going. I towed them to a shop in town (they still had 30 miles to go!). The 4.3 even in 2000 is not much different than the late 90's 5.7. It's just missing a couple of cylinders.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    I'm a little late replying to this post,but I don't see any replies so here's my 2 cents worth.... It sounds like maybe you have a clogged fuel filter. Change the filter and see what happens.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Member Posts: 1,079
    like previously mentioned, the owners manual will tell you how to fix the change oil light, but the check engine light is not related to the oil change. The dealer will probably charge you an hour's worth of labor to check the code as will and individual shop, unless of course you have a good mechanic that you know and trust. Then he might not charge you for a 10 second check and reset of the computer. I might suggest heading to Autozone or calling the parts houses in your town. I'll bet one of them will have the ability to check the code and generally at no cost.
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