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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
I have 3/4 ton 02 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 crew cab short box.
the other problem is 11/2ago I had to replace the Transmission Control Module"unit"(TCM/TCU). the electronic display would say it was on drive but it would not run on drive. I had to move the lever back and forth to get it to go. once it was replaced it work fine.
has anyone experienced this?
Now I think the problem is re-appearing. The other day I was trying to back up. However the truck would not go in reverse. any suggestion please.
E
Thanks.
1/2 NBS short box 3:73 gears....Max.trailer weight 5200 lbs. 4:10 gears 6300 lbs.
600 lb. tongue weight.
Must have either z-85, zx-3 or z-71 option(s) also. If NOT 5000 lbs. max.
After hitting some bumps in the road and watching one of my hub caps take off down the road ahead of me one day I came up with this solution, it works great.
Put a dab of silicone on each lug nuts external thread before putting the plastic hub cap on, the silicone acts as a glue but still releases when you need to take them back off.
These plastic nuts are very vunerable to overtorquing by an over zealous mechanic which will strip the plastic threads. I have found the silicone to be the best cure to keep them intact and keep my sanity also. LOL
Ray T.
kcram - Pickups Host
I'm doing a tune up on this truck. I'm replacing spark plugs, wires if needed, air filter, gas filter is (done). Am I missing anything?
In 99-02s it is in the fuel line that runs along the frame rail.
It's amazing the dealer can't find anything when GM has a long standing issue with "piston slap". I doubt your knock is anything other than just that. GM has a tendency to tell it's dealers to deny the problem, some do some don't. I have had it since 17k miles on my 2000 with the 5.3 engine. It has gotten no better nor any worse. I have no oil consumption problems to date with 55k miles. I have learned to live with the annoyance and let truck run for 1 minute after start-up till knock is no longer heard (the pistons expand with heat and stop slapping the cylinder walls, noise goes away) I do oil changes every 5k and will continue to follow this practice till its time to buy another truck. Reports from other owners have shown this problem to continue thru 100k miles of operation with no ill effects other than annoyance and disdain for GM's quality issue.
You didn't state how many miles are on your truck but I would not waste the time or money changing plugs/ wires etc. it will make no difference with the "knock" issue. Learn to live with it as many others have or sell/trade the truck for something else to meet your truck needs. Remember these trucks are built with rocks I mean "Like a Rock", it just sucks that they have to sound like their in the motor too! LOL :lemon:
Hey Boomer, put the plow back on that rig of yours we got a foot of snow this morning in Poughkeepsie..................................APRIL FOOL ! :shades:
Planning the camping trip up your way for July and August, might have time for a cold one or two or three....... :P
Ray T.
-Replaced about 15 fuses for my cigarette lighter
-Dash lights go dim/bright, dim/bright (happened twice)
-Interior light will continue to turn on and off for about 15 seconds (happened 3 times)
-Audible warning bell during start up went crazy...rang in quick burst for about 30 seconds
-While driving, truck just shuts off completely, and takes about 30 seconds or so to start back up (luckily I was never going fast during any of these times (happened 3 times...and the last time it smelled like something was burning big time!)
I've taken it to the local dealership twice, and both times they say there is nothing that can be found wrong...visually or on the computer. One technician said he had a truck come in with similiar problems and also was unable to fix problem.
Also, I talked to a few people that I work with: one said he had the same problems and ended up trading it in, and one of his friends had the same truck as well, and his burnt to the ground. Everyone else says good luck!
Is there anyone else that has these problems? If so what did you all do to correct it.
GM has a TSB for a fix.
Paul
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-028A
Date: March, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject:
Engine Knock on Cold Start
Models:
1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models
2002 Cadillac Escalade (2WD)
with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINS V, T, Z, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ4)
This bulletin is being revised to add an additional engine to the models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-028 (Section 06-Engine).
Some of the above vehicles may exhibit an engine knock noise that begins in the first 19,000-24,000 km (12,000-15,000 mi) of use. The knock noise is most often noticed during initial start-up and typically disappears within the first 5-30 seconds (may last longer in extreme cold temperatures). The noise is usually more noticeable on the initial start-up when the temperature is below 10°C (50°F) and may be more pronounced on the first cold start following a long trip.
This noise may be caused by an interaction between carbon that has formed on the piston, the piston motion and the cylinder wall. GM Powertrain Engineering, and an analysis of engines with this condition, has confirmed that the noise is not detrimental to the performance, reliability or durability of the engine.
THIS NOISE DOES NOT HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE LONGEVITY OF ANY OF THE ENGINE COMPONENTS.
Important: At this time, attempts to repair this condition by replacing the engine assembly or pistons are not recommended.
Please share the information found in this bulletin with customers who inquire about this condition. In the event they have additional questions or concerns, please advise your Area Service Manager.
Now you know why you're not getting anywhere......
It figures, don't fix the problem add more engines then rename the problem ! LOL :P
I can say their right about durability, I'm not seeing any smoke or oil consumption associated with the "knock" in 56k miles to date on my Rado.
How's your new truck (won't mention the brand here) holding up compared to the old? Still happy with it?
Did ya see the report on the Silverados having the worst crash test results, "like a rock". Some of us just have blind allegiance! :shades:
Ray T.
One thing I liked about the old truck is the ride after I added the Velvet ride shackles, Roadmaster active suspension and bilstein shocks. Too bad they don't make any of those for the new truck.
When I test drove the '05 rado, it was way smoother than my '00. The sales guy had said that GM had added 6 insulators at various points on the truck to achieve that ride. Too bad the Chevy dealer didn't want to come down off of MSRP due to the $3500 rebate that was being offered at that time. If they did, I probably would have bought a '05 despite its looks. I even tried the GMC dealer where I knew the GSM. Best he could do was $1000 off MSRP less rebates.
Other than the axle wrap issue, the new truck is flawless. I guess when Carlos Ghosn called in those engineers from Japan to address the quality issues at their USA plant they managed to eliminate most of the flaws of the '04 models.
Funny thing about the crash test results of the rado. When I bought mine back in '99, one of the selling points was the collapsing front end to absorb energy in times of a front end crash. Little did I know that they went overboard on the collapsing part...lmao.
If this new one holds up half as well as my '91 Hardbody I'd be happy as the '91 is still on the road with no problems at 150k miles.
Ryan
I understand the '05 rado comes with 3.23 gears as stock. A small step down from the 3.42. The truck was never a torque monster...wondering what GM was thinking with that?
The problem is that under load, it will "POP" and then stay locked in third gear. the 4X4 switch and trailer pull option won't work. The car shifts very hard from park to reverse or park to (now stuck in third) drive. I have to shut off the truck and wait. Eventually i can restart and it will run fine. The check engine light does come on yet my dealer who has looked at it 3 different times can't find a legit problem. They have replace the computer twice and the 4X4 switch too. On the last time he told me that they found a wire rubbed against the frame and motor causing this. Well it just happened again so that was probably BS. Is anyone else experiencing this? Did you find any solutions? Lemon Law?
Just a stab in the dark, but this TSB may help: ( bear in mind it's for an '02')
******************************************************************************************- ******
Electrical - MIL ON/A/T Stuck in 3rd Gear
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-002C
Date: August 21, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) On, Transmission Stuck in Third Gear, Instrument Cluster Inoperative (Replace Ignition Switch)
Models:
1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT
2003 Cadillac ESV
1997-1999 Chevrolet Full-Size Pickup, Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style)
1997-2003 Chevrolet Blazer, Express, S-10
1999-2003 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe (New Style)
1999-2003 Chevrolet Blazer RH Drive (Export)
2002-2003 Chevrolet Avalanche, TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer EXT
1997-1999 GMC Sierra, Suburban, Yukon (Old Style)
1997-2001 GMC Jimmy
1997-2003 GMC Savana, Sonoma
1999-2003 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL (New Style)
2002-2003 GMC Envoy, Envoy XL
1997-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
2002-2003 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4L60-E or 4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and to add additional models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-002B (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ The Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) is ON.
^ The transmission is stuck in third gear.
^ The instrument cluster is inoperative.
Upon investigation, one or all of the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0740, P0753, P0758, P0785, P1860 may be set.
Cause
The most likely cause of this condition may be a loss of power to the transmission on circuit 1020. This loss of power may be caused by an open in the ignition switch. This condition may also be the result of an incorrect installation of an aftermarket electronic device such as a remote starter or alarm system.
Correction
With the ignition switch in the RUN position, test for battery voltage at the appropriate fuse shown.
If battery voltage is present at the fuse, inspect circuit 1020 between the fuse and the transmission for possible opens. If battery voltage is not present at the fuse, replace the ignition switch using the Ignition Switch Replacement procedure in the Steering Wheel and Column sub-section of the applicable Service Manual. Refer to group number 2.188 of the parts catalog for part description and usage.
If the vehicle is equipped with an aftermarket electronic device and the DTCs are being set when the device is being used, verify that the appropriate fuse listed above is being supplied battery voltage during operation. If voltage is not present at this fuse, these DTCs will be set due to lack of power at the solenoids. This condition is most likely to occur with an incorrectly installed remote starting system. If this is the case, refer the customer to the installer of the system for corrections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
******************************************************************************************- ******
Have you had any electrical accessories installed?
You might try a different dealer. If that fails, call Chevy and get a factory rep involved. If you can duplicate the problem in the dealer's presence your in luck.
If not, UHG!
-David
Ryan
It then began to get this issue sometimes when I was heading up a hill and there was no downshift. When this happens I have noticed that although it does not feel like it has downshifted there is a small increase (200) in RPM's and then they drop back down. After this happens the hard shifting starts, again until you shut it off.
I have had it in at the dealer a couple of times, each time they have not been able to duplicate the problem, but have added some "software updates" to make it shift softer. They tell me that there is no way for them to really find out what the problem is unless they take the thing apart.
I was wondering if anyone has found a solution for this.
The fluid has been changed every 25k -30k miles and each time the fluid is not burnt and there is no fragments in the pan. I do however, have to add a little fluid (.25 - .5qt) at least twice between changes.
The past two times that the dealer has looked at it they have performed a "complete flush" supposedly to clean up any gummy valves. But each time they do this and update the software the problem gets more and more prominent.
Thank you for your input.