Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

nippke · March 2006

Throughout the winter I have dealt with my ABS and traction control lights going on and off daily in my 2004 VW AWD Passat. It seems that the lights go on together usually within the first ten minutes the car is on. Then they may go off or stay on sporadically. Within the past month, I have also had the "Brake" light flash with the word "STOP" on the message board. When I put the car in park, it seems to reset itself. The dealer is telling me that it could be the sensors but they don't know what's wrong. I'm thinking I could have spent way less money if I wanted to be driving a car without ABS brakes. Any ideas? We're trying another dealer but if they are also not helpful can I escalate this within VW to get it fixed while still under warranty?

bocatrip · March 2006

I owned a 2001 Passat GLX, purchased new and sold it after reaching 19,000 miles. I had issues with the mirrors retracting and not going back, all windows not operating at all, and a terrible vibration in the transmission while idleing in drive. Although the dealership corrected the electrical problems, I lost my confidence in the car and decided to go Japanese.(Infiniti)

tpo · March 2006

I bought this used car in November 2005. Since then, the engine has shut down three times while idling in traffic. All situations have been when the car is at a slight downhill angle, in slow traffic jam speed for at least 3-5 minutes. The engine shuts off, but the radio and all other functions continue to run. I have to take the key out of the ignition and wait a few seconds in order to restart. I am concerned about this. I know Consumer Reports give Electrical systems a big fat Black dot- I guess this is true. Any ideas what could be causing this? Thanks.

aramis0506 · March 2006

A few monthes ago, i got STOP sign many of times.
However, afterI put break oil, it didnot appear anymore.
So, go check your break fluid and re-fill it. It is just $2. I think it is going to be solved.

aramis0506 · March 2006

Hello, everyone. I would like to ask you guys about warranty for my car. I bought a passat 18.T (2003).
My warranty is going to be finished soon. Would it be better for me to buy a new warranty or not? I am still thinking about it. Please let me know.

redairguitar · March 2006

did you manage to find a repair diagram for the wiper assembly as posted on 08 sep as i need to fit a new front wiper motor
thnks,redairguitar

reidk · March 2006

This topic has been discussed before, so you might try a Search.
Beyond that:
How much does an Extended Warranty Cost?
What is the Deductible?
What does it Actually Cover?
How LONG does it last? (Years / Mileage)
Who is providing the warranty? (What Company stands behind it?)
What is THEIR reputation?
What is YOUR tendency to "buyers remorse?" (Or, Non-buyers remorse?)
Does warranty require that work be done only at a dealer?
Do you have a local dealer whom you trust?

Probably a few other items you could add to the list, but its similar to any other loss control assessment: Probability of Loss + Likely Cost of Loss against Cost of Transferring Risk (ie: The Warranty) mitigated by any reasonable steps you could take to lower Probability and / or Cost (ie: Regular Maintenance; Self-help - you fix it Yourself...)

Good luck in your decision - & please post results so others can learn from your experience....

Reid / SE MI

kkeese · March 2006

I recently bought a 2000 Passat wagon and am looking for a good repair shop here in atlanta...NOT the dealerships. Any ideas???

nippke · March 2006

Many thanks for the tip re: brake fluid and STOP warning. Have you had the ABS and traction control lights go on and off a lot?

fish8 · March 2006

Since my Passat is under warranty I am still going to the dealer, but I know of a place on PIB (Peachtree Industrial Blvd) that caters to german cars. I think they are called german Motor Works (770-622-2626). I have never used them, but plan to for my 40K service since they are cheaper than the dealer.

joshman4 · March 2006

I'm sorry I don't check this forum very often and I did not know how to find any replies. I just want to thank you for the suggestion. It makes perfect sense, the dealer had told me that the vehicle requires no warm up time. So I thought either the vehicle was having problems keeping up with the demand for heat when actually it probably has not warmed up in the first place. They used to tell diesel owners to warm up the vehicle on cold days and now they say just drive it. I will be keeping an eye out on the temp gauge before asking the engine for heat. Thanks alot for the advice.

lveric · March 2006

I have an 06 passat as well. Don't really notice a long cranking time in mornings. But I do have a question for you too. The heater controls in your car can you get adjustment on the heater like from cold to hot? On mine it is only cold or very hot no adjustments.

Or can anyone else let me know if you can control the temp. on your heaters....

lveric · March 2006

I've had my passat for two months now. Now I have several problems with it. One is that the heater has no temp. control its either hot or cold. Want to know if anyone else has this problem.

stonehenge · March 2006

I recently purchased a 2006 Passat 3.6 and it has been running very well albeit with only 1,100 miles on it so far. My problem is that the xenon steerable headlights, which the salesman told me would last longer than the car itself, have burned out. Both of them at different times... the first at 200 miles and now the other one at 1,100 miles. I have also had to have a computer panel replaced that controls the backlighting on the steering wheel controls. Does it sound like there is an electrical system problem here or just bad coincidences? I am concerned that both of the headlights may "burn out" at the same time some night when I am behind the wheel. I am considering contacting a Lemon Law attorney. Any thoughts?

mrjette · April 2006

Lemon laws vary by state, but they generally seem to require the same problem to remain unresolved after 3 attempts to repair. Your problems all should be repaired under warranty. Ask your service advisor to try to find the underlaying cause (maybe a short or a faulty electrical control), and not to just repair the symptom (burnt bulbs).

And document, document, document. Keep all of the work orders and make sure the language you use is the same (and that the service advisor enters it into the computer the same way). You Have 4 yrs/50K to keep your case, if they can't get it right.

jpi2 · April 2006

Just a curious question from a '06 Passat 3.6 owner of 3 months: Why doesn't the car have a third brake light? I thought that was a mandatory law for cars. Did the law expire for '06 cars?
-Just another concern from a concerned VW owner.

robr2 · April 2006

It has to have one. IIRC, it's at the top of the rear window.

waldry · April 2006

My car works well in the first second and third but on having put fourth it is stopped and not always it puts it. That can be?

hviseria · April 2006

Hi,

I have a 94 Volkswagon Passat V6. The engine has suddenly started to get overheated within 10-15 minutes of running. I got it checked from one repair shop who said nothing wrong with the engine, but the cooling fan is not operating. I have however noticed that when the car temp goes above 260 and i stop the car and shutdown the engine, the cooling fan seems to be running for sometime. I have taken the car to another repair shop (since first one said he didnt had equipment to find whats wrong with electric system). This one says something wrong with thermostat.

Please can anyone provide any guidance as to what could be wrong.

Thanks,
Hitesh

stonehenge · April 2006

Thanks for your input. I took the car in so the dealer could change the headlight under warranty. He called the next day with some "bad news". I do not know the correct terminology, but he told me that the nut that is to hold the main pulley assembly in place is missing. Because they do not know the extent of any engine damage that may have occurred, they need to replace the engine. They are going to contact VW for guidance... the dealer would prefer to scrap the car and provide me with a new replacement. I am hoping that this will be the case since it appears to me that this car is a real :lemon: . Undoubtably the last car made on a Friday!

Mr_Shiftright · April 2006

the problem seems to be the shops you are taking the car to. Do you know any repair shops that specialize in VW/Audi?

For a "fast overheat" as you are experiencing, a thermostat isn't a bad 'guess' but it's still a guess. Your cooling system can be pressure tested for coolant or head gasket leaks, the radiator flow-tested for clogging, and the coolant fan operation can be observed while the car is idling and parked. The thermostat can be removed, examined and tested as well.

Don't go to "parts changers", go to a real mechanic.

hviseria · April 2006

Thanks for your advice. Regarding the cooling fan, if i start the car and keep it idling for 10 mins...temperature doesnt increase...and also the fan doesnt rotate.

Mr_Shiftright · April 2006

Well if the car only overheated when you drive it on the highway, then that points to a water circulation issue,(thermostat, clogged radiator, bad head gasket) not an air circulation issue (fan).

Ten minutes isn't a very long test for the fan BTW.

stonehenge · April 2006

I stopped in to see the service advisor today. He told me that what happened is that the bolt holding the pulley to the end of the crankshaft fell off. Not being a mechanic, I wasn't sure exactly what that meant. But he made it sound pretty ominous. He actually suggested that I insist that VW buy the car back rather than allow them to replace the engine. Does anyone agree or disagree with the service advisor? Remember that this car is an '06 Passat 3.6 with only 1,100 miles on it. Thanks for any advice! :sick: BTW, this all started when I took the car in to have a headlight replaced.

brydeewoman · April 2006

hey i just bought a 2000 passat at the end of feb, it had 69,000ish miles on it...just this past week it told me to check oil pressure....i found out that i had no oil left....sooo i just thougth that i needed an oil change...then then next day it would start.....so i replaced the battery that was the orginial....then i got an emission workshop light come on with the check engine....what does this mean? also i keep hearing a fan come on and off when its off???? i think that killed my batter but whats the fan? i know its not a cooling fan

please help me i got a trip in a week im goin to sc from pa n im driving ahhh so i need to fix this like asap

thanks

mrjette · April 2006

I would listen to the advisor. He will be a key part of your negotiations with VWoA. A few questions to help see how well this might go:

1. Did they give you a free loaner car? If so, is it a comparable vehicle or a cheap rental?

2. Do you have a long relationship with this dealer, or is this car a first for you?

3. If only the engine is replced, will this dealer do the work? How long do they estimate it will take?

I once had a "last car on a Friday" vehicle. Once all of the kinks were out, it ended up being fine (but it really frustrated me). I really don't see any reason a new engine would not be an equally good option here. Perhaps someone else can enlighten me on some reasons?

stonehenge · April 2006

Thanks again for your input. In response to your questions; 1)They gave me a free loaner... originally a Jetta TDI, and after discovering the engine/crankshaft issue, they put me into an upscale rental from a rental agency, 2) This is my first purchase from this dealer, indeed my first purchase of a VW, 3)It is my understanding that this dealer would perform any work if the engine is replaced, but I don't know how long it would take, other than they said "awhile".

The service advisor and the service manager told me that they felt the car would "never be the same" if the engine were to be replaced. They felt that other problems would surface during my time of ownership and the end result would be that I would forever be soured on VW. They want to either replace the car or have VW buy it back from me.

I did enjoy my 1,100 mile experience with the Passat and I hope that VW does the right thing here, not necessarily the least expensive.

blaze5 · April 2006

1. IF YOU NEED NEW ROTORS THAT MEANS YOU BROUGHT THE CAR IN TOO LATE AND THE PADS GROOVED THE ROTORS, CAUGHT IN TIME YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO TURN THEM. DONT WAIT UNTIL THE LAST MINUTE TO GET YOUR CAR CHECKED
2. NOW IF YOUR DEALER CHARGED YOU $1000.00 TO REPLACE BRAKE PADS, THEY TOOK YOU FOR A RIDE. FRONT SHOULD COST YOU AROUND 250-300 INC CUTTING THE ROTOR - REARS SHOULD BE A LITTLE BIT CHEAPER. EVEN IF YOU DO PADS AND ROTORS FRONT AND REAR YOU SHOULD ONLY BE PAYING ABOUT $750.00

mvc_jones · April 2006

VW dealers (and many other dealers to boot) will not cut VW Passat rotors. They are manufactured thin and VW dealers (again, along with many other dealers) will not cut rotors due to liability, and also due to thinness not allowing proper thickness once cut/resurfaced.

I did my rears when I had my 2003 1.8t GLS Tip and it cost about $500 for pads/rotors, VWOA split the cost with me at $250, this is close to what an independent shop will charge.

onlysurfer · April 2006

Power operations on one of the rear door on my 2002 VW Passat V6 GLX 4Motion has stopped working. Power window doesn't work, power door doesn't lock/unlock or the inside lights don't turn on when door is opened. The car is outside of warranty now, so, would appreciate suggestions on how to fix this. Thank you.

altair4 · April 2006

You might want to check the wiring running through the rubber accordion cover at the hinge. I've seem to recall at least one thread (somewhere) of symptoms like yours and the owner found the wires were frayed in the accordion.

diondonne · April 2006

Diondonne here,
Pulled the rubber boot at the door post and found black plug disconnected. Reconnected same, all is working normally. Have all functions retuned to normal.
There are 2 plugs into the door post! Took 2 minutes to do.
Good luck with yours

margo1 · April 2006

I have a 3 week old 2006 Automatic 6 speed Passat. Last week we went on interstate 95 and drove a long distance at 70mph for the first time. Each time we slowed to come of the highway the car made a KLUNK sound when shifting down gears around 4 to 3. Please let me know if anyone has similar problem with the new 2006 or even 2005 Passat.
Thanks

margo1 · April 2006

I have a 3 week old 2006 Automatic 6 speed Passat. Last week we went on interstate 95 and drove a long distance at 70mph for the first time. Each time we slowed to come of the highway the car made a KLUNK sound when shifting down gears around 4 to 3. Please let me know if anyone has similar problem with the new 2006 or even 2005 Passat.
Thanks

bbooze · April 2006

Hello everyone. I've had an '06 Passat since November and generally like it a lot. One of the things I do not like, however, is the FM radio reception, which sounds like an old "mono" stero from 30 years ago. Stations seem to move between true "stero" sound quality to "mono" at random. And these are stations that are within miles of where I typically drive.

Has anyone noticed this in the Passat? I've never driven a car that had this bad of a reception problem.

For reference, I have the 2.0T and did not get the sound system upgrade (600watts seemed like a bit too much.) but do have XM satellite radio, which sounds perfectly fine.

bonesy · April 2006

I currently have about 15k miles on my 2005 Passat. It isn't a turbo. About 6k miles ago I got my first check engine light. I brought it to the shop and they said it was some pump leak or something. Problem seemed to go away but then it occurred again and I brought it in again and they said this time that I had some carbon buildup because I had been using inferior gasoline. Problem seemed to be better after that. Then lately I noticed that first thing in the morning, the car starts sluggisly. The check engine light even flashes but doesn't go on. I've noticed that when I gun the engine it seems to solve the sluggishness and the check engine light is not in danger of coming on. After reflection I realized that the check engine light always came on in the morning before I drove to work. I'm convinced that if I simply start my car in the morning and just let it idle, that it will sputter and the light will come on and stay on. I'm also pretty convinced that if I gun the engine until it warms up then the check engine light will not come on. My question is, has anyone else noticed this? And is there a possible sludge problem in non-turbo passats? Mine is a 4 cylinder by the way.

Thanks for reading.

altair4 · April 2006

Just so we understand exactly what you are saying, do you mean the check engine light briefly lights up when you first start the car, along with all of the other warning lights, or do you mean after those lights all go out, then your check engine light comes on? If the former, I believe it's supposed to do that. If the latter, then there's a problem.

And secondly, assuming you are in the United States or Canada, a 4 cylinder 2005 Passat for this market is, in fact turbocharged. The V6 is not turbocharged. Again, assuming your are in the US or Canada, you either have a 6 or a turbocharged 4. If you are outside this market, all bets are off, but I would guess that the VW 4 without a turbo is less susceptible to sludging (as long as the oil is changed along the recommended time/mileage intervals.

bonesy · April 2006

The check engine light comes on later and I am in the US. Are you sure the 4 is turbocharged? I certainly don't get that from the performance.

Thanks

altair4 · April 2006

You wrote:

The check engine light comes on later and I am in the US. Are you sure the 4 is turbocharged? I certainly don't get that from the performance.

Absolutely sure about the turbo. Per Edmunds, three engines were available: turbodiesel, gas turbo and V6.

Regarding your comment on performance, well...I'd guess that has something to do with your check engine light.

The problem should be throwing a code that the tech would be able to pick up on their computer diagnostic check. Maybe you need to see another dealer/indy garage. You're still under warranty, I think, given your mileage and model year.

Sorry that I can't help more. If you can post up the codes, you might be able to get more (and better) advice.

onlysurfer · April 2006

Diondonne, What exactly is rubber boot, the same as the rubber accordion? Thank you.

alman08 · April 2006

gunning an engine at start up will sure kill it, and i meant killing the engine and not the problem that you mentioned.

fish8 · April 2006

Are you sure your not driving a Jetta? The base engine in the prior model was a 2.0 non aspirated engine. The Passat (2005 and prior) came with a 1.8t (t meaning turbo charged). Also, what kind of oil and gas have you been using? Synthetic oil? Premium gas?

Carbon build up with so few miles on the car? I find that hard to swallow.

stonehenge · April 2006

My first VW is a 2006 Passat 3.6 with lux #2 and nav. The car has 1,100 miles on it and has been in service to have both headlights replaced (xenons), a computer board replaced, and the nav system replaced. The car is currently in the service department - actually has been for the past 2 weeks - while VWoA decides what to do with it. The issue, the bolt that holds the harmonic balancer in place fell off. Not knowing how long it was loose and how much internal damage was done since the crankshaft was damaged, they are debating as to whether or not to replace the car, replace the engine, or just replace the crankshaft. The service manager wants to replace the car. I have notified VW customer care of my desire to have the car replaced. Does anyone have any experience in getting VW to agree to replace a new car purchase? Is it reasonable to expect them to replace it given its horrible repair record during the first 1,100 miles and the service manager's recommendation that VW do so? The best driving experience of any car that I have owned, but unfortunately also the worst repair record of any car that I have owned. Do I have a lemon? This kind of nonsense wasn't even expected of U.S. manufactured autos during the 70's and 80's.

sxytaz808 · April 2006

I have a '01 passat and just recently noticed that when i turn the turnsignal lights on it would only blink for like 3-4times and it would turn off? is this an electrical problem?

chancesf · April 2006

Dear kelcpa,

Not knowing alot about your problem, I had the same "noise" in my 2000 Passat. It sounded like my car was a diesel engine. After some searching I found out that the there is a adaptor for the cami-valve. It closes off the valve. MY repair man(VW mecahnic) says that sometimes when the engine runs hot it bursts a hole in this adaptor. I went tot VW dealer and bought this replacment adapator for around $40.00 and my mecahnic installed it and it sounds like a normal car... Hope this helps

tsw · April 2006

chancesf,

Thanks for your information to kelcpa. I will take your write-up to the dealership to see what they have to say. I too had run into the same similar problems like kelcapa. The ironic part is the same TWO problems. I have been to two different VW dealerships and both were not able to find anything wrong with the rumbling noise in engine. I have replaced spark plugs, throttle services, and injector services already with only 40k miles.

Can you please be more detail about your fix-up? Is it a lot of work to install the cami-valve? How much time is required?

I hope that this is the problem. I am getting tired of going back and forth to the dealer.

Your respond is URGENT. I am schedule to bring the vehicle IN tomorrow.

tapp3 · May 2006

I have just 4 days ago purchased a 2002 GLS 1.8 4cl VW Passat. This was my first car purchase on my own.

Now I'm wondering what have I gotten myself into. :confuse: I thought I did my research, but now I'm seeing problems. I have the check engine light problem, and now the plastic under carriage part has fallen down and looks as if it was just barely hanging on to begin with.
What, if anything else should I watch out for, or try to prevent from happening? Please help!

altair4 · May 2006

Read this note and maybe the next ten or after it:

altair4, "Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier" #8052, 6 Apr 2006 7:53 am

Check engine line codes can be pulled at any Autozone. then either post the codes here or google them on the web.

The belly pan - you can either buy the correct attachment hardware or simply use zip-ties to hold it in place. If the pan is broke, I recommend replacing it (otherwise you'll probably wear holes through the wheel liners, since the belly pan holds the front wheel liners in place). If your belly pan is actually broken, you can save some money by ordering the W8 belly pan - for some reason it's actually cheaper than the 1.8T version and will fit.

How many miles on this vehicle? Did you receive any maintenance records with it (check in the owner's manual)? Any indication that synthetic oil was used? Do yo have any warranty on this car?

The 1.8T needs synthetic oil in the correct grade and meeting VW's specification 502.00 at no more than 5,000 miles. You can find a list of the approved oils on VW's website. DON'T TRY TO STRETCH OUT THE OIL CHANGE INTERVAL and DON'T CHEAP OUT AND NOT USE SYNTHETIC! You'll only hurt yourself.

tapp3 · May 2006

It has 47,000, I did a carfax check on it and it shows that it had reg service at a Cert VW Dealership. I'm thinking it still has some of the warranty left at least up to the 50,000. I'm not sure if I've seen what type of oil was used and how would I know just by looking at the records? Is there a specific number or letter? I don't think the belly pan was broken, it just looks as if the front came loose. Thanks for your help, you don't know...
I'm reading the links you sent me right now. Thanks,thanks, thanks, This was my first time! (on a forum)

altair4 · May 2006

If you look under the car from the front, you'll see a stud sticking downward right in the middle (left to right) under the bumper that holds the front of the belly pan. Somewhere along the way, someone probably forgot to reinstall the 10 mm nut that acts as the primary retainer for the front of the pan. Happens all the time, even at VW dealerships.

If you have receipts for the service, the VW part number for synthetic oil is ZVW 352 540S, per this list on vw.com:
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/oilchart.pdf

The oil should be 5w-40 viscosity. You should read this pamphlet:
http://www.vw.com/vwcom/content/objects/pdf/service_maint/engoil_gas.pdf

Stick to synthetic from this list and you'll have sludge warranty protection under VW's warranty extension. You can probably find that on VW's website, too.

You wrote:
This was my first time! (on a forum)

It was good for me, too. :surprise:

Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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