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Comments
In the end, everything that I've read and experienced with engine sludge indicates that it cannot be removed without engine removal and at least partial disassembly.
I suppose if I had a good condition car that was diagnosed as having sludge, I'd probably pull the motor, disassemble it down to the block and head, send the two of them out for commercial cleaning, and then reassemble the motor, probably with new valves, lifters, cams, rings and engine bearings.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It would probably mean spending at least a couple of thousand dollars on this. Right?
Try pulling the cam cover and taking a picture so you can post it. If your engine is truely sludged, you'll know it immediately.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Timing belt and associated parts: There are no overt signs that a car will need a new timing belt. It's working fine one minute, and it's broken the next. The primary problem, however, is that the VW engine, like many other manufacturers' current engines, is an interference design. That means if the timing belt snaps, the pistons will make contact with the valves. This is not an inexpensive repair.
On the sludge issue...I personally wouldn't take the word of any Iffy Lube (or any of their ilk) regarding sludge. Too many of those shops are in the business of upselling other services (many of which aren't needed). Let's talk a little about your manintenance habits to determine the likelihood of your engine sludging.
1) You should have done 8 oil changes during your ownership if you've been following the 5,000 mile service interval - how many have you actually done?
2) What oil have you been using - synthetic oil or not? 502.00 compliant or not?
3) What are your driving conditions? Lots of stop-n-go, long distance cruiser, or a mix?
4) Do you ever cool down the turbo after a hard drive?
It seems that the 1.8T doesn't so much sludge the oil as coke it due to the turbo's heat. Particularly apparent when using non-synthetic oil, not paying strict adherence to the 5,000 miles or less oil change interval, and not letting the turbo cool down after hard driving. These hard particles of coked oil collect on the oil pickup screen, and slowly starve the engine of oil. You'll often hear the first signs of it with a rattling noise emanating from the rear of the cylinder head at the cam chain adjuster.
I've had a 1993 VW-Passat VR6 for few years, I've serviced it and
changed oil often. Recently it has started to smoke and loose power. I
changed Plugs and noticed one of the plugs is wet with fuel. I packed it for few days for I had to travel and when I came back I checked the oil and it smells like gas, ie gas is liking to the oil tank and it smoke even more. Is this a known problem with Passats or just me? I this almost the end of my Engine? Shall I be looking into another motor or. My car is 165K non turbo VR6.
Thanks
Were I in your shoes I'd have the fuel injection system thoroughly checked as it sounds like you are running WAAAAY rich. This could simply be a matter of one or more clogged fuel injectors that are refusing to close between discharge events, or it could be something more serious wrong with the control unit that runs the fuel injection system. Regardless, get that thing to a qualified service center (now is not the time to be looking for an inexpensive mechanic) and have it gone through.
In the mean time, CHANGE YOUR OIL, PRONTO. Fuel dilution in the magnatude you've described can and will ruin your engine in relatively short order.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Still love my VR6, is it time to look for another motor or shall invest some more on this? Bad thing is they do not know if that is the problem for sure or not.
Regarding what they've told you and what they've done and charged you for, ummm, it sounds like they are totally incompetent and simply throwing parts at the problem in the hopes that they'll get lucky. Were I in your shoes I'd call around to various VW dealerships and/or Independent shops that specialize in VWs (and other European cars), and ask if they have a technician on staff that is certified on the fuel systems of the 1990s vintage VR6 motors.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Under the heading of, "The devil you know...", your current engine sounds to me like it has a fairly simple problem, that said, your mechanics have proven unable to properly diagnose what's wrong.
Under the heading of, "The grass is always greener...", you should be able to find a good condition 1995 or older motor (I believe that 1996 was the start of OBD-II for the Passat) with less than 100,000 miles on the clock for resonable money (i.e. less than $2,000). The other side of the coin here is that you have no idea if the used mill has been abused and what new problems might pop up.
Under the heading of, "A sure bet...", you might also want to consider a rebuilt engine. Here is one source:
http://www.schimmelperformance.com/mainpages/parts/engines.htm
I hope some of this helps. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Here are some answers.
1.I have done 8 oil changes...religiously around the 5000 mile interval ( give or take 100 miles)
2.Except for the one occasion when I went to Lube Express, all other changes were at an authorized VW Service center. 3.They always used synthetic oil although I donot know if it was the right specification.
My driving conditions are a mix of city and highway driving 50:50
4. I am not much of a hard driver. however, I do cool the engine after long drives ( 2+ hours)
I have one further question regarding the Timing belt. Is it possible to just have the VW service guys check the timing belt to see if it needs replacing?
Regards,
Vinay_S
Thanks
Spawnman
2.0t 2006 Passat
I believe that even with the Direct Injection, it is still a matter of swapping a component. If your car is an '06, I would think it would be under warranty.
Best Regards,
Shipo
So you have to ask yourself in your best Dirty Harry voice, "so...do ya feel lucky? Well, do ya?"
It was pouring on Saturday and car sat outside for 1.5 hour.
When we got back the driver's floor mat was wet and the side curtain cover was wet too.
I used a big drinking straw along with air compressor to blow the drains. I got some dirt out and I hope it will work better next time it rains.
Krzys
It happened 2 days ago and then stopped but has been coming on and off since then.
I was wondering if i could get advise on what to do.
How should i go about this?
Again, thanks for the sage advice.
BTW, some asked about taking their 40K service to a local mechanic - I'd say check at www.vw.com under the "My VW" tab and click on "maintenance schedules" - it will tell you all the other things that need to be done at 40K. Not just OLF (for which, as I think you said, you need synth oil that's VW approved - Mobil1 0-40 is what I use - and a VW oil filter) If you have a good mechanic, I would assume they could do all those things fine. But many of the parts are propietary, not standard - e.g., the air filter - you'll probably have to but it online at a VW specialist, like germanautoparts.com; ditto the spark plugs - use OEM plugs. As Altair recommended, I used NGK's.
Hope this helps!
Comments?
thanks
thanks
The filter is about the size of soda pop can. It is held in place by a clamp (can't recall if more than one bolt - don't think so). The fuel lines are held in place by single use clamps - you will definitely need two new fuel line clamps to install the new filter). Use the correct clamps so your fuel line is cut by the clamps.
The fuel line is pressurized. You will get sprayed by gasoline if you simply disconnect the hose (wasn't a problem for me; my fuel line was leaking just to the rear of the filter). You'll need to do some research on how to cut power (what fuse or relay to pull) to the fuel pump while the engine is running to minimize the pressure. You will need a catch can to dump the gasoline from the filter.
Hope that helps. Took me about an hour (tools out to tools put away) to complete the job. The car will need to be on ramps or jack stands to complete this job safely.
I bought the filter (an aluminum one) online at getcoolparts.com for something like $12 or so. Buy more than $50 at getcoolparts.com and you get free shipping. I have ordered from them several times and have had outstanding delivery times (order one morning and the parts were on my doorstep the afternoon of the next day).
I have a 2003 Passat GLS.
thanks
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_replace_keyless_remote_battery_on_Volkswagen_Passat
I have taken good care of it, religiously maintained it with the good stuff (Mobil 1, the huge Mann oil filters, ect), and it has responded well. I changed the oil on Saturday, and it still doesnt use a drop! Moreover, the oil was remarkably clean and clear -- a sign that the engine is still in great shape. If anything, my gas mileage has improved -- I now average over 32 mpg (80/20 highway/city driving), and love every minute of it with the five-speed!
I am also very impressed with how well the interior has held up. I have black leather, and it seriously looks only a couple years old -- I drove to lunch with a friend the other day, and he could not believe I was about to turn 100k. No wear marks, fading, or anything going on with the seats, dash, ect. Doors still shut with that nice, heavy thud, and there are no squeaks, rattles, shimmys, or any other annoyances whatsoever.
I may be lucky, but I just wanted to remind everyone that these cars can last as long as "more reliable" brands, while being a lot more fun to drive. I drove my father-in-law's Camry for a few days last month (similar year and mileage), and it felt nowhere near as solid as the Passat at the same age -- it had a persistent squeak, the 4-cylinder engine sounded raspy (not to mention underpowered) going up a long hill (I climb 4000 feet over an 8000 ft pass going to and from work every day), and it had a noticeable shimmy above 70 mph. I'm glad I didn't give into his attempts to get me into a Toyota! The Passat has also been stellar compared to the '01 Acura TL it replaced (2 transmissions, electrical problems in 57k miles), despite the fact that we thought we were scaling down and buying something "cheaper" when we bought the Passat. :P I hope it lasts another 100k miles -- I have no reason to even think about getting rid of it now!
Thanks!
In my case, with a lot of urban miles, I'm getting it done at 60K.
The trip will be about 1,000 miles roundtrip - taking I 80 to southern Michigan (to see my brother, not much to do as a tourist!) So i'd get back home at about, oh, 82-83k miles.
Both waterpumps were replaced by the improved aftermarket model with a metal impeller (which is how the waterpump should have been designed right from the get go)...
I would HIGHLY recommend having those items changed ASAP - Consequences from a failed waterpump range from engine overheating (best case scenario) to timing belt failure from a seized (or jammed) waterpump (worst case scenario to the tune of at least a $5,000 engine replacement) - especially since the waterpump is driven by the timing belt...
HTH
The 1.8T Passats up to early 2001 have an aluminum waterpump driven by an accessory belt - so a 92K timing belt change is a reasonable interval - as the timing belts for these models are of fairly robust construction.
The 2001.5 through 2005 Passat 1.8T engines have an internal waterpump with a plastic impeller that is driven directly from the timing belt. Earlier waterpump changes are critical on these engines as the plastic impeller has a tendency to disintegrate after 65,000 miles - causing all kinds of havoc up to timing belt failure, bent valves, and a new engine...
Pretty good bet. Did you line up the timing marks?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Hope this helps. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Most recently I noticed a vibration and brought it to a vw certified mechanic. It was the second VW he had seen within a month (the other was a 98) that was having the FUEL LINE vibrate to the point of a loud rattle. On the other car he replaced the charcoal filter, fuel pump, and something else...it lasted all of 2 days before it started. With mine, the dealer suggested the charcoal filter, which he did ($200) and it lasted 1 hours. Don't think its a Passat issue as much as a filter/ethanol issue. Would love to find an answer. The dealer is clueless. No engine light, and the car runs fine otherwise.