Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

1…89111314…30

Comments

  • bobbyo1bobbyo1 Member Posts: 4
    Has anyone had experience with these codes.(420,430). The codes mean low efficency in both Catalytic convertors. Is it possible that the convertors both went bad at the same time? Or is it the oxygen sensors after the convertors. I had fuel injector problems that have been replaced recently. Could this have caused the problem? Would it cause damage to the truck if I drive it with these readings. All input would be appreciated.
    Bob
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    See reply #509. You can do it with the torsion bars. However, if you drive a 2wd it won't work as the suspension setup is a little different. Works for 4wd only.
  • plima20916plima20916 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for replying. The engine turns over very strong. It happened today. After driving it for a while I parked it to get some coffee( 10 minutes) and it wouldn't start. After letting it cool of for a while (190 degress) 20 minutes, it fired right up. Is there a fuel relay or something like that. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks again!
  • crdixoncrdixon Member Posts: 2
    hi:

    check your fog lights to see if they have water in them. we just
    purchased a 2000 chev 4x4 ext. and found that BOTH lights
    had water inside.
    obviously, it's a manufacturing defect by GM. Fog lights should
    NOT fill up like swimming pools.
  • crdixoncrdixon Member Posts: 2
    don't buy this line from ANY dealer about this issue.

    this could be a catalytic converter problem, oxygen
    sensor etc..

    you need to contact their service manager and demand
    they go through the truck looking specifically at
    fuel related issues....

    otherwise they will ignore your requests until the 31st day
    of your purchase!!
  • bandit4bandit4 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 2500 HD Chevy Silv Ext cab with 8.1 and Allison Trans. I am experiencing the same problems. It just dies for no apparent reason. It happens anytime anywhere going down the road at highway speed sitting at a red light or stop sign starting out in the middle of an intersection. The other day I had my girlfriend and kids in the truck and pulling a trailer and it died in the middle of making a right hand turn. No power steering and a trailer pushing me into on coming traffic. One piece of advice I can give any one with this same problem. 1. I usually have to bring the truck to a stop on the side of the road. 2. park turn the key off 3. let it sit for about 30 seconds to a minute 4. it will start back up. 5. :cry: If I dont turn the key off and let it sit it will not start and end up cranking the battery down.
    I would like to fix this problem for good I have tried changing fuel filters. Has not helped. The fuel pump is electric and can hearing it running. The fact it dies and seems to reset it self leads me to believe it is computer related sensors or something. If anyone can help me with my problem. PLEASE HELP!!!
  • bandit4bandit4 Member Posts: 2
    I have experinced the same problem with my 2001 2500 HD 8.1 litre. as well. Feels like the drive train slips it des not do it all the time. Just once in a while when accelerating when going really slow or starting from a dead stop. Would appreciate any information on this as well if anyone has any idea what is wrong. Dont no if it is a sensor or torque convertor or transmission. Hope it is not expensive.
  • gmtruckguygmtruckguy Member Posts: 5
    I did what you said, and cleaned out the tube and the mass air flow sensor, and I took off the distributor rotor and cap to look for water, and I took the EGR valve out and cleaned it and apparently one of those 3 was the problem, because it runs like a new one now! Thanks for the help. I really think it was a combo of the EGR valve and cleaning that sensor, because it went from really bad to perfect after an hour of work. Thanks Dave.
  • smoggersmogger Member Posts: 1
    replace the transmission valve body.
  • bigzt88bigzt88 Member Posts: 4
    Hi guys,

    I have an 89' Chevy Silverado. It is my pride and joy. It has a nice V8, and the interior and overall truck itself is in great condition.

    Anyway, my truck is making an odd sound. You know when you first turn on a water hose, and you hear the first few drops sputtering out? That is the sound my truck makes sometimes. I can park my truck, and gas my engine, and hear it. I have several holes on the top of my muffler, but my friends told me that probably wasnt it. I am not to worried, I am just kind of wondering what it is. Its just tiny little sputters. Other than that, the truck drives great, and all is running good.

    Any clues? Thanks.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    If what you're describing is a "gurgling" sound, it's likely you have air trapped in your cooling system, and nothing to worry about. If so, what you're hearing is air passing through the heater core inside the truck. Sorry, I'm clueless about that truck, so I can't provide much help other than to suggest taking off the radiator cap (if it has one) and running it for a while at operating temperature, revving occasionally, to allow the air to escape. Someone else may be able to be more specific.

    -David
  • bigzt88bigzt88 Member Posts: 4
    Ahhhhh.....

    You hit it right on the head with "gurgling". I'm going to ask my uncle about that. That might very well be whats wrong....

    Thanks alot!

    BTW, does ya'lls ignition ever lock up? Its hard for me to turn the key sometimes. It might be because my key is so old.
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    It probably is because your key is old. Same thing happened to me on a '55'. Nothing a good locksmith can't fix.

    -David
  • dave50dave50 Member Posts: 22
    I'm glad I could help. Have a great week.
    Dave
  • bigzt88bigzt88 Member Posts: 4
    David...

    I just discovered that the sound can actually be heard outside the truck as well....By my muffler infact.

    Any ideas?

    I'm sorry for so many questions, but I do not know anything about trucks....
  • wyidahowyidaho Member Posts: 1
    I have nothing hot in the plugin on the truck.i checked all the fuse's and they are ok.I checked the wire's going into the plug and their not hot.I thinkit might be something wrong between the fuse box and the back of the truck,but i don't know where to start looking.
  • shookieshookie Member Posts: 1
    i have the same problem with a 2000 chevy 1500, i have been advised to change the fuel pressure regulator. at first i thought i had a bad starter ,replaced it,fuel pump,replaced it ,fuel filter,replaced it,plugs,replacedthem,after all that it was the regulator , relatively cheap part.
  • silveroletsilverolet Member Posts: 2
    Tell me about it, and G.M. installed it with only a 20,000 mile warranty... it went bad the second time with just under 21,000 miles on it. Labor and cost ... over $1,100.00.
  • silveroletsilverolet Member Posts: 2
    Can someone help me. My 5.3 sounds like a diesel when i first start it everyday. The GM garage said it happens to all of them and there is nothing they can do... HELP
    I love Chevy trucks but they need a recall on this as well as the anti lock break sensors which corroded at a cost of $600.00
  • geo9geo9 Member Posts: 735
    You need to install a 30 amp fuse in the stud #1 in your underhood fuse center.
    That will make your trailer hitch plug power wire feed hot.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The GM garage said it happens to all of them and there is nothing they can do...

    The GM garage is correct. Here's GM's explanation:

    Engine - Knocking on Cold Start Explanation

    File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System

    Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-028A

    Date: March, 2003

    INFORMATION
    Subject:
    Engine Knock on Cold Start

    Models:
    1999-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup and Utility Models
    2002 Cadillac Escalade (2WD)
    with 4.8L, 5.3L or 6.0L Engine (VINS V, T, Z, U - RPOs LR4, LM7, L59, LQ4)

    This bulletin is being revised to add an additional engine to the models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-06-01-028 (Section 06-Engine).

    Some of the above vehicles may exhibit an engine knock noise that begins in the first 19,000-24,000 km (12,000-15,000 mi) of use. The knock noise is most often noticed during initial start-up and typically disappears within the first 5-30 seconds (may last longer in extreme cold temperatures). The noise is usually more noticeable on the initial start-up when the temperature is below 10°C (50°F) and may be more pronounced on the first cold start following a long trip.

    This noise may be caused by an interaction between carbon that has formed on the piston, the piston motion and the cylinder wall. GM Powertrain Engineering, and an analysis of engines with this condition, has confirmed that the noise is not detrimental to the performance, reliability or durability of the engine.

    THIS NOISE DOES NOT HAVE ANY EFFECT ON THE LONGEVITY OF ANY OF THE ENGINE COMPONENTS.
    Important: At this time, attempts to repair this condition by replacing the engine assembly or pistons are not recommended.

    Please share the information found in this bulletin with customers who inquire about this condition. In the event they have additional questions or concerns, please advise your Area Service Manager.
  • h20explorerh20explorer Member Posts: 3
    To date I've had to replace both horns on my truck 3 times. This is getting irritating and expensive. Has anyone else had any similar experiences and possible solutions. The latest replacement was only 16 months old when failure occured.
  • plima20916plima20916 Member Posts: 3
    I'm going to try it out. This thing has been bothering me for a while. It only happens when it is hot. Did you have the same problem? Either way I'm replacing it. I'll let you know what happens. THANK YOU!!
  • loaizaloaiza Member Posts: 1
    Help!!!!!!!
    I have a 2003 chevy silverado the other day my abs light came on so I pull over to the side shut the engine off but I still here something underneith still running its some sort of pump and the only way to shut it off was by pulling a fuse I'm pretty good with tools now do I have to replace the whole thing or is something just stuck that can easily be fixed and how much is that part, thanks loaiza
  • dmileydmiley Member Posts: 1
    HELP!!
    I have a 95 silverado 350. I drove the truck home and it has been running fine. The next morning I went to crank truck and it will not fire. I have changed the ignition module, fuel pump, pickup coil, and had the ignition coil tested and it was good. The truck turns over and over but will not fire. I took a 12volt tester and I am not getting power to the module or the fuel pump. I have tested all of the fuses and everything else tested good. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I am out of ideas as well as alot of others.
  • spj49spj49 Member Posts: 2
    I have a '98 chevy silverado with 185K miles. The problem is that the steering seems loose. It is like the front tires are riding on a ridge and when you turn the wheel slightly either way they are falling off the ridge with a sudden jerk in the direction of the turn. It has been happening for the last 20K miles. Two front-end shops have checked it and said the ball joints, the steering linkage, and the alignment all look good. One indicated the problem is probably the variable steering of the power steering but the Chevy house says that model does not have that as an option. Any ideas? Thanks
  • noobie1noobie1 Member Posts: 326
    A "good" front end shop should be able to figure that one out. The one I take my truck to drives it before, to determine the problem, and after working on it to assure successful repair (what a concept). I'm not familiar with that particular truck, but one thing you didn't mention is wheel bearings. On a truck that used, it wouldn't be surprising. Another possibility, and maybe more likely, is a worn ball and worm gear in the steering box. Let us know how it turns out.

    -David
  • bobinpabobinpa Member Posts: 2
    With the price of gas getting so high, I was wondering if GM makes locking gas caps for my 2005 Silverado?
    I called my local dealer (some kid answered) he told me he didn't know, and they never got back to me.
    Any help would be appreciated..

    bob in pa
  • robert6203robert6203 Member Posts: 2
    I tried to do a transmission fluid flush and i am having trouble getting the pan out, is there an easy way to get it out since the muffler pipe is in the way
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Go here for a fix to your abs failure :sick: , http://www.absfixer.com/ this company rebuilds the abs unit at a fraction of the cost the dealer will charge. Your unit has probably failed if you had to pull the fuse to stop the "running noise".

    Ray T :shades:
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    You don't need to go to GM for a locking gas cap. A reliable auto parts store ie; Auto Zone, Pep Boys, NAPA, can get the type you need for your truck.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • bpickens1bpickens1 Member Posts: 3
    Why do the parking brake shoes on this thing continuously wear out? I would think these shoes would last a life time as long as you release the brake before driving??
    Any ideas from anyone as to what I'm doing wrong here? The bottom of the horse shoe shaped shoe is worn down to the bare shiny metal and the sides look brand new.
  • agreauxagreaux Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 silverado w/ a 4.8 and 115,000 miles. It runs great but won't start some times. The mechanics code reader says there are security system issues. Every once in a while the security light in the dash will come on while the truck is running. Can this system be by-passed? Any ideas appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Andre
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Sounds like your parking brake adjustment is to tight resulting in premature wear of the mini sized brake shoes. See if there is an adjuster to back off on for this set of shoes. I have 58k on my parking brake linings and they are barely worn. The rotors and disc pads were a different story however when all had to be replaced last fall @ 52k. Never saw a set of rotors so delaminated in my life, sub standard supplier is what GM must have used on this item.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • spaz77spaz77 Member Posts: 1
    It's a faulty steering sleeve, I had two replaced on my 04 Silverado and one on my 02 Suburban. THey may need to grease the shaft or replace the sleeve. It will be covered via warranty since it was GM's problem.
  • tmcdonnelltmcdonnell Member Posts: 1
    My 2000 Silverado has started making a high pitch noise from the fuel tank. The truck is running fine. Any ideas what this could be? Thanks.
  • spj49spj49 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the tip on the steering sleeve. I will check into that.
  • agreauxagreaux Member Posts: 2
    Sounds like the fuel pump may be going.
  • robert6203robert6203 Member Posts: 2
    i have a 2000 chevy silverado 4.8L 4x4 and i am having trouble getting it started every time that i try to start it up it wont but it always starts in the second try. i have replaced the fuel fuilter and the pcv valve but it still does the same thing can someone please help me out......
  • lornelorne Member Posts: 1
    I am also having troble with my 2003 Silverado Crew Cab AC cooling the cab when the outside temperatures reach 90+ degrees. The dealer has tried several things and claims it's solved, but when the temperature climbs, the problem still exists.

    Has anyone found the solution?

    Thanks...

    lj
  • tomhz71tomhz71 Member Posts: 2
    The problem has been narrowed down the the control of the air recirc damper controls. The fix requires the local dealer to download software codes from GM TAC that are not available as of yet. The temporary fix is to add foam to the recirc damper door or duct so the door closes correctly.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Are you sure its coming from fuel tank and not the ABS system :confuse:
  • iluvmytruckiluvmytruck Member Posts: 1
    I have this annoying problem with the tail gate on my 2001 Silverado. I will be driving and suddenly I hear a thump and notice my tailgate has dropped down. What is up with that? I even get out and slam it shut and make sure that it is locked but it does it again. :cry:
  • jandersenjandersen Member Posts: 1
    Our roof on our extended cab Chevy truck pops loudly when we are hauling our Eagle Cap Camper. The camper does not touch the roof; I think it has something to do with air pressure on the roof. I got up and checked it and the roof pops in and out like a beer can! Has anyone else had the problem and has anyone talked to G.M. about the problem
  • KCRamKCRam Member Posts: 3,516
    Check to see that the bed hasn't worked itself further apart than the normal clearance. I had this happen on my 96 Ram - required the rear end of the bed to be re-welded and braced to return the bed to the proper opening width.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Member Posts: 588
    I haven't had that problem (for one, no camper). But I have noticed how flimsy the sheetmetal on the roof of my 2004 seems when I was it. I typically use an aluminum stepladder to was the top (blame it on genetics- 5'8" means I can't reach very far without the ladder). I made the mistake of leaning on the top while washing it the first time and was rewarded with the beer-can-effect you're talking about. Fortunately it didn't bend anything permanently- just popped right back as soon as I took my weight off of it. Still doesn't make me too happy. Going through a car wash (touchless or not) and it sounds like a hard thunderstorm! :surprise:

    They should've done the reinforcing that they do on the crew cabs and SUVs (shaped ridges running front to back in the metal). Our 2003 Trailblazer had those and didn't deform when I leaned on it or act like a drum in automatic car washes.
  • amajr316amajr316 Member Posts: 1
    I had the exact thing on my '02 Silverado. I brought it to the dealership, who then discussed the issue with my warranty company. The warranty company would not cover the fuel pump expense until the unit fails. Anyway, I was told the fuel filter was very dirty, and it was suggested that I replace it. I decided to go for it. Within a few weeks (sorry, it really was a few weeks) - the pump stopped making noise. MAGIC? Actually, the dirtly filter would 'starve' the pump slightly. The pump is also somewhat lubricated by the fuel flow, so it causes the whining. :)
  • mkguitarmkguitar Member Posts: 1
    My wife starts up the 2001 C1500 4.8l V8 last week, she says it hesitates ( I am out of town) then starts. SDhe goes to Autozone where the load test says no good.
    She gets a new battery at Sam's Club.
    A week later she is driving from PHX to LA. Stops for fuel. Again it hesitates on cranking, once started all the guages are going from "0" to full, all the dash lights and message center are flashing.
    She stops and checks the cables ( they seem tight) and when restarting all seems fine.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks, Mike
  • yvet375yvet375 Member Posts: 1
    There is a recall on the cables on the tailgate..you may want to check that out.
  • rayt2rayt2 Member Posts: 1,208
    Check the latching mechanism, it may be one of the rods dropped its connection to latching mechanism which will only engage one side of the latch, enough to hold when your not moving but not enough on the road. ;) You also have a spring on each latch, maybe one of those broke. Its got nothing to do with the tailgate cables that had a recall issue, although the cables are taking the beating whenever the tailgate drops suddenly.

    Ray T. :shades:
This discussion has been closed.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles