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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    If there is any evidence at all of sludging in your engine, I'd have the oil pan pulled pronto and have the oil pick-up screen cleaned. While the pan is off, if things look grim down there, I'm not quite sure what I'd do, but I seriously doubt that I'd have the dealership do a $100 cleaning. Why? I’ve actually seen that attempted, and all it did was loosen enough crud from the various surfaces so that on the very next drive, the screen was fully clogged again and the engine fails.

    In the end, everything that I've read and experienced with engine sludge indicates that it cannot be removed without engine removal and at least partial disassembly.

    I suppose if I had a good condition car that was diagnosed as having sludge, I'd probably pull the motor, disassemble it down to the block and head, send the two of them out for commercial cleaning, and then reassemble the motor, probably with new valves, lifters, cams, rings and engine bearings.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vinay_svinay_s Member Posts: 4
    Shipo, Thanks!

    It would probably mean spending at least a couple of thousand dollars on this. Right?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I don't know that it would cost quite that much. It won't be cheap either, however, it will certainly cost less than a new engine or a rebuilt one for that matter. In the end I suppose it all depends upon just how sludged the engine is.

    Try pulling the cam cover and taking a picture so you can post it. If your engine is truely sludged, you'll know it immediately.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dkeslerdkesler Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Passat with the 40,000 mile maintenance coming up, my dealer is an hour away, and wants $589.00 (five-hundred eight nine dollars). I am not a do it yourself person when it comes to cars. I am thinking of buying the parts and having my local GM dealer do the install. This would be the plugs, oil,and filters. I haven't checked with them but it would have to be much lower. I love my car, and I want to kept it in top condition. Anyone see a problem?? Thanks
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Jingling noise may be your control arms or tie rod ends going bad, a known weak link in Passats and their over-engineered front suspension. I'm surprised the dealer didn't mention it. Does the noise go away if you touch the brake pedal? Then one of the front pads could be loose.

    Timing belt and associated parts: There are no overt signs that a car will need a new timing belt. It's working fine one minute, and it's broken the next. The primary problem, however, is that the VW engine, like many other manufacturers' current engines, is an interference design. That means if the timing belt snaps, the pistons will make contact with the valves. This is not an inexpensive repair.

    On the sludge issue...I personally wouldn't take the word of any Iffy Lube (or any of their ilk) regarding sludge. Too many of those shops are in the business of upselling other services (many of which aren't needed). Let's talk a little about your manintenance habits to determine the likelihood of your engine sludging.
    1) You should have done 8 oil changes during your ownership if you've been following the 5,000 mile service interval - how many have you actually done?
    2) What oil have you been using - synthetic oil or not? 502.00 compliant or not?
    3) What are your driving conditions? Lots of stop-n-go, long distance cruiser, or a mix?
    4) Do you ever cool down the turbo after a hard drive?

    It seems that the 1.8T doesn't so much sludge the oil as coke it due to the turbo's heat. Particularly apparent when using non-synthetic oil, not paying strict adherence to the 5,000 miles or less oil change interval, and not letting the turbo cool down after hard driving. These hard particles of coked oil collect on the oil pickup screen, and slowly starve the engine of oil. You'll often hear the first signs of it with a rattling noise emanating from the rear of the cylinder head at the cam chain adjuster.
  • joe146joe146 Member Posts: 3
    Hey Pat & Karen, I'm joe with joe146 as my screen name for edmund
    I've had a 1993 VW-Passat VR6 for few years, I've serviced it and
    changed oil often. Recently it has started to smoke and loose power. I
    changed Plugs and noticed one of the plugs is wet with fuel. I packed it for few days for I had to travel and when I came back I checked the oil and it smells like gas, ie gas is liking to the oil tank and it smoke even more. Is this a known problem with Passats or just me? I this almost the end of my Engine? Shall I be looking into another motor or. My car is 165K non turbo VR6.
    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I drove my 1995 VR6 Passat to well over 100,000 miles and never experienced that kind of a problem, that and I have hung around on numerous Passat boards for years and never heard of that kind of a problem. As such, I'm thinking you have a fairly isolated problem.

    Were I in your shoes I'd have the fuel injection system thoroughly checked as it sounds like you are running WAAAAY rich. This could simply be a matter of one or more clogged fuel injectors that are refusing to close between discharge events, or it could be something more serious wrong with the control unit that runs the fuel injection system. Regardless, get that thing to a qualified service center (now is not the time to be looking for an inexpensive mechanic) and have it gone through.

    In the mean time, CHANGE YOUR OIL, PRONTO. Fuel dilution in the magnatude you've described can and will ruin your engine in relatively short order.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • joe146joe146 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Shipo, I did take it to VW dealer, they told me it could be control unit, they changed that with no luck, suggested injector changed all of them, cost me over $2000. Now they are telling me "it could be" gasket and need another $3000 for that cause block might have crack as well.
    Still love my VR6, is it time to look for another motor or shall invest some more on this? Bad thing is they do not know if that is the problem for sure or not.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    I have a pretty fair amount of engine experience and I have NO IDEA how they can draw a line from running rich enough to cause significant fuel dilution to a head gasket and/or a cracked block. Something smells fishy, very fishy.

    Regarding what they've told you and what they've done and charged you for, ummm, it sounds like they are totally incompetent and simply throwing parts at the problem in the hopes that they'll get lucky. Were I in your shoes I'd call around to various VW dealerships and/or Independent shops that specialize in VWs (and other European cars), and ask if they have a technician on staff that is certified on the fuel systems of the 1990s vintage VR6 motors.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • joe146joe146 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for quick useful response, in the mean time I have been busy looking for used motors...kinda hard to find reasonable millage VR6 motor. Kinda hesitant to put more money on my motor...also dono how good I'll get used one. A word of advise?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    This is a tough one...

    Under the heading of, "The devil you know...", your current engine sounds to me like it has a fairly simple problem, that said, your mechanics have proven unable to properly diagnose what's wrong.

    Under the heading of, "The grass is always greener...", you should be able to find a good condition 1995 or older motor (I believe that 1996 was the start of OBD-II for the Passat) with less than 100,000 miles on the clock for resonable money (i.e. less than $2,000). The other side of the coin here is that you have no idea if the used mill has been abused and what new problems might pop up.

    Under the heading of, "A sure bet...", you might also want to consider a rebuilt engine. Here is one source:

    http://www.schimmelperformance.com/mainpages/parts/engines.htm

    I hope some of this helps. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • vinay_svinay_s Member Posts: 4
    altair4, Thanks for the detailed response.

    Here are some answers.

    1.I have done 8 oil changes...religiously around the 5000 mile interval ( give or take 100 miles)
    2.Except for the one occasion when I went to Lube Express, all other changes were at an authorized VW Service center. 3.They always used synthetic oil although I donot know if it was the right specification.
    My driving conditions are a mix of city and highway driving 50:50
    4. I am not much of a hard driver. however, I do cool the engine after long drives ( 2+ hours)

    I have one further question regarding the Timing belt. Is it possible to just have the VW service guys check the timing belt to see if it needs replacing?

    Regards,
    Vinay_S
  • spawnmanspawnman Member Posts: 19
    So the dealer finally figured out the misfiring issues and will be replacing injector #3. My concern now is what is involved in doing this? Will the engine ever be the same once it's been opened and but back together? Or is this an easy fix and and any "mechanic" could do it? I guess I'm asking should I be concerned when I get her back?

    Thanks
    Spawnman
    2.0t 2006 Passat
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Member Posts: 4,116
    Replacing the injector doesn't require opening the motor. It should be fine, all the injector does is squirt the gas in from the fuel rail.
    I believe that even with the Direct Injection, it is still a matter of swapping a component. If your car is an '06, I would think it would be under warranty.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Generally speaking, replacing a fuel injector is about as simple as replacing a spark plug. Don't sweat it. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • spawnmanspawnman Member Posts: 19
    Wow thanks for the responses. I already feel better.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    I don't know if VW still has their maintenance schedule on their website or not. If you were to read it, it would say to have the timing belt checked at the 40, 60, 80 thousand mile services. Then it suggeted a timing belt change at 105K miles. Interestingly, Bentley Publishing, the company that prints the service manuals for VW, has an editorial sugestion to check it every 20K miles, and replace it at 60K.

    So you have to ask yourself in your best Dirty Harry voice, "so...do ya feel lucky? Well, do ya?"
  • krzysskrzyss Member Posts: 849
    well I found it wet way that cleaning drains is not that stupid idea.

    It was pouring on Saturday and car sat outside for 1.5 hour.
    When we got back the driver's floor mat was wet and the side curtain cover was wet too.

    I used a big drinking straw along with air compressor to blow the drains. I got some dirt out and I hope it will work better next time it rains.

    Krzys
  • aprilliaaprillia Member Posts: 1
    Just recently the following warning lights have appeared on my dashboard; ABS/brake light going on, which in turns has the STOP brake fault, consult manual.
    It happened 2 days ago and then stopped but has been coming on and off since then.
    I was wondering if i could get advise on what to do.
    How should i go about this?
    :(
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Get the trouble codes scanned at your local auto parts store, like Autozone or Advance. See what the codes say. You might find that your ABS module is defective - you can get yours rebuilt for cosndierably less than what the dealer will want for a new one. Google "ABS Volkswagen rebuilt" for options. Don't fool around with this - get it addressed soon - you don't want to find that you don't have properly functioning brakes in an emergency.
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    Altair - you're right, swapping out the pollen filter was easy, and the spark plugs were too (if one has the tools, which a buddy did). The air filter, on the other hand - we gave up - couldn't get it out. Not for lack of effort!

    Again, thanks for the sage advice.

    BTW, some asked about taking their 40K service to a local mechanic - I'd say check at www.vw.com under the "My VW" tab and click on "maintenance schedules" - it will tell you all the other things that need to be done at 40K. Not just OLF (for which, as I think you said, you need synth oil that's VW approved - Mobil1 0-40 is what I use - and a VW oil filter) If you have a good mechanic, I would assume they could do all those things fine. But many of the parts are propietary, not standard - e.g., the air filter - you'll probably have to but it online at a VW specialist, like germanautoparts.com; ditto the spark plugs - use OEM plugs. As Altair recommended, I used NGK's.
    Hope this helps!
  • gw1998gw1998 Member Posts: 6
    What is the proper name for the Air-Condition hose on the 2002 Volkswagen Passat V-6? I have a leak. Who has this part? Dealership is asking $249.00. Anywhere less?
  • harubhnharubhn Member Posts: 5
    The turn signal bulb on my wife's 2000 Passat wagon burned out this weekend. I purchased two (2) Sylvania 7528s, which is the part number that was provided at the local auto parts store. These are 12V/5W bulbs. However, when I removed the spent bulb from the taillight housing, I saw that etched into the base was 12V21W. Does this mean it is a 21-watt bulb? Will the car react adversely to having a bulb with a lesser wattage rating installed? I put the 7528 in, and it worked fine, but I don't want to create an electrical issue.

    Comments?
  • bschroeder20bschroeder20 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem. Oddly the problem occurred more a certain temp outside and more when turning or bearing right. I checked everything. I eventually got so frustrated, I over filled the brake fluid to the point were I had to dap the excess out with a paper towel. Guess what the problem went away. I have since traded by 2002 passat for a 07 3.2 EOS. What a great car! good luck.
  • vw27278vw27278 Member Posts: 29
    The emissions light came on the other day and won't go off. In the past, it would go off after a couple of hours of driving. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Low octane gas perhaps? If so, what's the fix, $$$?

    thanks
  • vw27278vw27278 Member Posts: 29
    Does anyone know how hard/easy it is to change a fuel filter on an '03, 1.8T?

    thanks
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    Go to Autozone or Advance Auto and have them read the codes and post them here or Google them. Also, you might want post your model year, mileage and engine.
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    The fuel filter is located under the right rear of the car, just in front of the right rear tire. It is protected by the rear belly pan which is held in place by 4 10 mm nuts (two on each side of the car) and one centrally located screw.

    The filter is about the size of soda pop can. It is held in place by a clamp (can't recall if more than one bolt - don't think so). The fuel lines are held in place by single use clamps - you will definitely need two new fuel line clamps to install the new filter). Use the correct clamps so your fuel line is cut by the clamps.

    The fuel line is pressurized. You will get sprayed by gasoline if you simply disconnect the hose (wasn't a problem for me; my fuel line was leaking just to the rear of the filter). You'll need to do some research on how to cut power (what fuse or relay to pull) to the fuel pump while the engine is running to minimize the pressure. You will need a catch can to dump the gasoline from the filter.

    Hope that helps. Took me about an hour (tools out to tools put away) to complete the job. The car will need to be on ramps or jack stands to complete this job safely.

    I bought the filter (an aluminum one) online at getcoolparts.com for something like $12 or so. Buy more than $50 at getcoolparts.com and you get free shipping. I have ordered from them several times and have had outstanding delivery times (order one morning and the parts were on my doorstep the afternoon of the next day).
  • vw27278vw27278 Member Posts: 29
    Does anyone know if it's possible to change the battery in a key remote control w/o taking it to the dealer? Or, does the dealer need to do it b/c of rolling codes, etc.?

    I have a 2003 Passat GLS.

    thanks
  • passat6passat6 Member Posts: 3
    Can anyone help me find my spark plugs and change them by myself?
  • tsf7tsf7 Member Posts: 31
    Just wanted to report a happy 100k Passat owner here. I've had it since 31k miles, purchased just about two years ago. The only repair I've made is a new CV axle at 91k miles; otherwise, it hasn't had a single mechanical problem!

    I have taken good care of it, religiously maintained it with the good stuff (Mobil 1, the huge Mann oil filters, ect), and it has responded well. I changed the oil on Saturday, and it still doesnt use a drop! Moreover, the oil was remarkably clean and clear -- a sign that the engine is still in great shape. If anything, my gas mileage has improved -- I now average over 32 mpg (80/20 highway/city driving), and love every minute of it with the five-speed!

    I am also very impressed with how well the interior has held up. I have black leather, and it seriously looks only a couple years old -- I drove to lunch with a friend the other day, and he could not believe I was about to turn 100k. No wear marks, fading, or anything going on with the seats, dash, ect. Doors still shut with that nice, heavy thud, and there are no squeaks, rattles, shimmys, or any other annoyances whatsoever.

    I may be lucky, but I just wanted to remind everyone that these cars can last as long as "more reliable" brands, while being a lot more fun to drive. I drove my father-in-law's Camry for a few days last month (similar year and mileage), and it felt nowhere near as solid as the Passat at the same age -- it had a persistent squeak, the 4-cylinder engine sounded raspy (not to mention underpowered) going up a long hill (I climb 4000 feet over an 8000 ft pass going to and from work every day), and it had a noticeable shimmy above 70 mph. I'm glad I didn't give into his attempts to get me into a Toyota! The Passat has also been stellar compared to the '01 Acura TL it replaced (2 transmissions, electrical problems in 57k miles), despite the fact that we thought we were scaling down and buying something "cheaper" when we bought the Passat. :P I hope it lasts another 100k miles -- I have no reason to even think about getting rid of it now!
  • passat6passat6 Member Posts: 3
    I am currently having the same problem. Months ago they were supposedly ordering a part b/c they (VW Dealer Mechanic) said that the light itself was malfunctioning. I am beginning to regret purchasing this car!
  • passat6passat6 Member Posts: 3
    Where can I learn how to change the oil and spark plugs? I just got a message on my 2006 Passat that the left headlight is out. How can I learn to change it myself with reliable parts?
  • flyswbflyswb Member Posts: 1
    You should call a dealership on this. The catalytic converters are covered up to 80k miles. Mine is giving me problems now and wouldn't you know I have 87k miles on the car!
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    My '03 Passat 1.8T is rolling merrily along at 81,000K - but I've never changed the timing belt/ water pump. The question: I have a long trip coming up between now and the 85K service. Do I dare wait until 85K to do the timing belt, or am I pushing my luck?
    Thanks!
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    You're at double the miles I have on my car. So I'm guessing a lot of your miles are highway driven. You might be fine. I don't know what I would do in your case. Have you had any of the inspections done on it? How long will your trip be, and where will you be going?

    In my case, with a lot of urban miles, I'm getting it done at 60K.
  • feilofeilo Member Posts: 128
    I have a '03 1.8T and I did my TB at 90K with mostly highway miles. Suggest you don't go beyond 100K ...
  • brozhnikbrozhnik Member Posts: 172
    altair, that's right - almost all highway. That's why the brakes rotors are still good. (Only had to replace rear pads so far, and that was at 80K. And an 02 sensor.) So I was planning on doign the timing belt at 85K. I could ask somebody to inspect it, though - good idea. But it sounds conceivable that it will be fine until 85.

    The trip will be about 1,000 miles roundtrip - taking I 80 to southern Michigan (to see my brother, not much to do as a tourist!) So i'd get back home at about, oh, 82-83k miles.
  • jpmnovajpmnova Member Posts: 15
    I have an '01 Passat 1.8T and I recently did my timing belt at 92K (mostly all highway driving). From what I understand, it's difficult to know when these things might go out. I also know someone with a 2000 1.8T who didn't do his until 150,000!! It's a tough call, and an expensive job.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I'll put it to you this way - I own a 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T and a 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T. The factory waterpump on the 1.8T has a plastic impeller. I had the timing belt/water pump replaced on the Jetta at 73,000 miles, and on the Passat at 68,000 miles. When the mechanic removed the waterpump on both cars, the plastic impeller was on the verge of disintegrating.

    Both waterpumps were replaced by the improved aftermarket model with a metal impeller (which is how the waterpump should have been designed right from the get go)...

    I would HIGHLY recommend having those items changed ASAP - Consequences from a failed waterpump range from engine overheating (best case scenario) to timing belt failure from a seized (or jammed) waterpump (worst case scenario to the tune of at least a $5,000 engine replacement) - especially since the waterpump is driven by the timing belt...

    HTH
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Member Posts: 690
    I also know someone with a 2000 1.8T who didn't do his until 150,000!! It's a tough call, and an expensive job.

    The 1.8T Passats up to early 2001 have an aluminum waterpump driven by an accessory belt - so a 92K timing belt change is a reasonable interval - as the timing belts for these models are of fairly robust construction.

    The 2001.5 through 2005 Passat 1.8T engines have an internal waterpump with a plastic impeller that is driven directly from the timing belt. Earlier waterpump changes are critical on these engines as the plastic impeller has a tendency to disintegrate after 65,000 miles - causing all kinds of havoc up to timing belt failure, bent valves, and a new engine...
  • travis8balltravis8ball Member Posts: 2
    I just changed my timing belt and other parts in the area. Everything seems to be on all right. I will turn the key and it will crank but will not start. Is my timing so far off that it will not start? Or another problem?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    "Is my timing so far off that it will not start?"

    Pretty good bet. Did you line up the timing marks?

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • travis8balltravis8ball Member Posts: 2
    So I'm guessing i need to line up to top dead center again?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    To be quite honest, I don't actually know as I've not done one of those motors before and I don't have a shop manual for it. Over the years I've seen several different methods of aligning timing marks and so guessing as to which method is used would be pointless. Do you have a manual? If not, call your local dealership and ask the folks in their service department, they should be willing to tell you how to set the engine up prior to putting the belt on, and if they don't, call another one.

    Hope this helps. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • tommy8stommy8s Member Posts: 8
    We have a 2002 Passat with water in the rear footwells. Dealer repaired it at no charge a few years ago. Now transmission is "malfunctioning" no pick up, a "THUNK" noise occasionally. And the service engine/check engine light is on. Car has 24,400 miles, out of warranty and dealer has no clue. By change are some of the electrical components located there?
  • tommy8stommy8s Member Posts: 8
    24,400 miles, out of warranty. no pick up and a "THUNK" and shudder occasionally. Dealer does not know. VW no help. Any suggestions?
  • altair4altair4 Member Posts: 1,469
    The transmission control module is located under one of the front seats, in a well in the floor.
  • iddinettiddinett Member Posts: 2
    I too have a 2001.5 glx passat that has a myriad of problems ranging from sensors going bad with 20k, to a full short that fried my leather seats to a blister at 80k, radio (factory died within 10k), and amp.

    Most recently I noticed a vibration and brought it to a vw certified mechanic. It was the second VW he had seen within a month (the other was a 98) that was having the FUEL LINE vibrate to the point of a loud rattle. On the other car he replaced the charcoal filter, fuel pump, and something else...it lasted all of 2 days before it started. With mine, the dealer suggested the charcoal filter, which he did ($200) and it lasted 1 hours. Don't think its a Passat issue as much as a filter/ethanol issue. Would love to find an answer. The dealer is clueless. No engine light, and the car runs fine otherwise.
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